CheGueVapo
Well-Known Member
The mission:
Take use of the remaining electricity power of the LED-lamp in terms of excess heat, that is currently in general designs heating the cooler, than passed via convecting ribbs to the air above the lamp to the exhaust-ventilation, instead to take that heat and use it as radiation to cool the LED-board and to pass on the heat to the surfaces of the plants for higher metabolism, without ventilating the heat over the ribbs down again with extra fans or such, no cheats. Thou shall radiate, and shant convect!
In short: create a greenhouse-effect, with the same existing power from the line. Modify only the cooler, nothing else! Use radiation, avoid convection!
Shorter: Build a infraret-heat-mat into the lamp and do not use any additional power for it...
briefing:
dude, im higher like nobody else, for sure, but Im not kidding. This truly is possible with different fixtures. Open your mind to the possibilities that a different fixture gives you to create high-tech lamps. Heat is not gone-energy! It's still there, waiting for re-direction. Better concepts of the fixture not only allows us to take use of the LEDs heat to infrared-radiate heat our greenery effectively on purpose in milder climates, it also unlocks other features that increase the effectiveness of our lamps greatly. Also in the final, lots of the effects that can be gathered by intelligent fixture synnergistically increase the yield per watts! There's lots to gain, while the LED-chips themselves nearing "end" of further great improvings!
A good fixture the makes a good lamp out of good chips, but without the good fixture, the best chips cannot unfold to their full potential.
This chapter is the first of sharing my hole lamp new design, so the ideas that sum up the concept may be yours, in the sense of open source. If you are not interested or have no sense of understanding, please start no argue, but leave the thread.
I already did a small prototype for the breeding chamber. During the construction of that lamp, I made my findings at first, elaborated the scientific explanations causing the concept to work and verified that it is working good in raising the leaf surface temperature with measurements and therefore come to the conclusion in line with scientific reasearch on using infrared in greenhouses is far more effective and also better for plant metabolism than air-heating ever can be, still having low board temperatures for the LEDs possible; so I decided to build such a fixture for my flowering lamp too.
Lets start to get the head around it....
I.) To cool without convention, thus heating the plants with radiation. Kind of magic? Nooo some clever engineering will does the trick.
To achieve the mission goal, I needed a big anodised aluminium cooler of more than two thirds of my square.
Best and cheapest way with high grade of customisability are DIN-notch-rails, thank you german-engineers, this is great stuff!
So I bought nine times 8020 notch 5 rails of the length 1m, that makes a cooler-square size of 0,72 x 1m (0,72m²) for my box 0,9 x 1,2m (1,08m²) square.
These alone weight about 15kg, so the construction needs to be stable.
To achieve stability I connected the notch-rails with enough steel-screwed steel-plate-connectors in steel-notchstones.
Also I needed a strong ergonomic grip/handle to lift the beast for connecting the mounting-cords when installing the lamp.
Step 1 - the core
Assembling those parts of it the right way to distribute the weight over the construction propperly. This was no great brainer. It took me less than an hour and the resulted bare upper side looked this:
Im very satisfied with the stability of the cooler-fixture itself and the handle-stability. It seems "heavyweight" but any small girl can deadlift 20kg and the box/tents can handle it too, so I'm ok with that whopper.
The LEDs later going to be fixed with screws into the free blank notches of the bottom side with notchstones.
I an have any position for any module on this system-rails/notches.
Now lets get deeper into the "how to radiate" the heat towards the plants.
The LED modules from the bottom side is where the heat comes from.
A blackbody would emit all directions the same, but the heat in our scenario isn't generated from within the body in the middle, but is coming from one side, the led-platina/chip-side.
This means our cooler has different temperatures on different sides.
The top-side and the outer sides going to be cooler than the LED-side, where the heat comes from.
According to the law of Stefan Boltzman a surface at double the temperature to its ambient emits 16 times the heat-radiation.
This also means that a side that is only 1/8th hotter than the other sites compared to the surrounding air emits double the heat-rationen than the other sides. Wow! What does that mean?
Lets assume the ambient temperature around the lamp in running operation is 25°C.
Lets assume the coolers led-side heats up to 41°C... thats a differential +16°K
When the top side now heats up to only 39°C (-2°K), because of the differential delta... thats 1/8th lower than the LEDs-down-side.
This means without isolating the other sides at all, from the start, barely open, the down-side already emits double the heat radiation than the other sides... only because of this slight temperature differential. Amazing finding that Stefan-Boltzman made in the 19th century
!
So at this point of the construction... more than 66% of the heat already leaving the down side! Great!
How to maximise the effect now?
When we isolate the other sides further against air-heat-convetion and against ir-heat-radiation-loss, than the led-side heats up only another +1°K and radiates nearly ALL the heat from the cooler. Thats remarbably and it is really that easy! It's easy to isolate the other sides.
Blank aluminium reflects 95% of the infrared radiation, unlike anodised which absorbs/emits 90%.... same material, different surface-texture. Magic? No, just physics. The atoms doesn't matter to the heat, nor does the color, that only matters for visible light, but for heatradiation only the materials outer surface/texture/structure/arrangements matters. The more surface on a microscopic level, then the MORE surface is emmiting at the same "square"... the rougher, the more surface, the more emission.
Step 2: Directing the Infrared
Reflect IR the top and sides of the cooler back into the cooler and hinder convection... for the top side, i choose a cheap "reflectix"-foil (not the original, but a similar product). For the sides around i picked 1mm-aluminium plates, but dont screwed them with heat contact directly, just layed a rubber ring inbetween... and I made them plates bigger, 5 cm down the led-side, because i want to apply a high reflective mirror-foil on the inside, to reflect sideways light and heat through the entire growing space... but thats part of the next step.
The intermediate result looks like this:
<<At this point i must interrupt with a "under construction", sorry. It's a live process, please be patient, this project is not a in haste!>>
This is what follows
Step 3: inner mirror reflecting
Step 4: modules, spectrum, placement, mastering the 60khrs
Step 5: Re-reflecting the green photons from the plants towards the plants (enhance the green photon yield)
Step 6: Installing switches for tweaking the blue spectrum "down" for lowering color temperature <3000K
Step 7: best drivers and how to DIM them intelligently via easily 0...10Vsensors without energy-consuming processor
Step 8: the automatic-override manual control board... you take control, any time you want, semi or full
Step 9: the IP65-sealing, safe from water from all sides, protecting the LEDs
Just to give you a hint on what it may look like in the end, the small lamp prototype looks like this, just a lot bigger, and a lot different
The extra IRwarming effect is present.... the lamp operates cool below 40°C
This is the inner reflector effect (mono ehancement at early stage, compared to the final above):
To give you a clue what it does... direct the light, so less hit the walls at the outer LEDs and leaks above the lamp.
The overall high size allows for good radiation, white special light enhancing tape or white-matt coating increases emissivity of the aluminium higher than 0.9 to at about 0.95 (from a max 1 ideal blackbody), still reflecting +94% of the PAR light reflectance of the plants back at them.
The lamps allows for ultra short distance, still super high homogenity, increased PPFD. The synergizing effect stockpile.
Needless to say the system-effiency at fuill load+1000µmols beeing around 3,5 PPE !!! ... and you efficiently use the heat!
That runs out about 98-99% overall system efficieny....and over about 13 years non-stop growing a luminance maintenance over 90%, aiming 100 CRI, for sure.
Unlocking a hole new level of efficiency! Stay tuned. I'll bump it with any next step! Im going to comparethe hard in hard test to my actual high intense grow trying to drive that to the max, to not have it tooo easy on beating myself. The run goes with NIR... its crazy valid booster, I recommend it (6-8%)
28th day after switching the lights:
Circles is the NIR positions 90° and 150° chips of 850nm and 960nm....
TRY! You find them from osram or lumileds...
49th:
Cheers!... the landlord!
The NASA cant do anthing i cant to better...
Take use of the remaining electricity power of the LED-lamp in terms of excess heat, that is currently in general designs heating the cooler, than passed via convecting ribbs to the air above the lamp to the exhaust-ventilation, instead to take that heat and use it as radiation to cool the LED-board and to pass on the heat to the surfaces of the plants for higher metabolism, without ventilating the heat over the ribbs down again with extra fans or such, no cheats. Thou shall radiate, and shant convect!
In short: create a greenhouse-effect, with the same existing power from the line. Modify only the cooler, nothing else! Use radiation, avoid convection!
Shorter: Build a infraret-heat-mat into the lamp and do not use any additional power for it...
briefing:
dude, im higher like nobody else, for sure, but Im not kidding. This truly is possible with different fixtures. Open your mind to the possibilities that a different fixture gives you to create high-tech lamps. Heat is not gone-energy! It's still there, waiting for re-direction. Better concepts of the fixture not only allows us to take use of the LEDs heat to infrared-radiate heat our greenery effectively on purpose in milder climates, it also unlocks other features that increase the effectiveness of our lamps greatly. Also in the final, lots of the effects that can be gathered by intelligent fixture synnergistically increase the yield per watts! There's lots to gain, while the LED-chips themselves nearing "end" of further great improvings!A good fixture the makes a good lamp out of good chips, but without the good fixture, the best chips cannot unfold to their full potential.
This chapter is the first of sharing my hole lamp new design, so the ideas that sum up the concept may be yours, in the sense of open source. If you are not interested or have no sense of understanding, please start no argue, but leave the thread.
I already did a small prototype for the breeding chamber. During the construction of that lamp, I made my findings at first, elaborated the scientific explanations causing the concept to work and verified that it is working good in raising the leaf surface temperature with measurements and therefore come to the conclusion in line with scientific reasearch on using infrared in greenhouses is far more effective and also better for plant metabolism than air-heating ever can be, still having low board temperatures for the LEDs possible; so I decided to build such a fixture for my flowering lamp too.
Lets start to get the head around it....
I.) To cool without convention, thus heating the plants with radiation. Kind of magic? Nooo some clever engineering will does the trick.
To achieve the mission goal, I needed a big anodised aluminium cooler of more than two thirds of my square.
Best and cheapest way with high grade of customisability are DIN-notch-rails, thank you german-engineers, this is great stuff!
So I bought nine times 8020 notch 5 rails of the length 1m, that makes a cooler-square size of 0,72 x 1m (0,72m²) for my box 0,9 x 1,2m (1,08m²) square.
These alone weight about 15kg, so the construction needs to be stable.
To achieve stability I connected the notch-rails with enough steel-screwed steel-plate-connectors in steel-notchstones.
Also I needed a strong ergonomic grip/handle to lift the beast for connecting the mounting-cords when installing the lamp.
Step 1 - the core
Assembling those parts of it the right way to distribute the weight over the construction propperly. This was no great brainer. It took me less than an hour and the resulted bare upper side looked this:
Im very satisfied with the stability of the cooler-fixture itself and the handle-stability. It seems "heavyweight" but any small girl can deadlift 20kg and the box/tents can handle it too, so I'm ok with that whopper.
The LEDs later going to be fixed with screws into the free blank notches of the bottom side with notchstones.
I an have any position for any module on this system-rails/notches.
Now lets get deeper into the "how to radiate" the heat towards the plants.
The LED modules from the bottom side is where the heat comes from.
A blackbody would emit all directions the same, but the heat in our scenario isn't generated from within the body in the middle, but is coming from one side, the led-platina/chip-side.
This means our cooler has different temperatures on different sides.
The top-side and the outer sides going to be cooler than the LED-side, where the heat comes from.
According to the law of Stefan Boltzman a surface at double the temperature to its ambient emits 16 times the heat-radiation.
This also means that a side that is only 1/8th hotter than the other sites compared to the surrounding air emits double the heat-rationen than the other sides. Wow! What does that mean?
Lets assume the ambient temperature around the lamp in running operation is 25°C.
Lets assume the coolers led-side heats up to 41°C... thats a differential +16°K
When the top side now heats up to only 39°C (-2°K), because of the differential delta... thats 1/8th lower than the LEDs-down-side.
This means without isolating the other sides at all, from the start, barely open, the down-side already emits double the heat radiation than the other sides... only because of this slight temperature differential. Amazing finding that Stefan-Boltzman made in the 19th century
!So at this point of the construction... more than 66% of the heat already leaving the down side! Great!
How to maximise the effect now?
When we isolate the other sides further against air-heat-convetion and against ir-heat-radiation-loss, than the led-side heats up only another +1°K and radiates nearly ALL the heat from the cooler. Thats remarbably and it is really that easy! It's easy to isolate the other sides.
Blank aluminium reflects 95% of the infrared radiation, unlike anodised which absorbs/emits 90%.... same material, different surface-texture. Magic? No, just physics. The atoms doesn't matter to the heat, nor does the color, that only matters for visible light, but for heatradiation only the materials outer surface/texture/structure/arrangements matters. The more surface on a microscopic level, then the MORE surface is emmiting at the same "square"... the rougher, the more surface, the more emission.
Step 2: Directing the Infrared
Reflect IR the top and sides of the cooler back into the cooler and hinder convection... for the top side, i choose a cheap "reflectix"-foil (not the original, but a similar product). For the sides around i picked 1mm-aluminium plates, but dont screwed them with heat contact directly, just layed a rubber ring inbetween... and I made them plates bigger, 5 cm down the led-side, because i want to apply a high reflective mirror-foil on the inside, to reflect sideways light and heat through the entire growing space... but thats part of the next step.
The intermediate result looks like this:
<<At this point i must interrupt with a "under construction", sorry. It's a live process, please be patient, this project is not a in haste!>>
This is what follows
Step 3: inner mirror reflecting
Step 4: modules, spectrum, placement, mastering the 60khrs
Step 5: Re-reflecting the green photons from the plants towards the plants (enhance the green photon yield)
Step 6: Installing switches for tweaking the blue spectrum "down" for lowering color temperature <3000K
Step 7: best drivers and how to DIM them intelligently via easily 0...10Vsensors without energy-consuming processor
Step 8: the automatic-override manual control board... you take control, any time you want, semi or full
Step 9: the IP65-sealing, safe from water from all sides, protecting the LEDs
Just to give you a hint on what it may look like in the end, the small lamp prototype looks like this, just a lot bigger, and a lot different
The extra IRwarming effect is present.... the lamp operates cool below 40°C
This is the inner reflector effect (mono ehancement at early stage, compared to the final above):
To give you a clue what it does... direct the light, so less hit the walls at the outer LEDs and leaks above the lamp.
The overall high size allows for good radiation, white special light enhancing tape or white-matt coating increases emissivity of the aluminium higher than 0.9 to at about 0.95 (from a max 1 ideal blackbody), still reflecting +94% of the PAR light reflectance of the plants back at them.
The lamps allows for ultra short distance, still super high homogenity, increased PPFD. The synergizing effect stockpile.
Needless to say the system-effiency at fuill load+1000µmols beeing around 3,5 PPE !!! ... and you efficiently use the heat!
That runs out about 98-99% overall system efficieny....and over about 13 years non-stop growing a luminance maintenance over 90%, aiming 100 CRI, for sure.
Unlocking a hole new level of efficiency! Stay tuned. I'll bump it with any next step! Im going to comparethe hard in hard test to my actual high intense grow trying to drive that to the max, to not have it tooo easy on beating myself. The run goes with NIR... its crazy valid booster, I recommend it (6-8%)
28th day after switching the lights:
Circles is the NIR positions 90° and 150° chips of 850nm and 960nm....
TRY! You find them from osram or lumileds...49th:
Cheers!... the landlord!
The NASA cant do anthing i cant to better...
Last edited:
