Building out my basement

Renfro said:
Really using the 4 as your multiplier is over sizing a little, probably smart with HPS due to all the infrared but with LED we aren't dealing with that and therefore we actually need to run the room warmer, like 85 instead of 79.

1 BTU/hr = 3.412142 Watts

So reversing your math and using the 3.412 number I get 13136 BTU/hr.

Honestly it sounds like you could get away with a 1 ton unit or if you aren't running a co2 generator and you run the lights primarily at night you could cool that grow easily with a cold air intake.

I have ran a night room (basement) with 6kW of HPS (SE) using nothing but a fresh air intake filtered with a dust shroom.

Here is what I would do. Fire up the room and let it run for a day without plants. See how hot it gets. You may find that your need for cooling is minimal at best.
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I mainly just want to make sure I can control the temperature and humidity with ease. I don’t want to have to deal with any issues by not getting a big enough ac/ heater. I’m in Oklahoma City and during the summer it can get pretty hot. I think the hottest it’s been is like 100’s.
im going to be using a co2 tank.
I was gonna try to keep the temps around 82-85. Would that be good? If so, would you want the lights off/ night time temps to be? I’ve never ran led with co2. I want to make sure I don’t get any PM with the temp/ humidity swings.
one reason why I wanted a mini split is because it was a clean/ somewhat subtle look that didn’t bring too much attention.
 
JoeBlow5823 said:
That was my whole point. He is starting out with a single hlg 600 and might add maybe 1200w more of led power..... that really wont require much cooling if any.
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Yeah I was gonna highball the watts to 650 for each led Light that I get. So like 1950- 2k watts for electric.
without doing a mini split is there a specific unit you would recommend?
 
TreeFiddy350 said:
Yeah I was gonna highball the watts to 650 for each led Light that I get. So like 1950- 2k watts for electric.
without doing a mini split is there a specific unit you would recommend?
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How cold are your winters? Most ac units dont like it when it is below like 60 outside. But if its that cold outside, you shouldnt need ac for a small LED grow like that. We sort of need an idea of how big your basement is and shit.

That being said, this window unit should be PLENTY to cool 1800w of good LEDs even on a 110 degree day.

www.homedepot.com

Frigidaire 15,000 BTU 115-Volt Window-Mounted Median Air Conditioner with Temperature Sensing Remote Control-FFRE153WAE - The Home Depot

The Frigidaire 15,000 Window-Mounted Room Air Conditioner is designed to cool up to 850 sq. ft. and keep large rooms comfortable. Features 3 different fan speeds for cooling. Six-way air direction evenly
www.homedepot.com
 
JoeBlow5823 said:
How cold are your winters? Most ac units dont like it when it is below like 60 outside. But if its that cold outside, you shouldnt need ac for a small LED grow like that. We sort of need an idea of how big your basement is and shit.

That being said, this window unit should be PLENTY to cool 1800w of good LEDs even on a 110 degree day.

www.homedepot.com

Frigidaire 15,000 BTU 115-Volt Window-Mounted Median Air Conditioner with Temperature Sensing Remote Control-FFRE153WAE - The Home Depot

The Frigidaire 15,000 Window-Mounted Room Air Conditioner is designed to cool up to 850 sq. ft. and keep large rooms comfortable. Features 3 different fan speeds for cooling. Six-way air direction evenly
www.homedepot.com
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It can get to single digits, but not too often.
The area is 17ft long. 8ft wide and 6.5ft tall
 
TreeFiddy350 said:
So we are thinking a 1 ton mini split should do the trick?
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It might but it would be right on the edge when you have really hot days outside. If it was me I would definitely go with a 1.5 ton because I know me and I will add something that makes more heat down the road like side lighting in my case. Also if getting a non Mitsubishi unit it could be a little over rated, at least I think my Midea's are. I had a 3 ton Mitsubishi that would easily do what these 4 ton Midea's do when it's hot outside, the Midea's seem to drop off pretty hard when it's above 90F outside. In hindsight I shoulda went with a 5 ton Midea or just boned up for the Mitsubishi Hindsight being 20/20 and all....

Last thing I wanna do is tell you that you will be good with 1 ton and have your temp creeping when it's hot outside.
 
The 3 ton Mitsubishi I had was easily keeping up with a 12kW (SE HPS) basement room that had a CO2 generator and a dehumidifier that ran most of the time (higher RH% in Missouri). The 4 ton Midea has a hard time keeping up with 10kW and a CO2 generator and the dehu only runs when the lights are off (dry here in Colorado).
 
Renfro said:
It might but it would be right on the edge when you have really hot days outside. If it was me I would definitely go with a 1.5 ton because I know me and I will add something that makes more heat down the road like side lighting in my case. Also if getting a non Mitsubishi unit it could be a little over rated, at least I think my Midea's are. I had a 3 ton Mitsubishi that would easily do what these 4 ton Midea's do when it's hot outside, the Midea's seem to drop off pretty hard when it's above 90F outside. In hindsight I shoulda went with a 5 ton Midea or just boned up for the Mitsubishi Hindsight being 20/20 and all....

Last thing I wanna do is tell you that you will be good with 1 ton and have your temp creeping when it's hot outside.
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Again we are talking a < 2kw grow in a basement.... If the house has central air or even window units upstairs.....
 
Renfro said:
It might but it would be right on the edge when you have really hot days outside. If it was me I would definitely go with a 1.5 ton because I know me and I will add something that makes more heat down the road like side lighting in my case. Also if getting a non Mitsubishi unit it could be a little over rated, at least I think my Midea's are. I had a 3 ton Mitsubishi that would easily do what these 4 ton Midea's do when it's hot outside, the Midea's seem to drop off pretty hard when it's above 90F outside. In hindsight I shoulda went with a 5 ton Midea or just boned up for the Mitsubishi Hindsight being 20/20 and all....

Last thing I wanna do is tell you that you will be good with 1 ton and have your temp creeping when it's hot outside.
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Do you think this one should be decent? I saw it has an auto restart Incase a power issue.
it also has to be 5 degrees outside it says as the minimum. So I guess we’ll see aside from those two things, I wasn’t really sure what to look for.
Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing.

Advantage 3rd Gen 18,000 BTU 1.5 Ton Ductless Mini Split Air Conditioner and Heat Pump 230V/60Hz

www.homedepot.com

MRCOOL Advantage 3rd Gen 18,000 BTU 1.5 Ton Ductless Mini Split Air Conditioner and Heat Pump 230V/60Hz A-18-HP-230B - The Home Depot

Provide comfortable temperature to your home with the selection of this MRCOOL Advantage 3rd Gen Ductless Mini Split Air Conditioner and Heat Pump.
www.homedepot.com
 
JoeBlow5823 said:
What LED's are you running that draw 1283w each? Growing in a basement with LED you are likely to have more trouble keeping the room warm enough than cool enough.....
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I’m running two Rayonled GLM720 lights and the heat is insane! They are equivalent to 1100watt HIDs...
 
JoeBlow5823 said:
Whats the point of LED is they still put out crazy heat?
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Well for starters, a crappy LED will put out more heat than a quality one. So I only speak of higher quality LED in this post.

A good LED will put out some heat yeah, but not nearly as much as a HPS that lights the same canopy area. A quality LED will only put out about 60% of the heat that a HPS would (not including IR). HPS puts out like 60% of the energy emitted in the form of infrared (heats up surfaces it hits) where a quality LED puts out zero infrared. This means you need to run the room warmer to get the leaf surface temps for optimal growth rates. So yeah, they make less heat and you need to run warmer. It's a big savings in AC. Plus LED gets better canopy coverage and penetration as it's not a single point source. Light hitting the plant from multiple angles means we get far better penetration and more even light distribution.

The sun puts out about 55% of the light in IR. A HPS puts out about 60% IR. A quality LED puts out about 0% IR.

When we do the math on the cooling costs for a grow using LED we find that setting the thermostat about 5 degrees F warmer combined with the fact the lights are only drawing around 60% of the wattage and combined with the fact IR isn't heating up the room we are saving a lot more on energy for cooling than we saved on just running the light. Add up the savings and it's significant.

There is a place in growing for quality LED lights and HID. You have to do what works best in your situation.
 
Renfro said:
Well for starters, a crappy LED will put out more heat than a quality one. So I only speak of higher quality LED in this post.

A good LED will put out some heat yeah, but not nearly as much as a HPS that lights the same canopy area. A quality LED will only put out about 60% of the heat that a HPS would (not including IR). HPS puts out like 60% of the energy emitted in the form of infrared (heats up surfaces it hits) where a quality LED puts out zero infrared. This means you need to run the room warmer to get the leaf surface temps for optimal growth rates. So yeah, they make less heat and you need to run warmer. It's a big savings in AC. Plus LED gets better canopy coverage and penetration as it's not a single point source. Light hitting the plant from multiple angles means we get far better penetration and more even light distribution.

The sun puts out about 55% of the light in IR. A HPS puts out about 60% IR. A quality LED puts out about 0% IR.

When we do the math on the cooling costs for a grow using LED we find that setting the thermostat about 5 degrees F warmer combined with the fact the lights are only drawing around 60% of the wattage and combined with the fact IR isn't heating up the room we are saving a lot more on energy for cooling than we saved on just running the light. Add up the savings and it's significant.

There is a place in growing for quality LED lights and HID. You have to do what works best in your situation.
Click to expand...
I was more pointing to the idea that his leds are supposedly putting out "more heat and more light than a 1100w hps'" while only consuming 700w. Sad that some people still buy into the whole "equivalent to...." ratings.
 
Renfro said:
Well for starters, a crappy LED will put out more heat than a quality one. So I only speak of higher quality LED in this post.

A good LED will put out some heat yeah, but not nearly as much as a HPS that lights the same canopy area. A quality LED will only put out about 60% of the heat that a HPS would (not including IR). HPS puts out like 60% of the energy emitted in the form of infrared (heats up surfaces it hits) where a quality LED puts out zero infrared. This means you need to run the room warmer to get the leaf surface temps for optimal growth rates. So yeah, they make less heat and you need to run warmer. It's a big savings in AC. Plus LED gets better canopy coverage and penetration as it's not a single point source. Light hitting the plant from multiple angles means we get far better penetration and more even light distribution.

The sun puts out about 55% of the light in IR. A HPS puts out about 60% IR. A quality LED puts out about 0% IR.

When we do the math on the cooling costs for a grow using LED we find that setting the thermostat about 5 degrees F warmer combined with the fact the lights are only drawing around 60% of the wattage and combined with the fact IR isn't heating up the room we are saving a lot more on energy for cooling than we saved on just running the light. Add up the savings and it's significant.

There is a place in growing for quality LED lights and HID. You have to do what works best in your situation.
Click to expand...
With running led lights, if you keep the temps at 85 with co2, what would you make the night time temps be? I want to avoid the huge swings to prevent the PM
 
TreeFiddy350 said:
With running led lights, if you keep the temps at 85 with co2, what would you make the night time temps be? I want to avoid the huge swings to prevent the PM
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Honestly my rooms don't cool down much at all since they are on a flip and the AC units are also on the flip. The dehumidifier puts heat into the room while keeping the RH% between 45 and 50% so in the summer my lights out temps are typically in the mid 80's and in the winter upper 70's / lower 80's.
 
JoeBlow5823 said:
I was more pointing to the idea that his leds are supposedly putting out "more heat and more light than a 1100w hps'" while only consuming 700w. Sad that some people still buy into the whole "equivalent to...." ratings.
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You just like to see yourself type eh? Isn’t there a puny tent grow section,growing autos while running street lights you can go comment on since that’s your forte?
 
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