Closed Grow Environment / Traditional Room Hybrid

I am doing a major remodel to an indoor garden.

my plan is to convert a room 26'x14' into two rooms.
a flower room (18x14) with 12 1000w DE gavitas
a veg room (8x14') with 3 1000w DE

I already have a central air con unit ducted to both zones.
both rooms would share a wall.

I want to make a closed grow environment (CGE) room.. but also have traditional active intake and exhaust fans.
having both the air con/co2 burner and the traditional ventilation system .,, I will be able to cool the room in the hot summers with the A/C and then use the cold outside air in the winter to cool the rooms, instead of using aircon in the dead of winter. also have been reading about ppl having more success with CGE rooms while running an exhaust fan, which is dimmed down to a slow fan speed, just creating negative pressure.


the intake to pull fresh air for both rooms seems to be a window..
and a hole in the wall on the opposite end for the exhaust..

but where should the veg room exhaust to?

should both rooms pull air directly from outside?
and should both rooms exhaust directly outside?

my plan is for both rooms to have their own co2 burner.
i know typically you should just send that old air outside, unless you need that warm air to heat your house..
also going to be rich in c02... is there a better use than sending it directly outside/pulling from directly outside?

i want to build this room right the first time (ok ive already remodeled this room 10 times..) but i wanna get it PERFECT this time!

these rooms will be in a garage/shop.. heating for rest of the garage is not a concern. avoiding any moisture damage is a major concern.

also any problems with just using panda film to cover framed walls with insulation? instead of using plywood or sheetrock?

thanks for your input!
 
here is a little model of the space.
two windows on the left side (yellow)
to the right of the space is more garage. the other sides=exterior walls
 

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good point!
First time you forget and lean or trip and try to catch yourself and you end up going through the wall you will regret that move. Otherwise go for it.
but i actually will only be able to lean against one wall, i have some old plywood sheets, so i will use them on that wall.. and the other walls will be impossible to lean against as flood trays will be blocking them. thanks for pointing that out!

my ceiling is already sheet rocked with attic space above.. the sheetrock is swiss cheese from all the holes ive cut into it trying different setups..
poorly sealed with pieces of sheetrock..
i am hoping i can leave the sheetrock on the ceiling... pandafilm over it.. so it looks clean and seals the room better... then go up in the attic and improve the insulation. (my renters allowed a rat infestation) the insulation in the attic is unfaced.

i can only exhaust out the windows pictured and the far wall where the flower room exhaust is shown.
i guess i run 20 feet of ducting to send my veg room exhaust to the outside?
sending the exhaust into the flower room would cause positive pressure...
 
I guess you are suggesting that wall paneling? what is with the heat exchanger stuff?

panel looks interesting.. I already have enough plywood to use on walls i might be leaning against.. besides some added insulation, structure and sound is there any reason just using panda would be a problem?
 

Drop That Sound

Well-Known Member
That paneling is the ultimate finish IMO. No worries about it breaking down or becoming a problem to keep clean. Very reflective as well. About 15 bucks cheaper per panel than FRP, and still has a slight cracked ice texture on one side. I prefer to use the contact adhesive spray I listed above to install them as opposed to the trowel on adhesives they recommend.

EDIT: Suppose you could just spray the wall studs with the adhesive, and stick them right in place. Sure you could lean into one as they are pretty durable, and could span the gap no problem. I would at least put a plywood strip going all the way around the rooms, right about the height you would put a hand through if you tripped...
 
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That paneling is the ultimate finish IMO. No worries about it breaking down or becoming a problem to keep clean. Very reflective as well. About 15 bucks cheaper per panel than FRP, and still has a slight cracked ice texture on one side. I prefer to use the contact adhesive spray I listed above to install them as opposed to the trowel on adhesives they recommend.

EDIT: Suppose you could just spray the wall studs with the adhesive, and stick them right in place. Sure you could lean into one as they are pretty durable, and could span the gap no problem. I would at least put a plywood strip going all the way around the rooms, right about the height you would put a hand through if you tripped...
ok thanks those are interesting.. I will research them some more.. it says those panels are .06 inches thick.. that can't be right...

I have decided I should use something with better insulation value than just panda film covering the insulated wood framed bays..
either sheetrock or these panels you are recommending.

would you still lay panda film over these panels or just use them bare.. i just want to make sure i am getting the best light reflection as it seems to be a major concern for Gavita DE.
 

Drop That Sound

Well-Known Member
They are semi transparent, so I would cover with some felt paper or something first, otherwise light would bleed through.. They are pretty thin, and can be rolled up easily.
 

Drop That Sound

Well-Known Member
5mm underlayment plywood used to be cheap, like $10 a sheet... Probably shot up quite a bit though. They have the tempered masonite like utility panels for pretty cheap, white painted ones too.
 
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