Can someone tell me whats causing this?

the oyster shells in the ocean forest tend to dissolve and exit the soil faster than other buffers. You could either flush the soil clean and start re-introducing nutes, or add some lime to re-buffer it.
 
DANKSWAG said:
Just to give you an idea what could be easy and simple to obtain without half the effort and cost...
https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journal-discussion/669922-flowering-soon-phogs-2.html#post9332874
Click to expand...
Did you just link your two page passive hydro thread to this guy to solve his plant problems? WTF man? Your not even trying to help are you? Rotfl and how the flying fuck is doing what is in your link any cheaper with half the effort?? Ok lets see, you got black light proof plastic buckets, 1" gromets by the looks of things, 3/4 " light proof tubing, smart pot fabric type pots all chopped up and draped around another smart pot style fabric container. some small silica rocks, a 90 degree elbow which leads to a pour spout by the looks of things. So im guessing that you have to empty the water out with the spiggot every damn time you water??? How is that less effot or cheaper than ffof in a five gallon container water and walk away. HOWWWWWWWW?
answer that please.....
 
Nizza said:
the oyster shells in the ocean forest tend to dissolve and exit the soil faster than other buffers. You could either flush the soil clean and start re-introducing nutes, or add some lime to re-buffer it.
Click to expand...

The oyster shell can be consumed with aging as well and all too often this soil sits and ages in warm warehouses and grow stores as well . I have actually tested it out of the bag at just under 5.0 ! The average I tested was at 6.2
 
The whole argument by the way about Organic verses Non is really fucking annoying as each has its own perks and downfalls . I for one have a Master Gardener Degree and am fully educated about the living web within soil but none the less indoors I only use synthetics as I do not want any organic matter in my home , especially shit processed or not . Outdoors is a whole different world and I do grow a massive organic veggie gardens but if need be I am not afraid to pull out the non organic nutrients as I refuse to chase nute deficiencies while loosing yields with anything that I grow.
 
ProfessorPotSnob said:
The whole argument by the way about Organic verses Non is really fucking annoying as each has its own perks and downfalls . I for one have a Master Gardener Degree and am fully educated about the living web within soil but none the less indoors I only use synthetics as I do not want any organic matter in my home , especially shit processed or not . Outdoors is a whole different world and I do grow a massive organic veggie gardens but if need be I am not afraid to pull out the non organic nutrients as I refuse to chase nute deficiencies while loosing yields with anything that I grow.
Click to expand...
Wow, i was just about to ask for your take on it and bam! There it is :) good to see you again and im glad were thinkin the same thing on this one. Speaking of outside gardens, i should go feed mine :( + rep for your expert opinion once again :):):)
 
ProfessorPotSnob said:
The whole argument by the way about Organic verses Non is really fucking annoying as each has its own perks and downfalls . I for one have a Master Gardener Degree and am fully educated about the living web within soil but none the less indoors I only use synthetics as I do not want any organic matter in my home , especially shit processed or not . Outdoors is a whole different world and I do grow a massive organic veggie gardens but if need be I am not afraid to pull out the non organic nutrients as I refuse to chase nute deficiencies while loosing yields with anything that I grow.
Click to expand...


I realize there are some forms of inorganic nutrients that properly used will not kill soil web that will not under go chemical reactions in the soil producing acids ranging low as 1.2 or as high as 11.

I think we can both agree whatever would be available in the organic soil would not be accessible due to the PH imbalance. Since most chemical fertilizers are mostly macro nutrients NPK and very little of micro nutrients. It is easier than not to create such imbalances in the soil applying these kind of nutrients. Therefore again why bother with paying for soil, it's going to yo yo more then likely with the PH range and creates a higher level of a challenge to maintain as opposed a pure water reservoirs that are properly PHd and PPM regularly to ensure optimal feeding. So why waste the money on soil? Will you reuse it, less likely then if one were to be using a neutral based medium that can be cleansed with H202 over and over for reuse.

Typical standards for chemical ferts Urea (46-0-0), triple superphosphate (0-46-0) and potassium chloride (0-0-60 45-50 % chorlide) are used to make many conventional NPK fertilizers like 10-10-10.

With the urea is consumed by bacteria and will produce toxic anhydrous ammonia and it also reacts to water to produce toxic ammonium hydroxide with a PH of 11.6, kills microbes and harms seeds. Triple superphoshate is very acidic and binds with calcium in the soil. Making both unavailable. Potassium chloride raises levels 50-200, we know what chloride does to the microbeasties in the soil, it kills them. Though plants can uptake these chemicals in ionic form, they also can take up complex organic molecules and prefer natural sources for vitamins and other compounds to synthetic ones. Ie they prefer seaweed or molasses over iron sulfate.

Again not all chemical fertilizers are evil, but I wonder are you using the good ones:
Calcium Nitrate 15-0-0 (Unnecessary to many good organic forms that work just as well)
Monammonium Phosphate 11-52-0 (MAP) (Again Rock Phosphate will do the job)
Phosporic Acid (Food Grade 75-85%) (Many inexpensive organic options)

Bottom line I'd be afraid to consume the crap that is out there to appeal to greed, bigger isn't always better and a properly mix and balanced organic soil will not leave you chasing nutrient deficiencies. Especially those that self induced!
 
Well its been a few since my last post srry guys!!!! Well i flushed and added lime to bring my ph back up to around 6.6 to 6.8:lol:. Haven't added anything else to the mix till i got the medium under control i will be adding at 1/3 the standard instead of the full dose, the girls just cant hang with the full doses. So here's some pics got the claw going on and brought the lights up a bit their starting there stretch.



IMAG1057.jpgIMAG1058.jpgIMAG1059.jpgIMAG1060.jpgIMAG1061.jpgIMAG1062.jpg
 
DANKSWAG said:
I realize there are some forms of inorganic nutrients that properly used will not kill soil web that will not under go chemical reactions in the soil producing acids ranging low as 1.2 or as high as 11.

I think we can both agree whatever would be available in the organic soil would not be accessible due to the PH imbalance. Since most chemical fertilizers are mostly macro nutrients NPK and very little of micro nutrients. It is easier than not to create such imbalances in the soil applying these kind of nutrients. Therefore again why bother with paying for soil, it's going to yo yo more then likely with the PH range and creates a higher level of a challenge to maintain as opposed a pure water reservoirs that are properly PHd and PPM regularly to ensure optimal feeding. So why waste the money on soil? Will you reuse it, less likely then if one were to be using a neutral based medium that can be cleansed with H202 over and over for reuse.

Typical standards for chemical ferts Urea (46-0-0), triple superphosphate (0-46-0) and potassium chloride (0-0-60 45-50 % chorlide) are used to make many conventional NPK fertilizers like 10-10-10.

With the urea is consumed by bacteria and will produce toxic anhydrous ammonia and it also reacts to water to produce toxic ammonium hydroxide with a PH of 11.6, kills microbes and harms seeds. Triple superphoshate is very acidic and binds with calcium in the soil. Making both unavailable. Potassium chloride raises levels 50-200, we know what chloride does to the microbeasties in the soil, it kills them. Though plants can uptake these chemicals in ionic form, they also can take up complex organic molecules and prefer natural sources for vitamins and other compounds to synthetic ones. Ie they prefer seaweed or molasses over iron sulfate.

Again not all chemical fertilizers are evil, but I wonder are you using the good ones:
Calcium Nitrate 15-0-0 (Unnecessary to many good organic forms that work just as well)
Monammonium Phosphate 11-52-0 (MAP) (Again Rock Phosphate will do the job)
Phosporic Acid (Food Grade 75-85%) (Many inexpensive organic options)

Bottom line I'd be afraid to consume the crap that is out there to appeal to greed, bigger isn't always better and a properly mix and balanced organic soil will not leave you chasing nutrient deficiencies. Especially those that self induced!
Click to expand...


My friend, most people could care less in the end sad to say , as I mentioned each has its own perks and downfalls and a skilled grower can master each and manifest equality but its rare to find one that understands it all in the end . I have always enjoyed living soils but they sure can not be found in an organic mix that has just begun to break down and begin this ancient process . Not saying I would add non synthetics if not necessary either but to each there own as we all take our own paths .

I do believe that all soils can be worthwhile if the web is balanced but in the end this is rarely the case even in our own backyard sad to say :( and when it comes to those evil chemicals I choose not to use them on Mother earth as I know what is earth based and what is not regardless of the word synthetic .

But none the less we must remember that beginners need not have this complication and the plug and play will always be rule number one for them .. Looks like the op is doing just that and all will be to his advantage in the end .. Peace .PotSnob
 
botanist95 said:
Well its been a few since my last post srry guys!!!! Well i flushed and added lime to bring my ph back up to around 6.6 to 6.8:lol:. Haven't added anything else to the mix till i got the medium under control i will be adding at 1/3 the standard instead of the full dose, the girls just cant hang with the full doses. So here's some pics got the claw going on and brought the lights up a bit their starting there stretch.



.

View attachment 2740457View attachment 2740458View attachment 2740463View attachment 2740464View attachment 2740465View attachment 2740466
Click to expand...


Looking good , they will let you know whats up lol .. That claw can be brought on by more than excessive nitrogen, over watering and soil compaction can induce this too
 
thanks potsnob for the kind words and yes thats true to the claw it started after the flush newer growth has started to level out no new claw but less worried about the claw more about the over all health of the plant. And with the help of all you guys my stress level along with my girls have substantially been 100% better and i thank you guys for that!!!
 
not trying to thread jack, but since this thread has been a useful learning tool:
is dolomite lime a better CalMag alternative for organic soil use?
 
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