Breaker keeps popping

Detroitwill

Well-Known Member
We're talking about a month or so of humidity. Of course i would NEVER recommend extension cords in the grow room permanently, but why do they make cords that long then? If he finds an outlet on a breaker that isnt overloaded, a 200 ft 14 ga extension cord could run a 8" inline no problem. That's maybe 2 amps. That might get him through his problem right now, and he can plan accordingly for next grow.
Just as easy to run a romex line and never have the issue again. If he wanted to leave it alone he prolly wouldn’t have asked.
 

natureboygrower

Well-Known Member
Just as easy to run a romex line and never have the issue again. If he wanted to leave it alone he prolly wouldn’t have asked.
Sure. If he wants to do it permanently that's what I'd do. I'd also dig a trench 18" deep and put the romex in conduit which is code for me. Little bit more than a day project going 200'.
 

Detroitwill

Well-Known Member
Sure. If he wants to do it permanently that's what I'd do. I'd also dig a trench 18" deep and put the romex in conduit which is code for me. Little bit more than a day project going 200'.
Conduit or pvc will do…. And you only need to be 8-10 inches under the surface. And growing cannabis takes work. Sounds like a needed fix to me. Better than risking burning ur house down running cords.
 

natureboygrower

Well-Known Member
Conduit or pvc will do…. And you only need to be 8-10 inches under the surface. And growing cannabis takes work. Sounds like a needed fix to me. Better than risking burning ur house down running cords.
Maybe in detroit it's that shallow.
Yeah, I agree about a needed fix, but that will take him a little time. Especially if he requires an electrician. You're telling him to get into his panel not even knowing if he has any experience with that sort of thing. You tried getting any tradesman to your house lately?
Carpenter's run table saws on cords, air compressors. I'm suggesting a couple of weeks using a rated cord on a safe outlet, one that has minimal draws on the circuit just to get him through.
 

natureboygrower

Well-Known Member
Dude prolly wouldnt even have to run a separate cord for the 8" fan. Just use the power source on the existing 6". It's not much more amperage.

I'm runninh high 60% humidity rn myself, going into late flower. I have 6 little fans in my cab creating hella airflow
 

Detroitwill

Well-Known Member
Agreed I do assume he can do the work. (Bad habit) n yes a rated cord will run his fans. As long as he has more outlets that aren’t on the same circuit. And I was offering a temp fix that will do till he can afford to do more. Tradesmen aren’t cheap.
 

TheRealNG

Active Member
I have just noticed these replies. The breaker I’m connected to is connected to a shed next to mine as that’s how the house and wiring were done. I then dig a trench from one shed to another to give me power linking from that shed. There is nothing running in the initial shed the power source comes from. I think from looking at the thread and Google that the portable air conditioner is a real kick In the nuts. It’s running about 1500 watts vs I can actually fit a window unit in with a little work that will only use about 500-600watts. Based on everything else plugged in I think that may solve the problem. I cannot dig anymore trenches though to acquire more power as I dug the last one before our backyard was redone, it has recently been redone and my grandmother will probably put ME in the dirt if I fk it up. It’s incredible the difference in wattage between portable vs window AC
 

TheRealNG

Active Member
Dude prolly wouldnt even have to run a separate cord for the 8" fan. Just use the power source on the existing 6". It's not much more amperage.

I'm runninh high 60% humidity rn myself, going into late flower. I have 6 little fans in my cab creating hella airflow
Would you reccomend fans below and above the canopy? I lolipopped so I feel the airflow may not be reaching down super low in the tent
 

natureboygrower

Well-Known Member
Would you reccomend fans below and above the canopy? I lolipopped so I feel the airflow may not be reaching down super low in the tent
Definitely. Every corner high and low if you can. I dont have a big space so i use 4" ( i think) personal fans and the square ones that ppl put up in their doorways to move warm air ( woodstove heat). If your rh is running high, this may help. I've been in the 70% and so far so good. Gl
 

Detroitwill

Well-Known Member
You can actually get a very good air flow using both upper and lower fans. I personally prefer to put lower below my exhaust ran blowing toward my uppers and the uppers blowing toward the exhaust fan. No matter how you do it you’ll have a better chance of controlling humidity.
 

TheRealNG

Active Member
UPDATE: so I bought an AC for the window which is running like 1/3 of the wattage as before, I have my dehumidifier running outside of the tent on the vent side, and a Dyson fan running on the opposite to help circulate air. I’ve also put a table fan on the floor in the tent blowing the air around below the plants. I’ve managed to get the humidity down to about 65% on a general basis. It does still skyrocket if the dehumidifier is off for any length of time which is quite the irritation but I’m trying to make sure it’s on 24/7. I guess Im basically just gonna pray there’s enough airflow as I’ve read on other pages that you can get away with 65-75% humidity if you have lots of airflow. Thanks all! Appreciate the steer in the right direction.
 

Skunkbudz

Well-Known Member
Im currently growing in my shed and have electricity running from the shed next to mine to the one im using, I haven’t had any power issues during veg, but I am having a problem now after turning the lights up and switching to flower, the humidity is too high (always around 70-80%) and if I run the dehumidifier too long it obviously gets up to 85-90 degrees f. I cannot run both as it is too many watts. Im looking for maybe some suggestions or tips on how I could possibly get humidity down without sacrificing the good temperature, thanks!
Your temp is ok for led's, the humidity is just slightly high. Is the humidity outside the shed the same? More ventilation....I don't believe you need the dehumidifier at this point in the grow.

Good luck
 

GreenLegend420

Well-Known Member
Forget everything and do like the others said. Cut a hole in the wall and install a window unit (10-15k btu) They’ll pull around 8-12 amps. Then put some black plastic over the window seal it up good to block the heat. Seal off any outside air leaks you have and then You’ll have a cool shed!
 

TheRealNG

Active Member
I agree more air flow. Just less in the shed more through the shed. U need more in and out.
Is that the case if the climate I live in is super humid? I used to leave the door open earlier in the season to promote airflow during the day but it started getting Too humid
 

TheRealNG

Active Member
Forget everything and do like the others said. Cut a hole in the wall and install a window unit (10-15k btu) They’ll pull around 8-12 amps. Then put some black plastic over the window seal it up good to block the heat. Seal off any outside air leaks you have and then You’ll have a cool shed!
I did very recently put a window ac in the window as there was just enough room, even with it on and the dehumidifier the tent is still reading between 65-70% so I’m gonna try to defoliate and add another fan in the tent, even though I’ve got 3 solid fans in there now my tent is pretty crowded
 

Rozgreenburn

Well-Known Member
For your own safety and piece of mind, I'd run 10/3 copper wire in pipe. Now you can add a small distribution box with 2 distinct circuits. As long as your yard is secure, you could fish the 10/3 through pipe conduit or even inside an old garden hose, just burry it 4-6 inches below ground. This will protect from rocks and rodents. You can always pull it up if you change plans later and save the wire. This connects to your main service panel. 2 breakers @ 20Amps, one for the red wire and one for the black wire. The white wire will be the neutral, and bare wire is ground. That will be plenty of power, enough to add a few extra outlets outside of grow for yard work, radios etc. Good luck...
 

TheRealNG

Active Member
For your own safety and piece of mind, I'd run 10/3 copper wire in pipe. Now you can add a small distribution box with 2 distinct circuits. As long as your yard is secure, you could fish the 10/3 through pipe conduit or even inside an old garden hose, just burry it 4-6 inches below ground. This will protect from rocks and rodents. You can always pull it up if you change plans later and save the wire. This connects to your main service panel. 2 breakers @ 20Amps, one for the red wire and one for the black wire. The white wire will be the neutral, and bare wire is ground. That will be plenty of power, enough to add a few extra outlets outside of grow for yard work, radios etc. Good luck...
That sounds like a great idea and I really wish I could do that as I think I’m in much need of more power. But as I explained in a comment above I cannot dig anymore trenches or into my grandmothers new back yard as it was just redone, I’m currently trying to struggle with what I have until we have someone build me a new shed specifically designed for what I need with proper ventilation in the first place.
 

Rozgreenburn

Well-Known Member
That sounds like a great idea and I really wish I could do that as I think I’m in much need of more power. But as I explained in a comment above I cannot dig anymore trenches or into my grandmothers new back yard as it was just redone, I’m currently trying to struggle with what I have until we have someone build me a new shed specifically designed for what I need with proper ventilation in the first place.
Understood, sorry I did not get the no trenches part. No problem, it will cost more but you can use the UF 10/3 with ground. This wire is made to resist the elements. It has a much denser sheath. If you have some trees or similar to hang the wire with. That's all I got Bro, :peace:...
 

Budden

Well-Known Member
UPDATE: so I bought an AC for the window which is running like 1/3 of the wattage as before, I have my dehumidifier running outside of the tent on the vent side, and a Dyson fan running on the opposite to help circulate air. I’ve also put a table fan on the floor in the tent blowing the air around below the plants. I’ve managed to get the humidity down to about 65% on a general basis. It does still skyrocket if the dehumidifier is off for any length of time which is quite the irritation but I’m trying to make sure it’s on 24/7. I guess Im basically just gonna pray there’s enough airflow as I’ve read on other pages that you can get away with 65-75% humidity if you have lots of airflow. Thanks all! Appreciate the steer in the right direction.


Is your shed insulated? Does it have gable vents, most do? Some of your humidity issues could be coming from the heating/cooling cycle of the shed. A simple radiant barrier could eliminate those affects by blocking 97% of the radiant heat from affecting the climate inside the shed. I recently added reflectix in my attic and it made an incredible difference.
 
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