Club 315w lec

KushyMcKush

Well-Known Member
Nope, no and no lol

315W is the actual watts used by the lamp, maybe 340 with ballast.

Kelvin temperature gives an idea of color and spectrum, but it's only a very general guide.

The reasons for its efficiency include both that its spectrum output is superior to HPS, plus the low frequency square wave ballast tech. This drives the lamp more efficiently.

Folks seem to be coming to agreement that a 315W CMH system is worth maybe 500W of HPS in equivalent growth performance.
Oh ok, that makes more sense. Thanks for the knowledge! :D
 

WattSaver

Well-Known Member
It is half the watts, but doesn't the use of a ceramic arc tube instead of quartz allow the bulb to burn at a much hotter tempurature? Isn't this why the 315 can be compared to a 600w hps/mh? It would still be less heat of course only being 315w, but wouldn't the temps be similar? Or does this refer to the color tepurature (kelvin rating)... Though kelvin is the color temp, not hest produced so that may not apply.
The difference in the amount of heat thrown off between a hps and a ceramic bulb has to do with the % of wattage that is converted to light and % converted to heat. The hps sports a higher % of heat compared to the ceramic bulb. I haven't used this 315W t12 bulb yet but have 6 yrs of use with the Philips 400W CMH retro white. My hood has has 3 sockets 2 are 400w the center is 1k. Running the 2 400's puts off way less than half the heat of running the 1 super hps.

I doubt if the heat factor has little to do with the ballast that drives the bulb. It has to do with the construction of the bulb.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Great cri on the 315 too. Takes nice pictures under it
Have you ever seen those funny fuzzy dark lines in some pictures week HID lights? That's because those lamps are driven by magnetic ballasts, running on 60Hz AC. The lamps are actually flickering, and those dark lines represent the time it spends NOT making light!

The 315W CMH lights are driven at a similar low frequency, but in this case the ballast generates a square wave. Long story short, this one (relatively expensive) change in ballast design is responsible for all of the increased performance of the technology, by eliminating all that time the lamp spends not running at peak output. No more dark lines means much more light for the very same watts and thus higher efficiency.

I'm hearing of several manufacturers coming out with low frequency square wave or LFSW ballasts that run at 1000W. I'm about to hook an 860W CDM Allstart lamp up to one in the next few days...

Anyone interested in seeing what happens next? :fire:
 

Evil-Mobo

Well-Known Member
Have you ever seen those funny fuzzy dark lines in some pictures week HID lights? That's because those lamps are driven by magnetic ballasts, running on 60Hz AC. The lamps are actually flickering, and those dark lines represent the time it spends NOT making light!

The 315W CMH lights are driven at a similar low frequency, but in this case the ballast generates a square wave. Long story short, this one (relatively expensive) change in ballast design is responsible for all of the increased performance of the technology, by eliminating all that time the lamp spends not running at peak output. No more dark lines means much more light for the very same watts and thus higher efficiency.

I'm hearing of several manufacturers coming out with low frequency square wave or LFSW ballasts that run at 1000W. I'm about to hook an 860W CDM Allstart lamp up to one in the next few days...

Anyone interested in seeing what happens next? :fire:
I am :)
 

KushyMcKush

Well-Known Member
Have you ever seen those funny fuzzy dark lines in some pictures week HID lights? That's because those lamps are driven by magnetic ballasts, running on 60Hz AC. The lamps are actually flickering, and those dark lines represent the time it spends NOT making light!

The 315W CMH lights are driven at a similar low frequency, but in this case the ballast generates a square wave. Long story short, this one (relatively expensive) change in ballast design is responsible for all of the increased performance of the technology, by eliminating all that time the lamp spends not running at peak output. No more dark lines means much more light for the very same watts and thus higher efficiency.

I'm hearing of several manufacturers coming out with low frequency square wave or LFSW ballasts that run at 1000W. I'm about to hook an 860W CDM Allstart lamp up to one in the next few days...

Anyone interested in seeing what happens next? :fire:
This is fantastic!! I knew a bit about these before buying one as Im kind of an obsessive researcher on almost everything I buy, but having the technical information explained in a way thats a little easier to comprehend is always appreciated! As a first time grower, all of the new lighting technology thats coming out is fascinating to me and something I want to learn more about. Im actually looking into building a cob led pannel for my next grow to either use on conjunction with my lec, or maybe as a veg light. Im not sure yet, but I mostly want to do it for the project and to experiment/run a side by side with.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
This is fantastic!! I knew a bit about these before buying one as Im kind of an obsessive researcher on almost everything I buy, but having the technical information explained in a way thats a little easier to comprehend is always appreciated! As a first time grower, all of the new lighting technology thats coming out is fascinating to me and something I want to learn more about. Im actually looking into building a cob led pannel for my next grow to either use on conjunction with my lec, or maybe as a veg light. Im not sure yet, but I mostly want to do it for the project and to experiment/run a side by side with.
The debate about whether COB LED is better than light bulbs is over. The only question is cost.

My COB grown product is larger, tighter, frostier, heavier, smellier, harder and more resinous than anything I've ever grown under a light bulb. No one who sees the product disagrees.

Any questions?
 

KushyMcKush

Well-Known Member
The debate about whether COB LED is better than light bulbs is over. The only question is cost.

My COB grown product is larger, tighter, frostier, heavier, smellier, harder and more resinous than anything I've ever grown under a light bulb. No one who sees the product disagrees.

Any questions?
And this is what Ive been seeing. I don't think theres any question of if I will build one, just when. I just need to do more research into it as far as assembly, components, colors... all of the options I guess. ive only done minimal research into building diy pannels, but theres no argument from me questioning the quality. I can't say for certain I've ever had product that was grown under led's, only that what I've seen online looks grade-A.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
And this is what Ive been seeing. I don't think theres any question of if I will build one, just when. I just need to do more research into it as far as assembly, components, colors... all of the options I guess. ive only done minimal research into building diy pannels, but theres no argument from me questioning the quality. I can't say for certain I've ever had product that was grown under led's, only that what I've seen online looks grade-A.
Even my fuckups make weight and look good, lol
 

KushyMcKush

Well-Known Member
The debate about whether COB LED is better than light bulbs is over. The only question is cost.

My COB grown product is larger, tighter, frostier, heavier, smellier, harder and more resinous than anything I've ever grown under a light bulb. No one who sees the product disagrees.

Any questions?
Actually, I do have a few questions. First, can I see some of your COB LED grows... Or better yet, your build(s)? Or link me to any journals you may have? Second, if you have any links to build guides that would be the best for a 4x4 area, Id like to see more to kind of get an idea of what I want to build. Ive found several that are pretty good, but I can always use more. I found a few Ive been liking to model after in particular:
-https://www.thcfarmer.com/community/threads/diy-led-with-cobs-small-medium-and-large-grows.64252/
-
http://howtogrowmarijuana.com/diy-led-grow-light/

I have many more saved, and when Im ready Hopefully I can find someone to kind of consult with me and guide me through it. I was originally looking at the Mars2 1600 or 2x900, Platinum LED, and G8, but ultimately decided that if I was going to go LED, the best was out of my price range, and when I found out about these incredible DIY pannels people are making for around the cost or less of a low quality brand name one, I knew I would go this route someday. The LEC was the best in my price range that was ready to plug and go, and I am loving it. Its an incredible light... But these leds are just too tempting.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Actually, I do have a few questions. First, can I see some of your COB LED grows... Or better yet, your build(s)? Or link me to any journals you may have? Second, if you have any links to build guides that would be the best for a 4x4 area, Id like to see more to kind of get an idea of what I want to build. Ive found several that are pretty good, but I can always use more. I found a few Ive been liking to model after in particular:
-https://www.thcfarmer.com/community/threads/diy-led-with-cobs-small-medium-and-large-grows.64252/
-
http://howtogrowmarijuana.com/diy-led-grow-light/

I have many more saved, and when Im ready Hopefully I can find someone to kind of consult with me and guide me through it. I was originally looking at the Mars2 1600 or 2x900, Platinum LED, and G8, but ultimately decided that if I was going to go LED, the best was out of my price range, and when I found out about these incredible DIY pannels people are making for around the cost or less of a low quality brand name one, I knew I would go this route someday. The LEC was the best in my price range that was ready to plug and go, and I am loving it. Its an incredible light... But these leds are just too tempting.
There's an LED lighting section on this very forum that's got some of the best minds in the business contributing regularly. I'd go there and read up!
 

KushyMcKush

Well-Known Member
Im not sure if it was this thread or not, but I had asked about maybe building a small single pannel led to add a little more coverage in my current 3.5'x4.5' room. I was trying to find something to hang next to my 315 lec to add a bit more light because I hear most people say that these are really best for a 3x3 in flower... Some even say 2.5x2.5, but most seem to agree that a 315 im a 4x4 is stretching it a bit and may not get the most out of the space. The diy leds intrigued me because they are low heat, inexpensive, and incredibly productive. I also thought it might be cool to build, like I said, a small led with one or two lights and then be able to add onto it later... Ive found some cool modular builds that can easily be added or subtracted to as needed.
 

KushyMcKush

Well-Known Member
There's an LED lighting section on this very forum that's got some of the best minds in the business contributing regularly. I'd go there and read up!
Oh, Ive been over there quite a bit recently. You just seem to know what your doing and wanted to chat with you a bit. I see Im kind of hijacking this thread with all this led talk :/ Ill head over there and bounce some ideas around. Thanks.
 

WattSaver

Well-Known Member
The debate about whether COB LED is better than light bulbs is over. The only question is cost.

My COB grown product is larger, tighter, frostier, heavier, smellier, harder and more resinous than anything I've ever grown under a light bulb. No one who sees the product disagrees.

Any questions?
I've got a question, with the LED does the spectrum run out of the visible range hi and lo into the infra red and ultra violet? The ceramic bulbs do run off the visible scale on both ends and the plants do use the UV and IR light.

2nd question have they developed a diode that is true pure white, or do they still use a phosphorus coating to achieve white light?
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
I've got a question, with the LED does the spectrum run out of the visible range hi and lo into the infra red and ultra violet? The ceramic bulbs do run off the visible scale on both ends and the plants do use the UV and IR light.

2nd question have they developed a diode that is true pure white, or do they still use a phosphorus coating to achieve white light?
Whatever UV or IR HID bulbs may put off is negligible. Plants grow better under COB LED. It's really a face value, take or leave it kind of statement.
 

Rooster96

Member
Have you ever seen those funny fuzzy dark lines in some pictures week HID lights? That's because those lamps are driven by magnetic ballasts, running on 60Hz AC. The lamps are actually flickering, and those dark lines represent the time it spends NOT making light!

The 315W CMH lights are driven at a similar low frequency, but in this case the ballast generates a square wave. Long story short, this one (relatively expensive) change in ballast design is responsible for all of the increased performance of the technology, by eliminating all that time the lamp spends not running at peak output. No more dark lines means much more light for the very same watts and thus higher efficiency.

I'm hearing of several manufacturers coming out with low frequency square wave or LFSW ballasts that run at 1000W. I'm about to hook an 860W CDM Allstart lamp up to one in the next few days...

Anyone interested in seeing what happens next? :fire:
Are you going to share here or in the led thread? Because I am very interested!
 
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