Clones and 4' 8 bulb t5 ho

My clones are taking their sweet time rooting. I have them in a 10x20 tray with humidity dome under a 4' 8 bulb t5 ho. They are growing in the little hockey pucks that you hydrate and I'm feeding with ph 6.5 water with superthrive. I have a heat mat under the tray and they've been in there for 2.5 weeks with no roots showing through the pucks but they are still standing up and are green. Too much light? Should I not still be misting with water? I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong here. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.
 

stoneyluv

Well-Known Member
be patient... some take a long time to root. your conditions sound fine. what strain are they?
have you cloned other strains in that setup at all?

I only spray the dome not the plants.
 

frmrboi

Well-Known Member
I can't see anything your doing wrong. I've found it takes a minimum 10 days for any sign of rooting so you may have succes but they haven't reached the outer walls of the "pucks" (I prefer using pure perlite in small pots)
some strains take a long time root, Sativas are the fastest.
 

stoneyluv

Well-Known Member
I can't see anything your doing wrong. I've found it takes a minimum 10 days for any sign of rooting so you may have succes but they haven't reached the outer walls of the "pucks" (I prefer using pure perlite in small pots)
some strains take a long time root, Sativas are the fastest.
would you mind sharing your perlite technique? I am interested....
 
Well. My patience is running out so I pulled one of them out of the hydrated plug and the end of the clone was bulged and brown, zero roots. I recut all the ends of the clones, reapplied clone. And reinserted into pucks. We'll see what happens.
 

stoneyluv

Well-Known Member
I always seem to have good luck when i catch them in time and re-cut them... i hope you do also!!
 

nomaninsf

Well-Known Member
You have too much light on them my friend. And get rid of that heating pad. Here's my method, I'm near 100% survival rate. Out of the last 200 clones I took only 1 didn't make it.

Take rockwool cubes. Mix half strength sensi bloom A&B or another A&B bloom formula, half strength. I use 4ml of A and 4ml of B. Add 3ml per gallon of thrive alive or another b-1 supplement. Add rhizotonic at half strength. It usually comes out to about 550ppm's. Mix solution and pH the solution to 4.8pH and presoak the cubes for a few hours. I like to soak for 24 hours. 4.8pH may seem low but most people don't know that rockwool is high in alkaline. After your soak you will notice that your solution will have risen to about 5.5.

Next take your cuttings. Cut 1/4 inch below node (at least 3 nodes down from top). Cut at 45 degree angle with cut part of stem on opposite side of node. Starting at node, scrape the stem so the outer skin comes off about half way around the stem. Don't go too deep to the point where you are seeing the inner white part of the stem. The scraped away skin is where the roots will grow from. Remove leaves that are close to bottom of cutting. I like to leave two node sets of leaves on my clones. Cutting the tips isn't necessary and doesn't help the plants no matter what people say. The only reason for it is if you have a crowded tray and need light to penetrate to lower clones. Personally I only like to do 25 clones per tray so they all get enough light. Once you remove the leaves dip your cutting into Clonex and swirl it around for a couple seconds so you have a nice coating of blue goo on the end of your stem. I have used rootech, olivia's and clonex and clonex has given me the best results so far.

Next insert your cutting into the rockwool cube. *** Don't use the premade hole in the cube! *** this is important. You want the clone cutting to be in there snug. The holes often leave gaps between the stem and the rockwool. This is bad for rooting and also invites mold and disease. If the cutting isn't strong enough to penetrate the rockwool it isn't a cutting worth taking.

Once all your clones are taken and in the tray foliar feed them with 15ml per gallon of rhizotonic. Be sure to spray the tops and bottoms of the leaves. Spray the inside of your humidity dome and cover the tray.

Place the tray under a single t5 or t8. The lights with multiple t5 bulbs (4-8 bulbs) are too strong for what the plants need at this stage. ***DO NOT use heating pads for cuttings in rockwool*** You don't need a heating pad. Keep the temp inside the dome between 65-75. Try not to have too much fluctuation. I keep mine right at 70 degrees. Don't open vents or lift humidity dome for at least 7 days. I usually go 10 days and check for roots. Keep the humidity dome on until you have roots or your cuttings will wilt and die. Once you see root growth you can move cutting under stronger t5's until transplant. Until roots form though they only need a little light.

BE PATIENT AND BE STERILE. I have had strains that take 7-10 days to root and I've had others take up to 21 days. You just have to be patient and wait. Use a brand new razor or scalpel. I like to light mine with a flame, wipe off, and let cool before taking cuttings just to be safe. Also make sure your humidity dome and tray have been cleaned to avoid molds. Use bleach or alcohol and make sure you rinse all off before putting your cuttings inside.

People will say use only water, lift the hood and give them fresh air everyday, mist them once a day, cut all big leaves in half, flush your mother the week before harvest, and the list goes on. That is all false if you want the best results. I stand by this system tried and true. As long as you have healthy, disease and pest free, mothers to start with you can't go wrong with this system.
 

nomaninsf

Well-Known Member
the end of the clone was bulged and brown, zero roots.
Sorry to hear that. Used to happen to me all the time. Yellowish brown and plumped up on the whole part that was dipped in the cloning gel. Finally found out temp was too high. You will have to take new clones at that point. They are unrecoverable at that stage. I've tried to bring back before with zero success.
 
Awesome tips noman. I was thinking it was getting a little too warm with the heat pad and the heat coming of the t5's. I wonderif I could just turn the t5 off and remove all but 2 bulbs and turn it back on so I don't overwhelm the cuttings. Copacetic?
 

nomaninsf

Well-Known Member
Awesome tips noman. I was thinking it was getting a little too warm with the heat pad and the heat coming of the t5's. I wonderif I could just turn the t5 off and remove all but 2 bulbs and turn it back on so I don't overwhelm the cuttings. Copacetic?
You would be fine with one bulb. The problem is if you are using the same light as me, if you take out one bulb none work. Give it a try and see if it works. Definitely 1 bulb with no heating pad is the way to go. I promise.
 

nomaninsf

Well-Known Member
p.s. It really sucks to say but you're going to have to start fresh with new cuttings. Is your mother big enough to produce more?
 

BigBudE

Well-Known Member
Ive alway's found the heating pad helps tremendously since ive had mine as long as you have a tempatur control on it set around 78 degrees. Ive done side by side when I first got mine with the same strain in the different domes and with the heating pad side there were roots a few days earlier than the dome without. I used my well water wich has a PH of 6.5 with no problems. Every clone I cut always survived exept when i didnt have the temerature control part for the heating pad and it got 120 degrees somehow andmelted part of the dome (faulty pad), Even without the heating pad they survived
But to each his own and if hes had a 199 out of 200 sucsess rate, It be hard to argue against.
If you ask 100 people you will have at least 70 different ways of doing the same thing different.
BigBudE
 
Ahh crap noman. Well according to what you say I will have to trash the clones. Bummer part is I have no mother. All my mature plants are almost 3 weeks into flower. Good thing is a friend of mine has a bunch of extra grape ape clones he is willing to give me that are well established. I will mother the best looking one and follow your suggestions to the t. You really seem to k ow what you're talking about. Thanks for all the info again. It is much appreciated!
 

nomaninsf

Well-Known Member
But to each his own and if hes had a 199 out of 200 sucsess rate, It be hard to argue against.
If you ask 100 people you will have at least 70 different ways of doing the same thing different.
BigBudE
I can't take any credit for the method I described. It was passed onto me by a friend. I have tried ez-cloners, rapid rooters, and rockwool with olivias, rootech, and clonex in the past years. My favorite combo has been rockwool presoaked with thrive alive at 5.8pH and clonex gel. It took my friends advice and tried his method and have since abandoned my old way. It's a few extra steps but I compared it to my old method side by side and had roots forming 5 days sooner and had a better success rate.
 

nomaninsf

Well-Known Member
Ahh crap noman. Well according to what you say I will have to trash the clones. Bummer part is I have no mother. All my mature plants are almost 3 weeks into flower. Good thing is a friend of mine has a bunch of extra grape ape clones he is willing to give me that are well established. I will mother the best looking one and follow your suggestions to the t. You really seem to k ow what you're talking about. Thanks for all the info again. It is much appreciated!
How many nodes are left on your clones? If they were really tall clones you can cut 1/4" below the next node up and replant.
 

DrFever

New Member
its all bout being sterile when u clone i add 1 percent to my mixture when i flood my cubes of peroxide i add a little greens 0 - 4 - 0 as well as superthrive in my tub
i also lower my ph to 6.0 to 6.2 i use 18" sunblaster flores 2200 lumens per
runnin in parallel one switch turns on all
warming blanket is used
I'm on day 4 of cloneing will let you all know how it went
 
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