I'm currently at the very beginning of a Gelato community grow see @Laughing Grass 's journal and my plants are serving me my ass on a platter. I'll just stipulate to losing now and save myself the effort. Thanks!
Can I combine a blurple with a 5000k LED for flowering?
I'm currently at the very beginning of a Gelato community grow see @Laughing Grass 's journal and my plants are serving me my ass on a platter. I'll just stipulate to losing now and save myself the effort. Thanks!
Cpappa27
Well-Known Member
A pm meeting? Like evening, tonight?Anyways I don't mean to derail this thread so let's do a pm meeting. No rush. I know where you all post
And of coarse c2g is welcome even though she turtled me I still likelove her
Jjgrow420
Well-Known Member
Private msg. Lol you eager little beaver. no rush I just have seeds popped out of the dirt yest. So I wouldn't be ready for a bit anyways. Plus maybe drop that sounds shitting his pants like oh damn now I gotta do this. Lmao
If I had any sense of humor I'd say I made you say that....... LOL seriously guys no offense taken. Currently I have a full holding pattern over my flower table and am actually bringing a second one online because I won't have a crack in the ceiling until I finish these current survey tables. So I'm doing gelato on the side and now Pineapple Fields (that I blame totally on @Tolerance Break ). I swore off running 2 flower tables ages ago so there's just no way I could until '26. Have fun and I'll follow along from the sidelines, thanks!Anyways I don't mean to derail this thread so let's do a pm meeting. No rush. I know where you all post
And of coarse c2g is welcome even though she turtled me I still likelove her
Er3
Well-Known Member
This is the way lol... I'd like to see this challengeMy man that's whats up! Haha, we'll pick a time and a place soon. Just the motivation I needed to build the great value screw-inator 750 (or however many watts I want) supreme light fixture I planned out.
And now, back to the OP..
Cpappa27
Well-Known Member
Eager I am. Private message meeting, this is a closed door meeting no press. I actually have quite the full tent now with my sand grow experiment I just started.
Drop That Sound
Well-Known Member
Sorry I just bought up the last of the large 50 packs, but yeah I really like those plastic base sockets I linked. You can easily wire them right up with extension cords, like a string light if you want. Add any kind of LED screw in bulb you want. Great way to supplement some extra lighting, on a budget. As long as you are comfortable with the wiring, which is simple with these sockets.
If you only needed a few extra bulbs to help light it up, those 2-3-4-5-6 way socket splitters are pretty cool too.
Those 30 watt bulbs seem good, but they probably burn a bit hotter, and don't last aaaas long as the lower wattage ones. Thats not gonna stop me from getting a few of them though, now that I know they have cheap Great value ones!
If you only needed a few extra bulbs to help light it up, those 2-3-4-5-6 way socket splitters are pretty cool too.
Those 30 watt bulbs seem good, but they probably burn a bit hotter, and don't last aaaas long as the lower wattage ones. Thats not gonna stop me from getting a few of them though, now that I know they have cheap Great value ones!
chamenon
Member
Does that mean I don't need anything else in terms of lights? Just these 5000K shop lights (and possibly some 2700K additions too?)
Last time I grew was the CFL bulbs is your budget option era and I remember that people used cooler CFL bulbs to mimic MH and warmer 2700K CFLs to mimic HPS lights. Do I not need them with LEDs? Why do most grow lights have at least Red LEDS?
chamenon
Member
I think buying a 5 in 1 light socket and getting 5 of those 30w 2700K LEDs as you suggest might be a viable and economical option if I don't need those red LEDs specifically. At $6 a piece 30 x 5 = 150watts of 2700K lights for $30. I hope with the addition of the current 135w total 5000K LEDs they'll provide enough of everything to cover a 3x2 tent.
Drop That Sound
Well-Known Member
The 5000k are overall brighter than the 2700k, at least for any of those great value LED lights\bulbs btw. The daylight versions put out more light, and even cost a little more.. The way I see it, you might possibly have a bigger harvest with all 5000k GV LEDS simply for the fact there is more light.. I like the idea of mixing the 2 spectrum though.
It saves money when your building big 700-800+ watt screw in LED bulb fixtures anyway..lol
Yeah I wouldn't worry too much about adding extra red. If you get the 6 way splitter though, it has one socket in the middle I think... That would be a good place to add whatever supplemental bulb. Maybe even a 365nm+ UV LED bulb in the middle, surrounded by the 2700ks..
With the 30w bulbs in the splitter, and a UV or red or whatever in the middle socket, that would be a bangin' little light fixture! Even with your 9w bulbs it would be, let alone the 30 watters.
It saves money when your building big 700-800+ watt screw in LED bulb fixtures anyway..lol
Yeah I wouldn't worry too much about adding extra red. If you get the 6 way splitter though, it has one socket in the middle I think... That would be a good place to add whatever supplemental bulb. Maybe even a 365nm+ UV LED bulb in the middle, surrounded by the 2700ks..
With the 30w bulbs in the splitter, and a UV or red or whatever in the middle socket, that would be a bangin' little light fixture! Even with your 9w bulbs it would be, let alone the 30 watters.
Drop That Sound
Well-Known Member
Its gonna be super bright and concentrated though, especially with those large bulbs COBbled together (with the frosted diffusers removed).. Don't underestimate them! You might have to raise it up quite a bit to match the output of the rest of your lighting.
That's why I mainly prefer the single base sockets and extension cord wires.. so you can spread the bulbs out for more even coverage, but I would probably use splitters in your case. Maybe best to get 2 splitters, and use the 14w 2700k instead. Or 3, and use up your 9 watt ones you already have plus another box, etc..
That's why I mainly prefer the single base sockets and extension cord wires.. so you can spread the bulbs out for more even coverage, but I would probably use splitters in your case. Maybe best to get 2 splitters, and use the 14w 2700k instead. Or 3, and use up your 9 watt ones you already have plus another box, etc..
chamenon
Member
Following up, I purchased 4 of these sockets with wires already connected. They're just white instead of black but looks exactly the same. One thing that makes me worried is these holes, especially the one with number 1 I draw next to it. Do you think the mist from the close by humidifier could cause problems or any fire risk?
Both shop LEDs as well as LED bulbs we discussed here are rated for damp environments (which is the reason why I'm hesitant to remove the bulb covers) but I wasn't sure about these holes in these sockets.
I'm thinking about covering them with electrical tape but I also don't understand why they're (especially number 1) is there since there is no screw or anything below it and I'm trying to understand if it has any purpose that I can't seem to figure out? Or would it be just fine covering it with electrical tape?
Drop That Sound
Well-Known Member
I been using the side holes (#1) for the wires to go in, more like a string light.
Cheap extension cords actually have the best rated wire (cheaper than buying a roll) that is a perfect tight fit. Like they were designed for it. You could probably hang from it and they won’t come loose. Plus the cords already come with both a plugin and a receptical end, for daisy chaining or whatever, saving even more money.
You can use the main m10 threaded hole as a way to mount them to a frame or panel. Yours probably came with an extra peice to secure the single wire Im guessing.
As far as hole #2.. I really don’t know the reason. Maybe its part of the injection mold, or a purposefully made air vent to release heat. Or different wire or something...
I wouldn’t use electrical tape because they do get somewhat warm, and it will just get all sticky and come off. High temp RTV silicone is your best bet to fill them in if worried about it. I use it to cover the exposed prongs on the circuit boards too, when removing the globes, so you don't accidently swipe them & get zapped.
Cheap extension cords actually have the best rated wire (cheaper than buying a roll) that is a perfect tight fit. Like they were designed for it. You could probably hang from it and they won’t come loose. Plus the cords already come with both a plugin and a receptical end, for daisy chaining or whatever, saving even more money.
You can use the main m10 threaded hole as a way to mount them to a frame or panel. Yours probably came with an extra peice to secure the single wire Im guessing.
As far as hole #2.. I really don’t know the reason. Maybe its part of the injection mold, or a purposefully made air vent to release heat. Or different wire or something...
I wouldn’t use electrical tape because they do get somewhat warm, and it will just get all sticky and come off. High temp RTV silicone is your best bet to fill them in if worried about it. I use it to cover the exposed prongs on the circuit boards too, when removing the globes, so you don't accidently swipe them & get zapped.
Drop That Sound
Well-Known Member
Brrr! It's frozen outside. I had to take a pic though.. Look what I drug home from a trash pile! 
I'm possibly going to try taking 2 of the side sections of this pop up awning frame, and make some kind of retractable scissoring..? ..screw in LED light fixtures. The idea being they can expand when needed, or contract (not all the way, but close!) for super space saving storage mode. They can go really long and skinny too.. I would be using the same plastic lamp sockets above of course. I bought another 150 of them recently, lol. I'll use the rest of the metal pieces from the other 2 side sections to make more smaller arms that swing out, and fill in the empty spaces between the main rows with more sockets, for a nice even grid of lights. I'll find the rough draft I drew up somewhere..
I got a few other fun ideas to play around with too, for making custom SIL fixtures with the same sockets..
I'm possibly going to try taking 2 of the side sections of this pop up awning frame, and make some kind of retractable scissoring..? ..screw in LED light fixtures. The idea being they can expand when needed, or contract (not all the way, but close!) for super space saving storage mode. They can go really long and skinny too.. I would be using the same plastic lamp sockets above of course. I bought another 150 of them recently, lol. I'll use the rest of the metal pieces from the other 2 side sections to make more smaller arms that swing out, and fill in the empty spaces between the main rows with more sockets, for a nice even grid of lights. I'll find the rough draft I drew up somewhere..
I got a few other fun ideas to play around with too, for making custom SIL fixtures with the same sockets..
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chamenon
Member
Thanks! as far as I understand you haven't had a problem with any of those open holes due to humidity so far, right?
That frame idea could turn out super useful, post your results when you're done with it!
Drop That Sound
Well-Known Member
Nope, no problems like that. Not much different than the open + & - plug slots in any nearby electrical outlet/recepticals/power strips that would be hanging around near the mist, which actually do have terminals that are exposed right inside the plug slots.. You wouldn't go taping all those up too would you? I don't see anyone else doing it either.. 
Almost all my grow rooms outlets are GFCI protected, and I don't actually grow in my house anyway or worry about a fire, but I do understand your concern with "holy" sockets and moisture.. I question everything too. Its good to worry like that
All grow lights or equipment come with some inherent risks from moisture damage (think about it, digital ballast for example have little fans that would suck the same humidifier moisture right into the housing all the time, etc..) , but yeah I don't worry about the sockets at all that way.
However, I do leave the diffuser globes on the bulbs now days if I know I'll literally be spraying into vegging plants, especially ones that are really close by under the fixture, or stuffed in a small space without a lot of height between it and the plants. Even If I did accidentally get direct spray or water droplets up into the sockets, the worst I could see happening is ruining a cheap $2 bulb, and having to screw a new one in. No big deal.
That is what I love about DIY screw in bulbs\fixtures. Unlike a commercial grow fixture that is powered by one single driver (and needs to be sent in for repair), you can always just fix it yourself, by simply screwing in a new bulb from the store down the road if they burn out..
I don't really spray anything or use humidifiers in flower, so those are mainly the diy screw in fixtures I would remove the globes from the bulbs on. You get way better output without them, but yeah.. the only problem really is the exposed PCB terminals with the live prongs that stick down at that point if you do remove them. Like I said though, I bend the little prongs over and blob high temp rtv over them as an insulator, and then its just about as good as any other exposed diodes/ciucuits like on a quantum board fixture IMO. You could cut the globes in half, and leave a protective lip that sticks down from the bulb to keep you from hitting them with your head too.
Almost all my grow rooms outlets are GFCI protected, and I don't actually grow in my house anyway or worry about a fire, but I do understand your concern with "holy" sockets and moisture.. I question everything too. Its good to worry like that
All grow lights or equipment come with some inherent risks from moisture damage (think about it, digital ballast for example have little fans that would suck the same humidifier moisture right into the housing all the time, etc..) , but yeah I don't worry about the sockets at all that way.
However, I do leave the diffuser globes on the bulbs now days if I know I'll literally be spraying into vegging plants, especially ones that are really close by under the fixture, or stuffed in a small space without a lot of height between it and the plants. Even If I did accidentally get direct spray or water droplets up into the sockets, the worst I could see happening is ruining a cheap $2 bulb, and having to screw a new one in. No big deal.
That is what I love about DIY screw in bulbs\fixtures. Unlike a commercial grow fixture that is powered by one single driver (and needs to be sent in for repair), you can always just fix it yourself, by simply screwing in a new bulb from the store down the road if they burn out..
I don't really spray anything or use humidifiers in flower, so those are mainly the diy screw in fixtures I would remove the globes from the bulbs on. You get way better output without them, but yeah.. the only problem really is the exposed PCB terminals with the live prongs that stick down at that point if you do remove them. Like I said though, I bend the little prongs over and blob high temp rtv over them as an insulator, and then its just about as good as any other exposed diodes/ciucuits like on a quantum board fixture IMO. You could cut the globes in half, and leave a protective lip that sticks down from the bulb to keep you from hitting them with your head too.
Er3
Well-Known Member
Id love to see your growNope, no problems like that. Not much different than the open + & - plug slots in any nearby electrical outlet/recepticals/power strips that would be hanging around near the mist, which actually do have terminals that are exposed right inside the plug slots.. You wouldn't go taping all those up too would you? I don't see anyone else doing it either..
Almost all my grow rooms outlets are GFCI protected, and I don't actually grow in my house anyway or worry about a fire, but I do understand your concern with "holy" sockets and moisture.. I question everything too. Its good to worry like that
All grow lights or equipment come with some inherent risks from moisture damage (think about it, digital ballast for example have little fans that would suck the same humidifier moisture right into the housing all the time, etc..) , but yeah I don't worry about the sockets at all that way.
However, I do leave the diffuser globes on the bulbs now days if I know I'll literally be spraying into vegging plants, especially ones that are really close by under the fixture, or stuffed in a small space without a lot of height between it and the plants. Even If I did accidentally get direct spray or water droplets up into the sockets, the worst I could see happening is ruining a cheap $2 bulb, and having to screw a new one in. No big deal.
That is what I love about DIY screw in bulbs\fixtures. Unlike a commercial grow fixture that is powered by one single driver (and needs to be sent in for repair), you can always just fix it yourself, by simply screwing in a new bulb from the store down the road if they burn out..
I don't really spray anything or use humidifiers in flower, so those are mainly the diy screw in fixtures I would remove the globes from the bulbs on. You get way better output without them, but yeah.. the only problem really is the exposed PCB terminals with the live prongs that stick down at that point if you do remove them. Like I said though, I bend the little prongs over and blob high temp rtv over them as an insulator, and then its just about as good as any other exposed diodes/ciucuits like on a quantum board fixture IMO. You could cut the globes in half, and leave a protective lip that sticks down from the bulb to keep you from hitting them with your head too.