Burn or deficiency

Indy73

Indy73

Active Member
3 black jack autos approximately 4 weeks
1 fortune cookies auto approximate 5 weeks
3 gal ffhf and ffof with perlite mix
2led lights 420 actual watts
3x3 tent
Been watering the black jacks with plain PhD water
Just started feeding the future cookies tiger bloom big bloom and molasses

Seeing browning on tips n edges any have an idea of what I’m doing wrong
 

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Indy73

Indy73

Active Member
Maybe 18-24 inches I was thinking that but the brown leaves r on the bottom not the top. The man at the store think they r hungry n are ready to be fed
 
CheGueVapo

CheGueVapo

Well-Known Member
I made my plain Philosophiae Doctor in "water", summa cum laude... but i have to clue regarding the matter.... except one... you mean pH, do you? :rolleyes:

Well i not only want to joke aroung... i have a clue. You use bag-pots for enhanced air-ventilation and the pots look pretty dry.... it looks like you only give a little water... did you water the hole soil to allow the roots to spread the hole medium?

How much you water, and how much is the soil per pot?

Also in the vegetation phase, the plants need higher relative humidity, their water rentention capacity is still low.

This looks to me like the leaves burned and the roots have no place to look for the needed water.
 
Indy73

Indy73

Active Member
CheGueVapo said:
I made my plain Philosophiae Doctor in "water", summa cum laude... but i have to clue regarding the matter.... except one... you mean pH, do you? :rolleyes:

Well i not only want to joke aroung... i have a clue. You use bag-pots for enhanced air-ventilation and the pots look pretty dry.... it looks like you only give a little water... did you water the hole soil to allow the roots to spread the hole medium?

How much you water, and how much is the soil per pot?

Also in the vegetation phase, the plants need higher relative humidity, their water rentention capacity is still low.

This looks to me like the leaves burned and the roots have no place to look for the needed water.
Click to expand...
Yea I guess I was trying not to over water n when I water the edges it leakes on the sides
 
Indy73

Indy73

Active Member
CheGueVapo said:
I made my plain Philosophiae Doctor in "water", summa cum laude... but i have to clue regarding the matter.... except one... you mean pH, do you? :rolleyes:

Well i not only want to joke aroung... i have a clue. You use bag-pots for enhanced air-ventilation and the pots look pretty dry.... it looks like you only give a little water... did you water the hole soil to allow the roots to spread the hole medium?

How much you water, and how much is the soil per pot?

Also in the vegetation phase, the plants need higher relative humidity, their water rentention capacity is still low.

This looks to me like the leaves burned and the roots have no place to look for the needed water.
Click to expand...
N how does the leaves burn if I haven’t added any nutes yet
 
CheGueVapo

CheGueVapo

Well-Known Member
3 gals are 13,6l soil....
My soil takes 1l of water per 5l of soil to be completely watered... so yours should take around 2,5l each watering.


Indy73 said:
I was trying not to over water n when I water the edges it leakes on the sides
Click to expand...
ok, but you not only gave a small spill each day, like for example basilcum likes it, very much.

We should water the soil completely, without overwatering.
Wateringstrategy is the most beginners problem.... i had it too, watered too early.... then I experienced watering too late on high intensities. It wont get easier :D

You could still lay a trivet beneath so the water can be absorbed bottom, without draining off in the room
 
CheGueVapo

CheGueVapo

Well-Known Member
Indy73 said:
N how does the leaves burn if I haven’t added any nutes yet
Click to expand...
Because of the 420W light hitting the leave that wants to split hydrogene from the water to gain energy.... nutrients is only the substance the plant need to invest the energy. But the energy comes from the light, not from the nutrient, so the light burn when there is no water.

When the plant is low on water, what should it do against the energy radiating in.... the evaporation cools... its a physical effect.... same than sweating. Without the evapration chill and without water for the chemical absorption, it gets absorbed as heat....

heating without cooling leads to burns.

Nutrient leave burns are more a "chlorosis". Its a different cause (salinity). But this is drought stress symptom... in a phase where it's sensitive and cannot good withstand drought stress...

In veg we keep it humid and dont pressure with drought stress in the soil or air.
You could check with a tensiometer. It shows you what pressure the soil has. Should be from wet ~40mPa up to 150mPa (milliepascal).... when it gets higher the plants hardly can access anymore water, so you need to water. The easy way is to simply lift the pots and remember the empty-weight.... In late floweing those tensiometers can easily show high values and still the plants are able to hold back water on low light intensities... not for high intensities. They need water. Its the fuel for harvesting the light energy! It does not work without!
 
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Indy73

Indy73

Active Member
Ok so by trying not to overwater I’ve been under watering them. ‍♀. The fortune cookies auto has started to flower about a two weeks ago n it does seem kinda small. Will it be able to bounce back
 
CheGueVapo

CheGueVapo

Well-Known Member
The best way to start is
1. find out when the pots drain, how much water they can hold.
2. find out when exactly the pots run empty.

Thats all you need to know.

It is important to not water again when the pot still has enough water for another day.... and not water to late, when they run empty the day before today... ;)

You need to get a feeling about how much water your plants consume in the phases.

Lifting them up, checking the weight is the easy way.
Tensiometers are the precise way.

Some day, you neither need both, you just know it from your experience... everyone most grow through this.

Another thing is... pretty much nothing happend so far....this plant can triple that hole mass in few days... so just continue... it's not a"damage". This is weed.... not an orchid! :rolleyes: It's not "dying" or so.... it doesn't mind.... in a few weeks it may drop these leave for good either way :D
 
Indy73

Indy73

Active Member
CheGueVapo said:
The best way to start is
1. find out when the pots drain, how much water they can hold.
2. find out when exactly the pots run empty.

Thats all you need to know.

It is important to not water again when the pot still has enough water for another day.... and not water to late, when they run empty the day before today... ;)

You need to get a feeling about how much water your plants consume in the phases.

Lifting them up, checking the weight is the easy way.
Tensiometers are the precise way.

Some day, you neither need both, you just know it from your experience... everyone most grow through this.

Another thing is... pretty much nothing happend so far....this plant can triple that hole mass in few days... so just continue... it's not a"damage". This is weed.... not an orchid! :rolleyes: It's not "dying" or so.... it doesn't mind.... in a few weeks it may drop these leave for good either way :D
Click to expand...
CheGueVapo said:
The best way to start is
1. find out when the pots drain, how much water they can hold.
2. find out when exactly the pots run empty.

Thats all you need to know.

It is important to not water again when the pot still has enough water for another day.... and not water to late, when they run empty the day before today... ;)

You need to get a feeling about how much water your plants consume in the phases.

Lifting them up, checking the weight is the easy way.
Tensiometers are the precise way.

Some day, you neither need both, you just know it from your experience... everyone most grow through this.

Another thing is... pretty much nothing happend so far....this plant can triple that hole mass in few days... so just continue... it's not a"damage". This is weed.... not an orchid! :rolleyes: It's not "dying" or so.... it doesn't mind.... in a few weeks it may drop these leave for good either way :D
Click to expand...
The hardest part is when I water everything going directly to the sides.
Ok so should I continue with plain water
 
CheGueVapo

CheGueVapo

Well-Known Member
I doubt at this state they sucked the nuts of 3 gal soil dry, even if it was the weakest light mix.... cant imagine that, but when you run organic, its definetly time to start adding nutes, because they need longer to release. When there was to much drought stress in the veg, then the root-zone is high likely under developed.... what makes them harder to access nutes from the soil... for sure.

Give the plants less light stress, and when watering with feed, fill the pot wet until drain once, so they get time to develop more roots before you switch to flowering.
Indy73 said:
The hardest part is when I water everything going directly to the sides.
Click to expand...
Yes, righty... because the soil is totally dry outside at the bag..... it doesnt hold the water and so it runs away. It need to soak first. Hmmm i have no experience with these bags... how to do that... maybe someone else is experienced with that.

But to me this is the thing here.... the roots find some water in the middle where the soil soaks it, but this way it hardly grows the hole soil, the outside seems dried out deadzone for the roots. No clue.

I dont know these.... i use ceramique pots.... they ventilate good too.... they are just HEAVY.... 5kg per pot (only the pot) is not everybodies darling ;)
 
Indy73

Indy73

Active Member
CheGueVapo said:
I doubt at this state they sucked the nuts of 3 gal soil dry, even if it was the weakest light mix.... cant imagine that, but when you run organic, its definetly time to start adding nutes, because they need longer to release. When there was to much drought stress in the veg, then the root-zone is high likely under developed.... what makes them harder to access nutes from the soil... for sure.

Give the plants less light stress, and when watering with feed, fill the pot wet until drain once, so they get time to develop more roots before you switch to flowering.

Yes, righty... because the soil is totally dry outside at the bag..... it doesnt hold the water and so it runs away. It need to soak first. Hmmm i have no experience with these bags... how to do that... maybe someone else is experienced with that.

But to me this is the thing here.... the roots find some water in the middle where the soil soaks it, but this way it hardly grows the hole soil, the outside seems dried out deadzone for the roots. No clue.

I dont know these.... i use ceramique pots.... they ventilate good too.... they are just HEAVY.... 5kg per pot (only the pot) is not everybodies darling ;)
Click to expand...
Wen u say less light stress does that mean I should raise the lights
 
Indy73

Indy73

Active Member
CheGueVapo said:
I doubt at this state they sucked the nuts of 3 gal soil dry, even if it was the weakest light mix.... cant imagine that, but when you run organic, its definetly time to start adding nutes, because they need longer to release. When there was to much drought stress in the veg, then the root-zone is high likely under developed.... what makes them harder to access nutes from the soil... for sure.

Give the plants less light stress, and when watering with feed, fill the pot wet until drain once, so they get time to develop more roots before you switch to flowering.

Yes, righty... because the soil is totally dry outside at the bag..... it doesnt hold the water and so it runs away. It need to soak first. Hmmm i have no experience with these bags... how to do that... maybe someone else is experienced with that.

But to me this is the thing here.... the roots find some water in the middle where the soil soaks it, but this way it hardly grows the hole soil, the outside seems dried out deadzone for the roots. No clue.

I dont know these.... i use ceramique pots.... they ventilate good too.... they are just HEAVY.... 5kg per pot (only the pot) is not everybodies darling ;)
Click to expand...
And by them being autos will this reduce my yield at all
 
CheGueVapo

CheGueVapo

Well-Known Member
No when the roots potentially underdeveloped and you have in mind that they need nudes... you reduce the lights for a few days.
So the leaves do not grow so fast, dont need so much water, and dont need so much nutes, but get time to grow roots first!

When you want to give more light you need the root system first :)

One thing after another! With whats occuring ATM at your grow i would dim down to get thes ladies fixed first by themselves.... then increase intensity again and think about flowering, when they can handle that growth rates.

Is it 5 weeks veg from seed already!? My feeling is should be farer and better progressing.
 
CheGueVapo

CheGueVapo

Well-Known Member
Ah autos, i overread that. So you have time not under control. :/
Wellstart with nutes and improve watering strategy with the bags...

Nevermind then dont reduce the light with autos! You dont have the time for fixing them up first.... you must push through :)

Autos...
Pouche bags pots...

Im sorry i cant really help you with these... i dont like autos. I like manuals. Manual is easier for me. I push the plant, not vice versa.... i never liked the concept of the ruderalis indoors. Anything I cannot control, i dont like it.... ;)

I hope you bring these to success, all the best!

Edit:lol btw i started with Autos, the time they hyped new, myself having no experience at all, everyone told me how useless these are indoor wasting so much light and how great they are outdoors in climates with less light for early harvesting in summer, i rejected long time but finally i realised they were right, in every point. I realised non-autos have the same yield with only 12 hours light and they forgive mistakes better, you as a grower are in control, you decide when the flowerign phas ebegins, you can prepare the plant perfectly, no hurry. Autos are not very beginner friendly, they leave no control... you must adapt the system in all aspects to the plant. And the biggest problem: You dont learn! But how you supposed to adapt the system for the plant, when you not learned what the frack is going on with physiology.... They require a lot of skill to satisfy their need in the given time. Normal feminized works best for me, yielding higher than i ever did with Auto Mazar or Think Different from Dutch passion, that time with significantly higher energy bill. I dont know what it is that people love in Autos, maybe it's because of the exact opposite promises the breeders make...... best in yield, easy to grow, you cant interupt the dark phase, because it has none....... yayaya.... marketing bs.... "you must have it"... for what reason? nobody knows ;) Is it better indoors, i dont think so, does it yield higher, i dont think so, does it need more electricity? absolutely. So i left them finaly and dont regret it one sec!
 
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Indy73

Indy73

Active Member
CheGueVapo said:
No when the roots potentially underdeveloped and you have in mind that they need nudes... you reduce the lights for a few days.
So the leaves do not grow so fast, dont need so much water, and dont need so much nutes, but get time to grow roots first!
Yea I agree I cant believe I’m already messing up this grow. I overwatered last grow so wanted to make sure not to this time around.
When you want to give more light you need the root system first :)

One thing after another! With whats occuring ATM at your grow i would dim down to get thes ladies fixed first by themselves.... then increase intensity again and think about flowering, when they can handle that growth rates.

Is it 5 weeks veg from seed already!? My feeling is should be farer and better progressing.
Click to expand...
 
Indy73

Indy73

Active Member
CheGueVapo said:
Ah autos, i overread that. So you have time not under control. :/
Wellstart with nutes and improve watering strategy with the bags...

Nevermind then dont reduce the light with autos! You dont have the time for fixing them up first.... you must push through :)

Autos...
Pouche bags pots...

Im sorry i cant really help you with these... i dont like autos. I like manuals. Manual is easier for me. I push the plant, not vice versa.... i never liked the concept of the ruderalis indoors. Anything I cannot control, i dont like it.... ;)

I hope you bring these to success, all the best!
Click to expand...
Ok since their autos do this reduce their chances of recovery
 
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