Burn? Deficiency? Disease? Something else? +rep for help

DannyGreenEyes

Well-Known Member
Hi everyone. For those that don't know I'm an advanced newbie on his first grow trying my hardest to get to a point where I can flower. My girls are 9 weeks and 2 days old, so I'm a little past due, and they're getting big, so I have to get them into flower asap since I only have 8ft ceilings. I think I'm already going to have to use LST before I get them to harvest.

To catch everyone up.......

I'm growing 7 plants and have three HIDs. I use as many as I can at any given time depending on the temp, which relies heavily on the outside temp.

Day 1 - I mixed FFOF with bone & blood meal when I mixed my pots, I took some bad advice.
Week 1 thru 3 - I had minor nute burns for the first 3 1/2 weeks and my plants were pretty small for their age. Mostly tips turning brown.
Week 4 - The nute burns stopped just before week 4. I treated the roots with Mycorrhiza and fed them 1/3 teaspoon of FF Tiger Bloom to give them some K & some minor nutes.
Week 6 - Around week 6 the nute burns seemed to come back and I got a triple infestations. Spider Mites, Broad Mites & Fungus Gnats.
Week 7 - Week 7 I flushed and put them into bigger 10 gal containers and used FFHF to add the soil needed. I also treated with Mite X and released Lady Bugs. Only the Broad Mites survived. 5 days later I treated with Neem Oil.
Week 8 - Treated with a second type of Neem Oil. The minor nute burns continued. Someone suggested that it may be a deficiency so I again fed 3 of my plants with 1/3 teaspoon of FF Tiger Bloom.

That brings me to today. I haven't seen any more White Mite adults, but I looked last night with a microscope and saw eggs on my leaves. I had read on a trusted entomology site that petroleum kills mite eggs so I went out and bought All Seasons Oil Spray by Bonide (98% petroleum oil) today and was getting ready to treat. The directions warn not to use on a plant that's dry.

I pulled out my Blueberry 1 and picked off the lady bugs and noticed that what seems to be minor nute burns has continued. The Blueberry 1 is one of the plants I fed a few days ago.

She needs to be watered before I can test the All Seasons Oil Spray on one of her leaves. So I have to get this sorted before I get to killing the mite eggs. And tommorow will be 5 days since the last treatment so I expect some of those eggs to hatch at any time.

So I started with very hot soil, then I treated roots so they're bigger and more developed than average at this point, and they're also able to absorb more than roots of a similar size. I flushed and added a more mild soil when I transplanted to a 10 gal., and then I fed again and nothing has slowed, accelerated, or changed these minor nute burns in any way.

The question is, are these nute burns, a nute deficiencies, or did they catch some kind of disease?

All of them are doing similar things. I pH my water at 6.3 and the soils at 7.0, but I haven't checked it since the transplant. I haven't had any distilled water to use in order to test it. But nothing seemed to change after the transplant except her growth has accelerated a little. She was growing a half inch per day. Today she's 28" and on the 6th (11 days ago) she was 21"

Also the damaged had been contained to the lower leaves till recently. I saw some brown leaf tips toward the top of the plant today.

I need to know what's going on before I water so I know wether to feed more heavily, or to not feed at all.

She was also the one most directly in front of a strong oscillating fan, not sure if that matters. And I keep the temp around 80.

I did my best to leave any Broad Mite damaged leaves out of the pictures.

Does anyone have any idea what's going on?

+rep for help
 

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the75bag

Active Member
looks like you should give it about 2 gal of water and not give it food for a week or so and than start it on some bugs
 

DannyGreenEyes

Well-Known Member
Thanks for your help +rep

I gotta start in on the bugs tonight while they're still eggs. That will make it easier for me to whipe out the ones that survive.

I gave her a gallon of water with no nutes because I hadn't gotten an answer.

The important thing..... Burns right? Because she was getting burned before I fed her. And her burns didn't get worse after I fed her.
 

DannyGreenEyes

Well-Known Member
You PH your water after you add nutes?
Are your leaves crispy-like? Are they hard and brittle?

Its definitely nute burn, because that clawing is a dead give away.
Thanks for your help. +rep

Yeah, I pH'd the water after adding the nutes. But I only fed them twice. Once at week 4 and a half, and a few days ago. And each time it was only 1/3 teaspoon of FF Tiger Bloom.

The areas that are turning brown are real crispy. The green older leaves are corse and can break if bent too far (the leaves). And the lower leaves are the worst off. I guess you can call the lower green older leaves brittle. And when I transplanted I found a few dead leaves hanging under the canopy real low on the plant. I thought they just weren't getting any light.

These pics are of leaves that I clipped on 12-29 from the Opium 1. Beleive it or not, it was before I fed them. I can't remember if she was one of the three that I just fed, but they were all pretty much doing similar stuff.

The pics of the clones were taken on 1-13. I also treated them with Mycorhizza, and I put them in Ferti-Lome soil, which I was told is very, very mild. And I don't understand the 2 that look like they have a N deficiency.

What do I have to do, find soil with no nutes at all?

I've heard the term clawing used before but don't know what it means. Can you explain?

I flushed the FFOF that was a little hot, and when I transplanted I used FFHF. I'm over my head here as to what to do.

I don't know if you've ever used Mycorrhiza before, but lets say that your girls all of a sudden grew monster roots that absorbed more of everything than normal. She's getting burned. You flush the soil & move her to a bigger pot using soil that's more mild to fill in the needed soil and she's still getting burned. What's your next move?
 

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IceWaterBong87

Well-Known Member
(talkin about the pics above this post)

the 2 cut leaves look like magnesium def.

bottom row 1st pic phosporous def

definately get ur run off waters ph at 6.5


id say DONT add epson salts for magnesium//bat guano or steam bone meal for phosporous until uve fixed the ph n see if it continues after a week
 

Yaboii

Active Member
FFOF comes pretty hotttt. Looks like you just need to flush a bit, plant looks good though!
 

stelthy

Well-Known Member
I say its nuit burn, flush your ladies for a week with just ph balanced water (yellow, ph reading) then make sure you set your ph mix up your nuits at 10% less than what is stated for each one, dont ad nuits to your spray, when you mist just ph balanced water, and make sure your lights arent to close, if lights are to close and temps are to high, the leaves will dry and go brittle, and both light burn and nuit burn can leave brown spots on your plants leaves hope this helps - stelthy :)
 

DannyGreenEyes

Well-Known Member
(talkin about the pics above this post)

the 2 cut leaves look like magnesium def.

bottom row 1st pic phosporous def

definately get ur run off waters ph at 6.5


id say DONT add epson salts for magnesium//bat guano or steam bone meal for phosporous until uve fixed the ph n see if it continues after a week
Thanks for the help. +rep

It was definately defiencies. I had to take them out of the closet yesterday to treat for mites and I can't beleive how many leaves I lost. Felt like crying.

I had multiple deficiencies, the 3 I had fed weren't as bad as the other 4, that's how I figured out it was deficiencies and not nute burns.

So I fed the other 4 today. 1 table spoon of fish emulsion fert (nasty stuff) and 1 teaspoon of Tiger Bloom added to a gal of water. That was half doses, I only did half doses just in case I'm wrong, but I don't think I am. I'll probably have to feed again soon though.

Messed up on the first one I fed today and forgot to pH after adding ferts. I'm sure I'll have some pH fluctuation issues with that one, but too late to fix it now. The other 3 needed about a level table spoon of baking soda to get the pH back to about 6.3.

I can't beleive these plants already sucked all the nutes out of the FFHF that I used when I transplanted them. They have monster roots and I think I'm gonna have to feed them every other watering at full strength. I'll know for sure in a couple of days when I see how they respond to this feeding.
 

DannyGreenEyes

Well-Known Member
mate u keep saying 1/3 not sure if u got a ec,cf or ppm reader. shud get one to have more control of ur feeding.
I thought PPMs were used to test the salt content in the water.

All I have is a pH tester since I'm in soil. I just go by the directions on the ferts bottles to feed.

1/3 teaspoon is about 1/6 the strength that the Tiger Bloom suggests.

But I'm pretty sure they were nute deficiencies. I had leaves that dried up & turned an orange or rust color. Other leaves had brownish spots, other leaves had MG or Calcium deficiencies with those weird looking brown spots between the veins. It was a mess. I'd post the pics, but there are way too many to post.
 

Freda Felcher

Well-Known Member
I thought PPMs were used to test the salt content in the water.

All I have is a pH tester since I'm in soil. I just go by the directions on the ferts bottles to feed.

1/3 teaspoon is about 1/6 the strength that the Tiger Bloom suggests.

But I'm pretty sure they were nute deficiencies. I had leaves that dried up & turned an orange or rust color. Other leaves had brownish spots, other leaves had MG or Calcium deficiencies with those weird looking brown spots between the veins. It was a mess. I'd post the pics, but there are way too many to post.
PPM is the measurement of how much dissolved minerals you have in your water, before and after adding nutes. It basically tells you how strong your nute solution is so you don't under feed or overfeed and burn them. I recommend using both a PH meter and a PPM meter to stay dialed in with the nutes. I just started using both not too long ago and it has helped me out so much!
 

DannyGreenEyes

Well-Known Member
PPM is the measurement of how much dissolved minerals you have in your water, before and after adding nutes. It basically tells you how strong your nute solution is so you don't under feed or overfeed and burn them. I recommend using both a PH meter and a PPM meter to stay dialed in with the nutes. I just started using both not too long ago and it has helped me out so much!
Thanks for your help, but can't afford anything else till I start selling some clones. I'll try to get one as soon as I can.

I've been using tap water for a week because my car broke down, but it's fixed now and I have them back on bottled water. Shouldn't be any nutes in the bottled water. But I'll double check it as soon as I can get a PPM.

Thanks. +rep
 
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