Converting DWC to RDWC

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bobbjoedope

Member
Ok, I have the vivosun 4-site DWC kit. I want to convert this to a Rdwc so that I can have a main res outside the tent with my PH monitor and not have to maintain 4 individual buckets.

Any recommendations? It seems Home Depot/Lowes don't really have the parts (tubing, bulkheads). I've been looking at PA Hydroponics for parts but there are so many options.

Is going with a 1" tube a good idea? I'm worried about roots clogging the holes.

Should I do a waterfall? Or just stay with airstones?

Amazon kits seem pretty good, like this one, or this one. Prob cheaper than buy bulkheads/tubing for converting my existing system.

Any advice from peeps that been down this road before?

image.png
 
Drop That Sound

Drop That Sound

Well-Known Member
I recommend starting over with square buckets or containers, so you aren't limited to using smaller 1" or less bulkheads or grommets with the curved ones you have. You could re-use many of the other parts you already have, but I would try to keep your standalone system intact as a spare. Nice to have backup buckets just in case.

HD and l0wes usually have square 5 gallon buckets like these in stock.. around my parts anyway:
1716303008554.png1716303064173.png

Or, you could use bigger totes (one bigger one in each tent with more netpots, etc), and then you need less bulkheads\plumbing, and can hold even more capacity of nutrient solution . Same with the main res. Bigger the better, but needs to be the same height as the other containers at least.

They do have most of the things you would need, right there at the stores. You can make bulkheads for cheap using the grey electrical PVC conduit fittings. Male and female terminal adapters is what your looking for, whatever size you need. Upwards of 3"+. Anything more than 1-1/2" fittings, and you will need to special order the o-rings or washers, but that's the route I would go anyway. If you go for 1-1/2, you can take the fitting right over to the hardware isle with all the drwaers full of o-rings and test fit to find the perfect sizes. The reason they work well is because the threads aren't tapered like other PVC fittings.

Like this:

Here are the right size o-rings for making the 2" bulkheads using those electrical PVC fittings, which is what I would recommend. Size 331.
1716304106545.png
 
B

bobbjoedope

Member
Drop That Sound said:
I recommend starting over with square buckets or containers, so you aren't limited to using smaller 1" or less bulkheads or grommets with the curved ones you have. You could re-use many of the other parts you already have, but I would try to keep your standalone system intact as a spare. Nice to have backup buckets just in case.

HD and l0wes usually have square 5 gallon buckets like these in stock.. around my parts anyway:
View attachment 5394782View attachment 5394783

Or, you could use bigger totes (one bigger one in each tent with more netpots, etc), and then you need less bulkheads\plumbing, and can hold even more capacity of nutrient solution . Same with the main res. Bigger the better, but needs to be the same height as the other containers at least.

They do have most of the things you would need, right there at the stores. You can make bulkheads for cheap using the grey electrical PVC conduit fittings. Male and female terminal adapters is what your looking for, whatever size you need. Upwards of 3"+. Anything more than 1-1/2" fittings, and you will need to special order the o-rings or washers, but that's the route I would go anyway. If you go for 1-1/2, you can take the fitting right over to the hardware isle with all the drwaers full of o-rings and test fit to find the perfect sizes. The reason they work well is because the threads aren't tapered like other PVC fittings.

Like this:

Here are the right size o-rings for making the 2" bulkheads using those electrical PVC fittings, which is what I would recommend. Size 331.
View attachment 5394788
Click to expand...
 
Mr. Mohaskey

Mr. Mohaskey

Well-Known Member
Drop That Sound said:
I recommend starting over with square buckets or containers, so you aren't limited to using smaller 1" or less bulkheads or grommets with the curved ones you have. You could re-use many of the other parts you already have, but I would try to keep your standalone system intact as a spare. Nice to have backup buckets just in case.

HD and l0wes usually have square 5 gallon buckets like these in stock.. around my parts anyway:
View attachment 5394782View attachment 5394783

Or, you could use bigger totes (one bigger one in each tent with more netpots, etc), and then you need less bulkheads\plumbing, and can hold even more capacity of nutrient solution . Same with the main res. Bigger the better, but needs to be the same height as the other containers at least.

They do have most of the things you would need, right there at the stores. You can make bulkheads for cheap using the grey electrical PVC conduit fittings. Male and female terminal adapters is what your looking for, whatever size you need. Upwards of 3"+. Anything more than 1-1/2" fittings, and you will need to special order the o-rings or washers, but that's the route I would go anyway. If you go for 1-1/2, you can take the fitting right over to the hardware isle with all the drwaers full of o-rings and test fit to find the perfect sizes. The reason they work well is because the threads aren't tapered like other PVC fittings.

Like this:

Here are the right size o-rings for making the 2" bulkheads using those electrical PVC fittings, which is what I would recommend. Size 331.
View attachment 5394788
Click to expand...
I did this with the conduit with a 4 site tote system. About half ended up leaking and had to pull emergency silicone duty. After that run a tore it all down and spent the money for legit bulkheads at about $13 a PC from an online fish pond store. No issues since.

Also agree with the square buckets or larger totes. Then you can use some 2"sch 80 or 3" sch 80 gray pvc pipe for a return. Only issue with pvc pipe is you can't move around buckets if you need to. It's permanent.

I run a 1 bucket rdwc with a waterfall feature, 2 return pipes as a fail safe against clogging.

Good thing is you can customize your system any way you want to for your situation, and however you want to for your needs. Lots of possibilities.

Good luck dude. If you have questions post them here and the good folks here on RIU will help out. Even some of the A-holes occasionally. Lol, just kidding.
 
B

bobbjoedope

Member
Mr. Mohaskey said:
Good luck dude. If you have questions post them here and the good folks here on RIU will help out. Even some of the A-holes occasionally. Lol, just kidding.
Click to expand...
Thank you! I spent about 6 hours today doing research and pricing out a- three-site our dwc system. The price of the buckets, PVC, elbows, is just ridiculously expensive. And that's with the conduit bulkheads. The legit bulkheads are crazy expensive.

If I knew knew this system would last me a few years I would splurge, but honestly I have no idea what I'll end up doing. I just have one plant and a 5 gallon bucket and want to add another one. But I bought this cool pH meter and I want to put it in a reservoir so I can feed and monitor three plants.

I need to do more research on other forms of hydro. I'm going to post a new thread asking for a recommendations on the different types.
 
Mr. Mohaskey

Mr. Mohaskey

Well-Known Member
Grand scheme of things, your saving money. But I get it, $100 is $100. Especially in current market conditions when our dollar doesn't buy as much as it used too.

Keep us posted either way you go. Others can learn, replicate, or improve based on all our posts here.
 
B

bobbjoedope

Member
Mr. Mohaskey said:
Grand scheme of things, your saving money. But I get it, $100 is $100. Especially in current market conditions when our dollar doesn't buy as much as it used too.

Keep us posted either way you go. Others can learn, replicate, or improve based on all our posts here.
Click to expand...
Definitely. Once I figure out the type of hydro that works for me. Then, i wouldn't mind shelling out the duckets!
 
Drop That Sound

Drop That Sound

Well-Known Member
Mr. Mohaskey said:
I did this with the conduit with a 4 site tote system. About half ended up leaking and had to pull emergency silicone duty. After that run a tore it all down and spent the money for legit bulkheads at about $13 a PC from an online fish pond store. No issues since.

Also agree with the square buckets or larger totes. Then you can use some 2"sch 80 or 3" sch 80 gray pvc pipe for a return. Only issue with pvc pipe is you can't move around buckets if you need to. It's permanent.

I run a 1 bucket rdwc with a waterfall feature, 2 return pipes as a fail safe against clogging.

Good thing is you can customize your system any way you want to for your situation, and however you want to for your needs. Lots of possibilities.

Good luck dude. If you have questions post them here and the good folks here on RIU will help out. Even some of the A-holes occasionally. Lol, just kidding.
Click to expand...
That sucks man. I've never had one leak yet. I make sure my holes are drilled the perfect size to slip it in (not twist the threads of the fittings into a smaller hole like others who had leaks have done), and use silicone o-rings. I also only use carlon brand electrical PVC fittings, which don't have mold casting marks like the cheaper cantex brand that need to be filed down. I also crank them down good with 2 sets of big channel locks, tight af.
 
B

bobbjoedope

Member
Drop That Sound said:
That sucks man. I've never had one leak yet. I make sure my holes are drilled the perfect size to slip it in (not twist the threads of the fittings into a smaller hole like others who had leaks have done), and use silicone o-rings. I also only use carlon brand electrical PVC fittings, which don't have mold casting marks like the cheaper cantex brand that need to be filed down. I also crank them down good with 2 sets of big channel locks, tight af.
Click to expand...
Good to know. Looking at those plastic threads, they don't strip easily?
 
Drop That Sound

Drop That Sound

Well-Known Member
Onlyy one seal (you could use 2, one on each side of the container, but not needed), whether it be a washer or o-ring is all that is needed with the DIY conduit fitting bulkheads. All the threads do is hold the male and female fittings together and keep the seal compressed. There is no reason to put anything on the threads. If you did, you wouldn't be able to screw it in all the way, and it will leak for sure. Regular white PVC fittings are different, because they are tapered and get smaller on the end, so yeah you would wanna use teflon on them to create the seal, but definitely not on the grey electrical fittings..
 
Drop That Sound

Drop That Sound

Well-Known Member
Putting the female fitting on the inside of the tub lets you get away with using one seal that is..

Using the female the outside is the only way it could leak past the threads like the diagram below shows, unless you use the seal on that side..

1716496973134.jpeg
 
Drop That Sound

Drop That Sound

Well-Known Member
:eyesmoke:

To clarify, as long as the washer or o-ring is on the outside of the container, and the pipe is glued in properly.. whether its the male or female on whichever side, there is no way I can possibly see for water to leak out. Unless you didn't torque it down tight enough and tried to twist it by hand, or drilled the wrong size hole for the males threads to slide through snuggly, and have a loose fit, etc..

I usually put the female fittings on the inside, and glue the males to the manifolds and pipes. Helps to hold the everything up when setting up the system IME, but doesn't really matter..



Speaking of PVC pipes.. Yeah you might wanna switch over to flexible line if trying to plumb between multiple tents, just to make it easier and have more flexibility. I'm not a tent grower, but I see the advantage of needing to move or slightly shift things around or whatnot. Or maybe just use a few sections or areas between the tents/reservior that are flexible, and do the rest with solid pipe? PVC is way cheaper compared to buying big 2" flex tubing and barbed fittings, that's for sure... Better to hardline everything if you have a room or area to install the rdwc system that isn't temporary like using tents..

Sch 80 pipe is nice and blocks the light, but might be harder to source, and will cost way more. You def don't want to use the electrical grey PVC pipe you'll see in the electrical isle by the conduit fittings though, because it can leach UV blocking chemicals that were infused into it. The grey electrical pvc fittings themselves are safe though, just like the white plumbing ones.
 
Drop That Sound

Drop That Sound

Well-Known Member
Another tip: Sometimes the bucket\container wall of whatever brand you got is going up at more of an angle, instead of 90 degrees like you would want. So, after I tighten down the DIY bulkheads, I breifly hit the area around it with a heatgun (could use a hair dryer) just enough to warm it up good, and then hold the pipe or manifolds up until they are nice and leveled out. Then let it cool back down, and it will stay in that position. Basically heat forming the wall. That way you're not adding any stress to the areas around the bulkheads when you fill the system. Some containers more need help that way, but most should be ok as long as the side walls are close to 90 degrees..
 
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