Cal mag def/ph/rust spot fungus? Ideas?

Budley Doright

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
I don't use it either and always showed signs of deficiency, if I added more cal/mag it got worse. An old hydro grower told me to try an amino supplement and all the blotching went away. There was lots in my water but it was being locked out.
 
Lucky Luke

Lucky Luke

Well-Known Member
chemphlegm said:
I use spring water, maybe makes the difference I dunno. I watched my neighbor use it to, on all of his plants he was told were calmag deficient, I watched him dose per instruction on the bottle and every plant fed it to suffered. Calcium toxicity is easy to achieve, google it many pics are found. I dont use, I have some, but dont need it. My soils are built correctly needing no additional additives, plus my spring water, directly drawn from under the the grow room likely compliments my nutritional feeding program.

easy to imagine those with little calcium in their water, poor soil builds, municipal or RO water do benefit from completing the feed with cal/mag. I didnt use it in hydro and dont use it in soil, got the best plants ever with nary a signs of deficiency.
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yea, each water supply is different. Different PH's to.

I use rain water. There is no 'town" water where i am. PH is 6.6 and even though im using a concrete water tank which would leach some calcium i still need to add cal/mag.
I also add cal/mag to my gorilla plot grows even though i amend the holes with some Dolomite lime.
I dont feed allot of chemicals either..so that may be something as well.

May also be strain related. Last...lots of years..lol, ive been growing the same 'ish Sativa strain (my bastardized version of Australian Blue).
.Next year will be the first time growing a few different strains as ive never felt comfortable enough buying seed stock. But have this year.
 
King Daddy G

King Daddy G

Member
chemphlegm said:
I use spring water, maybe makes the difference I dunno. I watched my neighbor use it to, on all of his plants he was told were calmag deficient, I watched him dose per instruction on the bottle and every plant fed it to suffered. Calcium toxicity is easy to achieve, google it many pics are found. I dont use, I have some, but dont need it. My soils are built correctly needing no additional additives, plus my spring water, directly drawn from under the the grow room likely compliments my nutritional feeding program.

easy to imagine those with little calcium in their water, poor soil builds, municipal or RO water do benefit from completing the feed with cal/mag. I didnt use it in hydro and dont use it in soil, got the best plants ever with nary a signs of deficiency.
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Any ideas I got a clone almost a foot tall leaves all look amazing my soil and nutes can't be that bad? Prob as they grow they eat monster amounts of nutes? It is a chemdawg are they that hard to grow I heard they are calcium magnesium hogs .. not sure what is about them why it says online they are harder to grow ..
 
chemphlegm

chemphlegm

Well-Known Member
King Daddy G said:
Any ideas I got a clone almost a foot tall leaves all look amazing my soil and nutes can't be that bad? Prob as they grow they eat monster amounts of nutes? It is a chemdawg are they that hard to grow I heard they are calcium magnesium hogs .. not sure what is about them why it says online they are harder to grow ..
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I've grown every cannabis cup winner from every country since and hundreds more from popular breeders. I never found one plant more difficult to grow than another. Every plant here gets treated exactly the same. I know nothing of magnesium/calcium hogs, I feed my soil .....the plants know what they need, where and when to get it. I've never over loaded to see how much chem salts I can jam into them, maybe chemdog actually can be jammed up with chems, maybe it gets better who knows, mine are the best I've ever had though. NO molds, NO mites, NO deaths, NO issues at all.
 
King Daddy G

King Daddy G

Member
Yea not sure why the leaves dry up get all crunchy at the end just pretty much dead to fall off eventually the calcium taking awhile to feed the plant has not had a supply for awhile takes time?
 
King Daddy G

King Daddy G

Member
chemphlegm said:
I've grown every cannabis cup winner from every country since and hundreds more from popular breeders. I never found one plant more difficult to grow than another. Every plant here gets treated exactly the same. I know nothing of magnesium/calcium hogs, I feed my soil .....the plants know what they need, where and when to get it. I've never over loaded to see how much chem salts I can jam into them, maybe chemdog actually can be jammed up with chems, maybe it gets better who knows, mine are the best I've ever had though. NO molds, NO mites, NO deaths, NO issues at all.
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The dolomite is kicking in by now seems like a slow down on bad leaves overall about a foot of new growth and nice fans .. cpl very minor spots few leaves not many showing a cpl specks of damage nothing major I have been using about a tsp of lime every other watering or soo and using a calcium magnesium spray foliar on the effected leaves tops bottoms .. I made a calcium mix boiling the egg shells and sitting overnight like 6 full shells in a cpl dozen ounces of water and a nice shot of epsoms diluted after boiling was done should be getting close she seems very hungry on these cpl ferts .. the spray leaves the leaves nice and shiny .. and the mh seems to be working better now def. was not getting enough cal mag ..
 
theslipperbandit

theslipperbandit

Well-Known Member
Dr. Who said:
Not really so well as "fast"..Best to use a liquid..

When you use eggshells...Grind them to a dust after drying them completely....Then soak. I would use some of that.

What are you in? Soil? What soil?
Feed what? How much? How often?
Do you pH the ingoing?
Skip the Hydrogen Peroxide thing!!



STFW?

NOT a "root problem" Plant isn't drooping or dying off....
He could be locking Ca, in what and how he mix's his feed.
Could be a starting pH thing but, doesn't quite look it....Same for a build up...BUT, it could be a bit of a combination of these.
Depends on how he answers, to get a clearer picture on those.
It could be as simple as the soil isn't charged with enough Ca....(back to the beginning)
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I'd suggest perhaps foliar feeding it at lights out to get a quick dose whilst the stomachs open then as u say add Calmag
 
King Daddy G

King Daddy G

Member
Dr. Who said:
Thanks.
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My one plant has lighter colored green leaves and leaves are still acting up a lil I added more nutes sprays cpl days later does not seem to be as healthy as the other ones .. the other plants are looking good what could the issue be def a cal mag for sure but why is one still looking iffy .. sucks? Thanks. PH is dead on. Temps. Moisture. Everything on check.
 
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
King Daddy G said:
My one plant has lighter colored green leaves and leaves are still acting up a lil I added more nutes sprays cpl days later does not seem to be as healthy as the other ones .. the other plants are looking good what could the issue be def a cal mag for sure but why is one still looking iffy .. sucks? Thanks. PH is dead on. Temps. Moisture. Everything on check.
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Hard to say - can't "see" it.....Sometimes it's hard in pictures too....

Yet "light" colored leaves without "seeing" it.....makes me want to say slight N def.....Tickle the N up a bit. I'm not a big foliar kinda guy...I might look to use a UREA based N for foliar (best absorbed by leaf application form of N) applications to boost minor N def. If you want to work the leaves back fast..A 1.5 to 2 % N foliar is were I would start.

Some plants will withstand as high as a 3% solution....."I" would not go that high......start at the nice safe 1.5% and apply at 3-5 day intervals till leaves are where you want them. Be sure to tickle the N up in your feed by a single % point too - I would not use Urea based N for that!
 
King Daddy G

King Daddy G

Member
Dr. Who said:
Hard to say - can't "see" it.....Sometimes it's hard in pictures too....

Yet "light" colored leaves without "seeing" it.....makes me want to say slight N def.....Tickle the N up a bit. I'm not a big foliar kinda guy...I might look to use a UREA based N for foliar (best absorbed by leaf application form of N) applications to boost minor N def. If you want to work the leaves back fast..A 1.5 to 2 % N foliar is were I would start.

Some plants will withstand as high as a 3% solution....."I" would not go that high......start at the nice safe 1.5% and apply at 3-5 day intervals till leaves are where you want them. Be sure to tickle the N up in your feed by a single % point too - I would not use Urea based N for that!
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No idea why the other plants are solid and this one is being a pain? I feed them the same the two in veg are the same size the healthy one is a bit bigger ..
 
greg nr

greg nr

Well-Known Member
Hey, quick question on cal mag def's. Is it a good idea to foliar feed them until the next watering? Like the good dr said, I don't want to soak the roots by watering before they need it, but I am seeing some ca def in some of the leaves (week 4 of flower bit its a long flowering pheno).
 
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
greg nr said:
Hey, quick question on cal mag def's. Is it a good idea to foliar feed them until the next watering? Like the good dr said, I don't want to soak the roots by watering before they need it, but I am seeing some ca def in some of the leaves (week 4 of flower bit its a long flowering pheno).
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I would simply do the watering.....Not a big fan of foliar and Ca. No foliar in bloom anyway....Week 4 is too far in!

I might suspect that you may have a pH issue starting.....Other then the look of Ca def. Do you see any yellowing of the lower fans? Is it moving out and up the plant?

Post up a pic of the area effected and the plant and it'll be easy to tell and give a proper answer.
 
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