Cheapest, simplest way of managing temps in a single DWC bucket

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
I've got pharma scales accurate to 0.01 (despite the early suggestion about chemistry, that's actually my job! Botany on the other hand... I've only just started learning) :)
if you can master chemistry, growing a plant is gonna be child's play for ya.
 

sven_lordy

Active Member
Let's hope so! My general philosophy is 'test everything'. I'm not hoping to produce a monster on my first grow - if it gives me enough smoke to last to my next harvest, I'll be happy. Just wish I'd started 2 plants so I had an experimental control... will definitely do that next time.

I stupidly bought into the logic that reservoir changes should happen weekly. Although that makes sense in the current growth stage, it was a complete waste in the first few weeks. Getting water levels right before there were many roots was a learning curve too... I'm going to experiment with a little fogponics next time.

Getting nutrient strength right has been the hardest part... it didn't help that I didn't know what was meant by 'first true leaves' on the GHE packaging! I read some papers on Silicon/Fulvic acid and thought would be stupid not to incorporate both. I'm using both in the tank, and also as a foliar, especially after any sort of stress (have topped and FIM'd to see how it responds to both). I've got very tight internodes on my plant and I defoliated heavily because the mass of leaves and the overlap was getting ridiculous. I didn't account for the fact that the nutritional needs would drop as a result, resulting in my second over-fertilisation.

I'm in a 0.8x0.8m tent, but still went for the TSW 2000 to optimise PPFD. Currently at 600, which seems to be as high as I can go without stressing the plant at the moment.

So yeah - I've been keeping a diary/journal so I can avoid these same mistakes next time. I've also learned how TDS fluctuations teaches whether nutrient level is too low, too high or just right.

As much as I've learned, I know it's probably nothing compared to the amount I need to learn when I switch over to flowering! I've got all the nutrients I wanted for that phase (Canna Boost, PK13/14, Flora Kleen, Final Part/Ripen) and recognise how important it is to time and dose all these things for optimal returns. I'm not expecting to get it right first time, but I'm expecting to be much better informed for round 2!
 
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rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
(Canna Boost, PK13/14, Flora Kleen, Final Part/Ripen)
not to dissuade you from trying all these products, but all you really need is a good base nutrient.

only thing i'm using this run is a 15-5-20 for veg and a 4-8-7 for bloom. and some beneficial bacteria. that's it. my EC is 0,8 with well water being 0.2 of that.

i run drain to waste hydro so my pH and EC are always in range. 1 feed once a day
 

sven_lordy

Active Member
The Canna Boost is a metabolism accelerator; I'm absolutely sold on using it. As for the rest? I didn't know when I bought them (naivety when visiting the hydro store), but they seem to be just NPK optimised for particular phases. I've no idea what's the Flora Kleen but it apparently helps leach the salts from the plant just prior to harvest.

If I'd done my learning before I started, as opposed to after I'd already bought in, I'd have just bought isolates of everything. It's going to take a couple of grows to go through all this stuff, but once I have, that's exactly what I'm going to do.
 

xtsho

Well-Known Member
I ran multiple reservoirs for flood and drain and had 10 DWC buckets going. I struggled with root issues at first especially using Botanicare which has organic ingredients. I went to dry nutrients/chemicals and household bleach for a sterile setup and never had an issue again even though at times the water temps got rather high. I think I was adding 3 - 4 ppm a couple days after mixing fresh nutrient solution and then every few days after that until I refilled everything. The reason I didn't add it with fresh batches was because tap water already contains chlorine but it does evaporate after a while so you need to replenish it.

Chlorine is actually used by plants so adding a small amount isn't going to have any adverse effects.
 

Hollatchaboy

Well-Known Member
I've pretty much did dwc the same way you did except I used a single 4 gallon bucket. I used hydroguard with res temps getting a high as 72 and my roots were always white. Was it because of the hydroguard? I dunno but until it doesnt work for me, I will keep using it.
 

Hollatchaboy

Well-Known Member
The Canna Boost is a metabolism accelerator; I'm absolutely sold on using it. As for the rest? I didn't know when I bought them (naivety when visiting the hydro store), but they seem to be just NPK optimised for particular phases. I've no idea what's the Flora Kleen but it apparently helps leach the salts from the plant just prior to harvest.

If I'd done my learning before I started, as opposed to after I'd already bought in, I'd have just bought isolates of everything. It's going to take a couple of grows to go through all this stuff, but once I have, that's exactly what I'm going to do.
I'll give you a suggestion when you're ready to do salts.... jacks 321
 

Hollatchaboy

Well-Known Member
Let's hope so! My general philosophy is 'test everything'. I'm not hoping to produce a monster on my first grow - if it gives me enough smoke to last to my next harvest, I'll be happy. Just wish I'd started 2 plants so I had an experimental control... will definitely do that next time.

I stupidly bought into the logic that reservoir changes should happen weekly. Although that makes sense in the current growth stage, it was a complete waste in the first few weeks. Getting water levels right before there were many roots was a learning curve too... I'm going to experiment with a little fogponics next time.

Getting nutrient strength right has been the hardest part... it didn't help that I didn't know what was meant by 'first true leaves' on the GHE packaging! I read some papers on Silicon/Fulvic acid and thought would be stupid not to incorporate both. I'm using both in the tank, and also as a foliar, especially after any sort of stress (have topped and FIM'd to see how it responds to both). I've got very tight internodes on my plant and I defoliated heavily because the mass of leaves and the overlap was getting ridiculous. I didn't account for the fact that the nutritional needs would drop as a result, resulting in my second over-fertilisation.

I'm in a 0.8x0.8m tent, but still went for the TSW 2000 to optimise PPFD. Currently at 600, which seems to be as high as I can go without stressing the plant at the moment.

So yeah - I've been keeping a diary/journal so I can avoid these same mistakes next time. I've also learned how TDS fluctuations teaches whether nutrient level is too low, too high or just right.

As much as I've learned, I know it's probably nothing compared to the amount I need to learn when I switch over to flowering! I've got all the nutrients I wanted for that phase (Canna Boost, PK13/14, Flora Kleen, Final Part/Ripen) and recognise how important it is to time and dose all these things for optimal returns. I'm not expecting to get it right first time, but I'm expecting to be much better informed for round 2!
If you're growing in dwc and you can get things somewhat right, you'll grow a monster regardless. Did it my first grow and i made many mistakes until I received guidance from some pretty cool people on here. You're gonna do just fine if you follow the advice from the right people on here. Some will try to steer you wrong so watch the replies. You'll know who knows what they're talking about.
 

cannabineer

Ursus marijanus
Chlorine. Either Poolshock (Calcium hypochlorite), Bleach (Sodium hypochlorite) or something like UC Roots (hypochlorous acid). That's how you manage temps, running things sterile.

I would highly advice against using anything alive in the rez if you're running small scale grow. You need a chiller and recirculation to do that optimally.

I would also advice against using peroxide. Many people are gonna suggest using H2O2. While it do work wonders for many, it's easy to overdo.
Whoever is selling hypochlorous acid isn’t being honest. Hypochlorite needs alkaline pH (>11) to be stable. It’s gone within hours at neutral pH.
 

sven_lordy

Active Member
I've learned lots! Thanks all. @rkymtnman I just built myself an NPK calculator and can mirror your NPK with 30% Micro, 60% Grow 10% Bloom.

Rhizo will be coming out and chlorine will be going in... going to keep with 2ml/l fulvic and 0.6ml/l on liquid silicon. Will be interesting to see how my little girl responds!
 

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
The Canna Boost is a metabolism accelerator
maybe yes, maybe no. is that per their website? or do they have scientific proof?

since you are a smart guy, check out Emerson effect if you really want to boost your metabolism. it increases photosynthesis and it's a scientific fact.
 

sven_lordy

Active Member
Not heard of Emerson effect before... was just doing a little reading and it's fascinating! It's certainly got me thinking about supplemental lighting (TSW is pretty good for 680nm range but nothing past that). I'm definitely going to do some further research.

Canna Boost includes vitamins, aminos and polysaccharides, but it's the high oligosaccharide levels that caught my attention. I've read numerous papers which have gone some way to demonstrate that these compounds have an impact ln the metabolic rate of flower production, and also impact the level of essential oils/terpenes in the final flowering phases. Coupled with what I've read about trichomes being made primarily from silicon (hence my eagerness to incorporate it from my first grow), it seems to be pretty solidly based research.

I've read a number of papers on the oligosaccharide subject and it certainly seems legit. Seaweed oligosaccharides seem to have the most profound effect on cell division and flower formation and from what I've read, Canna were early researchers and adopters in the use of seaweed extracts to enhance various elements of root formation and flower production. That's also why I went for the Rhizotonic.
 

sven_lordy

Active Member
Seems I was wrong.... the red peak is 660nm on the TSW. That said, it does venture into the 680 range. Interestingly, it also incorporates far red (730nm) diodes in the rig so it seems I'm getting SOME of the emerson effect already. Looking at the spectrum map I don't doubt some supplemental far red would act as a boost, far red being a smaller component of the overall par output.

Just went searching a puck out in the UK; very reasonably priced if it does what it says it does. Have you seen the Migro Array? With the red osram diodes 680nm is the largest spectral peak. Coupled with the puck you found I think it could be a real winner as a combo.
 
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