Continuous problem every run

Greenthumbgrower1986

Greenthumbgrower1986

Well-Known Member
Been doing some research and came across an article regarding high levels of calcium in water causing the soil ph to rise. So intrigued I did a water check online for my local area and it says there is 290ppm of calcium in my water. Could this be the culprit? I e calcium building up and causing pH of soil to rise thus locking out nutrients?
 
Herb & Suds

Herb & Suds

Well-Known Member
Greenthumbgrower1986 said:
Been doing some research and came across an article regarding high levels of calcium in water causing the soil ph to rise. So intrigued I did a water check online for my local area and it says there is 290ppm of calcium in my water. Could this be the culprit? I e calcium building up and causing pH of soil to rise thus locking out nutrients?
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I grow in soil and my well water has a calcium level of 275 ppm
So no
 
YoZeitgeist

YoZeitgeist

Well-Known Member
Greenthumbgrower1986 said:
Hi all, I am on the verge of giving up and going back to just buying again. Every run my plants start yellowing at begining of flower, a few runs ago I started adding a little more nitrogen during the stretch but still always happens. I'm lost as to what to do. They are royal queen auto northern lights in plant magic soil using plant magic plus nutes. Feed is always PhD to 6.2/6.3... is there any other factors other then nitrogen deficiency that would cause this? It always starts about 1 week after pistols show.
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At that early a stage of flower you can get away with foliar feeding them, red stems and yellow leaves are a sign of low phosphors which they want more of in their transitioning to flowering.

You likely have a build up of nutrients at the very bottom and a possible lockout occurred, issue I had early on but has since been corrected with a flush and foliar feeding and then waiting on the soil to dry two days before feeding.

Picture of my Northern Lights on Sunday before flushing and picture of her today before I fed all three a higher dosage of nutrients.

Northern Lights has the blue straps. You still have time to remedy things before.

I've seen many other articles where suggestions flush plants 2 times in the grow before flowering and before harvest or watering plants where you have 20-25% runoff that can be drained away immediately so excess salts don't build up at the very bottom of the growing medium.
 

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waterproof808

Well-Known Member
I would use a more simple nutrient line that is hard to fuck up. Something like Jacks 321 where you just feed the same dosage from veg through flower and get great results.
 
Greenthumbgrower1986

Greenthumbgrower1986

Well-Known Member
YoZeitgeist said:
At that early a stage of flower you can get away with foliar feeding them, red stems and yellow leaves are a sign of low phosphors which they want more of in their transitioning to flowering.

You likely have a build up of nutrients at the very bottom and a possible lockout occurred, issue I had early on but has since been corrected with a flush and foliar feeding and then waiting on the soil to dry two days before feeding.

Picture of my Northern Lights on Sunday before flushing and picture of her today before I fed all three a higher dosage of nutrients.

Northern Lights has the blue straps. You still have time to remedy things before.

I've seen many other articles where suggestions flush plants 2 times in the grow before flowering and before harvest or watering plants where you have 20-25% runoff that can be drained away immediately so excess salts don't build up at the very bottom of the growing medium.
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Are you a water ph'er? When you flushed did you pH the water first then flush or just straight water
 
YoZeitgeist

YoZeitgeist

Well-Known Member
Greenthumbgrower1986 said:
Are you a water ph'er? When you flushed did you pH the water first then flush or just straight water
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My tap water is 6.8 and chlorinated so I filtered a bunch of water the night before and let it sit with no top so I could make sure all chlorine was gone didn't pH at all until the final few gallons of water.

My last 7 gallons of water for each plant had a pH of 6.2 and after testing the soil it read 6.4-6.5 after the soil dried and I watered with 6.5 with half strength nutes but foliar fed cal/mag, phosphorus and potassium with kelp fertilizer twice.

Even foliar fed molasses at 5ml per gallon.
Bump the pH to 5.8-6 for foliar feeding and do it right after you cut the lights off or with indirect light.

Next day I foliar fed silica twice, yesterday foliar fed phosphorus and potassium again, 2ml each for a gallon which isn't a lot at all but I rather go low and observe the reaction and apply more as needed until about the 3rd week of flowering.

I have a pressurized sprayer I bought off Amazon that makes it easy to target the underside of leaves and just the tops of leaves even when the plant has started flowering.
 
Antidote Man

Antidote Man

Well-Known Member
PH 6.4 adjustment is smart. I had the same problem for a while getting back into growing after years on hiatus but somehow my green thumb is growing more precise. Not one yellow leaf on last harvest until mid to late flowering. Get your nutes right and use root supplements like great white. On my last grow I used Fox Farms Grow Big, always a little less than recommended dose, and little else until flowering, no yellow leaves... hope that helps
 
Budzbuddha

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
Greenthumbgrower1986 said:
Hi all, I am on the verge of giving up and going back to just buying again. Every run my plants start yellowing at begining of flower, a few runs ago I started adding a little more nitrogen during the stretch but still always happens. I'm lost as to what to do. They are royal queen auto northern lights in plant magic soil using plant magic plus nutes. Feed is always PhD to 6.2/6.3... is there any other factors other then nitrogen deficiency that would cause this? It always starts about 1 week after pistols show.
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As far as “ calcium “ there are many sources already present for your plants - water source and nute line used.

HOWEVER … your ph for the plant is at the lower end 6.2 ( which will lockout calcium even if present ). You should PH your water / feed to a minimum of 6.5 ( 6.6 / 6.7 better ) to allow for ANY PH drift.

That way you keep ph as centralized to proper uptake ph as needed. Do not add cal mag or other supplement calcium as that for sure will F up more .
 
S

spaceturtle

Active Member
Th
MissinThe90’sStrains said:
I’ll mention this, only because I see your white crusty drip trays. Be careful with drip trays and using nutrient solutions. It’s taken me a long time to understand things like proper watering, watering to runoff, and letting waste drain away instead of letting the plant sit in the trays. When the plants sit in the trays instead of allowing runoff to carry away the extra nutrients, what isnt being used concentrates in the soil as the water evaporates. You can easily develop lockouts this way, even if you’re not really overfeeding. Put your plant on a screen or wire mesh, above the tray, to let water drain away when you water. Then discard this water. The crusty residue in your trays is likely a buildup of those salts, and a sign of this possible issue.
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I second this, give a good runoff and check ppm of runoff, mine was at 3200ppm when I made the same mistake of leaving plants in drip trays. I would fix this before chasing any other deficiencies.
 
curious2garden

curious2garden

Well-Known Mod
Staff member
Greenthumbgrower1986 said:
So took a bit of advice from everyone, raised pots, raised light and upped the feed without phong water (7.2ph with nutes) and yellowing appears to have slowed.
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It seems like you picked the correct mix to listen to. I would have told you to not flush and just not let them sit in water. Good luck with finishing, week 5-7 in flower can get interesting :)
 
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