PicklesRus
Well-Known Member
How do I measure voltage droop?
Bridgelux EB Series Build
- Thread starter brahbbyB
- Start date
BuddyColas
Well-Known Member
So I read where it takes the case temp (see page 13 of the EB data PDF) about 5 seconds from a cold start to reach about 30C. This is an approximation as I do not have a thermal couple to test this exactly. Anyway, I count to 5, then take the voltage reading at the output of my Meanwell. Then wait for the voltage to sag and stabilize…typically about 15-20 minutes.
From the “Typical DC flux VS case temp” graph you can get a pretty good idea how much the case temp is heating up. So I don’t want to run over 60C, so the sag in flux from 30C to 60C is about 5%. I actually want to run much cooler than 60C, so I shoot for a max voltage sag of 2%. If I can’t keep it that cool, then I turn down the current or start moving some air across the heat sink.
I think you could do the same thing with a simple LUX meter or PAR meter under a cob. Record the reading 5 seconds in, then wait for it to decline and stabilize. I just use the voltage reading because it is easy. There may be differing opinions, but that’s what I do.
PicklesRus
Well-Known Member
How do you measure voltage output of your meanwell?
PicklesRus
Well-Known Member
Goto www.ledbuilder.org and goto videos and check out growmau5 instruction videos
PicklesRus
Well-Known Member
8x LPC-60-1050
8x BXEB-L1120Z-30E4000-C-A3
18"x4' fluorescent light case
strip and driver are 20$Cdn each
20$Cdn x 8 strips = 160$cdn
20$cdn x 8 drivers = 160$cdn
Old fluorescent Light fixture - free
I will get power switches for each driver and mount them into the metal case.
I'll also get some plastic to enclose the case and make the fixture air cooled by pulling ventilation air thought the light.
Danielson999
Well-Known Member
400w sounds like overkill in a 2'x4' but some would argue that it's not.
BuddyColas
Well-Known Member
I like to add a terminal strip (from Lowes) to each Meanwell so I can measure voltages and current. Picture is measuring output voltage to the LEDs.
PicklesRus
Well-Known Member
It's actually 360. I was going off the recommendation not of watts but of lumens. I see 52,000 lumens are recommended for 2x4 (or 100,000 lm for 4x4 which I believe is equivalent to a 1000w hps.)
8 EB strips at 1050 you get 51,000lm @ 360w = 360$cdn
10 eb strips @ 700 you get 48,000lm @ 310W = 400$cdn
14 Eb strips @ 500 is 50,000lm @ 303w = 560$cdn
6 vero29 gen 7 cobs @ 700 provide 51,000lm @ 292w
5 high bin vero29 gen7 @ 700ma provide around 50000lm @ less than 280w = 475cdn$ - possibly
7 high bin vero29 gen7 @ 1050 provide 48,503lm @ 268w = 400sometning$cdn
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PicklesRus
Well-Known Member
I don't know What setting to put the meter on.
You are measuring total voltage the entire LED string is consuming right?
Is there a good reference that shows how to measure all the different aspects of your LED light circuit? Like a troubleshooting guide or something?
BuddyColas
Well-Known Member
Got it. So my 2 cents worth...so you don't toast yourself or your new meter...is look on YouTube for things like How to use a multimeter. Then practice with batteries and low voltage circuits until you feel confident.
PicklesRus
Well-Known Member
That's a great idea. Thanks BuddyGot it. So my 2 cents worth...so you don't toast yourself or your new meter...is look on YouTube for things like How to use a multimeter. Then practice with batteries and low voltage circuits until you feel confident.
BuddyColas
Well-Known Member
They are close to the same price and performance. As an aside, I have put up 20 of the M-C series Samsungs strips (including 2 garage retrofits and my shop). They are good strips, but I like the EB strips for the add thermal contact (24mm vs 18mm wide), and they really don't need a heatsink if run at test current. Also, I like that the EBs are an actual board and not a strip...easier to mount. FWIW.
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BuddyColas
Well-Known Member
Very clean build. How hard are you going to run them?
Abiqua
Well-Known Member
Thank you....these are all 560s and they will be powered at 500ma..
...I'm too much of an efficiency nerd and the 6061 is completely overkill but it was all free....Also have some cobs..so not a true eb build all the way....will have 3 channels coming on at delayed intervals....really want to address my vpd...
BuddyColas
Well-Known Member
OK, class is in session, please explain, "will have 3 channels coming on at delayed intervals....really want to address my vpd..."Thank you....these are all 560s and they will be powered at 500ma..
Also have some cobs..so not a true eb build all the way....will have 3 channels coming on at delayed intervals....really want to address my vpd...
Also, I can't imagine how little voltage droop you will have with all the heatsinking...temps are probably well under 40C.
Abiqua
Well-Known Member
i hope so on the voltage droop....in all reality i could see a 30c TC very easily...
as far as driver offset...just the old fashioned way currently..3 drivers/3 timers...then the sequence will just be: 1x vero 29 4k....on 1hour...then 2x 3070 3500k will kick on for another hour...finally all vero eb,s mostly 3k and a couple 3500k too....then the reverse at the end of the day....
My hope is to ramp up intensity in the plants against an actual vapor pressure curve....this alone wont help me try to meet my goals but a new dehuy is forthcoming....
i am not all dialed in totally on this working but @wietefras really drove it home for me in my ignorance
on the driver offset...if anyone has suggestions for a different direction..i consider this only temporary to collect data....and i have most of the gear to build this too:
https://www.rollitup.org/t/multiple-driver-soft-on-set.866330/
Hey fellas loving the thread with these strips! Chasing maximum efficiency, coverage and spectrum ultimately with the 4ft Samsung H series C strips (3k and 4k), uvb bulbs, far reds (unsure on ratios for uvb, reds etc?)
So if someone wanted 25x 4ft H series C strips what would be the most efficient way to power them? Using a spacing of 30mm between strips the dimensions would be 1120x1200. If someone could help me out with the maths on that it would be greatly appreciated
Any of these ELG series drivers? 220v input BTW. Would that mean 12 strips on each driver?
Edit; also has anyone thought of water cooling these strips? Specifically the Samsung's. Would the heat transfer from strip > paste > aluminum? Could you "peel" off any backing inhibiting cooling to the actual back of the cob? Or even have coolant directly in contact with your modified strip?
What's better; 3k strips, 3.5k strips, 4k strips? Is more 4k better? It seems to have more usable spectrum.. Especially if using reds surrounding these strips?
So if someone wanted 25x 4ft H series C strips what would be the most efficient way to power them? Using a spacing of 30mm between strips the dimensions would be 1120x1200. If someone could help me out with the maths on that it would be greatly appreciated
Any of these ELG series drivers? 220v input BTW. Would that mean 12 strips on each driver?
Edit; also has anyone thought of water cooling these strips? Specifically the Samsung's. Would the heat transfer from strip > paste > aluminum? Could you "peel" off any backing inhibiting cooling to the actual back of the cob? Or even have coolant directly in contact with your modified strip?
What's better; 3k strips, 3.5k strips, 4k strips? Is more 4k better? It seems to have more usable spectrum.. Especially if using reds surrounding these strips?
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