co2 tank usage
- Thread starter ledgic13
- Start date
BigBudBalls
Well-Known Member
Get 2. This way one is getting refilled while the other is being used.
As for how to regulate it, Maybe a refill station just used differently. You are supposed to empty the bottle before refilling, so it has a vent in it.
As for how long it will last....
https://www.rollitup.org/indoor-growing/28289-c02-calculator-calculate-how-long.html
LoudBlunts
Well-Known Member
how long does a 10 lb tank last?
BigBudBalls
Well-Known Member
1 pound is 8.741 cubic feet, 87.41 cubic feet in a 10lb'er
How long it will last is dependent on leaks in the room and how fast your plant(s) turn the CO2 over.
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ledgic13
Well-Known Member
question what kind of regulator would i use so i could dispense it.
im going with the 3 24oz bottles that should last around a week.thats 4.5lbs of co2.
now all i need is help with the nozzle/regulator/valve.
thanks.
edit-
after doing the math with my space ,to gain 1600ppm i would need to run it for 13.65 minutes,13.115cubic feet per bottle,and .0228 is needed to fill the room
then i shut off, repeat process 8x daily and a bottle can last me 7days so 3x bottles is 3 weeks worth.
i like that versus the yeast method, (i dont want fire ants, the pharaoh ants are bad enough.)
im going with the 3 24oz bottles that should last around a week.thats 4.5lbs of co2.
now all i need is help with the nozzle/regulator/valve.
thanks.
edit-
after doing the math with my space ,to gain 1600ppm i would need to run it for 13.65 minutes,13.115cubic feet per bottle,and .0228 is needed to fill the room
then i shut off, repeat process 8x daily and a bottle can last me 7days so 3x bottles is 3 weeks worth.
i like that versus the yeast method, (i dont want fire ants, the pharaoh ants are bad enough.)
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BigBudBalls
Well-Known Member
Lowes has a airtool system that I used before the 20lb tank. Comes with a tank (9oz) regulator, and a few other little items.
1600 gain? If you used that calculator redo your math. The gain is how much more you want. The 1200 default value is there because the outside air is naturally 300-400. So 300 + 1200 = 1500 (ideal)
(Here my outside is about 420ppm and indoor is about 750ppm)
Without a flow meter or co2 monitor/closed loop, its going to be tough to regulate accurately.
Also remember that only use CO2 while the lights are on and vent fan off. I stop about 45min before th lights go out. CO2 is heavier then air (not by much) but will settle on the floor, so keep the circulation fan on, and have the CO2 pumped in above the plants.
Plants don't seem to be using it for about 30-45 minutes after waking up.
How often you run it depends on plant consumption and room leaks.
CO2 will also make your room a tiny bit hotter, it retains heat better then air.
One thing I had tried was to fill a balloon with a small pin hole in it so it would slowly leak back out.
I set to 20psi (on both) Then ran through a solenoid valve that was controlled. (you can use a timer, but they are usually 1 minute the lowest resolution)
enough rambling. hope that helped.
1600 gain? If you used that calculator redo your math. The gain is how much more you want. The 1200 default value is there because the outside air is naturally 300-400. So 300 + 1200 = 1500 (ideal)
(Here my outside is about 420ppm and indoor is about 750ppm)
Without a flow meter or co2 monitor/closed loop, its going to be tough to regulate accurately.
Also remember that only use CO2 while the lights are on and vent fan off. I stop about 45min before th lights go out. CO2 is heavier then air (not by much) but will settle on the floor, so keep the circulation fan on, and have the CO2 pumped in above the plants.
Plants don't seem to be using it for about 30-45 minutes after waking up.
How often you run it depends on plant consumption and room leaks.
CO2 will also make your room a tiny bit hotter, it retains heat better then air.
One thing I had tried was to fill a balloon with a small pin hole in it so it would slowly leak back out.
I set to 20psi (on both) Then ran through a solenoid valve that was controlled. (you can use a timer, but they are usually 1 minute the lowest resolution)
enough rambling. hope that helped.
Hi mate, I think you are being very optimistic with your co2 usage. Keep in mind co2 requires a close to perfect environment in order to make an impact!
-You have to be able to seal the room (minimal leaks only)
-You will need a co2 ppm counter
-Your your temps will need to be controlled (keep in mind sealed room, you may need AC)
- You need a way to control excessive humidity (and no, you can not put a de-humidifier in your grow room due to the heat build up of these units)
- oh yeah, and let's not forget about the res. chiller you will need if your res is in the grow room
I'm using co2 for the first time and it is a little learning curve, I have all the above things except ac, and it takes a lot of fucking around with to keep the temps/hum right.
You can check my grow out (link below), it goes into the co2 a bit.
Good luck mate!
Unity
-You have to be able to seal the room (minimal leaks only)
-You will need a co2 ppm counter
-Your your temps will need to be controlled (keep in mind sealed room, you may need AC)
- You need a way to control excessive humidity (and no, you can not put a de-humidifier in your grow room due to the heat build up of these units)
- oh yeah, and let's not forget about the res. chiller you will need if your res is in the grow room
I'm using co2 for the first time and it is a little learning curve, I have all the above things except ac, and it takes a lot of fucking around with to keep the temps/hum right.
You can check my grow out (link below), it goes into the co2 a bit.
Good luck mate!
Unity
BigBudBalls
Well-Known Member
Unity, how often are you swapping out the 20 pounder?
BigBudBalls
Well-Known Member
Sorry to hijack.
What CO2 meter you using? You seem to have a smaller grow room (aka: not a 3Mx3M seems like a lot of CO2 rolling in.)
For an AC, I've been pondering a 'dorm fridge' to chill water (if you incorporate the freezer coil, can work, I think) to chill an acrylic or Lexan tank of water, then pump that through a fan driven radiator. The water will get warm near the end of the 12/12 shift, but allows the overnight to re'gen the tank temp.
ledgic13
Well-Known Member
well for me the room is pretty sealed, i made it that way. taped and covered...one entrance.
i would much rather find a 5lb tank...
that one week formula that came up with is spot on for me.... ive got a little grow area, fan and all.
so it will work well for me. and since the plants will only be using the co2 when the light is on then....hey it could last a week with moderate usage, giving them just enough...
this is just a temporary set back until i can get the bigger tank.
i would much rather find a 5lb tank...
that one week formula that came up with is spot on for me.... ive got a little grow area, fan and all.
so it will work well for me. and since the plants will only be using the co2 when the light is on then....hey it could last a week with moderate usage, giving them just enough...
this is just a temporary set back until i can get the bigger tank.
LoudBlunts
Well-Known Member
DR. VonDankenstine
Well-Known Member
1. The small tanks will not get you anywhere unless your running it in a shoe box. It would take about 16 of those 20oz to= a 20 pound tank.
2. If you run your co2 at 1500ppms you don't need to run exhaust(unless your trying to remove heat or humidity). If the temps and humidity are not a problem you can seal the room tight with no air going in or out.
3. Plants produce more co2 at night(lights out) than they consume so there is no need to add co2 during lights out. There will be ample co2 in the morning from the plants so you will not have to run co2 for the first hour of light on.
4. When using co2 understand that your plants will perform better with the temps 5deg's warmer than you would norm run---83deg is perfect with co2 supplementation.
5. When cal co2 demand remember to fig in 450-550ppms of standard co2 air volume.
6. Make sure to have ample fans pushing the air around the room(co2 is heavier than air)
7. A 20 pound tank will last 7 days at 1500ppm(950ppm from the tank) 11 hours a day for a room that is 450 cubic ft---10'x10'x4.5'
8. Tank refill for a 20lb cost about 20 to 25 dollars depending on where you live.
9. AVG closet size 100 cubic ft.
2. If you run your co2 at 1500ppms you don't need to run exhaust(unless your trying to remove heat or humidity). If the temps and humidity are not a problem you can seal the room tight with no air going in or out.
3. Plants produce more co2 at night(lights out) than they consume so there is no need to add co2 during lights out. There will be ample co2 in the morning from the plants so you will not have to run co2 for the first hour of light on.
4. When using co2 understand that your plants will perform better with the temps 5deg's warmer than you would norm run---83deg is perfect with co2 supplementation.
5. When cal co2 demand remember to fig in 450-550ppms of standard co2 air volume.
6. Make sure to have ample fans pushing the air around the room(co2 is heavier than air)
7. A 20 pound tank will last 7 days at 1500ppm(950ppm from the tank) 11 hours a day for a room that is 450 cubic ft---10'x10'x4.5'
8. Tank refill for a 20lb cost about 20 to 25 dollars depending on where you live.
9. AVG closet size 100 cubic ft.
Hi Dr., do you know of a way to get humidity down without ac? I can keep my temps at 82 - 85 without ac but my humidity just kreeps up to about 70%. I'm worried that I get bud rot! What do you think, ac a must?
I tried a de-humidifier, too much heat in a sealed enviro.
Unity
LoudBlunts
Well-Known Member
exhaust the humidity before it builds up?
get a dehumidifier
get a dehumidifier
LoudBlunts
Well-Known Member
cooltube on the lights?
lol, I see my thoughts exactly. Here is the evolution to date:
1. sealed room
2. added co2
3. temp went up to like 95 degrees (I said fuck, goto get the light cooler)
4. added a 2nd fan to my existing hood
5. temps drop to 85-89 (I think still fuck, but better then before)
5.a, I get a cool tube along with a new $200 fantech 260cfm fan (that combo rocks, now my temps by the light are lower then in the rest of the grow room lol)
6. I notice my reservoirs getting up to like 84 degrees (I say fuck fuck what to do...)
7. I go out to buy a 30 gallon res and a chiller (my res temp at 68 now, man I'm so happy, but wait, my humidity!!!, fuck fuck, mind you my plants have a canopy now , therefore humidity up)
8. I go buy a little peltier dehumidifier (don't waist your money,lol)
9. I go buy a 20 pint de-humidifier (from craigslist $40 thank god)
10. moment of glory, I run it, humidity is o so sweet right at 48%, I'm so happy, but wait, my temps are climbing to 98 degrees in like 30 min.(I open up my grow space and sure thing, the bloody de-humidifier is getting ready to heat Alaska for the winter)
11. I settle into the reality that I will not be able to run co2 efficiently until I add ac.
12. I rig up minimum exhaust for the days when it gets hot here and no exhaust for when the temps are not quite so high.
13. So here I am....
1. sealed room
2. added co2
3. temp went up to like 95 degrees (I said fuck, goto get the light cooler)
4. added a 2nd fan to my existing hood
5. temps drop to 85-89 (I think still fuck, but better then before)
5.a, I get a cool tube along with a new $200 fantech 260cfm fan (that combo rocks, now my temps by the light are lower then in the rest of the grow room lol)
6. I notice my reservoirs getting up to like 84 degrees (I say fuck fuck what to do...)
7. I go out to buy a 30 gallon res and a chiller (my res temp at 68 now, man I'm so happy, but wait, my humidity!!!, fuck fuck, mind you my plants have a canopy now , therefore humidity up)
8. I go buy a little peltier dehumidifier (don't waist your money,lol)
9. I go buy a 20 pint de-humidifier (from craigslist $40 thank god)
10. moment of glory, I run it, humidity is o so sweet right at 48%, I'm so happy, but wait, my temps are climbing to 98 degrees in like 30 min.(I open up my grow space and sure thing, the bloody de-humidifier is getting ready to heat Alaska for the winter)
11. I settle into the reality that I will not be able to run co2 efficiently until I add ac.
12. I rig up minimum exhaust for the days when it gets hot here and no exhaust for when the temps are not quite so high.
13. So here I am....
DR. VonDankenstine
Well-Known Member
Do you use insulted duct on your cool tube? Do you have to have your chiller and or res in the same room? You could also look into a sulfur burner--will take care of all powdery mildew l all mold except for deep bud rot-and you run a risk of that with your humidity at 70. I have a 10,000 btu delonghi that works like a charm in a flowering room--no drip pan and humanity goes out with exhaust the unit run 110v--8.5 amps on full---1050 watts.(problem is that it sucks out your co2 and smell)---I run tanks in the summer and have a natural gas burner for the winter. My light system is passive with insulated ducts and sealed reflectors. I only run my exhaust at night when the light are off.