Cheapest, simplest way of managing temps in a single DWC bucket

sven_lordy

Active Member
Most people say 64f-68f (17.7c - 20c). Some say that below 64.5f (18c) metabolism slows, and above 20c increases nutrient availability due to lower water density. But 64-68 is optimal for inhibiting pathogens/bacteria in the bucket, which is the main point.
 

mytwhyt

Well-Known Member
Changing frozen bottles twice a day works well, but it sure gets to be a real pia.. You have to insulate the containers.. I've seen several successful grows using an Iceprobe to cool a single 5 gal bucket.. I let my start in that direction fall apart when the plants died. As far as i got is on the following page of that thread...
 

sven_lordy

Active Member
Received my pool shock today! Thought I'd go with 4ppm as the first treatment, as I've actually got quite a lot of very small fragments of broken-off root hairs in the bucket.

Just a last couple of questions @rkymtnman or @Wastei

1) How long between doses? 24hr or 48hr?
2) I'm assuming I can let my water temps climb more given that I'm guaranteed algae/pathogen-free. What would you recommend as a maximum?

Many thanks!
 

sven_lordy

Active Member
With regards to DO, I've got more bubbles through the tank than required based on volume. I'm using a 100mm disc, which is sat directly under the root mass... so even if DO drops, I know the air is accessible in the water where it matters most. I'm running a gap of approx. 1.5" from bottom of net pot to top of nutrient solution. Plant should be getting all the air it needs
 

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
as I've actually got quite a lot of very small fragments of broken-off root hairs in the bucket.
are they off colored or still white? i would give them a 4ppm dose twice in the first week. to make sure that organic matter is not loaded with bad bacteria. and actually, cna you get rid of the root matter first? that's your best bet.
 

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
I'm assuming I can let my water temps climb more given that I'm guaranteed algae/pathogen-free. What would you recommend as a maximum?
you can but water has more DO the lower the temps. so try to keep it under 75 (68 would be better if possible). even when i ran a chiller, i still used shock.
 

sven_lordy

Active Member
Thanks - will keep with my current regime for water changes then and still maintain the 64-68 range.

Roots aren't pure white, but I'm using Flora Tripart (apparently, this always dies the roots slightly) and have also been using Rhizotonic. There's zero funky smell coming from the roots (but a nice hashy smell starting from the leaves! Even though still in veg), and the roots are very healthy. Would take a pic but have currently got a lot of LST going on!

Thanks to the Rhizo I've got lots of roots - I think the bits which have come loose are purely as a result of overzealous stirring when I've been adding top-ups of nutrient solution (or PH down) and stirring in. Even the loose bits have been clean-looking

Will take some photos later this evening so you can see what I've got going on :)
 

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
Thanks - will keep with my current regime for water changes then and still maintain the 64-68 range.

Roots aren't pure white, but I'm using Flora Tripart (apparently, this always dies the roots slightly) and have also been using Rhizotonic. There's zero funky smell coming from the roots (but a nice hashy smell starting from the leaves! Even though still in veg), and the roots are very healthy. Would take a pic but have currently got a lot of LST going on!

Thanks to the Rhizo I've got lots of roots - I think the bits which have come loose are purely as a result of overzealous stirring when I've been adding top-ups of nutrient solution (or PH down) and stirring in. Even the loose bits have been clean-looking

Will take some photos later this evening so you can see what I've got going on :)
if you have a second bucket, i'd try to strain out all the small bits in your current res. you'll be fighting an uphill battle if you have chunks of dead stuff in your res.
 

Lenin1917

Well-Known Member
I've been lucky so far just adding nutrient solution 1/2-3/4 gallon daily in each 5 gallon bucket and changing the reservoir when making scheduled nutrient changes(dose/pk booster etc) no chlorine or anything like that roots are clean plants are healthy.
 

sven_lordy

Active Member
I tried that but when I scrogged the plant it made it real hard to switch the buckets out. Lol
Lol... yeah I was wondering how to deal with things when I get to that stage! Was hoping that the silicon would strengthen the branches enough to not need the netting!? Not holding my breath! Guess that's another reason why this advice (using chlorine in whatever guise) is good advice; I'll be able to do changes but not clean-outs when I get to those latter stages (feels like forever away at the moment)
 

Hollatchaboy

Well-Known Member
The netting is more to spresd out the tops for more even distribution of light but it does make a good trellis for holding up heavy buds. I put a drain in the bottom of my bucket to empty it and a hole in the lid to fill it. That way I never had to lift the plant out. Scrubbing the bucket in between res changes is pointless imo. As long as you don't have algae or any diseases no need to scrub bucket til after flower
Lol... yeah I was wondering how to deal with things when I get to that stage! Was hoping that the silicon would strengthen the branches enough to not need the netting!? Not holding my breath! Guess that's another reason why this advice (using chlorine in whatever guise) is good advice; I'll be able to do changes but not clean-outs when I get to those latter stages (feels like forever away at the moment)
 

Hollatchaboy

Well-Known Member
The netting is more to spresd out the tops for more even distribution of light but it does make a good trellis for holding up heavy buds. I put a drain in the bottom of my bucket to empty it and a hole in the lid to fill it. That way I never had to lift the plant out. Scrubbing the bucket in between res changes is pointless imo. As long as you don't have algae or any diseases no need to scrub bucket til after flower
Next one I'm gonna use a control bucket and kinda rdwc it. That way everything can be done from the control bucket.
 

sven_lordy

Active Member
I bought a bucket with a 'fill level' pipe. The water never gets a chance to get stagnant, as that's where I syphon 2l of 'hot' water before adding the 2l of chilled. It'll make for a useful emptying port by the time I get to that point
 

Hollatchaboy

Well-Known Member
Lol... yeah I was wondering how to deal with things when I get to that stage! Was hoping that the silicon would strengthen the branches enough to not need the netting!? Not holding my breath! Guess that's another reason why this advice (using chlorine in whatever guise) is good advice; I'll be able to do changes but not clean-outs when I get to those latter stages (feels like forever away at the moment)
Don't worry... it's gonna start happening so fast you'll get overwhelmed. Be careful what you wish for. :bigjoint::bigjoint:
 

Hollatchaboy

Well-Known Member
I've been lucky so far just adding nutrient solution 1/2-3/4 gallon daily in each 5 gallon bucket and changing the reservoir when making scheduled nutrient changes(dose/pk booster etc) no chlorine or anything like that roots are clean plants are healthy.
Nice.. what temp you keep your water at?
 
Top