Bubbleponics slow grow

mararules said:

As you can tell some leaves from the first and second picture are turning yellow and crispy. From what I have been reading one possible cause is deficiency in nutes?

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No. Those are the leaves that had deficiency in the PAST. They will continue to get worse. There is nothing you can do to make them look better. Focus on the NEW growth. It looks good. The discoloration and twisting is the aftermath of your ph issues. The leaves that were developing then were permanently damaged.

You've been doing so well not screwing with the plants and giving them time to recover, don't screw things up now Its only been 3 DAYS, let these continue to grow out and you should be very happy in a few days. Just keep the nutes the same and keep ph in check.

DrBlaze said:

How about this:

Change out water, give it RO, no h2o2 and feed it 150ppm or so. They need to be fed. They're showing what look like signs of deficiencies, but we would be able to see better if you had white light.

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Thanks Doc.
So did all that and added some Hydroguard and looks to be doing ok right now, however, my PH and PPM keeps climbing. I have an auto PH setup.
Will that jumping up and down have an effect on the plants? Starts 5.75 and climbs slowly to 6.05, then system brings it back down to 5.75. It increases .01-.02 per hour.
PPM started at 180 and increases every day. I had removed some Res water and added fresh RO to keep around 200-250.

I am starting to see a lot of new white roots from all the pots now.

Also, I started the seeds in plugs, in the system. I do not remove the plugs and put the straight into the media, do I?

DrBlaze said:

No. Those are the leaves that had deficiency in the PAST. They will continue to get worse. There is nothing you can do to make them look better. Focus on the NEW growth. It looks good. The discoloration and twisting is the aftermath of your ph issues. The leaves that were developing then were permanently damaged.

You've been doing so well not screwing with the plants and giving them time to recover, don't screw things up now Its only been 3 DAYS, let these continue to grow out and you should be very happy in a few days. Just keep the nutes the same and keep ph in check.

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I see, it makes sense now. Living and learning! Well instead of increasing nutes I actually cleaned the whole system, the res had quite a lot of solid stuff in the bottom, so I take it was a good idea... ppm stands at 400. Thanks for advices bro

Hi guys,

Today is day 13 and I'm not sure of whats going on with the girls. I thought that the yellowing and dry leaves would stop happening but more and more leaves are showing the same issues. Check it out:


The photos are from the same plant, the other 2 have something similar. Ppm on 400 and ph 6... Any clues?

ppm too high in my opinion.

is you ppm's going up daily?

i saw you have an auto pH system? disable that for now. you should only adjust pH at most twice a day. set it low at 5.5 and let it climb. re-adjust when you get to 6.1

can you take a pic of the netpot and roots? that would help

rkymtnman said:

ppm too high in my opinion.

is you ppm's going up daily?

i saw you have an auto pH system? disable that for now. you should only adjust pH at most twice a day. set it low at 5.5 and let it climb. re-adjust when you get to 6.1

can you take a pic of the netpot and roots? that would help

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Sorry Marules/rkymtnman, that is me with the auto PH. I'll start my own thread to eliminate the confusion. I jumped in as the issue and setups are very similar.

NORMLnorm said:

Sorry Marules/rkymtnman, that is me with the auto PH. I'll start my own thread to eliminate the confusion. I jumped in as the issue and setups are very similar.

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oops. i didn't notice. we're all here to learn together.

are your issues resolving norm?

OldMedUser said:

You'll notice that things like iron and others are listed as ug/L which directly equates to ppm but the nitrates, sodium, chlorine and copper are all listed as mg/L which you have to multiply by 1000 to get ppm. Crazy high in all of those except copper.

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Close. Actually a mg would directly convert to ppm. A ug would be a ppb. A mg is 1000/th of a gram and 1 gram is 1000th of a liter, so a mg is a millionth of a liter, a ppm.

mararules said:

Hi guys,

Today is day 13 and I'm not sure of whats going on with the girls. I thought that the yellowing and dry leaves would stop happening but more and more leaves are showing the same issues. Check it out:View attachment 3883272 View attachment 3883274


The photos are from the same plant, the other 2 have something similar. Ppm on 400 and ph 6... Any clues?

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Those 2 pictures you just showed, which plants are which if I compare to the second set you showed on the last page?

Also what nutrient are you using? I think firsttimeARE had it spot on with his chart. Calcium is tricky and too much of it will lock out almost everything else. There's a reason so many use RO for hydroponics, and I think you are experiencing it.

BobCajun said:

Close. Actually a mg would directly convert to ppm. A ug would be a ppb. A mg is 1000/th of a gram and 1 gram is 1000th of a liter, so a mg is a millionth of a liter, a ppm.

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Thanks for catching that Bob.

And they wonder why I never paid off my student loan.

rkymtnman said:

ppm too high in my opinion.

is you ppm's going up daily?

i saw you have an auto pH system? disable that for now. you should only adjust pH at most twice a day. set it low at 5.5 and let it climb. re-adjust when you get to 6.1

can you take a pic of the netpot and roots? that would help

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Ppm is going down daily as the plants are consuming the nutes. For example just now the ppm was 385. The roots look normal to me, maybe you spot something?

DrBlaze said:

Those 2 pictures you just showed, which plants are which if I compare to the second set you showed on the last page?

Also what nutrient are you using? I think firsttimeARE had it spot on with his chart. Calcium is tricky and too much of it will lock out almost everything else. There's a reason so many use RO for hydroponics, and I think you are experiencing it.

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I'm using GeneralHydroponics trio only, will start using canazym next week.
Here's a neat comparasion

Thanks for all the comments guys! It seems that the hard water that I have available might not be suitable for he grow... but RO water is not available for me, only still water from grocery stores. Would that help you think?

Cheers

mararules said:

Thanks for all the comments guys! It seems that the hard water that I have available might not be suitable for he grow... but RO water is not available for me, only still water from grocery stores. Would that help you think?

Cheers

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You mean distilled water? If so that's just fine. I used it all the time until my distiller broke down. Cost as much in electricity as it is for me too buy RO water and added more to my huge electric bill anyway. Going to fix it and sell it to buy an RO unit.

If you could find a fert without calcium you'd be all set, you'd just have to add a bit of magnesium sulfate (as there would prob me no magnesium either). There are a lot of soluble powders with micros but without cal/mag.

For now I would add back to your solution, maybe bring it up 40-50 ppm, those plants seem to be lacking something.

I think the foil might be reflecting too much light on them and burning the leaves. Maybe something white would be less harsh, plastic bag or something.

Those bottom leaves are just staying too moist and with a bit more growth they won't matter anyway and can be removed. Should have around 300 ppm of nutes for plants that size to get them growing good.

I'd clear that foil off the top of the pots too. Let it breathe.

OldMedUser said:

You mean distilled water? If so that's just fine. I used it all the time until my distiller broke down. Cost as much in electricity as it is for me too buy RO water and added more to my huge electric bill anyway. Going to fix it and sell it to buy an RO unit.

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I meant still water, like tap water but bottled from somewhere in the country. I tested one today and it sitted at 120ppm, far better than my tap at 300ppm

DrBlaze said:

If you could find a fert without calcium you'd be all set, you'd just have to add a bit of magnesium sulfate (as there would prob me no magnesium either). There are a lot of soluble powders with micros but without cal/mag.

For now I would add back to your solution, maybe bring it up 40-50 ppm, those plants seem to be lacking something.

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Every time I increase even slightly the nutes I notice new spots/burns on the leaves

It is decided than, I'll buy a ro-di unit found a decent one within my budget, hopefully it'll help sort out this problem. I'll post when I have more news, thanks a lot for the help!

mararules said:

It is decided than, I'll buy a ro-di unit

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best money you'll ever spend for hydro other than a chiller.

RO totally eliminates your water as being a potential problem area.

I would flush well, using the purchased bottled water from your local store. Drinking water in the bottle, or distilled is fine. This water should be 7pH when purchased. With 200 ppm's, your pH will automatically go down a little. Get pH as close to 5.8 as possible.
Flush well with straight water and then use your Flora part A at 200 ppm.s. Keep it there untill you see some significant healthy growth.
Continually adding more nutrients will overtoxify your plant. The number of ppm's and pH reading should be the same when you apply as the runoff after watering. If the runoff is much higher than the ppm's you put in originally, this means too many nutrients. Flush until these numbers are close, or match.
Hard to tell in the pictures, but if your foil is facing shiny side out to the plant. this will cause pinpointed burns. Foil works best using the dull side as reflection.
Give it a few days in between to see the direction she takes.