Michael Phelps
Well-Known Member
I placed an order hydroguard and hygrozyme tonight. I switched the water in my reservoir and added a very slight amount of peroxide, just to kinda keep the roots at bay for 2 days well i wait for the order..
brown slimy roots
- Thread starter apasunee
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laceygirl
Well-Known Member
If you seriously want to fix this problem, you need to get some Canna Rhizotonic and Cannazym... They are specifically made to deal with this exact problem... What roots can't be saved, these natural chemicals will turn them back into sugars, promote new root growth for the plant and clear up any parasite issues.... I cannot speak highly enough about these two products and you can buy them in little bottles you don't have to fork out for the big ones.... Hope all goes well... I have had this before.... I fixed it and all was good....
fatman7574
New Member
HACH Chlorine colorimeter and a 5 dollar gallon of chlorine. Usually a HACH colorimerter can be bought used on eBay for about $50 to $75. http://cgi.ebay.com/HACH-Chlorine-Free-Total-Pocket-Colorimeter-II_W0QQitemZ140372628182QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item20aedc52d6
A HACH Colorimeter should last a decade or two. Each test cost about 20 cents and a bottle of chlorox costs about $5. Safer then H2O2 as you can readily and cheaply test for for both total and residual chlorine levels and it is not as strong an oxidant as H2O2 so less chances of errors from over doses.
Chlorine works for 10's of thousands of commercial green house growers.
Myself, I am not all that into using organics in a inert media using chemical nutrients. IMHO Kinda ludicrous to take steps backwards by adding organics. Might as well just admit defeat and go back to a soil grow and full organics as to add organic supplements and turn a clean chemical nutrient solution into an organic soup.
A HACH Colorimeter should last a decade or two. Each test cost about 20 cents and a bottle of chlorox costs about $5. Safer then H2O2 as you can readily and cheaply test for for both total and residual chlorine levels and it is not as strong an oxidant as H2O2 so less chances of errors from over doses.
Chlorine works for 10's of thousands of commercial green house growers.
Myself, I am not all that into using organics in a inert media using chemical nutrients. IMHO Kinda ludicrous to take steps backwards by adding organics. Might as well just admit defeat and go back to a soil grow and full organics as to add organic supplements and turn a clean chemical nutrient solution into an organic soup.
redirasta
Well-Known Member
I Don't think it makes a damn bit of difference, I never paid any attention to these brown roots as long as the plants are healthy. If i were you I would cover the roots with black plastic so no light gets in. Usually the section of the roots above the water got brown we call em ropes the roots in the basin usually don't get brown. I just spray them off when I change the water it never seems to harm my plants so I leave it alone, I grow organic, a little slime never hurt anything.
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fatman7574
New Member
Chlorox bleach sold for home use: One drop is nominally considered equal to 0.06 ml, so it would 1.6 drops per gallon to add 0.10 ml (1 ppm). 8 drops per gallon would equal 5 ppm. If you actually had a root rot problem that would be a fine dosage initially if added over a period of say 30 minutes as most of it would be used up oxidixing all the existing dead roots so your residual chlorine would likely be less than 1 ppm. This would drop to xero within 24 to 36 hours or less depending upon your reservoir aeration and if your using misters/sprayers etc.
I pretreat my water at 5 ppm of chlorine 24 to 36 hours before its use then aeratte it until using it. For preventative tretament I add 0.05 ml per gallon of reservoir water per day to maintain a 0.5 ppm residual of chlorine. I inject with a peristaltic pump and a timer. I test for the residual chlorine level every 3 to 4 days.
I pretreat my water at 5 ppm of chlorine 24 to 36 hours before its use then aeratte it until using it. For preventative tretament I add 0.05 ml per gallon of reservoir water per day to maintain a 0.5 ppm residual of chlorine. I inject with a peristaltic pump and a timer. I test for the residual chlorine level every 3 to 4 days.
Dr. VonDank
Active Member
If you use the Hygrozyme and aquashield then don't use the H202(I should have told you to remove that from your mix). It will kill the B Subtillis. Hydroshield was the previous name for aquashield--the name and lable had to be changed since B Subtillis was in the mix. The lable now reads Liqued Poultry Compost but is the same formulation and does the trick.
Al B Fuct----You green bastered!!!---Where the hell you been???. Hows the new job working out?. Glad to have ya back even if it's a short stay---lol... You still rocking that sweettooth??? Hope things are great----Dr. VonDank
Al B Fuct----You green bastered!!!---Where the hell you been???. Hows the new job working out?. Glad to have ya back even if it's a short stay---lol... You still rocking that sweettooth??? Hope things are great----Dr. VonDank
Dr. VonDank
Active Member
Lacy---
Canna does have very good products. The aqua-shield/hygrozyme combo is basically the same treatment...Have you used the Canna Tera Professional Plus medium yet??? Wonderful to say the least--holds a steady 6.5 ph for up to 14 weeks... I used it in my last Vegan grow with the new "TEABAGGERS Organics" vegan soil mix/vegan tea mix/ and Super Bug. The plants were the healthiest plants I've grown in a long time with massive turkey leg colas dripping with dank dew--lol...
Canna does have very good products. The aqua-shield/hygrozyme combo is basically the same treatment...Have you used the Canna Tera Professional Plus medium yet??? Wonderful to say the least--holds a steady 6.5 ph for up to 14 weeks... I used it in my last Vegan grow with the new "TEABAGGERS Organics" vegan soil mix/vegan tea mix/ and Super Bug. The plants were the healthiest plants I've grown in a long time with massive turkey leg colas dripping with dank dew--lol...
fatman7574
New Member
Just say chicken shit.
Dr. VonDank
Active Member
Ok------------Your a pile of chicken shit!!!-----there you go chlorine man--I said it, just for you---lol.
fatman7574
New Member
Got that backward dinkus I advocate the chlorine you are the one playing with and promoting the chicken shit supplements not I.
This is the aero and hydro section not a throw anything that rots in the reservoir organics as seems to be your methodology. There is an organics section for your old backward/backyard back to the earth organic farmer methodologies and chicken shit organic remedies given fancy names by snake oil nutrient marketers.
This is the aero and hydro section not a throw anything that rots in the reservoir organics as seems to be your methodology. There is an organics section for your old backward/backyard back to the earth organic farmer methodologies and chicken shit organic remedies given fancy names by snake oil nutrient marketers.
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
Again, enzymes are proteins. Proteins are organic matter and H2O2 will decompose them on contact. If Hygrozyme is made with enzymes, H2O2 will neutralise it if used in a strength sufficient for killing pathogens. If you use so little H2O2 that there's not enough strength to fully break down all the Hygrozyme in a solution, it won't be strong enough to kill pathogens, either.
The only reason I can think of why the makers of Hygrozyme would say that it's usable with H2O2 is that they know that while H2O2 will instantly decompose the proteins the stuff is made from, H2O2 will solve the pathogen problem, regardless.
As to whether or not Hygrozyme by itself is worth using, I can't find any data from independent testing which demonstrates efficacy- only sales blurbs which claim it is wonderful stuff.
The European distributor of Hygrozyme says this about the stuff:
This line makes no sense:
...a ppm of 1-2% solution? Huh?
If they mean a nute solution with 1-2% (pure?) H2O2- that's a very strong dose of H2O2. That's equivalent to 20-40ml of 50% grade H2O2 per litre of tank volume, which would yield a concentration of 10,000-20,000ppm. H2O2 is effective as a steriliser at as little as 30-100ppm. I normally recommend 50% grade H2O2 at 1ml/L, which is 2000ppm.
Hygrozyme, if it works as claimed, may have a prophylactic effect in preventing pathogen growth, but if you apply H2O2 regularly every 3-4 days, you get the same benefit.
I both use and recommend H2O2 because it both kills pathogens and oxygenates roots. The job's done in one.
Good to see you, too.
Been busy, mon. Doing a writing gig that takes up all the time I once had to post on pot boards.
Still running the Sweet Tooth #4. Reliable as sunrise since 2002.
As to fatman's use of sodium hypochlorite (laundry bleach), I'm sure that'll work to sterilise a solution. However, the breakdown components of NaOCl are oxygen and sodium chloride (yep, NaCl, table salt). It seems to me that you'd have to mind the dosage of NaOCl closely to prevent having a problematic amount of salinity in the nute solution.
laceygirl
Well-Known Member
I love Canna..... Been using it for years...For all my indoor growing. I actually use Canna Classic.... Works well in a DWC/top feeder...
But for my outdoor grow this year, I am going to be using Canna Terra soil and BioCanna for nutes... I have heard that you need a little more nitrogen for this particular line, but that's easy fixed... Canna is just set and forget....Can't wait to grow under the Australian Sun.....
fatman7574
New Member
Nope, got your chemistry wrong the break down of Sodium Hypochlorite does not produce table salt. NaOCl + H2O -> HOCL + NaOH Then, The hydrochlorous acid reacts as follows HOCl + H- +2e- -> Cl- + H2O allowing for the chlorine ion to be an oxidizer. Sodium Hydroxde (NaOH) is definitely not table salt, and neither is hydrochlorous acid (HOCl). In HOCL the actual percentage of chlorine is 67.7 percent. (35.5/52.5) x 100% = 67.7 %Again, enzymes are proteins. Proteins are organic matter and H2O2 will decompose them on contact. If Hygrozyme is made with enzymes, H2O2 will neutralise it if used in a strength sufficient for killing pathogens. If you use so little H2O2 that there's not enough strength to fully break down all the Hygrozyme in a solution, it won't be strong enough to kill pathogens, either.
The only reason I can think of why the makers of Hygrozyme would say that it's usable with H2O2 is that they know that while H2O2 will instantly decompose the proteins the stuff is made from, H2O2 will solve the pathogen problem, regardless.
As to whether or not Hygrozyme by itself is worth using, I can't find any data from independent testing which demonstrates efficacy- only sales blurbs which claim it is wonderful stuff.
The European distributor of Hygrozyme says this about the stuff:
This line makes no sense:
...a ppm of 1-2% solution? Huh?
If they mean a nute solution with 1-2% (pure?) H2O2- that's a very strong dose of H2O2. That's equivalent to 20-40ml of 50% grade H2O2 per litre of tank volume, which would yield a concentration of 10,000-20,000ppm. H2O2 is effective as a steriliser at as little as 30-100ppm. I normally recommend 50% grade H2O2 at 1ml/L, which is 2000ppm.
Hygrozyme, if it works as claimed, may have a prophylactic effect in preventing pathogen growth, but if you apply H2O2 regularly every 3-4 days, you get the same benefit.
I both use and recommend H2O2 because it both kills pathogens and oxygenates roots. The job's done in one.
Good to see you, too.
Been busy, mon. Doing a writing gig that takes up all the time I once had to post on pot boards.
Still running the Sweet Tooth #4. Reliable as sunrise since 2002.
As to fatman's use of sodium hypochlorite (laundry bleach), I'm sure that'll work to sterilise a solution. However, the breakdown components of NaOCl are oxygen and sodium chloride (yep, NaCl, table salt). It seems to me that you'd have to mind the dosage of NaOCl closely to prevent having a problematic amount of salinity in the nute solution.
Pratice sane weekly changing of nutrient solutions and sodium is ceartainly not an issue. Even without weekly nutrient exchange we are talking ppm concentrations. Take quite a while to accumulate high sodium levels at that rate. Combined levels of sodium and chlorine up to about 75 ppm are considered acceptable in hydroponics. That means even at 0.5 ppm added three times a week maining also say 0.15 of sodium with it and all remaining in the reservoir with no chlorine being even dissipated that means it would take over 80 weeks without changing the reservoir water before it became an issue. Even the really cheap growers usually would not even consider an 80 week span without changing out and cleaning the reservoir. I would hope anyway.
I love when some "horticulturalists" advocate mixing chemical oxidizers and organic susbstances. Makes the nutrient mang facturers good money, anyway. Chicken dung suuplements is ludicrous enough. Next these same "horticulturlist's" will be suggesting that others mix acid and sodium hypochlorite bleach.
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
Thanks for that, fatman.
I had a rough idea of what road I was on, just not how many lanes it had.
I had a rough idea of what road I was on, just not how many lanes it had.
Dr. VonDank
Active Member
do not mix any kind of acid and hypochlorite bleach---very very dangerous!!!
fatman7574
New Member
...Dooh...!
redirasta
Well-Known Member
this can actually give you chlorine deficiency, chlorine also causes lock out of calcium, magnesium and other shit, plants will become dependent on this and you will have to keep adding more, what is the grave concern, this is a weed, if it were growing in a creek bed what color would the roots be?? who knows, we just called it "roping out" and never hurt a thing.
RobMar
Active Member
Do I use these two products together or are you just suggesting two different options?
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
You're quite right, I did muff that.
While it's a bit like asking a brain surgeon to carve a turkey, I consulted with a mate who is a Ph.D/medicine and she confirms your assertion:
I guess the next question is 'what is a 'high concentration' of HOCl' as regards plants?'
And a further question is begged- why not use H2O2, which is a good bit more plant-friendly and puts O2 in the rootmass?