Coco vs soil. Why so small??

jarvild

Well-Known Member
HMMM, interesting. I have 4 plants in 5 gallon fabric pots I water to runoff every day. I can't go 2 days, they drink it up way to quick so it's daily for me. May be because I am using fabric pots. Thanks.
Yes, fabric pot allow for more evaporation of the feeds before being used by the plants. That's where build-up happens, the water evaporates leaving excess nutrients to remain in the coir.
 

Doug Dawson

Well-Known Member
Yes, fabric pot allow for more evaporation of the feeds before being used by the plants. That's where build-up happens, the water evaporates leaving excess nutrients to remain in the coir.
Fair enough, I don't get buildups as I feed to runoff but hey, maybe it's time to change to plastic pots. Could save me some work.
 

madvillian420

Well-Known Member
it would help if the corect info was given in the first place. so your saying that plane water cant be given to coco in any circumstance??
i havent said that you should only give them plane water, im just stating a fact that you can give them plane water in between feedings if your unsure. please prove me wrong
you guys.....he said PLANE water not PLAIN water! its clear as day in several posts. have yall ever been on a plane? they give out some gourmet shit!
 

Shaggy78

Active Member
Oh my god!! You are so set up for failure here.Coco has to be in trays elevated so gravity takes care of runoff.
Some quick math,ea pot will have 1 litre of runoff every day even twice.So you need to manage 150-200 litres of run off a day.
You need to re think your set up ASAP.
like I said most her and Happy Frog and perlite. I think I might have 40 that are in Coco. I guess I know what I'll be doing a lot of the day
 

Shaggy78

Active Member
Yes, it's simple. Coco works as a sponge absorbing what you put in. You don't want your coco as a blank medium absorbing plain water. Hi frequency fertigation is done by always using nutes and getting runoff. If done properly there is never a toxic buildup as the nute solution pushes out the buildups before they become an issue. Now since you always use a nute solution to runoff it should be easy to understand why a mild solution is used to push out buildups caused by the mistakes of the grower. I for one don't have my nickers in a twist at all, just trying to help you understand. You say you would never use a mild nute solution but I on the other hand would never had a toxic buildup as I feed properly to runoff with nutes every time. Hope that makes more sense to you.
I am so thankful for all the information I'm getting on Cocoa today. Even though my man might not be accurate with his ADD plain water idea the 50 responses that it generated has really going far to inform me of what I'm looking at I appreciate it all
 

SnoopyDoo

Well-Known Member
Shaggy - start feeding the plants in coco. Coco is sort of an in between hydro and soil. I'd feed them a good hydro formula (General Hydro is what I use). Coco tends to need extra CalMg. Hopefully you did a Calmg flush or have coco that was washed, since the calmg can release potassium from the coco. You might consider transplanting to Happy Frog to simplify your life. I'd add a beneficial to your Coco, like Great White.

It's perfectly acceptable and a common practice to use plain water in coco (or peat) between feedings. A pretty common practice is feeding nutes 2 days and plain water on the 3rd. Some people choose to do lighter feedings and always feed. A lot of people will flush the coco weekly to avoid salt build-up and nute lock out. You can flush with a flushing solution, plain water or very light nutrient solution.

I like to feed coco or peat a hot nute solution and follow that with plain water. There is something out there called the captain's formula that works well (dudegrows.com). I used that for a while, but I didn't bother using RO water and it worked fine. If you're on well water or have extremely hard water, then use a nute line that accounts for hard water (GH has mirco designed for hard water) . That's a simple formula that won't over feed your plants and cause lock out. You could use it in your soil once week to keep any nutrient deficiencies at bay. Good luck.
 

Shaggy78

Active Member
Shaggy - start feeding the plants in coco. Coco is sort of an in between hydro and soil. I'd feed them a good hydro formula (General Hydro is what I use). Coco tends to need extra CalMg. Hopefully you did a Calmg flush or have coco that was washed, since the calmg can release potassium from the coco. You might consider transplanting to Happy Frog to simplify your life. I'd add a beneficial to your Coco, like Great White.

It's perfectly acceptable and a common practice to use plain water in coco (or peat) between feedings. A pretty common practice is feeding nutes 2 days and plain water on the 3rd. Some people choose to do lighter feedings and always feed. A lot of people will flush the coco weekly to avoid salt build-up and nute lock out. You can flush with a flushing solution, plain water or very light nutrient solution.

I like to feed coco or peat a hot nute solution and follow that with plain water. There is something out there called the captain's formula that works well (dudegrows.com). I used that for a while, but I didn't bother using RO water and it worked fine. If you're on well water or have extremely hard water, then use a nute line that accounts for hard water (GH has mirco designed for hard water) . That's a simple formula that won't over feed your plants and cause lock out. You could use it in your soil once week to keep any nutrient deficiencies at bay. Good luck.
I'm using General Hydroponics because I have well water. I knew you water Coco everyday I just wasn't aware how often or how much you fed them I was under the impression it was one day on one day off but I understand the concept of every day and low amount. this is my job so I'm not worried about necessarily saving myself some headache I do want to run the Coco and get an idea. But I am glad I limited the amount.
 

SnoopyDoo

Well-Known Member
Well water is often high in CalMag, so you may want to use that at ~50% or every other feeding, etc. Good luck and keep an eye out for lock outs caused by excessive CalMag. Or another approach would be not use CalMag and keep an eye out for CalMag deficiency. When you see the deficiency, then foliar with CalMag and start adding CalMag to the feeding schedule. I prefer to deal with deficiencies than lock out. Most deficiencies can be fixed pretty quick with foliar spraying.
 

Doug Dawson

Well-Known Member
Well water is often high in CalMag, so you may want to use that at ~50% or every other feeding, etc. Good luck and keep an eye out for lock outs caused by excessive CalMag. Or another approach would be not use CalMag and keep an eye out for CalMag deficiency. When you see the deficiency, then foliar with CalMag and start adding CalMag to the feeding schedule. I prefer to deal with deficiencies than lock out. Most deficiencies can be fixed pretty quick with foliar spraying.
Calcium will lock out magnesium and most water has calcium unless it's RO. Perhaps skip the CalMag and just add Epsom salts for Magnesium. There is likely enough Calcium in your water naturally and by adding Calmmag you risk locking out Mag. I would drop the CalMag, add the Epsom salts and just watch for any Calcium defiantly.
 

Shaggy78

Active Member
Calcium will lock out magnesium and most water has calcium unless it's RO. Perhaps skip the CalMag and just add Epsom salts for Magnesium. There is likely enough Calcium in your water naturally and by adding Calmmag you risk locking out Mag. I would drop the CalMag, add the Epsom salts and just watch for any Calcium defiantly.
I was using Epsom salt anyway. But I figured I was going to add it with the Cal Mag? Is that not a good idea
 

kovidkough

Well-Known Member
everything you need is here
 
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