Can I clone without root formula?
- Thread starter nwddark
- Start date
Purplekrunchie
Well-Known Member
Yes it is, I have done in just water. The root formulas really just aid you, but if you keep optimum conditions it will work without it just fine. Change water out 1-2 times daily if you just have it soaking.
darkdestruction420
Well-Known Member
thats good advice, but you dont need to change the water when water cloning. i never have and its never been a problem.
original poster-heres a good water cloning tutorial, let me know if it helps, if not i can probally find something else.
original poster-heres a good water cloning tutorial, let me know if it helps, if not i can probally find something else.
darkdestruction420
Well-Known Member
How do I clone plants?
As easy as cloning is to the masses that use powder, liquid/gel rooting hormone, bubblers and soil, etc. There is an even less complex method of cloning that is so easy, it must have been around for decades, if not centuries. The only ingredients involved are water, light, and the cutting you would like to root. In the example I?m going to show, I?ve cut three different sizes of clone. The first with two leaves and a single growing tip (S). The next has four nodes, but still only a couple large leaves (M). The third is 6? tall, has seven nodes and several sets of good-sized leaves (L).
As with normal cloning, you immediately dip the cutting in the water for about 15 to 30 seconds, tweaking it to dislodge any air bubbles that may be present. But the biggest difference is, you won?t be removing the cutting from the water until it has roots big enough to support the foliage above. Make sure the cup, which contains the cutting, is opaque. This prevents the light from shining directly on the roots.
So far, I?ve mentioned the cuttings and the water, but the most important part is the light. I have made this method work 100% of the time simply by sitting my cuttings on a windowsill that receives no direct sunlight. In fact, slightly shaded would be even better. In the evenings (short days), I sit them on an end table over 7 feet from a ceiling mounted 100-watt incandescent bulb. At bedtime, I just turn off the lights like normal, and when I get up in the AM its back to the windowsill. During the longer daylight hours they can be left on the sill full time. Remember, no direct sunlight.
The picture shows my three cuttings in their water cups. M & L have barely an inch of water to sit in. Any more and it would cover one of the leaf stems. The smaller one stayed in the plastic because the stem was too short to sit in water and stay upright in the cup. Do what?s necessary to keep at least ½? of the stem in the water.
Notice the glass that diffuses light, an extra measure against too much light exposure.
The clones grew roots at far different speeds. S showed in seven days, with a small ¼? long root and another small protrusion.
By the time S?s roots reached this level of development (nine days), L was just putting out the first nubs that would be roots. M has shown no inclination of rooting at all. Searching for an answer, I changed the water in Ms cup, but I think it boils down too the thickness of the stem. Both M&L have the same size stem but L has far more foliage on top.
S is doing far better than the others (seen below) and M is finally starting to show.
M showed roots in 14 days and was planted on day 18.
This picture was taken just before transplant.
L showed roots on day 11 and was in soil at day 18.
This picture was taken just before transplant.
S showed roots at seven days and was in the soil at 15.
This picture was taken just before transplant.
Transplanting is as easy as it ever is. I use a pre-fertilized potting soil, mixed with 1/2 perlite. I like the clear cups as I can see how soon they can be removed from the humidity dome. Fill a 4 oz cup with soil mix and swirl a hole an inch deep in the top, insert the plants roots and cover.
DO NOT WATER!! Watering will actually delay the roots growth into the new medium. You want it almost dry below so they search for the moisture. Make whatever mix you use semi-moist before transplant.
The dome you see is a cheapo Styrofoam cooler available from any grocery store for $2-$3. Toss the lid and cover with saran wrap with a 1/2 dozen 1/4" holes in it. What you see in the picture is a spare piece of plexi I have. It sits off centre to provide some venting. Simply set an open jar of water inside and close. The jar itself will keep the humidity at around 75%. If you don?t like this, just spray a couple times a day with plain water.
L showed itself almost overnight.
All were in the 320-watt veg area in roughly three weeks from cutting to final transplant.
That?s it, the easiest cloning method there is. No spraying, no overheating, no drying out, no hormones, just plant, light and water. Following these instructions, I?ve had a 100% success rate (The one that died actually drank all her water and I forgot to refill!). Good luck!
As easy as cloning is to the masses that use powder, liquid/gel rooting hormone, bubblers and soil, etc. There is an even less complex method of cloning that is so easy, it must have been around for decades, if not centuries. The only ingredients involved are water, light, and the cutting you would like to root. In the example I?m going to show, I?ve cut three different sizes of clone. The first with two leaves and a single growing tip (S). The next has four nodes, but still only a couple large leaves (M). The third is 6? tall, has seven nodes and several sets of good-sized leaves (L).
As with normal cloning, you immediately dip the cutting in the water for about 15 to 30 seconds, tweaking it to dislodge any air bubbles that may be present. But the biggest difference is, you won?t be removing the cutting from the water until it has roots big enough to support the foliage above. Make sure the cup, which contains the cutting, is opaque. This prevents the light from shining directly on the roots.
So far, I?ve mentioned the cuttings and the water, but the most important part is the light. I have made this method work 100% of the time simply by sitting my cuttings on a windowsill that receives no direct sunlight. In fact, slightly shaded would be even better. In the evenings (short days), I sit them on an end table over 7 feet from a ceiling mounted 100-watt incandescent bulb. At bedtime, I just turn off the lights like normal, and when I get up in the AM its back to the windowsill. During the longer daylight hours they can be left on the sill full time. Remember, no direct sunlight.
The picture shows my three cuttings in their water cups. M & L have barely an inch of water to sit in. Any more and it would cover one of the leaf stems. The smaller one stayed in the plastic because the stem was too short to sit in water and stay upright in the cup. Do what?s necessary to keep at least ½? of the stem in the water.
Notice the glass that diffuses light, an extra measure against too much light exposure.
The clones grew roots at far different speeds. S showed in seven days, with a small ¼? long root and another small protrusion.
By the time S?s roots reached this level of development (nine days), L was just putting out the first nubs that would be roots. M has shown no inclination of rooting at all. Searching for an answer, I changed the water in Ms cup, but I think it boils down too the thickness of the stem. Both M&L have the same size stem but L has far more foliage on top.
S is doing far better than the others (seen below) and M is finally starting to show.
M showed roots in 14 days and was planted on day 18.
This picture was taken just before transplant.
L showed roots on day 11 and was in soil at day 18.
This picture was taken just before transplant.
S showed roots at seven days and was in the soil at 15.
This picture was taken just before transplant.
Transplanting is as easy as it ever is. I use a pre-fertilized potting soil, mixed with 1/2 perlite. I like the clear cups as I can see how soon they can be removed from the humidity dome. Fill a 4 oz cup with soil mix and swirl a hole an inch deep in the top, insert the plants roots and cover.
DO NOT WATER!! Watering will actually delay the roots growth into the new medium. You want it almost dry below so they search for the moisture. Make whatever mix you use semi-moist before transplant.
The dome you see is a cheapo Styrofoam cooler available from any grocery store for $2-$3. Toss the lid and cover with saran wrap with a 1/2 dozen 1/4" holes in it. What you see in the picture is a spare piece of plexi I have. It sits off centre to provide some venting. Simply set an open jar of water inside and close. The jar itself will keep the humidity at around 75%. If you don?t like this, just spray a couple times a day with plain water.
L showed itself almost overnight.
All were in the 320-watt veg area in roughly three weeks from cutting to final transplant.
That?s it, the easiest cloning method there is. No spraying, no overheating, no drying out, no hormones, just plant, light and water. Following these instructions, I?ve had a 100% success rate (The one that died actually drank all her water and I forgot to refill!). Good luck!
GidgetGrows
Well-Known Member
I wondered this exact same thing myself, so I tried, and it totally worked.
I prepped my soil, sprayed it moist in the hole I made with my finger, snipped the clone from the "mother" jammed it in the hole, pressed the dirt around the stem and spritzed it with more water. I threw it in the dark and the next day put in the grow area wherever there was room and it eventually started fresh growth. Granted I misted the leaves whenever I thought about it, and it was moved from the flowering to veg area and back and forth repeatedly(there was really no space, just an experiment) Now they are permanently in the flowering area... I think I'll get 2 grams off them, maybe LOL.
PICS attached, no clone, just water and TLC.
Dates on Pictures are: 2/1, 2/9, 2/15, 3/12
(and as it says, I took it off the "mother" when she was 5 weeks into flowering)
I prepped my soil, sprayed it moist in the hole I made with my finger, snipped the clone from the "mother" jammed it in the hole, pressed the dirt around the stem and spritzed it with more water. I threw it in the dark and the next day put in the grow area wherever there was room and it eventually started fresh growth. Granted I misted the leaves whenever I thought about it, and it was moved from the flowering to veg area and back and forth repeatedly(there was really no space, just an experiment) Now they are permanently in the flowering area... I think I'll get 2 grams off them, maybe LOL.
PICS attached, no clone, just water and TLC.
Dates on Pictures are: 2/1, 2/9, 2/15, 3/12
(and as it says, I took it off the "mother" when she was 5 weeks into flowering)
Attachments
Thanks for the responses guys.
My original plan was to clone each one of my 35 plants, all unknown/random seeds. They are vegging under 3 400w HPS lamps and they are looking great. They are 1 Month 9 Days old. I was going to take clones from each plant, veg them for a little bit and put them into flowering to see which one of the mothers are actually fathers since I didnt have feminized seeds. The reason I'm doing this is because 35 plants at 1.5 months old dont fit well under 3 lights. I want to get rid of my males ASAP to give more room for the females.
I got root gel today. I took my cuttings and dipped them in the gel. I then put them into moist soil. I also made sure no light could shine through the soil for the roots to grow. The clones are under bar flouresents less than 2 inches away from the tops of the clones.
The only thing I'm worried about is that my clones were anywhere between 3 inches to 6 inches long, some maybe even 2 inches. Is that too short? What is the probability of them surviving?
any feedback is greatly appreciated
My original plan was to clone each one of my 35 plants, all unknown/random seeds. They are vegging under 3 400w HPS lamps and they are looking great. They are 1 Month 9 Days old. I was going to take clones from each plant, veg them for a little bit and put them into flowering to see which one of the mothers are actually fathers since I didnt have feminized seeds. The reason I'm doing this is because 35 plants at 1.5 months old dont fit well under 3 lights. I want to get rid of my males ASAP to give more room for the females.
I got root gel today. I took my cuttings and dipped them in the gel. I then put them into moist soil. I also made sure no light could shine through the soil for the roots to grow. The clones are under bar flouresents less than 2 inches away from the tops of the clones.
The only thing I'm worried about is that my clones were anywhere between 3 inches to 6 inches long, some maybe even 2 inches. Is that too short? What is the probability of them surviving?
any feedback is greatly appreciated
Ian Singerdale
Well-Known Member
- your light is way too close. they have no roots, so photosynthesis only slows down root growth and drys them out
- snip the leaves in half, across the leaf. this slows down water loss
- mist them as often as you can going this way
I use a home built cloner, with nothing but filtered water and a couple tablespoons of weak hydrogen peroxide and I have roots in 5-8 days without thinking about it. no misting or anything
cost me about $70 in parts
That 5hit
Well-Known Member
super2200
Well-Known Member
Beer cans work awesome and are always around for some reason. works the same as the plastic wrap over the cup, normally the opening is perfect for holding the foliage up while hanging cut stem down in (dark) water. I still like to clone with the medium I am growing with as its going there anyway. I stopped using the powder after being stoned and realizing that I had filled a tray with fresh cuttings and I think the weed somehow made me forget. I normally just fill the solo cup halfway with pro mix wet down good with small dose of GH florablend tea or clonex if I have it and then cover with plastic wrap after misting good, I half fill to have a small greenhouse affect in the space remaining. Its very easy to glance and see the condensation hanging from the plastic wrap so I know its got plenty of moisture. I can see when the cutting stands tall and starts pushing towards to plastic, after week I poke holes in the plastic to release oxygen forgot to mention the cups go into the veg spot indirectly under 400w hps for heat, normally catches root in 10-14 days. Once rooted I transplant into another solo cup filled all the way this time to give the roots a weeks worth of grow room. Once root bound in the cup or 8-9 inches tall I transplant into the pot. The plants sitting in the water pretty much get what they need as the water evaps and rises onto the foliage as there are no roots yet and the plant absorbs through foliage until it catches root this is why I prefer the small greenhouse affect in the cup for the foliage as I dont have to do anything but make sure the cup does not dry out or stop having enough humidity to create the condensation. The domes for me give too much fucking humidity and clones always rot so I found my own way that works for me, try a few ways and see which way gets you the 100% Good luck