Brown extract from cured buds

BobCajun

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
Here's what the acetone extract of flue cured trim looks like. Not green at all. The finished product is like hash oil more than weed oil. Actually makes very good hash when mixed with powder. I use sifted leached weed. I get about 10% powder from it. Since the resin was leached out, it sifts easily at room temperature.

I guess that must be wax floating on top. I heated the trim with the acetone in a microwave for about 15-20 seconds to heat it up and also make the trim more flexible so it can be compressed down into the measuring cup a lot more than normal. That means I don't need to use much acetone for it to be over the top of the trim when compressed. Took 150 ml to extract 50 g of trim in 3 portions, the second two portions being less than the first.

After the pic I removed most of that wax by putting the bottom of a spoon on the surface so the wax would stick to it. Did that a bunch of times and most of it was gone. Doubt it would cause any harm anyway. I really didn't want to do any filtering, too much trouble and you lose some on the filters. There's no particles when I pour it from the first measuring glass to a second smaller one and then from that one to the plate. Whatever dropped out when I first poured it from the big glass stays in the bottom of the second glass when I pour that one off into the plate.

2yxhffd.jpg


I know you can see the camera reflection on there but it's okay because my face isn't behind it. I just held it over the plate. Can't see shit through that wax anyway. This pic shows how the curing removes pretty much all of the chlorophyll though. Like the weed, the extract is reddish brown.
 
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Here's the hash I made out of it. Not a bad yield for trim. I started with 46 grams of trim so I got 30%. Sweet. Doesn't look as grainy in real life, it's just blown way up in the image, only about an inch square in reality. Smells exactly like Afghan hash btw. That's the curing.

ifoi89.jpg
 
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gwpharms said:
What grade of acetone did you use?
Technical, reagent,histological?
Click to expand...
Hardware store grade, car painting section. Pretty sure it has less toxins in it than weed itself, we're talking parts per million. If I had a still and it was all metal I would use it to purify it first but I don't. Those things are costly.
 
a senile fungus said:
You use heat to turn your weed brown. Please stop referring to that "tech" as curing.

Thank you :bigjoint:
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So flue curing isn't curing? Weird how it has the word curing in it, don't you think? But for you, I'll offer the alternative of "dechorophylled". Does that pass the senile fungus censor board? I'll still call it cured, because it is, but whenever you read my posts and see the word "cured" just mentally substitute the word "dechlorophylled". It will save you a lot of anxiety.
 
From Mel Franks Book ,,,,,,,,,,

Flue Curing

Flue curing differs from air curing in that the process is speeded up by using an external source of heat, and the air circulation is more closely regulated. This method can be used with small quantities of material in a small, airtight curing box constructed for the purpose. Large quantities can be hung in a room or barn as described in Air Curing.

A simple way to control the temperature when curing or drying small amounts of marijuana is to place the material to be cured in a watertight box (or a bottle) with ventilation holes on the top. Place the box in a water-filled container, such as a pot, fish-tank, or bathtub. The curing box contains air and will float. The water surrounding the box is maintained at the correct temperature by means of a stove or hotplate, fish-tank or water-bed heater, or any inexpensive immersible heater. Temperature of the water is monitored.

With the marijuana loosely packed, maintain water temperature at 90 degrees. After several days, the green tissue turns a pale yellow-green or murky colour, indicating yellow or brown pigments. Then increase temperature, to about 100 degrees, until all traces of green disappear. Raise the temperature once again, this time to 115 degrees, until a full, ripe colour develops. Also increase ventilation at this time, so that the marijuana dries. Plants dried at high temperature tend to be brittle; so lower the temperature before drying is completed. This last phase of drying can be done at room temperature, out of the water bath. The whole process takes a week or less.

Marijuana cured by this technique turns a deep brown colour. Immature material may retain some chlorophyll and have a slight greenish cast. Taste is rich yet mild.
 
RM3 said:
From Mel Franks Book ,,,,,,,,,,

Flue Curing

Flue curing differs from air curing in that the process is speeded up by using an external source of heat, and the air circulation is more closely regulated. This method can be used with small quantities of material in a small, airtight curing box constructed for the purpose. Large quantities can be hung in a room or barn as described in Air Curing.

A simple way to control the temperature when curing or drying small amounts of marijuana is to place the material to be cured in a watertight box (or a bottle) with ventilation holes on the top. Place the box in a water-filled container, such as a pot, fish-tank, or bathtub. The curing box contains air and will float. The water surrounding the box is maintained at the correct temperature by means of a stove or hotplate, fish-tank or water-bed heater, or any inexpensive immersible heater. Temperature of the water is monitored.

With the marijuana loosely packed, maintain water temperature at 90 degrees. After several days, the green tissue turns a pale yellow-green or murky colour, indicating yellow or brown pigments. Then increase temperature, to about 100 degrees, until all traces of green disappear. Raise the temperature once again, this time to 115 degrees, until a full, ripe colour develops. Also increase ventilation at this time, so that the marijuana dries. Plants dried at high temperature tend to be brittle; so lower the temperature before drying is completed. This last phase of drying can be done at room temperature, out of the water bath. The whole process takes a week or less.

Marijuana cured by this technique turns a deep brown colour. Immature material may retain some chlorophyll and have a slight greenish cast. Taste is rich yet mild.
Click to expand...
Yeah I've seen that one about the water filled container. That's actually the one and only thing on the Internet about flue curing weed that I could find. I'm sure it would work but seems a little impractical and messy. You have to open the thing up every so often to stir it around or add moisture so that's going to be pretty messy with all that water. I think my container and heating pad method is considerably more practical and has been shown to work. No way I'm going to use a tank of water just to provide heat when heating pads are so much easier and non-messy. Thanks for posting that though, so people can see that flue curing weed is a real thing, not just some wacky idea I dreamed up.

It makes way better oil than green weed. I could sell it as hash oil, looks and smells exactly the same. I find acetone is the best solvent for getting an oil that is like hash oil. Alcohol makes a much cruder product. It's a less selective solvent for weed resin, also evaporates much slower and stinks a lot more. Just no benefits really aside from being able to use plastic vessels and utensils without it dissolving. BTW, if I had extracted cold I wouldn't have got that wax on top. I just find that heating in a microwave is helpful for getting the most yield and making the weed soft and compressible so I can squeeze the solvent out better. It's MAE, microwave assisted extraction. Anyone can research that if they want.
 
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BobCajun said:
Hardware store grade, car painting section. Pretty sure it has less toxins in it than weed itself, we're talking parts per million. If I had a still and it was all metal I would use it to purify it first but I don't. Those things are costly.
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Just wondering. Im sure its fine but fyi
Hardware store acetone has impurities in in that comes from the manufacturing and also contains some water.

Reagent grade is more pure and more dry good for lab testing.
Hislogical grade is the only safe grade for human contact. Its 99.9% pure and dry

Nail polish remover is histological grade but it is adulterated with diatonium benzoate. Just a few ppm will ruin anything.
If your as old as me you might remember when drug store or hardware store acetone was very pure and un adulterated.
They stopped doing this because pure acetone is used to wash and purify amphetamines.
So to stop this the powers that be required all OTC acetone to be adulterated to ruin your meth or coke or in the case of hardware store acetone just not pure enough. Your product would be contaminated with inorganics that dont evap fully and the water will wash away some product.
 
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gwpharms said:
Just wondering. Im sure its fine but fyi
Hardware store acetone has impurities in in that comes from the manufacturing process ( reactions with metals and such.inorganics) and also likley contains some water.

Reagent grade is more pure and more dry good for lab testing.
Hislogical grade is the only safe grade for human contact. Its 99.9% pure and dry

Nail polish remover is histological grade but it is adulterated with diatonium benzoate. Just a few ppm will ruin anything.
If your as old as me you might remember when drug store or hardware store acetone was very pure and un adulterated.
They stopped doing this because pure acetone is used to wash and purify amphetamines.
So to stop this the powers that be required all OTC acetone to be adulterated to ruin your meth or coke or in the case of hardware store acetone just not pure enough. Your product would be contaminated with inorganics that dont evap fully and the water will wash away some product.
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Glad I don't live in the US then. I get the good stuff where I live. I didn't see any significant residue when I evaporated a few drops on a mirror. But you never know so I guess I should find a purer grade or use USP isopropanol, even though it sucks in comparison. Thanks for the tip. I found an MSDS from one common supplier, 100%. You worry too much dude. Or live in the US too much. That's a Canadian company, land of the uncontaminated solvents. In fact that's the actual brand I use. Got lucky there. I think there are precursor laws which include acetone but everybody just ignores them apparently. No goddamn DEA.
 
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It's incredibly expensive. I just purchased a gallon yesterday for $96. Sigma-aldrich. But yeah if you have the means get yourself a liter and experiment with that. It's also used for lots of other stuff so it's not really a watched thing. You just can not buy it in the store. You would only raise red flags if you purchased it by the barrel full
 
I'm only talking ppm so your fine. Something can be labeled as 100% pure and still contain PPM of whatever. For example diet tonium benzoate is 30 PPM in 100% pure acetone but that is enough to ruin reactions. Yes I am being overzealous you're right. I'm preaching lab Doctrine which is just not within the means of most people. We have classes of solvents. Not sure about where you live but we have class 1 Class 2 to and class 3 depending on their toxicity. I would have to check where technical grade acetone Falls. But it is not in the same class as butane.my state allows 0 ppm class 3 solvent
 
gwpharms said:
I'm only talking ppm so your fine. Something can be labeled as 100% pure and still contain PPM of whatever. For example diet tonium benzoate is 30 PPM in 100% pure acetone but that is enough to ruin reactions. Yes I am being overzealous you're right. I'm preaching lab Doctrine which is just not within the means of most people. We have classes of solvents. Not sure about where you live but we have class 1 Class 2 to and class 3 depending on their toxicity. I would have to check where technical grade acetone Falls. But it is not in the same class as butane.my state allows 0 ppm class 3 solvent
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Even the stuff from chem companies has some impurities, but then so does tap water. You got it rough in the states though. Acetone is low toxicity for a solvent, about like alcohol.

When I make the oil, after evaporation I put the plate in the microwave for about 30 seconds at a time and then stir it around on the plate rapidly with the end of a small knife. until it cools down again. That evaporates all solvent, water and more volatile compounds, making it get thicker and thicker. It takes maybe 4 or 5 such heatings/stirrings. When it gets to a nice thick consistency I stop. Without the heating/stirring it would be quite thin, which is not good for making hash. Yes, it evaporates some terpenes but that's the idea, to get the thin terps out so it will get thick. The terps are like a thinner. It still has plenty of hash smell though.

Maybe it's not even terps coming out, just water, I don't know. There's always water after the evaporation because it condenses from the air because the acetone gets cold from the evaporation. I wick the big drops up with tissue but the rest needs to be heated out. It might dry by itself if I left it in the air for a long time but I just like to get it done quickly.
 
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BTW I know that you can get iso oil to be an amber color also, by doing a quick extraction so you only dissolve the trichs, but the extract shown in my image was made by me heating and then squishing the hell out of a cup full of trim after microwaving it. When I used the same process with uncured trim it always came out with a greenish tinge. I could even grind the cured trim to powder and it would still come out brown. There's no chlorophyll in it to start with. By being able to microwave and squish, I can get maximum yield.
 
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