Can't figure out what is this

Have2

Have2

Well-Known Member
Hi all!

I am having a hard time figuring out what is the deficiency... I don't know why I have so much issues sorting those out... that kills me! or the plants.. ahah

Temp 80, leaf temp 75, co2, 1500, humidity, 55.
RDWC, water temp 67 to 70.
Light at 570-600 PAR (leds)
PPM just did a flush at 280 and it dropped to 250, rising again to 300-320 (Edit: I inject ppms each X hours) over 24 hours (to make it a steady rise and not going up by 30-50%) ~ (I can't go past 400-450 else I got burned tips). Using silica also.
Second week of veg.

Thank! :)
 

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hotrodharley

hotrodharley

Well-Known Member
Read up on why volume drops (drinking) and EC rises (they’re not taking up nutrients at the moment) and etc
 
Have2

Have2

Well-Known Member
hotrodharley said:
Read up on why volume drops (drinking) and EC rises (they’re not taking up nutrients at the moment) and etc
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Yes they are. I inject nutrients on a hour basis to keep EC at the required level. So they drink and consume ppm.
 
hotrodharley

hotrodharley

Well-Known Member
For those lacking such sophistication if volume drops and EC has risen top off the reservoir with water and then check EC. Adjust accordingly.
 
N

nobighurry

Well-Known Member
Have2 said:
Hi all!

I am having a hard time figuring out what is the deficiency... I don't know why I have so much issues sorting those out... that kills me! or the plants.. ahah

Temp 80, leaf temp 75, co2, 1500, humidity, 55.
RDWC, water temp 67 to 70.
Light at 570-600 PAR (leds)
PPM just did a flush at 280 and it dropped to 250, rising again to 300-320 (Edit: I inject ppms each X hours) over 24 hours (to make it a steady rise and not going up by 30-50%) ~ (I can't go past 400-450 else I got burned tips). Using silica also.
Second week of veg.

Thank! :)
[/QUOTE

How good is your ph meter? Recently calibrated? Only time I have seen crispy looking/feeling leaves and spots like your girls it was from ph issues/swings,
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etruthfx

etruthfx

Well-Known Member
Could be your humidity. Purple stems and rust like color are usually Calmag. The leaves look dark green so they are getting nutes, probably getting locked out. I would cut the N in half for now and check ph/eh until they recover. Some nutes like Ionic are self balancing which makes a big difference than the cheap stuff. Oh check to make sure your root zone is well taken care of too, Change the water often and make sure it's well airated. If everything is tuned maybe increase Calmag, usually can't give them too much anyway.
 
etruthfx

etruthfx

Well-Known Member
Also there is really bad inter chlorosis veining, a micronute deficiency. Try Soul Infinity or GH Floramicro, or similar. Basically Azomite trace elements and humic/fulvic acids.
 
Have2

Have2

Well-Known Member
Hollatchaboy said:
Never heard that before. My level used to drop halfway before I added solution back, approx. every 12 hours.
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yes, you should try to dig some info, but to sum up, roots are different if they are in water or in the air, so if your water level is always changing, the roots can't adapt correctly. steady level is what is optimum.
 
Have2

Have2

Well-Known Member
I calibrate it each month (blue lab) Ph was ultra stable and still ultra stable... It just started to climb a little bit since the ionic exchange due to vegetative state. (ph tends to rise in veg and lower in bloom).
 
Have2

Have2

Well-Known Member
etruthfx said:
Also there is really bad inter chlorosis veining, a micronute deficiency. Try Soul Infinity or GH Floramicro, or similar. Basically Azomite trace elements and humic/fulvic acids.
Click to expand...
I pumped few calmag... Next day.. Crazy shit! :D I guess the calmag deficiencies lockout the other nutrients, hence the micro's.

So, it was really just a calmag deficiency. Everything is back on track now.
 
Hollatchaboy

Hollatchaboy

Well-Known Member
Have2 said:
yes, you should try to dig some info, but to sum up, roots are different if they are in water or in the air, so if your water level is always changing, the roots can't adapt correctly. steady level is what is optimum.
Click to expand...
Makes sense. I believe that to be optimal, but not imperative. My plants did just fine, and I've seen others do the same with good results. Again, I'm not saying it's optimal. I'm sure results are better with stable water levels.
 
Have2

Have2

Well-Known Member
Offmymeds said:
pH fluctuation but could also be root rot. Can you see the roots?
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The roots are wonderfully white. I had root rot on my first grow and never ever again after that... I use one 950gph air pump for 6 buckets so plenty of air and I add hypochlorus acid at each water change and X days after that. I also change the water each 6-7 days just to make sure everything is balanced as they are feeding heavily.

Next run, I'll keep 1-1-1 for the first 2 weeks of veg (calmag-A-B). I think they grew about 2 inches in 22 hours since I pumped the calmag lol
 
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