Kenny Grows
Active Member
While reading through this thread i've seen a few people have there frames and lights drawing in some program. Anyone know the program? I'd like to sketch out this idea for my new flower light.
Bridgelux EB Series Build
- Thread starter brahbbyB
- Start date
muleface
Well-Known Member
Yellow Leaves...
So I have 18 plants, all identical, 6 under 3500k bridelux strips, 6 under a CMH and 6 under a mix of 3000k and 4000k vero 29s. The 6 under the bridgelux strips have greenish yellow leaves. The ones under the other lights both have the same normal green leaves. I find this very odd. The bridgelux strip light plants also don't grow as well as the others, but oddly fruited better. I am growing tomatoes btw, any thoughts on this?
So I have 18 plants, all identical, 6 under 3500k bridelux strips, 6 under a CMH and 6 under a mix of 3000k and 4000k vero 29s. The 6 under the bridgelux strips have greenish yellow leaves. The ones under the other lights both have the same normal green leaves. I find this very odd. The bridgelux strip light plants also don't grow as well as the others, but oddly fruited better. I am growing tomatoes btw, any thoughts on this?
Kenny Grows
Active Member
thanx but again :
1)why do not adopt samsung instead of bridgelux habing a better efficiency?"
2)what kind of ratio CCT for a full cycle?
3)and finally, I promise: why do not adopt a cheaper 12V 120W led driver like that https://www.amazon.com/SANPU-Transf...8&qid=1515719771&sr=8-1&keywords=12v+40w+acdc instead of MW, or something like a adjustable transfoermer/adapter?
just for possibility of dimming ...for efficiency?
Or maybe i MUST use a costant current/voltage driver whit this kind of led?
regards
That's interesting. Maybe swap a couple plants between the lights and see what they do?
I switched to bridgelux 3500k gen 2 over a week ago and my lower leaves are yellowing, but i'm sure it's just my ignorance. Started feeding also.
https://www.rollitup.org/t/yellowing-2-wks-after-start-of-feeding.956732/page-2
Attachments
Last edited:
Good point, I have been wondering about deficiency and you are the first to mention it. Could be the soil was getting depleted and I added more light. Just checked with the lux meter, very even light spread. 18 x 1ft Gen 2 overhead and 4 x 2ft. vertically, one in each corner. I should put the cobs back in and sweep with the lux meter.
snooplover5
Active Member
Well here we are. I finally managed to find the time to set this all up. Here's 12 280mm gen2 strips (3x5000k and 9x3500k) ran by a hlg-120h-20a. Can't wait to see how it performs vs my old vero 18 build!
Kenny Grows
Active Member
So why does everyone get the non-dimable A type drivers. I'm getting 16 one foot strips and debating between HLG 240H 20 A or B. Why should I get A type?
Danielson999
Well-Known Member
The A series are perfectly fine to adjust to 50% which suits most people. It's simple adjusting it although to get exact power usage you really need to have the light plugged into a power meter. For me, I built a light for a flowering tent that for 99% of the time will be left on or near maximum. I have no use for an external dimmer. But then again some guys mount drivers outside the tent and prefer hooking up a pot and moving it inside the tent for ease of use.
To be honest, my flowering tent has no need for dimming at all, it's just an 'extra' feature on my lights.
I enjoy having dimming from 0 or 10% up to 100% for vegging since seedlings and clones can't always take 100%. That's just me...but both will work fine it just matters how you yourself will use them.
Kenny Grows
Active Member
Ok thank you. I'm rebuilding my flower light now, so I'll get the A type. I have 4 Cob's but i've noticed i get a lot more light distribution with strips. So i'm adding some strips to my flower light to get more even coverage.
Clown Baby
Well-Known Member
A types are dimmable. There's a built-in pot that you have adjust from 50% to 100% with a micro screwdriver,
B types require an external pot for dimming. So if you wanted to dim below 50%, you'd need to get a B type.
frigginwizard
Well-Known Member
additionally, per HLG(robin I think) in the QB thread the type a drivers can be turned up to 10 or 15% past their rated current, the type b drivers only go up to the rated current.
wietefras
Well-Known Member
That doesn;t sound correct. In my experience the type B drivers automatically go over their rated current by 4% to 10% when you leave the dimming wires unconnected. Whereas the A type drivers seem to go up to max 100% rated current. I have only one A type driver, so I could be wrong there, but I have several the B type drivers and they all go over their rated current.
Chip Green
Well-Known Member
Every MW I own, ELG, HLG, A or B, with EB Gen 1 560mm emitters, has exceeded the rated max output, based on Kill-A-Watt numbers...
Kenny Grows
Active Member
Yea my type type A will go about %18 over it's rated current, which I don't mind for my veg light. There is no chance of giving them to much current. But I'm doing the math and if my driver goes even %1 over it'll would give my lights to much current. Anyway to limit the current a little, or should I just never turn the built-in current all the way up?
Hi, sorry, could somebody help me with those questions?
Shark006
Member
You have to weigh out the initial cost of the chips vs efficiency savings over time.
The Samsungs have better efficiency but cost a bit more than the bridgelux eb series. When you have to buy so many to get uniform coverage the efficiency matters less and less because you may need years to recover in electricity costs vs setup costs.
Hard to make a comparison without setup requirements. Hopefully someone else can chime in on your other questions
