Club 600

AllDayToker

AllDayToker

Well-Known Member
Indagrow said:
Im trying to supplement my 600 with an all red led panel, but see people flowering with the cobs... Im on the fence, build one... Or just buy a red panel... Build,buy,build,by,build,build,build

Also looked into the red strip lights... At 34 for five 20 inch it seems like a good option side lighting style... But do I really want 34 dollars worth of light.. Seems like a no?

Ahhh to many options
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I'm current getting my parts list together for my new COB fixture I'll be making. It will replace both my current cheap Chinese Apollo COB led panel, and my 600w HPS.

To cover my 6' by 2' flowering area it'll cost me around $700 to build my own, expensive at first, but worth it. You get to hand pick all of the components, so you know you're getting quality name brand product. Plus I'll be running at have the wattage I'm looking at now, and looking at more GPW.

I bought the cheap Chinese cob led to test them out, and had amazing results. Companies like optic lighting are making the cob leds with quality parts, but they are also more expensive. Building is cheaper, but takes more personal time.

Quality leds are expensive, so if you're on a budget, I'd look into building.
 
supchaka

supchaka

Well-Known Member
They aren't pretty but they're alive! That SRSOG #2 showing me again why I chose it! I thought I flopped this whole clone session with temps outta control in my closet. They took 2 weeks to root when they only took 4 days last time. BUT every other strain I took cuts from and even the other SRSOG phenos all took a digger this round. I did have 4 quantums root too, another good strain that clones well. So I'm ramped up to full even sooner than I expected since all those funky cuts rooted too. My next run will be only the #2 and I even have 3 extras for someone local :)
image.jpg
 
supchaka

supchaka

Well-Known Member
AllDayToker said:
I'm current getting my parts list together for my new COB fixture I'll be making. It will replace both my current cheap Chinese Apollo COB led panel, and my 600w HPS.

To cover my 6' by 2' flowering area it'll cost me around $700 to build my own, expensive at first, but worth it. You get to hand pick all of the components, so you know you're getting quality name brand product. Plus I'll be running at have the wattage I'm looking at now, and looking at more GPW.

I bought the cheap Chinese cob led to test them out, and had amazing results. Companies like optic lighting are making the cob leds with quality parts, but they are also more expensive. Building is cheaper, but takes more personal time.

Quality leds are expensive, so if you're on a budget, I'd look into building.
Click to expand...
I've been using a CAP led for the last 3 or 4 years for all my vegging and cloning. It draws 130 watts and could cover a 4x4 area easily. It's been running 24/7 all this time without so much as a single burnt out led. Pushing in the 30k hours range so far.
 
AllDayToker

AllDayToker

Well-Known Member
supchaka said:
I've been using a CAP led for the last 3 or 4 years for all my vegging and cloning. It draws 130 watts and could cover a 4x4 area easily. It's been running 24/7 all this time without so much as a single burnt out led. Pushing in the 30k hours range so far.
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That's awesome! Ahead of the game I see haha. Yeah I made a couple COB led fixtures for my veg cab around 6 months ago. No issues with any of it yet, only run them 18/6 not 24/0.

I was using 200w of T5s with a ton of heat. Now I'm running 20w per fixture, two fixtures so 40w total, and I'm getting stronger results, and zero heat whatsoever.

Really becoming amazed with these LEDs. Can't wait to have them all above my flowers.
 
Indagrow

Indagrow

Well-Known Member
600 HELP please!!

Just went into the room to find the last round of perpetual (5) are all infested with what I'm guessing is broad mites. These fuckers are tinny little yellow almost rice looking, but they are extremely small.. Tried to take pics to no avail of them but have a few leaves to show..

image.jpg
These little bastards are on the underside but seem to suck off the top of the leaf. I've removed all leaves that are infected but I'm very worried about it spreading to the others in the room, all in different stages. So can I boost C02 to a crazy level and hope for the best or just neem the crap out of everything? I'm removing these plants from the room now ahhh I hate bugs
 
curious old fart

curious old fart

Well-Known Member
Looks like spidermites. You can use any of several different products, Azamax, Fertilome Triple Action Plus II or make your own with chopped hot peppers, garlic and cloves.
Spray every 3 days for 9 days.....and thoroughly clean the area as soon as possible.

:peace:
cof
 
whodatnation

whodatnation

Well-Known Member
papapayne said:
Dont you have to treat the soil as well on thrips? I haven't had em myself, but thought they have some soil larva to?
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Apparently they do drop to the soil.

Aphids are a different story, soil treatment is necessary I believe.


Here's some thrip info-----


Control
Thrip management is a matter of garden maintenance — reducing the places where thrips may breed — and requires removing plant debris while it’s still on the ground and green. Thrips lay their eggs in slits they cut in live plant stems. Vigilance — spotting problems early and responding to them — is also required. Check your plants for damage and clusters of the pests at the place where leaves are attached to stems. Don’t wait to take action. Take the measures listed below. And be sure to use the safest, most proven products.

  • To get rid of thrips remove weeds and grass from around garden areas to eliminate alternate hosts. Clean up crop debris in the garden, especially onion leaves after harvest. (Dry mulch will not attract thrips. Green mulch will.)
  • Inspect all plants you import into the garden for signs of thrips or their damage. Discard any infested plants by securely bagging and putting in the trash.
  • Blue sticky traps are helpful for monitoring adult populations.
  • If found, use the Bug Blaster to hose off plants with a strong, encompassing spray of water to reduce pest numbers.
  • Release commercially available beneficial insects, such as minute pirate bugs, the effective thrips predator (feeds on eggs and larvae before they can become adults), ladybugs, and lacewing, (especially effective in green houses) to attack and destroy all stages of this pest. For best results, make releases after first knocking down severe infestations with water spray or other method.
  • Severe populations may require a least-toxic, short-lived botanical insecticide (pyrethrin) to reduce pest numbers. Follow-up with predatory insects to maintain control.
  • Safe, smothering insectical soaps made from naturally occurring plant oils and fats, are also effective for knocking down heavy infestations (and won’t harm most naturally occurring beneficial insects). Spinosad, and neem oil can be used to spot treat heavily infested areas.
Tip: Thorough coverage is necessary when using natural contact insecticides, especially on the undersides of leaves and where leaves attach to stems, a favorite place for thrips to congregate.
 
Indagrow

Indagrow

Well-Known Member
whodatnation said:
Apparently they do drop to the soil.

Aphids are a different story, soil treatment is necessary I believe.


Here's some thrip info-----


Control
Thrip management is a matter of garden maintenance — reducing the places where thrips may breed — and requires removing plant debris while it’s still on the ground and green. Thrips lay their eggs in slits they cut in live plant stems. Vigilance — spotting problems early and responding to them — is also required. Check your plants for damage and clusters of the pests at the place where leaves are attached to stems. Don’t wait to take action. Take the measures listed below. And be sure to use the safest, most proven products.

  • To get rid of thrips remove weeds and grass from around garden areas to eliminate alternate hosts. Clean up crop debris in the garden, especially onion leaves after harvest. (Dry mulch will not attract thrips. Green mulch will.)
  • Inspect all plants you import into the garden for signs of thrips or their damage. Discard any infested plants by securely bagging and putting in the trash.
  • Blue sticky traps are helpful for monitoring adult populations.
  • If found, use the Bug Blaster to hose off plants with a strong, encompassing spray of water to reduce pest numbers.
  • Release commercially available beneficial insects, such as minute pirate bugs, the effective thrips predator (feeds on eggs and larvae before they can become adults), ladybugs, and lacewing, (especially effective in green houses) to attack and destroy all stages of this pest. For best results, make releases after first knocking down severe infestations with water spray or other method.
  • Severe populations may require a least-toxic, short-lived botanical insecticide (pyrethrin) to reduce pest numbers. Follow-up with predatory insects to maintain control.
  • Safe, smothering insectical soaps made from naturally occurring plant oils and fats, are also effective for knocking down heavy infestations (and won’t harm most naturally occurring beneficial insects). Spinosad, and neem oil can be used to spot treat heavily infested areas.
Tip: Thorough coverage is necessary when using natural contact insecticides, especially on the undersides of leaves and where leaves attach to stems, a favorite place for thrips to congregate.
Click to expand...
Alright 600 full disclosure, this was all my fault. The perpetual is kinda a bitch to get to the back of, mainly because it's a scrog perpetual and yes it's a huge pain in the ass at times, easy other times. That being said once the screen fills up the lower leaves just die off and there is leaves here and there and in the back corner and back wall.... Did I mention it's a flood perpetual scrog uhhhhhhhhh yeah gotta love bottom feeding. I kept a dirty room and paid the price.... I'll be better I swear!


Thank you guys for all your help, I was freaking out earlier and throwing my phone around my room trying to take a picture of the pricks. You all gave me serenity answering my questions, much love 6!
 
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