wish i had a home..i rent upstairs and water heaters in the basement..few more years
If you have a gas water heater down there in your basement, i'd bet money the stack off the top of it goes to your roof,.. which means it goes through your attic,.. which is exactly what mine does, and that's where i Y'ed it off, in the attic crawl space. Hot and cramped as fuck up there, i took a backpack full of tools and water, as well as my cell incase i fell half way through the floor, lol.. Came down 45 min later drenched in sweat, but got it done. If yours is the same, id do it. a 4" hole cut out of the ceiling isn't hard to replace before yo move.
A glitch though:.. so maybe i'm not "DONE" yet, ha!..
tat2ue (the guy who inspired me to do this, CO2 link in my sig) he said "
For the most part, the fan that pulls the co2 into the room is doing so mostly from the pilot light"... he also said, "
After trial and error I got it to keep a constant 1500-1900 ppm by setting my timer at 15 min on and 30 min off". I don't know about this, first off he said he never had a CO2 meter, so i'm wondering how he measured that. I've put my CO2 meter right by the fan blowing in, and it only reads higher than the ambient CO2 level of 550 when the water heater is ON. Mind you i have a lot longer run then him,.. but i won't keep that fan on if it's not helping. Only when there is CO2 enriched air in the pipe would it benefit me, otherwise I'm just sucking in hot air from outside. My WH is outside on a closet on the patio, hot as shit out there this time of year so the thing isn't going to run much. I suspect his pilot light alone isn't doing it for him, and at 15 on 30 off he's probably just catching CO2 in the pipe at times, and has more spikes and dips than he would prefer. Duct power dampers might be in order, that's what
the original article recommended.