bob loblough
Active Member
im wondering this also. im gonna be pulling fruit in a couple daysalso should i cover the tub after each flush for about a week or can i just leave it in the light and let it do its thing each time
im wondering this also. im gonna be pulling fruit in a couple daysalso should i cover the tub after each flush for about a week or can i just leave it in the light and let it do its thing each time
im wondering this also. im gonna be pulling fruit in a couple days
The PC is in parenthesis because I'mma try and borrow one for $10, just for the first grow$0 Horse Manure
$1 Black Garbage Bag
$15 400 grams coir
$8 2 cups gypsum
$2 2 gallons water
$5 5 gallon bucket
$15 66 gallon tub
$70 pressure cooker ($10)
$8 6 quart jars
$4 4 lbs popcorn
$0 tyvex
$1 aluminum foil
$23 spores
**$152 ($92)
Because when you search Google Shopping the first page is full of multi hundred dollar one.What is it with this reluctance to own a pressure cooker? The PF people can use the 7 quart ones, I've seen them for as little as twenty bucks. And they do have other uses, you CAN actually cook with them. There is no better way to cook an articoke. Beans cook quickly, soups and stews have extra flavor and your potroast will turn out even more tender.
I've already ordered the Rye Berries to use. I do have a question though. When it's in the 66-quart tube, how do you put it into fruiting conditions? Do you have to put the 66 quart tub into like a 60 gallon fruiting chamber?Seems to me if you mix it with vermiculite you dilute the substrate and your flushes take a beating. I like corn because it works and you can find corn about anywhere. I have mixed corn and rye when I want a really fast run but you can do the same thing with a bit of malt extract or molassas in your corn cook. All it takes is an extra shake or two.
So in my situation, I layer the substrate in a 66-quart tub and put it in a garbage bag for 2 weeks. I start fruiting as soon as I put it in some light and start doing the misting and FAE? What would my stages be?Fruiting occurs:
1. when your -Co2 ppm goes down to less than 5000 ppm
2. when the mycelia is exposed to light
3. when you reduce the temperature to 74 to 78 degrees
The third condition is looking for perfect pin sets - you can cause those pin sets when you do all three things at the same time but you will do fine without a temperature change. Usually your substrate heats up as the mycelium decomposes it and when you give it fresh air it will cool on its own. I don't hold to the "fanning" method but it works.
I'm following this thread's tutorial completely. He layers it with a quart of myc then a layer of substrate. He's using the same tub I'm going to be making.I don't understand your "layering" Firstly, I think that you are putting all of your eggs in one basket so to speak - I would use a few smaller tubs, in a modular fashion - but others like one big jump.