Bridgelux EB Series Build

nevergoodenuf said:

That sucks. I have done the same before. I was switching all my lights from 120v to240v and forgot to plug in the fans and pump on a water cooled light and fried 2 COBs and 2 water cooled CPU coolers. Expensive mistake. Now everything I run is passive. I also nearly fried one while thermal testing to 320w. The graphite pads did nothing I couldn't tell, until I saw my reports.
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Mr.Head said:

I've been meaning to get one of those lazer temperature guns. I'd say they run about 30 ish when the fans are on Burnt my finger touching the heatsink of the brunt one last night. I honestly figured the COB would die long before it got that hot... that's not the case. It still works even all smokey grey.

The stupid part is I am using wagos, have a box of 100 downstairs lol. I was using the fan molex because I had them lying around... what a mistake. I got caught up in "Meh, it's working well" and just left it alone.

This is definitely a wakeup call to clean it all up, get all the wires tight and tied down. Tomorrow I'm going to go grab some enclosures for these and start building them a little safer.

edit ordered 55*C off amazon for $5

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BuddyColas said:

Please share the link of the one you chose.

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wietefras said:

Plus you don't slowly break down the timer switch by the daily 50A inrush of the led drivers.

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wietefras said:

@PicklesRus, Inrush is when the drivers start up. Check the datasheet for how much it is, but for a 200W Mean Well driver I think it's around 50A.

It's similar to the inrush with HPS, but it does seem to have much less impact. Probably because it lasts a lot shorter with led drivers.

Mean Well advises not to switch on more than 2 drivers at once on a regular domestic fuse. Although I've never heard of anyone having trouble with their fuses. Relays would be damaged slowly from inrush over time though.

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wietefras said:

@PicklesRus, Inrush is when the drivers start up. Check the datasheet for how much it is, but for a 200W Mean Well driver I think it's around 50A.

It's similar to the inrush with HPS, but it does seem to have much less impact. Probably because it lasts a lot shorter with led drivers.

Mean Well advises not to switch on more than 2 drivers at once on a regular domestic fuse. Although I've never heard of anyone having trouble with their fuses. Relays would be damaged slowly from inrush over time though.

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Abiqua said:

http://www.edn.com/design/analog/4349191/Time-delay-relay-reduces-inrush-current

https://www.ametherm.com/blog/inrush-current/calculate-inrush-current-three-steps

https://www.ametherm.com/inrush-current/how-to-stop-inrush-current



..............

Inductive Load:
Electrical devices generally made of wire that are coiled to create a magnetic field to produce mechanical work when energized. Examples of inductive loads include motors, solenoids, and relays. Inductive loads exhibit inrush of current when energized that can be many times the steady state holding current. When de-energized, the magnetic field collapses, generating a high voltage transient. This transient can cause arcing across mechanical switching contacts or can cause damage to solid-state contacts.

Inrush Current:
The initial surge of current through a load when power is first applied. An important specification to consider whenever evaluating an interface. Inrush current to an inductive load (solenoid, connector, etc.) is up to ten times the holding current.

Holding Current:
1) A specification of a load, especially an electromechanical load. The current that is drawn by a load while it is energized. Also called "sealed current" of a load. See "inrush current". 2) The current necessary to maintain a thyristor in the "on" state.

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PicklesRus said:

So with the sensible thing be to get a controller that turns your drivers on one minute apart from each other

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Abiqua said:

You can size diifferent resistors and have them go to ground after, thats another way, time delay.
You can also do the same thing with resistors, and as both of them are used for in rush protection, you can use them for timing offset too...

but, you really just need the top of the wave or near the top of it and you could have all drivers come on at the same time, and in theory, there is no in-rush; In-rush only occurs in the bottom of wave.....

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PicklesRus said:

Guys. I have been working on Chinese suppliers of aluminum channels for the strips and it seems like 24.1 mm compatibility in a low profile is kind a hard to find. There's a couple options and so far the shipping prices are pretty ridiculous like around US$35 which isn't too bad all the way up to US$120 just for five pieces . Price on the profiles himself is pretty good around five bucks or less US per strip

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PicklesRus said:

Guys. I have been working on Chinese suppliers of aluminum channels for the strips and it seems like 24.1 mm compatibility in a low profile is kind a hard to find. There's a couple options and so far the shipping prices are pretty ridiculous like around US$35 which isn't too bad all the way up to US$120 just for five pieces . Price on the profiles himself is pretty good around five bucks or less US per strip

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PicklesRus said:

Seeing how i can get aluminum locally for 3$ per strip ill do that instead.

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Danielson999 said:

Princess Auto has some c channel. alustock.ca does also, need to register to see prices.

https://ecommerce.metalsupermarkets.com/MSC-Home.aspx

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