Bridgelux EB Series Build

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Woah!! That sounds like a great deal. Did you have a promo code? Was it a sale? Do u happen to have any idea if they are stocking the 4ft samsungs anytime soon?

Thanks
Yeah, it was a cashback action with promocode: fifty but has allready ended.
Arrow often makes special offers, sales and so on. You need to sign up at Arrow and subscribe to get the newsletter, then you will be notified of any of their offers.

A quick search using SI-B8V521b20WW for the 3000°k/4footers says 6 weeks.

https://www.arrow.com/de-de/products/si-b8v521b20ww/samsung-electronics

Ach, and use allways the official part number for the specific item you need, arrow's search engine is a PITA.
 
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Serva

Well-Known Member
Yes, checked and dbl checked. Not sure what's up with that side.
Check again ;) that is definitly NOT a screw hole in the picture you showed us! This hole is for mounting the lenses. You can see which one is a screw hole by checking the back: screw holes are brighter trapezial spots, where it is clear, that there is no conduction.
 

CanadianDank

Well-Known Member
Check again ;) that is definitly NOT a screw hole in the picture you showed us! This hole is for mounting the lenses. You can see which one is a screw hole by checking the back: screw holes are brighter trapezial spots, where it is clear, that there is no conduction.
It never hurts to triple check but I am pretty sure you're thinking of a picture another member posted as an example of what is not a screw hole.
 

Serva

Well-Known Member
Looks like the circuit skips every 2 on that side. Might be shorting on the aluminum?
Right, wasn‘t you posting the picture, but you having the troubles :) I just remembered another thread with equal problem, where we realizied, that there are mounting holes, and lens holding holes. The one in the picture is for lenses, the mounting ones, have bigger brighter trapezial spots.

Maybe I also just did a notice for the posterity, and it doesn‘t needed your attation at all :D

But from what I can see from your panel photos, you used more screws, that there are mounting holes (forgive me if I am wrong here), so my guessing would be, you have used lens holes instead.

Edit: https://www.rollitup.org/t/bad-eb-strip.942178/page-2#post-13606246
 
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Warpedpassage

Well-Known Member
Yeah, it was a cashback action with promocode: fifty but has allready ended.
Arrow often makes special offers, sales and so on. You need to sign up at Arrow and subscribe to get the newsletter, then you will be notified of any of their offers.

A quick search using SI-B8V521b20WW for the 3000°k/4footers says 6 weeks.

https://www.arrow.com/de-de/products/si-b8v521b20ww/samsung-electronics

Ach, and use allways the official part number for the specific item you need, arrow's search engine is a PITA.

Thank you good sir.
You have to be one of the most helpful people on this site. Ive often seen you taking out the time to give pretty thorough and thoughtfull responses. And taking the time out of your day to help total strangers. Its cats like you that make these forums still worthwhile. So my hats off to you.
 

CanadianDank

Well-Known Member
Right, wasn‘t you posting the picture, but you having the troubles :) I just remembered another thread with equal problem, where we realizied, that there are mounting holes, and lens holding holes. The one in the picture is for lenses, the mounting ones, have bigger brighter trapezial spots.

Maybe I also just did a notice for the posterity, and it doesn‘t needed your attation at all :D

But from what I can see from your panel photos, you used more screws, that there are mounting holes (forgive me if I am wrong here), so my guessing would be, you have used lens holes instead.

Edit: https://www.rollitup.org/t/bad-eb-strip.942178/page-2#post-13606246
Okay thanks, I'll be sure to have a closer look tonight.
 

InTheValley

Well-Known Member
Thank you good sir.
You have to be one of the most helpful people on this site. Ive often seen you taking out the time to give pretty thorough and thoughtfull responses. And taking the time out of your day to help total strangers. Its cats like you that make these forums still worthwhile. So my hats off to you.
Yeah, I agree. He told me recently my strip lights were shit, in not so many words, but by golly, I think he was right, HUH.
 

Seshwaan

Well-Known Member
• I would go parallel and stay with 24v just for safety reasons.

• You could take a HLG-60H-24A(2,5A), which is dimmable with a small screwdriver between 30 and 60w's. (36$) This way the strips would get between 250 and 500mA. HLG-40H-24A costs exact the same and it's probably worth to have a few extra watts.
You could simply drill a Ø5mm hole in the PC case exact above the adjustment poti's on the drivers or you mount the driver on the backside. This would keep the driver-heat* out of the case and you have easy access to the built-in "potentiometers" for vf and current regulation.
*driver eff. is 91%, so 9% of the total wall watts are driver heat.

• For internal wiring between the strips I would recommend to use awg18 or awg20 solid core wire, because it's easier to plug it into the strip connectors. You need two 4" wires(black & red) to connect one strip parallel to another and additional 2 wires to go to the next strip, repeat this until all strips are connected. The first and the last strips will be connected to the dc output from the driver.

• To connect the driver to a wall plug use three 2-pole Wago clamps(1 for each N, L & G), they are relatively cheap and available at ebay/amazon. But there are lots of other options, for instance water proof earth connectors but most of them needs a soldered connection.

You want wiring examples..?
https://www.rollitup.org/t/bridgelux-eb-series-build.928676/page-61#post-13864376

Hey man, I am just about to order everything so was wondering if you would be so kind as to check it over for me?

Few quick questions first. I think I am going to go with the HLG-60H-24A(2,5A) which is 60W and 2.5A. Am I right in thinking that-

5x strips at 350mA means total of 1.75A, would I need use the screw driver to dim the driver to only output 1.75A or else I would be running the strips higher than my desired 350mA each?

Total wattage of the strips is 38.5 watts, does it matter that the driver is 60W? Does that extra wattage capability just sit unused( aware that is probably the wrong term)

The Vf of this driver is 24V however the strips are 22.1V each, would I need to dim the driver to only output 22.1? How is that done? I think I may be misunderstanding exactly WHAT is dimmed using the screw driver.

Now in terms of parts...

I can;t seem to find those wires you were talking about, afraid im looking at the wrong thing so don;t suppose you could link me to some please? Also can you help me work out whaat kind of wall plug I would need to buy that would be compatible with the driver?


Shopping list so far-

Driver -

https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Mean-Well/HLG-60H-24A/?qs=DNaZHaGatO3mmI1zvzp6qA==

Wago connectors, are these what you meant? -

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wago-WAG51201124-10-222412-Conductor-Terminals/dp/B00APX7H30/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1509455029&sr=8-15&keywords=Wago+connector
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Hehe..
At least they will grow some meds for your personal use and this is the most important thing. Okay, it maybe heats up the tent but with a bit more airflow it's nothing you can't handle.
 

InTheValley

Well-Known Member
Hehe..
At least they will grow some meds for your personal use and this is the most important thing. Okay, it maybe heats up the tent but with a bit more airflow it's nothing you can't handle.
Right on Randomblame, I might just be really impatient i guess. I raised the light up some, reduced heat, and turned the light down to 95 watts. They seem to enjoy it now. Plus, I stressed the BS outta them so much in so little time. Topped, translated, new light, hot soil, then 2 from soil to coco, smh, they were screaming for 2 weeks,lol.. temp 80F, RH 65% Im just used to fast and bushy growth.

at the end of the day Random, Have to let them run for a while and see what happens, after all, its about the flower, they might rock it,..

I do have a contingency plan, using mono diodes and lenses. Going to build that as another side project, just have to figure out the driver and such. It was my original plan from the start.

again Random, thanks for the help also, have a great and productive week.
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Hey man, I am just about to order everything so was wondering if you would be so kind as to check it over for me?

Few quick questions first. I think I am going to go with the HLG-60H-24A(2,5A) which is 60W and 2.5A. Am I right in thinking that-

5x strips at 350mA means total of 1.75A, would I need use the screw driver to dim the driver to only output 1.75A or else I would be running the strips higher than my desired 350mA each?

Total wattage of the strips is 38.5 watts, does it matter that the driver is 60W? Does that extra wattage capability just sit unused( aware that is probably the wrong term)

The Vf of this driver is 24V however the strips are 22.1V each, would I need to dim the driver to only output 22.1? How is that done? I think I may be misunderstanding exactly WHAT is dimmed using the screw driver.

Now in terms of parts...

I can;t seem to find those wires you were talking about, afraid im looking at the wrong thing so don;t suppose you could link me to some please? Also can you help me work out whaat kind of wall plug I would need to buy that would be compatible with the driver?


Shopping list so far-

Driver -

https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Mean-Well/HLG-60H-24A/?qs=DNaZHaGatO3mmI1zvzp6qA==

Wago connectors, are these what you meant? -

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wago-WAG51201124-10-222412-Conductor-Terminals/dp/B00APX7H30/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1509455029&sr=8-15&keywords=Wago+connector

Hey seshwaan,
I will try my best.
1. Yes, 24v version is max 2,5A

2. No, if you use 5 strips in parallel each strip would get around 500mA. Current is evenly divided thru the number of strips(2,5Av5=0,5A). There is a current poti, which can be used to dimm the strips between 250 and 500mA(50-100%).
At 500mA each strip would probably need 22,5v, so 11,25w per strip, 56,25w net./62,5w total.

3. Look at 2.) The drivers potential will be fully used, around 62,5w at the wall.

4.The voltage poti can be used to limit the max. voltage. If you reduce the vf below 22,5v the current gets also reduced. If you for example reduce to 22,1v, each strip would only get the 350mA in your example.
But I would recommend to set it at least to 23-24vf, because if you switch the strips on at 25° they need up to 23v untill the temps stabilizise.
Dimm the strips only via current poti and let the strips take what they need. The vf poti can stay fully turned open so the stripes can take what they need. In plain language, the vf adapts automatically, as long as you do not regulate it below the min. vf a strip would need(depending on the current, of course).

You can of course use stranded wires, AWG20 for example would work. Twist the wire ends and tin them with a soldering iron or use crimp wire ends. But make sure the diameter is still below AWG18 to fit inside the connectors.

You need only wago's if you have no soldering iron. To connect the drivers AC side you need only a suitable wallplug. For the DC side the + wire would go to the +connector of the first strip. If it fits into the connector there is no need for a Wago. Same goes to the -wire, if it fits, good, if not use a piece of the AWG20 and a Wago or solder it.
Because all MeanWell HLG-xxx-xx A drivers tends to have a bit more juice you can expect ~30w min.(lowest current) - 70w max.(max.current).
 

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So I know you weren't asking me, but if you did want to run max of 1 amp. That would be 22.7 watts a strip for 227 watts for 10. The HLG‑240H‑C1050 would do that. That is not the only solution, but one that would work.
Thanks for the advice!

I actually fired an email off to digikey and they recommended this Delta (LNE-24V185WDA) unit to run 10 2' EB strips. I guess I will have to spend some time researching afterall :( :)

Constant Current, Voltage
Topology AC DC Converter
Number of Outputs 1
Voltage - Input (Min) 90VAC
Voltage - Input (Max) 305VAC
Voltage - Output 12 ~ 24 V
Current - Output (Max) 7.8A
Power (Watts) 185W
Voltage - Isolation 3.85kV
Dimming Analog, PWM
 
I wonder if the drivers from the Mars II lights would be of any use for powering these EB strips? It's probably a fire hazard even if the output is compatible, but it would be a shame to just scrap the old rig since the drivers all seem fine, it's just the diodes and soldering that seems to fail on mine...

I also have 6 spare LED drivers just sitting here, but I guess they're just garbage. They say NLGI-100XC-063A, which I assume means 100w and 630ma, so would they be good for anything?
 

RandomHero8913

Well-Known Member
I wonder if the drivers from the Mars II lights would be of any use for powering these EB strips? It's probably a fire hazard even if the output is compatible, but it would be a shame to just scrap the old rig since the drivers all seem fine, it's just the diodes and soldering that seems to fail on mine...

I also have 6 spare LED drivers just sitting here, but I guess they're just garbage. They say NLGI-100XC-063A, which I assume means 100w and 630ma, so would they be good for anything?
I reused my drivers from the Rolandro light i mistakingly purchased. As long at the current of the driver isn't higher than the max rating you'll be fine. I used one for some EB strips and others for COBS and another for Samsung strips they all worked just fine.
 

ledpower

Member
Like i said. I didn‘t even have looked for it yet :D

Thanks for the info! Now my wife gets all my old stuff, and I can order some new strips! Yeah :bigjoint:
Bridgelux has them available now, but no distributors have ordered from them so far. The minimum order quantity is 400 which is definitely out of my price range and needs. Would be nice if digikey or arrow ordered some up...
 
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