Cooling grow room
- Thread starter Blissfarms2020
- Start date
Blissfarms2020
Active Member
Whats good leds that dnt compromise on yields? I may make that switch rather than trying to spend 2k on a nice mini split to keep up with heat from HPSs
Good! I'm not an electrician, but the wiring in that panel looks insane to me. Why are there neutral wires connected to breakers?
Blissfarms2020
Active Member
After this harvest ill pay the extra for the professional work.
JoeyAfros
Active Member
yeah i don't agree that 'led's compromise yields'. , not decent quality LED anyway. sorta old thinking.
Renfro
Well-Known Member
Well if a problem occurs where for some reason an over current condition exists on one of those receptacles then likely it will melt down, unless the breaker feeding the timer and thus the receptacles is a 15 amp breaker, it appears to be a 20, at least it's not a 30 amps which is what the #10 cable is rated for. I wonder what the breaker is feeding this from the garage and how the work looks behind that. You never run a cable out of the cover like that. The way the cable is run is not good at all, if you are gonna go sketch like that then at least use metal clad.
There is no neutral being run to the sub panel, thats just not ever done, should be 10-3 cable with the extra red wire for the second phase. The white wires that are apparently being used as the other hot phase should be marked with black or red tape on both ends to show it's not a neutral. We don't even need a sub panel there honestly. It's pointless.
Whoever did this has no idea what they are doing and that makes me wonder how pretty the termination of that #10 wire is landing on those 15 amp 120 volt receptacles (at 240 volts). It's difficult to cleanly land #10 wire on receptacles made for #14, then jam it back in the metal box lol, not saying it can't be done, shouldn't be done though and someone with the other apparent skills may have some sketch work going on behind the covers.
There is no neutral being run to the sub panel, thats just not ever done, should be 10-3 cable with the extra red wire for the second phase. The white wires that are apparently being used as the other hot phase should be marked with black or red tape on both ends to show it's not a neutral. We don't even need a sub panel there honestly. It's pointless.
Whoever did this has no idea what they are doing and that makes me wonder how pretty the termination of that #10 wire is landing on those 15 amp 120 volt receptacles (at 240 volts). It's difficult to cleanly land #10 wire on receptacles made for #14, then jam it back in the metal box lol, not saying it can't be done, shouldn't be done though and someone with the other apparent skills may have some sketch work going on behind the covers.
sf_frankie
Well-Known Member
Your exhaust fan is sucking out all of the air conditioned air before it has a chance to cool down the room. Since your lights are air cooled by that same fan you can’t just turn it off when the AC is on so you’re kinda screwed. I just went thru a similar situation and I ended up just ordering a minisplit.
Amazon has a 12000btu unit from some brand called pioneer for $750. They have a deal where you can buy it and make payments with zero interest or credit check. It’s like $150/mo for 5 months. They just automatically charge your card monthly.
a temporary solution would be to get your air for your lights from outside of the room and running a scrubber for odor control. But by the time you buy another fan and filter you’re already half way to the cost of the minisplit. I’ve got my temps under control by doing that while I wait for the minisplit but since I run leds I don’t have to worry about cooling my lights.
Amazon has a 12000btu unit from some brand called pioneer for $750. They have a deal where you can buy it and make payments with zero interest or credit check. It’s like $150/mo for 5 months. They just automatically charge your card monthly.
a temporary solution would be to get your air for your lights from outside of the room and running a scrubber for odor control. But by the time you buy another fan and filter you’re already half way to the cost of the minisplit. I’ve got my temps under control by doing that while I wait for the minisplit but since I run leds I don’t have to worry about cooling my lights.
Teag
Well-Known Member
I'm not an electrician either but my guess is he is running 220v? So the black and white wires are hot and the neutral wire is actually a ground wire?
I'm pretty bad as this stuff though.
sf_frankie
Well-Known Member
220 should have two hot wires, a neutral and a ground no?
what ever it is, it looks dangerous.
Teag
Well-Known Member
In my limited research, no. And it makes sense if you search for British plugs and see that they only have 3 prongs.
I re-read Renfro's post and he says a neutral should be run to the subpanel from the main. No argument there from me on that one
Blissfarms2020
Active Member
I will hire a pro little bit later, this was a cheap guy who did this to get me by for little while.
Blissfarms2020
Active Member
Let me ask you this is there a chance that this jank setup may be costing me more energy on my electric bill? Or anything like that? I did get solar panels on my home so thats big big help but just want to know all the concerns to this electric work. The guy for sure said my four lights would be good tho and they have so far. But definitely will get it professionally done and get those wires hid and cleaned.
Renfro
Well-Known Member
SPLFreak808
Well-Known Member
Some of those do look undersized for a whole grow room that has to deal with inrush current, if those wires are heating up, you are paying for a wire heater.
Murphy's law is as real as it gets when it comes to electrical wiring, I don't even leave wires/power strips on the floor no more.