rucca
Active Member
no prob, for some reason most of "us" can't explain shit worth a damn
Bored Mechanic - Got any car questions?
- Thread starter rucca
- Start date
LightningMcGreen
Active Member
2001 Dodge Ram...the brake pedal won't fully come back up, lacking maybe an inch or two every time...and easy DIY job?
Also, I got the truck with about 65k miles on it, and its always had chattery valves, but now with 210k (still runnin strong! lol) theyre becoming increasingly loud...a minor adjustment? Or an alarm for a much bigger problem?
Edit: the brake problem didn't occur until after having to replace the booster, and i've bled them 3 times and still no success
Also, I got the truck with about 65k miles on it, and its always had chattery valves, but now with 210k (still runnin strong! lol) theyre becoming increasingly loud...a minor adjustment? Or an alarm for a much bigger problem?
Edit: the brake problem didn't occur until after having to replace the booster, and i've bled them 3 times and still no success
Cool, Thanks. I tried the service connector thing, but it is all corroded as it is an older car (I got it for $600 and its treated me good for a year). I really just needed a professional opinion, and you seem very knowlegdeable.....But yeah the pump is in the tank, so I'm gonna be getting my hands dirty this weekend...
rucca
Active Member
Heh alright, first you'll have to listen or scroll past my similar story. This old man and his wife pull up in their 2000ish Dodge Ram,. neither of which can speak in an audible manner. Anyway, they walk directly into the shop, which is always a bad sign, and start explaining their problem.... From what I can gather, his brakes feel bad and need to be bled. I ask him why and he can give me no good reason except that he really wanted them bled and to just do it... Sure...
So I'm pulling his truck in, and there are basically no brakes, feels like I'm stepping on a rock. I dont know how this guy managed to drive here because he was so frail and out of it from age, but he did, what a champ! So, I set the lift and think to myself... Alright, dude's brakes are hard as a rock, definitely not because they need to be bled out (they feel soft and spongy then). So, I decide to take a small look at it instead of being a dick and just bleeding his brakes for no reason even though he was so adamant about it. Pop the hood, huge hissing noise at the booster... I take a peak at the booster and it looks fairly new. I can hear the air being sucked into it, the booster needs replaced. I pull the old man out and show him the problem. He says "Oh yeah, here" and hands points in the bed of his truck. Huh, another booster. So I'm like "Hey man whats going on here. You show up, want your brakes bled, coincidentally have the proper part to fix it....? What gives?" Well, he had it at the junkyard shop or something and they replaced his booster, and then told him he needed to bleed his brakes I guess to get him out of their hair... Oh well, alright I'm done ramblng...
Alright Lightning, I'm fairly sure you have a bad brake master cylinder. If you pump the pedal up does it feel better? It is fairly hard to accurately diagnose a bad master cylinder, it involves hooking pressure gauges up to it and cra (honestly I've never done it, don't own the tool to do so). I'd check for leaks in the brake system (though this would generally leave you with a good pedal after you bleed the brakes, then it gets worse.) If you had a leak my bet would be it is in one of your rear brake wheel cylinders (if you have drum brakes). Pull the drums and you'll see wetness/brake fluid if they are leaking. Otherwise, a master cylinder is about $30 to $50 and a pretty easy install. Look up master cylinder bench bleeding before the install, it makes the bleeding go much quicker.
As for your valve noise, unfortunately there is no adjustment. It uses hydraulic lifters that automatically adjust. One or more of these is probably collapsed and needs replacement. For a poor mans attempted fix, you could try an engine flush and oil additive like Lucas Oil Stabilizer - but I imagine, at best, it will only quiet it temporarily. Eventually, you may develop a misfire from your valves not opening completely.
Currently I have a Jeep Wrangler Rubicon and a Honda Element... looking for a cheap Miata, but cars seem to be on my back burner lately.
rucca
Active Member
Just another though for you Lightning, though I don't doubt the noise is your valve. A leaking exhaust manifold can sound a lot like valve tick, especially to the untrained ear - also have seen automatic belt tensioners make similar noise but it is also usually accompanied by a horrendous belt squeal.
LightningMcGreen
Active Member
Thanks a bunch rucca, I'll be sure and check into all that you've explained to me! +rep, keep on keepin on with your mad mechanically inclined skills!
ANC
Well-Known Member
lol, I had master cylinder fail on my old car, on the road once, luckily there were no other cars at the traffic lights... 
Maybe you can give me some advice.
I had my little car's top rebuilt about 2000km ago. It runs fine, but every time I drive far it idles rough the next morning or two, like the whole car vibrates, two days later and its fine again. Did it twice now.
Maybe you can give me some advice.
I had my little car's top rebuilt about 2000km ago. It runs fine, but every time I drive far it idles rough the next morning or two, like the whole car vibrates, two days later and its fine again. Did it twice now.
woodsmaneh!
Well-Known Member
I have a 1998 chevy k1500 350 and the lights don't turn on automatically when you start her up? Always use did before any ideas. Thanks
Kodank Moment
Well-Known Member
Your motor has a vagina. lol.
VansStoner1748
Well-Known Member
I have a few problem with my jeep.
Its a 92 cherokee laredo, 4x4, 206K miles. I cant engage my 4L at all but when i engage the 4H it make a horrible grinding noise,Only does it offroad. If im on pavement it doesn't grind. The part-time light comes on but it doesnt feel like the 4WD is on. I cant even shift the little 4wd stick into 4Low. Transfer case?
Also i think it has some electrical problems. Only the drivers door will roll down the power windows, The switchs on the passangers doors do not work,Power locks dont work,A/c / heater/ defroster doesnt blow, Makes a puffing noise when i turn it on then does nothing.
Jeep(Just expect electrical problems) First car and i LOVE it though.
Its a 92 cherokee laredo, 4x4, 206K miles. I cant engage my 4L at all but when i engage the 4H it make a horrible grinding noise,Only does it offroad. If im on pavement it doesn't grind. The part-time light comes on but it doesnt feel like the 4WD is on. I cant even shift the little 4wd stick into 4Low. Transfer case?
Also i think it has some electrical problems. Only the drivers door will roll down the power windows, The switchs on the passangers doors do not work,Power locks dont work,A/c / heater/ defroster doesnt blow, Makes a puffing noise when i turn it on then does nothing.
Jeep(Just expect electrical problems) First car and i LOVE it though.
Hydrotech364
Well-Known Member
Locked up the differential in my 04 Silverado.No oil in her.Never noticed a leak and just bought her in Feb.Tryed to determine the old shim size and put it together and shes too tight.Been Rebuilding Hydrostatics and PTO's for about 25 years but this bitch is kickin my ass.HELP.
Johnny Retro
Well-Known Member
my low tire light keeps comin on and i fill it up..5 days later its on. I took it into the dealership and it says none of the tires have leaks.MY ASS. its been goin on for months now
Hydrotech364
Well-Known Member
Already ordered a new set of gears going with a lil more kick.I used to have a 90 stepside Silverado,broke the teeth off those gears doing wheelies.Maybe I need to take some lead out of my foot.keep it stock, or modify it race style?
i ride HARD.
rucca
Active Member
Monday - lets see how this goes
On the electric... I'd hit a junkyard where you can pull your own parts. Get all the window switches you can because they fail pretty common if you have the old style which I think you do with a 92... Your HVAC problem sounds like you surely need a blower motor - I'd also replace the blower motor resistor as it has likely failed/caused your motor to fail/or is about to fail.
Could be several things, depends a lot on what year this is, is it fuel injected? I'll assume it isn't your motor mounts since it only happens some times. The fact that it only happens in the morning leads me to believe you have a bad coolant temp sensor or possibly failing idle control motor. Just guesses though, not much info there to go offlol, I had master cylinder fail on my old car, on the road once, luckily there were no other cars at the traffic lights...
Maybe you can give me some advice.
I had my little car's top rebuilt about 2000km ago. It runs fine, but every time I drive far it idles rough the next morning or two, like the whole car vibrates, two days later and its fine again. Did it twice now.
I thought these had daytime running lights and I believe you have to be in gear for them to turn on... This one catches a lot of folks who think they do not work when really they do. Some of them have to be in gear. if that is not the problem a common fault is the diode fails, it is located under the dash to the right of the steering column (it should be black with a heat sink on it and two wires to it which I believe are orange and black). Of course make sure fuse is good, i think it is # 17. There is also a relay and a control module for the daytime running lights.
You'll need to replace the air conditioning compressor. The clutch itself is replaceable but I imagine you'll have a much easier time just getting the whole unit. Technically you need to evacuate the refridgerant from the lines before removing the compressor. Also, after you are done you will need to have your system recharged for your a/c to work. Should be like $100 to have them evacuate and charge it - maybe $200 for a compressor.
Well you have quite a list there! I would assume you have transfer case problems, but a misadjusted linkage to the Tcase will cause shifting problems. My suggestion with Jeep T cases is this. Try to get them in gear however you can... grinding, fuck it, slam it in. Try stopped, rolling, engine turned on/turned off. If you cannot get it to engage still, you will need to go under the car and disconnect the linkage to the Tcase. See if you can shift it into gear by hand. If you can, you just need to adjust, if not, you likely have a Tcase issue.
On the electric... I'd hit a junkyard where you can pull your own parts. Get all the window switches you can because they fail pretty common if you have the old style which I think you do with a 92... Your HVAC problem sounds like you surely need a blower motor - I'd also replace the blower motor resistor as it has likely failed/caused your motor to fail/or is about to fail.
My buddy called that the grenader - he went through like 3 of those diffs. My advice is to replace it, he runs an eaton I think with no problems. The LSD engages kinda rough though he thinks... dunno man you been rebuilding diffs since I was born basically - I think I should be asking for your advice! =P
On a jetski? Jeez man I dunno lol... how do you performance mod a jetski? Intake, exhaust, little stuff I always think is fine. When you start doing engine management, forced induction, I just feel like you change it into something that requires an obscene amount of time. It's up to you really. Do you feel like fucking with it or do you just want to drive?keep it stock, or modify it race style?
i ride HARD.
Well I'd take it somewhere else. The dealership techs get paid flat rate. Meaning that if it takes them 1 hour to find a leaking tire and plug it, they get paid .2 hours, the standard amount of time it would take to plug a tire. The technique for finding a leak in a tire is not difficult. I usually fill them up to like 60psi to hopefully make the leak obvious, then just submerge it in water and look for bubbles. I'm going to guess that your leak may not reveal itself on this test though. My advice is to take it to a little shop, tell them you want it fixed. If they cant find a leak, ask them to dismount the tire, clean the corrosion off of the rim, apply bead sealer, and replace the valve stem - that should do it. Especially if you have a GM fake chrome wheel, they always get corrosion in them and leak really slow