I have been using my home-made Colloidal Silver for over 15 years. The first couple of years I thought it was a piece of cake to make it with a couple of coins and a 9 volt battery, but was greatly mistaken. I continued having health problems, though admittedly, not as severe as before. I spent much time pondering, and the secret is that VERY small particles are mandatory for silver to suffocate viruses and also some bacteria. First, I learned to NEVER add salt or any chemical to the water. Clumps will form, destroying the product's effectiveness PURE water and silver is the only way to make effective Colloids. It does take some time, but the result is amazing in its disease fighting ability.
Silver is known to oxidize, or absorb oxygen (tarnish if you will) readily. This makes it effective on pathogens ONLY if it is smaller than the target pathogen. IOW, it must attach itself to them, because Silver colloids operate by absorbing oxygen from the host pathogen by depriving it of the oxygen it needs to multiply. Colloidal ions are attached by the charge they carry due to the electrolysis method of manufacture. They are attracted to the pathogens through this charge.
Exposure to light acts to neutralize the ionic charge over time, so colloidal silver is always stored in a dark container.
The secrets to making extremely small colloids are simple, and can be done by anyone with a small capital investment and then made continually for virtually pennies per quart.
The method I am about to share has been proven to produce consistent and effective results. The method is like a recipe. You must follow it, much like any recipe, to achieve consistent results.
The only thing you will need that is extraordinary is a milliamp meter. You can pick one up at Radio Shack, and if you do not know hpow to use it, get instruction from either the booklet that comes with it, or get someone to demonstrate. There are only 2 wires on it, so how complicated can it be? While you are there, pick up a set of small "clip leads". These are usually sold in packages of 6. (you only need 2). Also buy Three 9 volt alkaline batteries. On the way back, stop by Walmart and buy a cheap ($5.95 here) aerator (bubble blower) for a fish tank, and a couple of feet of clear tubing for the aerator.
The Silver source. Buy a silver sheet piece from someone like
http://www.silversupplies.com/catalog/metals/fine_silver/sheet.shtml Purity must be .999. The gauge of metal can be any they list, but I suggest the 26 gauge. Thickness is not that important, but LENGTH and WIDTH is. The sheets are sold in 6 inch by one inch pieces. Buy ONE sheet. Cut two 1/4 inch X 6 inch strips from it. You can use scissors to cut it. Try to be very consistent in width. Dont worry that it curls while you cut it. It is easy to flatten again by placing in a book or merely bending it back with your hands. THEN, using a ruler, measure 1 and 1/2 inches from one end of the strip, and scribe an easily visible line across each strip using a sharp knife or other pointed tool.
Once you have made the strips, WASH them in a solution of warm soapy water to remove any oils used in rolling them, or any skin oils you may have contacted them with.
You should never have to wash them again, unless you drop them on the floor. Simply clean them between uses by wiping with a wet paper towel between the thumb and forefinger, and pulling the strip through.
Next, get a one quart WIDEMOUTH mason jar. The widemouth is important, as it sets the spacing between the strips. Wash the inside of the jar, and DRY well with a paper towel and place it in the microwave on high for a couple of minutes, to make sure it is completely dry.
Bend a small hook (or lip) at the scribed end of the strip so that the strip will hang on the lip of the mason jar, and the scribed line is about an inch or so below the top of the jar.
Now, a little bit of basic electricity. The colloidal size is a function of the current flowing in the solution soon to be described. Likewise, the current is controlled by four basic things, which is why all the accent on dimensions above.
1) the conductivity of the solution.
2) the size of the strips hanging within the solution. (length and width)
3) the spacing between the strips. This is why a WIDEMOUTH jar is used.
4) the applied voltage (batteries) (you need 3 to make 27-28 volts)
Finally we get to the water (solution). NO "tap water", NO "spring water". These are rife with impurities. You MUST use distilled water. AND just not ANY old distilled water. I have searched high and low and only found two brands which work in my area. Much of what is sold as distilled water is done using metallic distilling equipment. It is highly conductive and will NOT make effective colloidal silver. Don't waste your time.
You WILL have to search and buy several brands before you find one which is glass distilled and is suitable. Don't worry, for you can easily test the water. In fact that is the first step in this recipe.
Steps:
1) Hang the two silver strips inside the jar.
2)Snap the three 9 volt batteries together in series. Proper contacts in each battery neatly fits the other. When you get them snapped correctly, two batteries face the third. (the 2 batteries on the outside face the center battery). The two terminals left open are (one on each outside battery) attached by clip leads as follows.
3) Connect one terminal from the batteries to one of the milliampmeter leads. Clip the other milliampmeter lead to one of the strips hanging in the jar, using as an attach point the end of the bent hook on the outside of the jar lip.
4) Move the second strip to the opposite side of the jar from the first one. (Remember spacing is important). get the strips as close to opposite as possible.
4) Connect the final battery lead to the other strip.
using your fingers, get the strips hanging straight down as close as possible to the inside of the jar.
Now to test the water for suitability. Carefully pour your "distilled" water into the jar until it reaches the scribed lines on the strips. Monitor the milliampmeter for a reading of .2 milliamps (200 microamps) or less. Less is better. Anything over .2 milliamps means the water is too conductive, and it WILL NOT make effective colloidal silver. Use it in your steam iron, and try another brand. You must find a source of low conductive distilled water. For those near a Food Lion or Publix, both these are suitable, at least in my area.
Assuming you have found suitable low conductivity water, place the tubing from your aerator all the way to the bottom and hold in place with a clothespin or other method. Turn on the aerator to be sure it does not move the strips, but only "stirs" the water by bubbling.
MONITOR the milliampmeter. You are looking for a final conductivity of 5-6 times the starting current, but in no case more than 1 milliamp. (The colloids will be too large, and begin to clump. If you start at 100 microamps, stop at 600.
DONT rush it. DO NOT HEAT the water. It will take from 2 and 1/2 to four hours to make depending on the water temperature for the final current to result.
Once your final current is reached, remove the tubing, strips anddisconnect the batteries. Using a non-metallic funnel, place a clean coffee filter in it and filter your colloidal silver in a dark container. I use a dark glass beer bottle, but the opaque bottles hydrogen peroxide comes in work great also. Anything to keep light at a minimum.
You will notice small gray particles caught on the filter or remaining in the jar bottom. They should be minimal in quantity. These are clumped colloids. If you notice these increasing over time, it is a sign that your water quality has deteriorated or some foreign salts have built up. Clean your equipment and microwave the tubing of the aerator and the jar. If you exceed 1 milliamp of current, the particles will rapidly increase. this is not the most effective colloidal silver. You should experience virtually NO metallic taste with small colloids, because they are smaller than your taste buds can distinguish!
Try to use your silver within two weeks, as the colloid ions lose their charge over time.
Dose: Prophylactic-- a swig (about a teaspoonful) morning and night. swish in your mouth and swallow.
Minor Cuts-- soak a bandair in the solution and apply as normal.
Infection-- double the prophylactic dose.
Care of strips and equipment. Wash and dry the jar. Wipe the strips gently with a moistened paper towel between your fingers. DO NOT "polish" them. The gray color is a natural feature, and actually decreases the cook time with use. This is because of the increased microsurface area due to the "tarnish".
Keep your equipment in a dust free box between uses.
It's a kind of pain to use the recipe, but I have perfected it with much trial and error. NO colds, staph or infections of any kind in 9 years.
info from............................
http://www.rumormillnews.com/cgi-bin/archive.cgi?read=142544