Calcium deficiency in promix

propertyoftheUS

propertyoftheUS

Well-Known Member
Not sure wtf to do to fix. Using Jack's classic with calmag plus in promix bx.IMG_20180610_093557.jpg IMG_20180610_093608.jpg I've been feeding at 6.2 and the deficiency has progressed. I've added dolomite lime, flushed the medium, and watered with calmag plus at 5.8. Still the deficiency is getting worse. Tried foliar feeding with Epsom salt with no results. I am used to outdoor grows and this is my first indoor grow in about 15 years. Any help would be greatly appreciatedIMG_20180610_093557.jpg IMG_20180610_093608.jpg IMG_20180610_093444.jpg
 
HarryCooter

HarryCooter

Well-Known Member
I think theres more to this than a calcium deficiency. My initial guess is a root issue like rot by the looks of the plants. Start checking off all the basics: what's your room temps, humidity, watering schedule, nutrient line?
 
B

bankheadstoner

Active Member
That's why I only use fox farm . I know alot of people think you don't need brand name soils but using other soils cause problems like this . I actually considered using promix months ago because 35$ for 2.5cubicft is a deal but after doing research I noticed people say deficiencies are common using promix and alot other brands . And I actually have read it draw fungus gnats and other funguses. Fox farm only problem is you have to dlstarr with very light feedings because the soil is perfect as is . But anyway your plants have alot of issues if you ask me and it could be anything . I don't see signs if nutrient burn so that's good but also means something is lacking . If I was you I'll start a nutrient feed and boost to them up but go easy on nitrogen and maybe I would even try a pk booster but it's def issues with the soil ( it's trash). Other than that I do see some heat stress from the light being to close
 
propertyoftheUS

propertyoftheUS

Well-Known Member
HarryCooter said:
I think theres more to this than a calcium deficiency. My initial guess is a root issue like rot by the looks of the plants. Start checking off all the basics: what's your room temps, humidity, watering schedule, nutrient line?
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I figured it out..... Salt build up, I checked the ppms of the runoff and it came back at 800+ lol, that caused the pH of the medium to come outoat 5.6 watering with 7. So word to the wise, if you are supplementing calmag and u start having a calcium deficiency, it's probably your medium's pH being too low. I brought them to the bathtub and flushed for about ten minutes each and then top dressed with dolomite lime. I'll post back results in a couple days. Thanks for the replies.
 
propertyoftheUS

propertyoftheUS

Well-Known Member
Oh I am using Jack's classic, 1/4-1/2 tsp gallon. Ppm is around 250 so 800+ coming out has gotta be causing the low pH. Promix comes PhD to 6.2 so adding dolomite lime and the runoff is 5.4-5.6 something is array with salt build up
 
propertyoftheUS

propertyoftheUS

Well-Known Member
bankheadstoner said:
That's why I only use fox farm . I know alot of people think you don't need brand name soils but using other soils cause problems like this . I actually considered using promix months ago because 35$ for 2.5cubicft is a deal but after doing research I noticed people say deficiencies are common using promix and alot other brands . And I actually have read it draw fungus gnats and other funguses. Fox farm only problem is you have to dlstarr with very light feedings because the soil is perfect as is . But anyway your plants have alot of issues if you ask me and it could be anything . I don't see signs if nutrient burn so that's good but also means something is lacking . If I was you I'll start a nutrient feed and boost to them up but go easy on nitrogen and maybe I would even try a pk booster but it's def issues with the soil ( it's trash). Other than that I do see some heat stress from the light being to close
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Promix isn't soil, it's a soiless medium, sphagnum peat moss and perlite mostly
 
polishpollack

polishpollack

Well-Known Member
There's nothing wrong typically with Promix. FFOF soil has a lot of nutrients, Promix has some too. PropUS, how often are you feeding? I suspect it's too often and you are actually poisoning the plant.
Usually when people foliar feed this plant, they get bad results on that one too.
 
propertyoftheUS

propertyoftheUS

Well-Known Member
polishpollack said:
There's nothing wrong typically with Promix. FFOF soil has a lot of nutrients, Promix has some too. PropUS, how often are you feeding? I suspect it's too often and you are actually poisoning the plant.
Usually when people foliar feed this plant, they get bad results on that one too.
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I was feeding every three days, must not had enough runoff to flush old nutes out. I only foliar fed once when the deficiency showed up.
 
W

Wetdog

Well-Known Member
propertyoftheUS said:
Promix isn't soil, it's a soiless medium, sphagnum peat moss and perlite mostly
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I make my own mix and have for over 45 years now. My basic mix is pretty much promix (peat, perlite, lime).

For well over 30 years it was this mix and Jack's classic (just Peters back then). The growers who taught me the mix also used Peters and stressed using the lime because the Peters contained no Ca and was intended to be used with a limed mix. Plus the low pH of the peat of course. This was in 1972 and information was really scarce, even in print.

I do organics now, but the basic mix has not changed for me, just what is added after the basic mix is done.

Anyway, the amount of lime added to promix is so small the growers I know who use actual promix add their lime as if the promix contained none at all, @1cup/cf of mix. This has worked well for them and way better than using smaller amounts and trying to figure out how much is in the promix so that everything equals 1 cup. Adding lime as if there was none in the mix took care of the guesswork and issues right from the git go. They also increase the amount of perlite in the promix to ~40%. It's kinda light in that area too.

BTW, with the Peters I only fed once/week @~3/4 strength. I think you're over feeding and not watering enough for a decent runoff. With the Peters, watering till runoff is essential and a decent leaching might be in order now. BTW, I had the best results using the 'Blossom booster 10-30-20 for the entire grow. But, that's just me.

I would also get a water test on your tap water, if that's what you're using. Easy enough to find online from your water district.
HTH

Wet
 
B

bankheadstoner

Active Member
Wetdog said:
That is just flat, simply, WRONG. Water has, at best, a very temporary effect on the soils pH. Soil however has a huge effect on waters pH and will soon bring it to whatever the soils pH is.

Learning some basic soil chemistry might be helpful.

Wet
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When you adjust the pH there's more then one method of raising or lowering the pH but it's up to the grower to maintain the pH level. My soil has pH bluffer that maintain my pH at 6.8 but I don't know wtf you was trying to say but you lost me in you second sentence
 
W

Wetdog

Well-Known Member
bankheadstoner said:
When you adjust the pH there's more then one method of raising or lowering the pH but it's up to the grower to maintain the pH level. My soil has pH bluffer that maintain my pH at 6.8 but I don't know wtf you was trying to say but you lost me in you second sentence
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That the soils pH has a greater and lasting effect than any water/liquid.

Ok, your soil is buffered to 6.8. Say you water with a nute, tea, whatever with a pH of 4.5. That solution would very temporarly lower your pH, but the buffered soil would bring everything back to 6.8 in short order, likely within minutes.

Make sense now?

Wet
 
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