Club 600

Bobotrank

Well-Known Member
Nice Job, Dutchie. I'd be happy to give you any pointers on where to go when it comes time to spend money on artistic schooling. Shoot me a PM if you ever have any questions.

D-S-T... if you ever need a bru to keep your little ladies warm at night, I'd snuggle the shyt outta them!
 

duchieman

Well-Known Member
Nice Job, Dutchie. I'd be happy to give you any pointers on where to go when it comes time to spend money on artistic schooling. Shoot me a PM if you ever have any questions.

D-S-T... if you ever need a bru to keep your little ladies warm at night, I'd snuggle the shyt outta them!
I will definitely do that, Thanks.
 

bassman999

Well-Known Member
Has anyone found a NICE light meter? I would like an easy to use, quality light meter. Any experience out there?
I have my trusty 3-in-1 light-ph-moisture meter for $9.99...lol It gives me a rough idea of the light I have, but if you are trying to be precise this is in not gonna serve that purpose.
 

duchieman

Well-Known Member
If anyone is interested I would like to follow up on my earlier post about EM's (essential microorganisms). I found this article on their site that gives good basic info.

First off in the FAQ


What's the difference between EM/AEM and Compost Tea?
While EM, AEM, and Compost Tea are made differently, they have similar benefits and compliment each other beautifully. For a comparative summary of these products, see the March 2011 Newsletter.



Which products to use?






Choosing which products to use can be a daunting task. They all look so interesting, and many of them seem to be fairly similar. If you've read my product recipes article, you'll have seen that I use them all, because they all bring distinct and incredible benefits (that's why I sell them), but I'd like to summarize here the key differences between them for those who want to start with just a couple of products.
Microorganisms

The 3 microbial products are:

  • Effective microorganisms (EM)
  • Compost tea
  • Mycorrhizal fungi
The main confusion for most people is the difference between EM and compost tea.
Effective Microorganisms are cultured in a lab under controlled conditions, therefore it is an inoculant made up of a specific set of just a handful of species of very important microorganisms. Theses microbes are mainly fermenting microbes, such as lactic acid bacteria (as in yogurt) and yeast (as in bread, beer, and wine). They can thrive in environments with regular oxygen levels or with lower oxygen levels. They metabolize and break things down differently than most microbes. Some of the microbes in there can even take toxins and turn them into nutrients. You can buy this product all ready to use or you can ferment the mother culture into 20 times more than the original amount, much like yogurt. This process takes at least a couple of weeks, preferably a month.
Compost tea, on the other hand, is a mixture of a huge array of mostly aerobic microbes (they need oxygen) extracted from a very small amount of high quality compost. It's not as controlled of a product (not made in a lab), but it is much more diverse. Whereas EM might have 5-20 species of microbes that are specifically included (there can actually be quite a few "wild" microbes that are allowed in - over 100 - but they are not the main focus), compost tea will hopefully have thousands. This process takes 12 hours to a couple of days.
That's just a brief description of the differences between the two. For our purposes, both products provide a lot of the same benefits, albeit sometimes through different biological processes. You can start by trying out either, and eventually you may want to use both.
Mycorrhizal fungi are a very specific class of fungi that wrap around and penetrate plant roots and form a relationship whereby both the fungi and the plants benefit. They are incredibly important for plant health and are believed to have been critical in the evolution of trees. They do a lot of things, but are often specifically credited with bringing water, phosphorus, and other trace minerals to the plant in exchange for sugar, in addition to helping to protect the plant from root-feeding microbes. They can be purchased as a powder and should be applied directly to the roots or seed or in the planting hole whenever you are planting. Every time! They can also be watered into porous soils, and are often used after aeration of turf.
Biostimulants

The 5 biostimulants are:

  • sea minerals
  • liquid kelp
  • liquid fish hydrolysate
  • humic acids
  • organic blackstrap molasses
The first 3 particularly appear very similar, and I suppose they are in some ways. Here's the basics.
Sea minerals is very concentrated, mineral-rich ocean water from deep in the Pacific Ocean. It is so incredibly full of nutrients and life that it is the most incredible broad-spectrum product to spray directly on your plants and soil. There has been a lot of research and the benefits are unbelievable. This is often my first choice for a biostimulant.
Liquid kelp is different. It has many of the same nutrients, but we use it for its natural plant growth hormones that stimulate many processes in plants. We only apply 20ml/1000sqft, so although the nutrients are beneficial, it's really all about the hormones. Regular applications improve so many aspects of plant growth.
Liquid fish hydrolysate brings in more nutrients like the sea minerals, but it is particularly high in nitrogen and available phosphorus and potassium. It also has whole proteins and enzymes. It has been mixed with kelp for many decades, as they compliment each other very well. The slight smell is definitely worth it. This is particularly nice when you don't have enough humus in your soil, but it is beneficial regardless.
Humic acids are used in such tiny amounts that a pound will last a long, long time. They help the plant absorb the above products. They should always be included in a foliar spray. They can also be applied to the soil for many benefits.
Blackstrap molasses provides some nutrients, but is mostly just a great carbohydrate source, which is food for the microbes. It's great to apply with the microorganism products because it gives them instant food to begin working with. It also is sticky and helps everything stick to the plant leaves. The pros use some kind of sugar source in every foliar spray, and this is one of the best. Molasses is also used in the fermentation process to make EM, and in brewing compost tea.
So yes, I use them all, but if you're looking to choose, I hope this at least provides some clarification.

:peace:
 
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genuity

Well-Known Member
[video=youtube;cD0gm7dHKKc]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cD0gm7dHKKc&feature=player_embedded#![/video]
 

DoobieBrother

Well-Known Member
Cool info, duchie.
I need to get me some root stuff soon.
Mychorhizae at the least (ran out), and I might try one of those EM's.
I use Liquid Karma (a sea kelp extract), and during flowering I'll use Sweet from Botanicare.
Definitely need to add some EM's to the equation.
This current grow may be too late for it (not getting up to Portland until March 1st), but would like to try some for the next grow.
 

billcollector99

Well-Known Member
Cool info, duchie.
I need to get me some root stuff soon.
Mychorhizae at the least, and I might try one of those EM's.
This current grow may be too late for it (not getting up to Portland until March 1st), but would like to try some for the next grow.
I got a shitload of extra myco. You want me to mail it to you ;)
 

genuity

Well-Known Member
well glad I am not loosing my sense of smell. It'll be a fine smoke for sure, you just know when something stinks like that, hehe. Are those reg's the stomp og crosses? If you could get a male one it would be diamond to cross into a Headband for regular headbands.....the mind bogoggles!!
that would be nice,if i had a headband clone..
 

DST

Well-Known Member
Well I got about 2000 headband seeds so I reckon I could probably get a decent pheno from that.......lol. Take me a bit to stabiliZe it, but I reckon 3/4-1year I'd be good to go, lol.
 

Heads Up

Well-Known Member
Duchie, I read about the EM the first time you posted it a couple of weeks ago, sounds like great stuff but I have to wonder...

I now have both bat guano and alaska brand fertilizers and lately I've been using the alaska brand stuff. The grow is made from fish emulsion, not sure what the bloom is but both are organic and stink to high heaven, then I add in some maxicrop which is liquid kelp and once every two weeks I use humic acid in the brew also and maybe even a touch of liquid karma and finally molasses. My current batch of magic brew has been brewing for four days and has a nice healthy head of foam and is ready to use. What's that stuff cost?
 

Heads Up

Well-Known Member
Anyone get any of the emerald triangle freebies from a couple of months ago from the attitude? My buddy has a grapefruit koosh? and a super sour kush? going and both look rather sativa like now that they are budding. I have their version of jack herer but haven't grown it.
 

duchieman

Well-Known Member
I left a message with the lady a while ago to call me because I had some questions about dilution and application rates and I just got off the phone with her. German lady with a wealth of knowledge. One thing she told me is that myco should be applied directly to the roots during transplant and that by diluting it and inoculating the soil that way is not effective because the myco just lies there dormant. It is only when it makes contact with the roots that it becomes effective and grows. Another thing they do, and they have this on their site as well, is they soak seeds in diluted kelp 5:1000, overnight, then the next day roll the seeds in myco and let them dry, then plant them.

I was gonna say the same as BKB. Only when the light first comes on. lol
 

genuity

Well-Known Member
Well I got about 2000 headband seeds so I reckon I could probably get a decent pheno from that.......lol. Take me a bit to stabiliZe it, but I reckon 3/4-1year I'd be good to go, lol.
set,i got 4 beans of the stomper og left.


full update 003.jpg
(chemdawg og x og) in the back
and (purple mr.nice x chemdawg) in front.
 

duchieman

Well-Known Member
Duchie, I read about the EM the first time you posted it a couple of weeks ago, sounds like great stuff but I have to wonder...

I now have both bat guano and alaska brand fertilizers and lately I've been using the alaska brand stuff. The grow is made from fish emulsion, not sure what the bloom is but both are organic and stink to high heaven, then I add in some maxicrop which is liquid kelp and once every two weeks I use humic acid in the brew also and maybe even a touch of liquid karma and finally molasses. My current batch of magic brew has been brewing for four days and has a nice healthy head of foam and is ready to use. What's that stuff cost?
I have a granular form of humic (humik its called) that you use as an amendment, as well as rock phosphate. I use a liquid kelp already and a fish emulsion nutrient, which also stinks. Especially if you dont use it all and it sits out overnight. The EM I believe is supposed to aid in eliminating that odor somehow, I understand. I am going to get me an air pump and stone and start brewing some teas as well. The one litre bottle of motherculture was $30 and will make 20, 1 litre batches. The motherculture lasts 2 to 3 years and when activated will last 6 to 8 months. I bought a 1L activated bottle for $12.

I have another question. I just picked up some worm castings and I'm wondering about mix and application. I want to do a topical application to get some in the plants I have now so I'm wondering how much per plant, and I'm also wondering about how much to put into my coir mix. Any suggestions?
 
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