Calling All Noob Growers

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heyy riddle,
this is my LSTed MRS plant. since i started flowering iv been noticing a few discolored leaves ( like 2 or 3 every couple days) this morning i noticed like 10 that werent there at lights off last night. so im thinkn its goona start gettn worse. they get small rusty/brown spots along all the lateral veins, then they spread to the rest of the leaf, and twist and crumble after a couple days. i havent been "making it rain" since i transplanted cuz its a bitch taking down stairs when its that heavy ( wud rather hav less potential, then to drop it down stairs lol)
iv been feeding it 1 Tspoon FF grow big, 2 Tspoons of FF big bloom. feed twice, then once clear water. i dont think its nute burn, i did flush about 10-12 days ago. can you help me diagnose?
 
EdGreyfox said:
Well, it's harvest time for the remainder of the Opiums tomorrow morning, and I'm going to Tom Sawyer it. I've done all the harvesting myself up to now and have my sister/brother in law so anxious to be allowed to get involved that I'm going to get to sit back and supervise while they do all the work. :bigjoint:
I'm a bit disappointed with the grow in general, but I guess i can't complain much because I did better then a lot of people do on their first grow (i.e. I didn't lose a single plant and I actually got a harvest out of all of them). The blueberry grow continues to go really well, and the second set thats rotated into flowering is starting to put on a lot of growth, even the one that got nailed by the light. It still looks kind of funky since it's missing branches down one entire section, and is developing a definate lean to the opposite side, but I think she's going to recover enough to make it through flowering.

Riddle, got a question about the CMH's. Do they fit the standard 600w/400w HPS ballasts, or do you have to get some sort of a conversion socket for them? I know the MH bulbs I use are actually conversions that fit an HPS ballast, and that you can't just plug any MH into my ballasts and have them work (well, they might work, but the lights going to blow sooner and won't put out it's rated lumens).
Click to expand...

CMH has the same socket , yes but requires an old style magnetic ballast, will not work with a digital ballast (though I read there was one that was made for them but cost a bit) they work best with a magnetic ballast made for hps (not mh)
 
jumboSWISHER said:
heyy riddle,
this is my LSTed MRS plant. since i started flowering iv been noticing a few discolored leaves ( like 2 or 3 every couple days) this morning i noticed like 10 that werent there at lights off last night. so im thinkn its goona start gettn worse. they get small rusty/brown spots along all the lateral veins, then they spread to the rest of the leaf, and twist and crumble after a couple days. i havent been "making it rain" since i transplanted cuz its a bitch taking down stairs when its that heavy ( wud rather hav less potential, then to drop it down stairs lol)
iv been feeding it 1 Tspoon FF grow big, 2 Tspoons of FF big bloom. feed twice, then once clear water. i dont think its nute burn, i did flush about 10-12 days ago. can you help me diagnose?
Click to expand...

Looks like a lockout to me as it is showing as a phosphorus def and most likely a Cal def as well, I would flush em then wait a few days to see if the damage slows, then water with no nutes then a lighter feeding, like half what you were doing and I would only do the grow big every 3rd feeding
 
riddleme said:
CMH has the same socket , yes but requires an old style magnetic ballast, will not work with a digital ballast (though I read there was one that was made for them but cost a bit) they work best with a magnetic ballast made for hps (not mh)
Click to expand...


It would work that way. I have a magnetic ballast for my 400w veg light, but my 600w flowering light (which is where the CMH would do the most good) is digital.
 
Was just wondering if using this watering method is safe on younger plants? it wont overwhelm them will it?
 
des said:
Was just wondering if using this watering method is safe on younger plants? it wont overwhelm them will it?
Click to expand...

Have never tried it, I wait till after I do the first transplant when plant is 4 weeks old, when they are seedlings I baby em
 
Hey thanks for the reply, i just 'put them to sleep' while they were in their pots and after a few hours i actually transplanted them into the ground outside where they will now live. They are nearly 3 weeks old now so they should be fine. Just hope i dont get a big storm as it will probably wash them away :(
 
Well yippie, got a contract signed on a new house just in time for the Obama credit so there will be a new grow room getting set up and a crazy new grow comming soon, gonna be a bunch more experiments to watch for,,,,,,I'm Stoked!
 
riddleme said:
Well yippie, got a contract signed on a new house just in time for the Obama credit so there will be a new grow room getting set up and a crazy new grow comming soon, gonna be a bunch more experiments to watch for,,,,,,I'm Stoked!
Click to expand...
Congrats. I was gonna ask how the hunt was going. I thought about that while working on my fridge and thinking of CMH lights which reminded me of a new set-up from you coming.
 
hey guys, i read riddlemes technique and will be using it for sure. unfortunately, i only got MG soil, because thats all that was in my basement, and iam working with little to no $$$. Also the one nursey in my area had no Jacks Classic, and the Dynagro was 20$. However i got the Unsulfured Molasses, alll i got is 20$ and i wana save it for a real emergency. the good news, my grow site is this ridiculous clearing that gets tons of sunlight from 8am to about 5Pm, now my babies are just sproutin and im takin it slow in this delicate stage. but once i transplant to the bigger, permanet pots, ill be using the Rain technique. but i got a couple 1st time questions. do i only give them water in the sprouting stage? and when in the Veg stage, how will i know when its time to flower? is it something i do, or will the ladies do it own their own?? and do i use thed Rain technique all the way through both Veg and flower??
 
Moussa,

You must have bought one of the larger bottles of dyna grow, but no worries. You'll end up using it eventually anyway. You can order the Jacks classic online if you can't find it at one of your local store, but I'd order more then just that to help make the cost of shipping worthwhile.

Now, as to your other questions. Since your growing outdoors you aren't going to have any control over when they flower-that's completely a function of the hours of light they are receiving every day, and they aren't going to flower until there are enough hours of darkness to trigger the flowering response. For an indoor grow thats a week or two after you switch the lights to 12/12, but for an outdoor grow I'm guessing it's going to be more like August, with harvest somewhere around between the middle of September/October. It could be a bit earlier, it could be later- all depends on your local light conditions.

P.S. - The rain technique Riddle devised is really designed for indoor growing, and I'm not sure how effective it will be on an outdoor grow where the plant has other sources of water available. Your going to have to be very careful not to get the plants too much water, especially if you live in a moist climate where natural rain and heavy dews are common.

Watering is a very subjective thing. Your going to want to water the plant throughout it's life cycle, but how much and how often is going to vary. Since you're growing outside you're going to have to look at how often its raining, what other sources of water the plant has (i.e. nearby stream, underground water/high water table, etc), and adjust your watering around it. You also have to tailor the watering to the plant itself, since their water requirements increase with size as well as when they are flowering.
Just as a general rule of thumb you want to make sure the soil is moist but not sopping wet, and you want to keep it at that point as much as possible.
 
Moussa7/32 said:
hey guys, i read riddlemes technique and will be using it for sure. unfortunately, i only got MG soil, because thats all that was in my basement, and iam working with little to no $$$. Also the one nursey in my area had no Jacks Classic, and the Dynagro was 20$. However i got the Unsulfured Molasses, alll i got is 20$ and i wana save it for a real emergency. the good news, my grow site is this ridiculous clearing that gets tons of sunlight from 8am to about 5Pm, now my babies are just sproutin and im takin it slow in this delicate stage. but once i transplant to the bigger, permanet pots, ill be using the Rain technique. but i got a couple 1st time questions. do i only give them water in the sprouting stage? and when in the Veg stage, how will i know when its time to flower? is it something i do, or will the ladies do it own their own?? and do i use thed Rain technique all the way through both Veg and flower??
Click to expand...

Do Not make it rain on seedlings, Do Not make it rain in MG soil, if you do you will have problems as everytime you will release nutes that you have no control over

You should make it rain starting in the 4th week and then thru the whole grow, (yes both veg & flower)

and just a tip it is really hard to grow without the proper tools, being on a budget is one thing only having $20 will hurt you in the end
 
On the question of how early you can start making it rain- If you are like me and start from clones it's possible to start making it rain about 10-14 days after you have first transplanted your clone into it's permanent pot, but you wan't to go easy on it the first few times. The plants ability to wick up the moisture is directly tied to how developed it's root system is, as well as it's overall size, so a little 10" plant thats only had a week to put down roots isn't going to be able to handle as much as a larger, more developed plant will. One note though- by using this technique you are essentially tricking your plants into believing they are in a much wetter climate, and they will respond by sucking up water much faster then you thought possible, especially the moderate waterings that come in between "rains". It doesn't happen overnight, but after a few weeks you will notice some major differences in your plants water demands, as well as in their growth.

My two largest plants are requiring between 1 and 1 1/2 gallons of water every other day currently, and actually prefer to be given about 3/4 of a gallon daily with a once a week 3-4 gallon rain (I use 5 gallon pots). I have already discovered that I can't go past that two day mark without the plants wilting severely, and I'd estimate that there's a 50/50 chance that I will have to move up to daily waterings to keep them happy for the next 4 weeks before they are harvested. The set of plants two weeks behind them are in smaller pots (partner bought 3.5 gallons instead of 5 gallon), and I'm already needing to water those pretty much every day. As for my vegging plants, most of those now require water every 2-3 days, though the youngest of them may take as much as 5 days to wick up all the water from a rain.

Keep in mind, that everyone's grow is going to be slightly different. If Riddle and I were growing the same strains we would still have some difference in how things work even though we live within 15 miles of each other, because our indoor environments are different. I use more intense lights and run higher temperatures in my rooms, so my plants will probably demand more water then his would. Point I'm trying to make is that you can't follow anyone else's schedule exactly because everyones' grow is different, so you are going to have to spend some time learning to read your plants. When it comes to water, the signs are pretty obvious though- A plant does not have a skeleton, so all of it's rigidity is the result of water pressure. If the plant/leaves are all drooping it's a pretty good indication that there isn't enough water being sucked up to maintain enough pressure to keep the plant/leaves standing upright, and giving it a good drink will cause the water pressure to increase so quickly that within an hour or two you'll never know there was a problem. True, overwatering can produce the same drooping effect, but it is usually accompanied by a lot of yellowing/miscoloring of the leaves very early on. That doesn't usually occur with underwatering until the plant has depleted every drop of water available and is starting to die. And frankly, I've found that it's actually quite difficult to overwater a mature plant. Too much water will kill seedlings and young clones easily, but once a plant has been vegging for 3-4 weeks it seems to have developed the ability to suck up pretty much all the water the dirt in the pot it's planted in can actually hold.
 
Thanks Riddle,

Got an off topic question- Is there any way to get the website to keep you logged in for more then 15 minutes at a pop? I'm getting a bit tired of having the site log me out while I'm in the middle of typing a response. :)
 
It never logs me off because I clicked the little remember me box under the login which puts a cookie on your puter that keeps you logged in. then when I close my browser I do not log out so everytime I open the site I am logged in automatically
 
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