Considering Super Soil

GandalfdaGreen

Well-Known Member
Close call..

I was putting together an order for some of the super soil ingredients and then it hit me "RATIOS" I had completely forgot about them. I had to search for a recipe that included them since the high times article does not list them. Needless to say some were way off.

Do they need to be exact? Hell, does it really matter?

I can not find "Fish Bone Meal 3-16-0" just 3-15-0, 3-18-0, and 3-15-0 with 24% calcium.

They don't need to be exact. Just get them as close as possible within reason. Spicy knows his shit. I'd listen to him.
 

maverickx

Member
Check out page 4 of the thread in my signature for my soil recipe. Recycling the soil is KEY. It just gets better.

I did a few runs with Subcool's soil mix a while back. I got good results, but I have didn't like the way the plants reacted when I first put them in it. For me, they showed borderline nitrogen toxicity at first until they hit their stride and took off. I don't get that with my soil; just a smooth transition without skipping a beat at each transplant.

Many have excellent results with Subcool's soil, but this is just what I've found to work well in my garden.
What are the ratios of the ingredients like bone meal and kelp meal? So , you mix your soil recipe and cook it for how long? 30 days? Sorry for the slight high-jack bennie.
 

benniespliff

New Member
No, Problem. I was curious myself. Having never worked with soil/supersoil just ready made nutes I forget about the ratios. I like how Spicys recipe is mild enough to be used stand alone when the plants are ready.


Base Mix:
-Equal parts Alaska Peat, Perlite (wide range of particle sizes), and worm castings. I also added some Alaskan Humus at about 5% or so for a little extra diversity.


Nitrogen Sources:
- Crab Meal -- 0.5 TBSP/gal
- Alfalfa Meal -- 0.5 TBSP/gal
- Neem Seed Meal -- 0.5 TBSP/gal


Phosphorus Source:
- Fish Bone Meal --2 TBSP/gal


Potassium, micronutrients, etc:
- Kelp Meal -- 1.5 TBSP/gal


Rock Dusts, Minerals, etc:
- Powdered Dolomite Lime -- 2 TBSP/gal
- Azomite -- 2 TBSP/gal
- Soft Rock Phosphate -- 1 TBSP/gal
 

benniespliff

New Member
Check out page 4 of the thread in my signature for my soil recipe. Recycling the soil is KEY. It just gets better.

I did a few runs with Subcool's soil mix a while back. I got good results, but I have didn't like the way the plants reacted when I first put them in it. For me, they showed borderline nitrogen toxicity at first until they hit their stride and took off. I don't get that with my soil; just a smooth transition without skipping a beat at each transplant.

Many have excellent results with Subcool's soil, but this is just what I've found to work well in my garden.
How long do you cook it for and what are the ratios (NPK)? Do you go straight from the peat/perlite/worm castings mix to your supersoil? I want to try both subcools and yours to see which gives me better results.
 

SpicySativa

Well-Known Member
I wouldn't get too caught up in the exact NPKs of the ingredients. If you're curious, most of what I use is from Down to Earth, because it's what I have available locally.
 

rafaelmon

New Member
I wouldn't get too caught up in the exact NPKs of the ingredients. If you're curious, most of what I use is from Down to Earth, because it's what I have available locally.

Bennie hope you do not mind me asking a question.


Spicy I have read your thread and was wondering if you start out in peat/WC/perlite and then move on into straight supersoil. I was using Subcools SS but, had insect issues with the roots organic and I want to get away from using Bat Guano.

Also how long do you cook it?

Can you use your recipe in 5 gallon pots or is 7 gallon the min.?

If you would prefer not to clutter this thread I just started a thread looking for answers.
 

endpro

Active Member
What's your base soil? Some seedlings will burn if you put them straight into Ocean Forrest or roots organic. I still suggest the peat/perlite/worm castings for the first couple weeks of growth after the seed sprouts. Or you could cut your base soil 50/50 with peat/perlite/castings to "mellow it out" a little.

1:1:1 on the peat/perlite/castings. Or 2:1:1 works just fine, too.
I hear and read this often, but never actually experienced it either. Plain roots or ocean forest for seedlings has worked fine for me.
 

thay5212

Active Member
I hear and read this often, but never actually experienced it either. Plain roots or ocean forest for seedlings has worked fine for me.
I never had any issues either when planting seeds directly into FFOF, though plenty of people say it causes them problems.
 

SpicySativa

Well-Known Member
My soil "cooks" for at least 6 weeks.

Yes, I start my seeds in the peat/perlite/WC mix. This is just how I do it, because it works for me. I have never tried my mix in pots smaller than 7 gallons. I'm sure it would work, but it might need a top dressing or two, or some teas, if it starts running low on nutrients during bloom.
 

rafaelmon

New Member
My soil "cooks" for at least 6 weeks.

Yes, I start my seeds in the peat/perlite/WC mix. This is just how I do it, because it works for me. I have never tried my mix in pots smaller than 7 gallons. I'm sure it would work, but it might need a top dressing or two, or some teas, if it starts running low on nutrients during bloom.

I think I am giving yours a run. Not fussy at all. I only ask because I have had bad luck with nute burn in the past so, would you process be:

Germinate ---> place sprouts into cups of peat/perlite/WC mix ---> Transfer to small pot maybe 1 gal. of peat/perlite/WC mix ---> Transfer to 10 gallon pot of your super soil no mixing or layering just the super soil.

1) How long before transfers/max time before they need to get into the super soil for nutrients?

2) Do you use teas? If so, are they necessary or just preference?

My main goal is to just water.
 

SpicySativa

Well-Known Member
The 1-gal pot would be about half peat/perlite/WC, and half of the fully amended soil mix. It's like an intermediate step to get them accustomed to my mix.

As for when to transplant, do this when the plants are starting to outgrow their containers, or when they start showing signs of being hungry. I can't really tell you an exact number of days. That will depend on all kinds of factors...
 

whitey78

Well-Known Member
The only thing I say do differently is the germination of seeds.. Soak seeds in chlorine free water only until they sink (that's all the saturation they're gonna take), stir every hour until they sink... Once they sink, fill up a red cup with light warrior or whatever "light" bagged soil (one bag lasts a year almost..), wet the soil, let it drain, it'll take a few tries... Let it drain good but as soon as it settles place seed 1/4 to a 1/2" down in the center of the cup, cover up with soil, put under 1 cfl on 18-6 and walk away, they'll be sprouts in a couple days...

I just don't agree with letting the roots get hit by the light... If your gonna grow it hydro, ok I get it but if your growing dirt, start em in dirt. It cuts out the human/idiot-proof factor.. I know probably half the people that grow do it this way but the other half is doing it some way similar to the way I mentioned with peat plugs or whatever other medium in a cup without the paper towel

Other than that; I think if u listen to spicy you'll on your way to proper growing real fast... Keep it simple... You'll eventually figure out everything is not as exact as you think it is now, and the things that are important now will me nothing once you figure it out a little... If you ever think you know it all, your fucked...

The more I grow, the more I realize I know dick about it and need simplify my methods more than I have...

I recommend leaving the peat alone if you plan on recycling your soil, you can use soil with peat in it but it should be a coco dominant base you start with, the amendments don't matter except castings perlite and coco... Peat breaks down into something that helps produce bad fungi... Coco breaks down in to p or k... (I'm chinky eyed high right now on some qush ATM.. So please forgive me if I'm off....)

I have to say if that's your mix above spicy; I'm liking it... Very simple but effective... I have yet to get my hands on some crab shell meal... I have been trying oyster shell meal along with powdered lime as well as some other stuff that took a year to find but I finally got some...

I am still using supersoil along with an amended base, my base is 100% recycled but I re amend with castings, perlite, coco and whatever amendments every run...

If you were getting that N toxicity you need a bigger buffer, it's tough to grow with SS in 7 gal smart pots cust they aren't big enough, my last run I measured out the % and then added the amount of base needed and mixed the SS and base using it globally basically... But I plan to run 10's from now on if the batch I plan to try go good.

I can't say enough good about castings, if you OG poster are serious about growing organic, use them appropriately and excessively but just aerate properly with perlite or whatever... I started a worm farm with 2 pounds of red wigglers and they have spawned Into god knows how many now... Get them on hand at all times and use them, even better with good trustworthy compost...

But as far remineralization, I would say either cut your amount in half and see where it lands you if you wanna reapply every time or use whatever your using per cubic foot or whatever but add your trace every other or every 3rd cycle of amending, unless you see you need it of course. It's trial with your strains, some want more some want less...
 
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