Could You Grow Three Pounds A Light --- with the right coach?

My point was, with a complete fertilizer and added Cal/Mag, nothing else is really needed to produce high quality, heavy yielding plants. And yes, over 35 years growing now………..

Sorry if this is your thread and I stepped on some toes, just my opinion.
You didn't step on anyone's toes. I know that Botanicare also sells additives as well. WIth us, you could get away with our base nutrients and that is it.
 

twentyeight.threefive

Well-Known Member
Hey there. Well we have so many bottles because we have a 9 part system. Actually most nutrient companies have 9+ parts, they just aren't transparent about them. We try to be completely transparent when it comes to our feeding schedule. This is why we chart out the grow by day and not by week. The idea is to follow our feeding chart, use the three a light method, and you will up your game.
My nutrient line is completely transparent. It's Part A 5-12-16, Part B 15-0-0, and Epsom Salt. That's 3 parts.
 

Boreal Curing

Well-Known Member
Lighting is more important than feed at that level. To get that you need to push your lighting hard. Like a DLI (Daily light interval) of 2000. Some plants have a light sweet spot before you start losing yield. But like corn, cannabis will use all you can throw at it (before you bleach it). With that much light, your air circulation, transpiration, water and feed regiment will be very intense. If you've ever grow a plant to harvest in a tiny container, you know you have to water and feed several times a day. Same for something like what you want to do.

I don't have the stamina to do that for a few months, so I'd absolutely automate and babysit a drip system otherwise you'll drive yourself bonkers trying to keep up at that pace.

This video is worthwhile to watch.
 

Freshbakd

Well-Known Member
imo to get huge yields there's a lot at play as many have said, but the actual strain choice has a lot to do with yields. just my 2 cents to add. of course you wont get huge yields with any strain if you don't have everything running proper.
 

LeastExpectedGrower

Well-Known Member
Lighting is more important than feed at that level. To get that you need to push your lighting hard. Like a DLI (Daily light interval) of 2000. Some plants have a light sweet spot before you start losing yield. But like corn, cannabis will use all you can throw at it (before you bleach it). With that much light, your air circulation, transpiration, water and feed regiment will be very intense. If you've ever grow a plant to harvest in a tiny container, you know you have to water and feed several times a day. Same for something like what you want to do.

I don't have the stamina to do that for a few months, so I'd absolutely automate and babysit a drip system otherwise you'll drive yourself bonkers trying to keep up at that pace.

This video is worthwhile to watch.
DLI of 2000?

Are you living on the sun.
 

MisterKister

Well-Known Member
Alas, there's too many variables to say this. Different stages want different light levels, individual plant sensitivity, environmental conditions, whether you're using CO2, etc. all changes DLI targeting.
That's why I said allegedly.. dli for cannabis flowering is between 30 and 60 veg 15 to 30 and clones are 6 and 15
 

MAGpie81

Well-Known Member
.

LOL!

From what I understand 'Three A Light' is and A-B-C type instruction book that should be easy to follow. I'll know more in a couple of days.

.
How much does that book sell for these days? I’ve heard it’s really expensive, and I think the technique is pretty simple to find online. Not bashing, just curious
 

MAGpie81

Well-Known Member
My nutrient line is completely transparent. It's Part A 5-12-16, Part B 15-0-0, and Epsom Salt. That's 3 parts.
Just browsing here, and not a bottle feeder, but when you say Part B, when is that incorporated in schedule? I always thought A essentially means Veg, and B means bloom; I ask because that would be a hell of a lot of N for bloom.
 

twentyeight.threefive

Well-Known Member
Just browsing here, and not a bottle feeder, but when you say Part B, when is that incorporated in schedule? I always thought A essentially means Veg, and B means bloom; I ask because that would be a hell of a lot of N for bloom.
I don't use bottles to feed either.

Part B is NPK 15-0-0. It's calcium nitrate.

Part A is just one part and Part B is just another. Could easily be called Part 1 and Part 2, they don't have anything to do with either veg or bloom.
 
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MAGpie81

Well-Known Member
I don't use bottles to feed either.

Part B is NPK 15-0-0. It's calcium nitrate.

Part A is just one part and Part B is just another. Could easily be called Part 1 and Part 2, they don't have anything to do with either veg or bloom.
I asked because I use an npk test kit that really only gives a ballpark reading but I’m always interested in the different ratios and when to use them. I have an ibc tank of fish guts and plant matter that I use to feed reading what ratios others use is helpful. Thanks
 

Hobbes

Well-Known Member
How much does that book sell for these days? I’ve heard it’s really expensive, and I think the technique is pretty simple to find online. Not bashing, just curious
.

Magpie they started selling the books at $500 USD and they sold 2000 books at that price. The last I checked they were selling the books for $300.

I was gifted a second "3 A Light" as a give away, anyone interested just leave your name in this thread and I'll do a raffle in a couple of months.

.
 

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
It's a shame these folks that sold 2000 copies at a silly price didn't realise they'd of sold a million if they'd sold it at $50 but they wanted to act like it's some secret shit.

I'm sure youl do well anyway , your lights a shit load better now, I think you just needed to employ a better training regime though.

Anyway I'll follow just to support your thread because your a quality poster and all round good bloke.
 
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