knowledgelife
Member
check roots, for fungus nats, other wise nut defect. flush lightly and try again. Foliar feedings should help in these cases. don't over fertilize.
you'll cause a lock up.
you'll cause a lock up.
Brown / Rust spots all over lower fan leaves
- Thread starter @Charlie
- Start date
Devilspawn
Well-Known Member
Mine turned out to be Cal Mg- as soon as I added some untreated well water ( 300 pmm, 19 grain) and epsom salts, it stopped. The DI water/RO water leaves them deficient. ALso helped buffer pH swings
dangledo
Well-Known Member
defect of the nut?
Shankapotomus
Member
Thought I would check this thread out and see what happens as I learn a lot from looking around and getting some advise. This post is old, but I will post anyway in hopes
that someone else can learn from my experiences.
that someone else can learn from my experiences.
The Particulars:
Flower room.
2 1000 HPS on rail 12/12
20 bucket RDWC 3.5 gals each + 50gal res. recirculates 1hr for every2
Inside grow
City water, 24hr rest @117ppm
Nutes. GH, running Lucus 8/16 brought down to800-900ppm
Running CO2 generator with controller @1500ppm
Day air temp, 75/85
Night air temp 60/65
Humidity day up to 75% Night 45/50
*** Nute Temp trying to keep under 69, but has ran as high as 75. I currently await arrival of chiller, for now frozen water bottles.
I am 3 weeks old into this new room and am still dialing it in. It is fully controlled and I just need to get the nute temp in check. don't want to fully diagnose this till all is well and dialed in.
Plant health, 75 to 95%.
Flower room.
2 1000 HPS on rail 12/12
20 bucket RDWC 3.5 gals each + 50gal res. recirculates 1hr for every2
Inside grow
City water, 24hr rest @117ppm
Nutes. GH, running Lucus 8/16 brought down to800-900ppm
Running CO2 generator with controller @1500ppm
Day air temp, 75/85
Night air temp 60/65
Humidity day up to 75% Night 45/50
*** Nute Temp trying to keep under 69, but has ran as high as 75. I currently await arrival of chiller, for now frozen water bottles.
I am 3 weeks old into this new room and am still dialing it in. It is fully controlled and I just need to get the nute temp in check. don't want to fully diagnose this till all is well and dialed in.
Plant health, 75 to 95%.
Ok following this thread here is the problem I have. Spots getting
worse,spreading and eventually the leaf dies.
FYI NO BUGS!
Here is what it starts off as.
Next it progress's to this.
And finally to here.
I am thinking it's a Mag deficiency. I am going to treat with foliage spraying
with Cal/Mag as soon as I get my nute temp in control.
Will give update through out treatment.
worse,spreading and eventually the leaf dies.
FYI NO BUGS!
Here is what it starts off as.
Next it progress's to this.
And finally to here.
I am thinking it's a Mag deficiency. I am going to treat with foliage spraying
with Cal/Mag as soon as I get my nute temp in control.
Will give update through out treatment.
HUSTLERBOY20
Well-Known Member
something like this ?
HB20
HB20
Attachments
WisdomFarmer
Well-Known Member
20 years of growing told me its ph, like the first bloke said . The End.
Soilwatcher
Member
Although spider mites can leave similar symptoms, most of the example photos on this thread appear to be mag deficiency. If you use Epsom Salts, make sure it is Organic Epsom Salts (OMRI Listed) for Ag use. Make sure to keep an eye on your pH as the sulfur in ES can drop your pH very quickly (especially in soil grows) resulting in nutrient lock-up.
This problem can also result from high humidity or over-misting. Most leaf spot diseases need very high humidity for a prolonged period of time (12 to 24 hours) to start an infection. Leaf spots often mature in one to two weeks. At this point spores or bacteria can be spread throughout the canopy, starting a second set of leaf spots, or causing new infections on other plants. This cycle of infection and spore production repeats whenever conditions are favorable. As a result, leaf spot pathogens can spread throughout your canopy resulting in severe disease. In commercial organic Ag, we use BioWorks Cease for controlling a wide array of both fungal and bacterial pathogens. We normally add this to our "Worm Tea" for foliar and soil application. It is important to treat your soil as spores will reside there until favorable conditions occur and you get a repeat of the problem.
This problem can also result from high humidity or over-misting. Most leaf spot diseases need very high humidity for a prolonged period of time (12 to 24 hours) to start an infection. Leaf spots often mature in one to two weeks. At this point spores or bacteria can be spread throughout the canopy, starting a second set of leaf spots, or causing new infections on other plants. This cycle of infection and spore production repeats whenever conditions are favorable. As a result, leaf spot pathogens can spread throughout your canopy resulting in severe disease. In commercial organic Ag, we use BioWorks Cease for controlling a wide array of both fungal and bacterial pathogens. We normally add this to our "Worm Tea" for foliar and soil application. It is important to treat your soil as spores will reside there until favorable conditions occur and you get a repeat of the problem.
Misterbeans
Member
Well time for me to pipe up as a 20 year grower of grass lol. I see different samples in the pics, to properly diagnose humidity and everything is a factor. The rust fungus is easy to figure out, rub the leaf with your fingers if it leaves your finger rust you figured it out, cut only the bad parts for the leaves. I've experienced it. I have dealt with several issues and studied for years deficiencies. I must say with the minimum info I have in my opinion it looks like ph fluctuation or incorrect ph. I recommend no nutrients at all and flushing the soil or . Then make sure you use correct ph for soil. If it's hydro I would say the same ph issue it's not spider mites people make a huge deal of mites and they are not cool but it takes long time to develop issues and it looks nothing like this. Nutes, nutes, nutes huh lol. I hate to rain on the parade but in soil they are not needed unless there is a deficiency. The hype that adding nutes gains yield and faster grows is a sales pitch, there is no magic formula. 2 plants same strain same nutes even from same mother will yield different amounts. If you want a successful grow I'll give you advice. Take 6 plants same strain give 3 nutes and the other 3 no nutes and tell me which one comes out better. Heat stress can be avoided with co2. Anyway I know it's an old thread but regardless cut the bad part of the leaves off and correct the ph and maintain the same level. They will be fine with minimal stress. Always start with ph first and it's more common to have too many nutrients or a lock out from incorrect ph than a deficiency. Deficiency had been thrown around to sell nutes like diamonds are rare lol. Most importantly of all and here it goes ventilation, make sure your tent has the correct air exchange you can get the same issues. Everything shrivels up and dies when you choke it, quit beating your meat and smoking grass and fix that weed
Loudigity
Well-Known Member
If you mist with lights on could burn leaves. In my experience its a fungi the rust coloured spots people often mistake it for a deficiency
ruxing
Active Member
Best advice I've read so far @Misterbeans!
Good stuff here too @Soilwatcher! I had the rust when I up-potted and the humidity increased... need to look into a good organic fungal spray, I'll be looking into that product thanks for sharing
