Bud moisture for perfect bud... :-)

3rd Monkey

3rd Monkey

Well-Known Member
Kingrow1 said:
Its obvious you want to disagree with the pros and masters who frequented this site before you and those still here - i have and always do provide a very indepth look at this subject - you with your fuck science stem snapping whatever, like its hardly a writeup that is clueing newbies up.

Shame you didnt learn all ways and jsut the troll bait broscience boveda way before you came here telling us how to dry and cure - big problem with the site, like who da funk are you guys cause im a full on bonafida long term good grower who knows his dank fro his dank and has contributed a long time.

Ya back to icamag dude - this is for serious growers not those who dont give two hoots for science (that thing that everything must obey and work off....!)

:-)
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I didn't learn to grow or cure on a forum dude. I'm new to the Internet way of doing things and you haven't grasped that.

I have no idea what you are talking about with bro science or whatever. They didn't have meters to measure moisture content in the 1800s and earlier. It was trial and error. The land I live on is a family plot granted to my great, great grandfather from the civil war. Always made a living and survived off the land.

I grow, dry and cure the way it's been handed down... Long before you or I were a twinkle in anyone's eye.

That said, sling science, sling whatever you like. I don't have to agree. I accept that you do it your way, but doesn't mean I HAVE to agree.
 
Kingrow1

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
I think the end of the grow site days is in sight, trolled to death by bad info and market hype, its not a place for growers but suckers...

Unless i buy led boveda do a scrog and jar my bud at five days with some precise humidity i am just trolling idiots really - end of any info from me just happy trolling back now :-)
 
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Kingrow1 said:
back to noobness and now air moisture affects the final bud moisture - i know tobaccodry and cure dont insult m, you dont know where you wrong on that and what extra steps they do that we simplydont.

i want to go there with you - been a while since i really challenged the supposed authority on this stuff - is it you whos spreading all the broscience hype here? You have on strains lol we all lauged at you backtracking :-)
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Yup, there's steps they do that we don't.. I agree and so what? We get the job done....

You got directly to insults after that. Your known for it around here too.. Big deal...
The next part. I don't even understand your rambling point...Another insult as a defense to your NOT understanding actual science behind smoking and moisture content of material smoked.
Not to mention the wrong statement about material having a moisture content of 10-15% as curing a jar.... It just will not! Moisture content too low..

If you like your weed to crumble to dust and smoke "hot and harsh"....That's your choice...

But I'll answer back that you should keep your "bro science" incorrect statements to your self..

How about you actually supply some source material that backs your theory?

No, no! I asked YOU first....Because the facts behind my claim are all over this site by others too...

Just start with the truth behind flushing post.......

I think we've traded enough insults. They just aren't needed....Lets act like adults now,,,ok?
 
buyyouabeer

buyyouabeer

Well-Known Member
Dr. Who said:
Not to mention the wrong statement about material having a moisture content of 10-15% as curing a jar.... It just will not! Moisture content too low..
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Dr. I think you are getting RH confused with moisture content. What I post below is for wood but I imagine it can be similar to our fav. plant. If you notice your preferred RH gives you a pretty similar moisture content of around ~10-15%.


"The property of the air is called the equilibrium moisture content (EMC) and it is numerically equal to the MC that wood will achieve during drying if you wait long enough and if the conditions do not change. (Example: At 30% RH, wood will achieve 6% MC. So the air has an EMC of 6%.)

Common conversions:
0% RH = 0% MC = 0% EMC
30% = 6%
50% = 9%
65% = 12%
80% = 16%
99% = 28%"
 
B

Bobby Long Buds

Well-Known Member
Tobacco is:
1-Air cured (cigars and pipe tobacco)
2-Flue cured (majority of cigarettes)
3-Sun cured ( typical with oriental pipe tobacco/ cigarette blending)

If any tobacco is allowed to dry too fast it drys green and is total garbage. Enzymes that are responsible for turning the leaf from green to yellow to brown are killed and the leaf will be harsh garbage.

I don’t think the two plants can be treated the same. But maybe we could assume a slow dry over maybe a week or 2 would be better then a speed dry?
As far as relative humidity goes I drove myself crazy with that stuff for a few years and can’t be bothered anymore.
I just jar them when they are smokable dry now and have had better results and less stress.

I am relatively new at this so this is just the opinions of a rookie.
 
hawse

hawse

Well-Known Member
Bobby Long Buds said:
Tobacco is:
1-Air cured (cigars and pipe tobacco)
2-Flue cured (majority of cigarettes)
3-Sun cured ( typical with oriental pipe tobacco/ cigarette blending)

If any tobacco is allowed to dry too fast it drys green and is total garbage. Enzymes that are responsible for turning the leaf from green to yellow to brown are killed and the leaf will be harsh garbage.

I don’t think the two plants can be treated the same. But maybe we could assume a slow dry over maybe a week or 2 would be better then a speed dry?
As far as relative humidity goes I drove myself crazy with that stuff for a few years and can’t be bothered anymore.
I just jar them when they are smokable dry now and have had better results and less stress.

I am relatively new at this so this is just the opinions of a rookie.
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For what it's worth, I would also consider myself a newb (2.5 years growing now), but I have often found myself questioning the reason for a long slow cure based on my own strains and results... Not that I disagree or agree, I certainly don't know the science, but for example just now I have stuff that's been hanging for five days now. I cut a nug off and smoked it, and it tastes so much better and smoother than the stuff (same strain from clone) that's been sitting in a jar for almost 2.5 months now. Now to be fair, this run went about a hundred times better than last run and I'm using practically organic nutes now, but still.... The funny thing is I learned here on RIU from the thread that describes how to get down to 65RH in jars that google results found.
 
3rd Monkey

3rd Monkey

Well-Known Member
Roger A. Shrubber said:
it very much depends on the size of the stem you're trying to snap...is it toothpick thick? pencil thick? finger thick?
stems and buds are made of different material, and are of very different density...why not just feel the bud?
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Because the outside is always dry and smushing it to find the moisture isn't very courteous lol.

There's the trunk, then the branch, then the stem. I go by stems.
 
Roger A. Shrubber

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
Bobby Long Buds said:
Tobacco is:
1-Air cured (cigars and pipe tobacco)
2-Flue cured (majority of cigarettes)
3-Sun cured ( typical with oriental pipe tobacco/ cigarette blending)

If any tobacco is allowed to dry too fast it drys green and is total garbage. Enzymes that are responsible for turning the leaf from green to yellow to brown are killed and the leaf will be harsh garbage.

I don’t think the two plants can be treated the same. But maybe we could assume a slow dry over maybe a week or 2 would be better then a speed dry?
As far as relative humidity goes I drove myself crazy with that stuff for a few years and can’t be bothered anymore.
I just jar them when they are smokable dry now and have had better results and less stress.

I am relatively new at this so this is just the opinions of a rookie.
Click to expand...
weed is dried slowly for the exact same reason...chlorophyll, carbs, sugars, all have to have time to break down, enzymes have to have time to do their thing...getting it to the perfect humidity level doesn't mean shit if you do it too fast and all the harsh nasty shit doesn't have time to get broken down.
 
Roger A. Shrubber

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
3rd Monkey said:
Because the outside is always dry and smushing it to find the moisture isn't very courteous lol.

There's the trunk, then the branch, then the stem. I go by stems.
Click to expand...
courteous? it's a plant...GENTLY squeeze a good sized bud, the outside should feel firm and dry, the inside should feel about like a marshmallow...the moisture content of stems has very little to do with the moisture content of buds...
 
Kingrow1

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
buyyouabeer said:
Dr. I think you are getting RH confused with moisture content. What I post below is for wood but I imagine it can be similar to our fav. plant. If you notice your preferred RH gives you a pretty similar moisture content of around ~10-15%.


"The property of the air is called the equilibrium moisture content (EMC) and it is numerically equal to the MC that wood will achieve during drying if you wait long enough and if the conditions do not change. (Example: At 30% RH, wood will achieve 6% MC. So the air has an EMC of 6%.)

Common conversions:
0% RH = 0% MC = 0% EMC
30% = 6%
50% = 9%
65% = 12%
80% = 16%
99% = 28%"
Click to expand...
I dont know you but on you bust in on the thread with some solid info on moisture content and you actually learned me somthing i couldnt find on google - the actual difference rh makes (allbeit this is wood but we see the same moisture i ripped from another site 10-15% and my ideology that lower humidity errs on the lower side of bud moisture).

Impressive dude, thats a Rep+++ from me :-)
 
Kingrow1

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Bobby Long Buds said:
Tobacco is:
1-Air cured (cigars and pipe tobacco)
2-Flue cured (majority of cigarettes)
3-Sun cured ( typical with oriental pipe tobacco/ cigarette blending)

If any tobacco is allowed to dry too fast it drys green and is total garbage. Enzymes that are responsible for turning the leaf from green to yellow to brown are killed and the leaf will be harsh garbage.

I don’t think the two plants can be treated the same. But maybe we could assume a slow dry over maybe a week or 2 would be better then a speed dry?
As far as relative humidity goes I drove myself crazy with that stuff for a few years and can’t be bothered anymore.
I just jar them when they are smokable dry now and have had better results and less stress.

I am relatively new at this so this is just the opinions of a rookie.
Click to expand...
Yes tobacco is different and you noticed its enzymatic process that turns leaves brown they extend the cure and moisture for.

Somewhere ages ago peeps started assuming weed and tobacco are sried the same - its where the jarr wet at five days came from - and stupidity :-)
 
Kingrow1

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Sawzall77 said:
This site isn’t for just experienced growers lol. WTF you talking about!?!?!? This guys a total weirdo...
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Ya and didnt tjink it was a site for you growers to diss me being so green and yet knowledgefull - two new members just posted sone great info on wood rh moisture content and how tobacco is dried and its enzymes in the leaf but in all this time zilcho from you but stick.....

No love for the weed site or knowkedge - look around you and the industry are what we try to avoid and least believe unless you want a 1000 buck led and this weeks latest 35% thc strain.... laughable what you follow dude :-)
 
Kingrow1

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Dr. Who said:
Yup, there's steps they do that we don't.. I agree and so what? We get the job done....

You got directly to insults after that. Your known for it around here too.. Big deal...
The next part. I don't even understand your rambling point...Another insult as a defense to your NOT understanding actual science behind smoking and moisture content of material smoked.
Not to mention the wrong statement about material having a moisture content of 10-15% as curing a jar.... It just will not! Moisture content too low..

If you like your weed to crumble to dust and smoke "hot and harsh"....That's your choice...

But I'll answer back that you should keep your "bro science" incorrect statements to your self..

How about you actually supply some source material that backs your theory?

No, no! I asked YOU first....Because the facts behind my claim are all over this site by others too...

Just start with the truth behind flushing post.......

I think we've traded enough insults. They just aren't needed....Lets act like adults now,,,ok?
Click to expand...
I strughle to even quantify what you say on dry and curing but rest assured members with less posts and skills chimed in with stuff worth reading on moisture and tobacco and actually added some good info.

Still dont get ya - sorry i dont use or buy boveda or dry curing aids as im not disabled and can just do it the way the old pros did....

You were the same with led cmh exspensive rare strains benies etc always looking to try and make a name :-)
 
Kingrow1

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Equilibrium_moisture_content

Wow full marks to that guy above - this has all food storage at between 10% - 15% moisture content with a rh of 30-60.

Actually this makes for a much better read than canabis clubs version and realky cites the moisture content allbeit not marijuana but again at those levels mold cant get enough moisture to grow.

Some clever dudes here just wish the rest would do more listening not commanding whilst we leqrn and bust your myths back down to nonsense.

:-)
 
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