Curing newbie question

Yep took the words right out my mouth......tell me Dave how EXACTLY.....did u come to the 72% mark....curious....I am

Greenhouse;save said:

Yep took the words right out my mouth......tell me Dave how EXACTLY.....did u come to the 72% mark....curious....I am

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Not sure I am follow. I actually had three drying methods going. A rack, some strung, 1 plant hanging whole. I jarred a couple racks, about 5 ozs, the first wave one evening and about 7 hours later my analog hygrometer showed 72. I reracked them. They initially got jarred when they felt a bit crispy on the outside. But still a bit soft on the inside. Stems dry but not snapable. Is that what you were looking for?

dave, yeah generally you dont want stems to break off completely when test snapping, test this idea out, it worked for me but can vary slightly depending on temp and humidity in your region. drop the humidity to 65% then jar at that and burp once or twice a day till it is steady at 62-63 percent, then keep it in a cardboard box for a few weeks up to 2-3 months max before burping. If your humidity rises more than 12 percent or 1 percent an hour over a 12 hour period, then its not time to keep them jarred up. the way it was explained, you dry it out as slow as possible before jarring up, dont go to extreme methods, or mold, but just make sure before you get it jarred and sealed to hit the 65% mark at max. Once you do that, you can burp every 8-12 weeks and the reason was that there are reactions happening inside the jar, chemical, chloraphyl breaking down and when you burp it, the process starts over. Now im neither a botanist nor a pro or maybe not even an amateur. ha ha ha, but thats the general specs i can give you that didnt fuck my herb up. i will say hanging a whole plant and as the smaller dry out first, they are the first to go, some chop it whole hang it up then cut away from the hung plant as it comes into curing zone. others will dry whole plant for a few days to slow it down and then cut branches off and hang those the remaining couple few days then jar smaller cure zone buds first and moving up the ladder to fat colas. some leave fan leaves on in dry climates or seasonal, some take em off if it creates mold. you get the idea. its been a long day.. lol

Very satisfied thx...

bravedave said:

How did these hygrometers work out? I suffered through using 2 for 12 jars. Did finish off a nice slow dry to success though. Had a nice pile of hash fixings that got moldy due to grower error and lack of more hygrometers, however.

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Took them forever to get here. But once I finally got them they seem to have helped a bit. I wouldn't say I needed them but they were cheap. Plus I ordered 1 for every jar.Hope you have better luck in the future with using them if you decide to do so

Greenhouse;save said:

Like these ones they do a grand job........

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thats some hot sex right there..

losangeles said:

thats some hot sex right there..

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Thx...blue cheese...great smoke.

bravedave said:

As the regular packs say they are good for 2 months this seems like the way to go.

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You probably know this, but Bovedas can be rehydrated. I rotate mine through a canning jar with a piece of wet sponge. I put the sponge inside a baggie so it doesn't make physical contact with the Bovedas. The baggie is left open so it will replace moisture in the air as the Bovedas absorb moisture from the air.

There's a risk of using a Boveda too long. It can rupture and leak. After I've used mine awhile I isolate them with a plastic baggy too (when I put it in a jar of cannabis).

"1st cure went well, but 2nd cure drying area was too warm. Dried too quickly and made buds a little harsher"

Here's how to fix the crispy critter problem while drying/curing --
Fold a couple paper towels until they fit easily into a sandwich baggie. Run some hot water over the towels before placing them into the baggie. You want them to stand up inside the baggie so that all the moisture is contained within the inside of the baggie. Dump all your crispies into your big jar and place the baggie inside the jar so that it sits above the buds. Seal the jar for 12-24 hours and check. The idea behind curing in a sealed container is that all the moisture within the jar gets evenly distributed within the jar. If we didn't cure like this all the small buds would end up crispy and the bigger buds would still hold too much moisture. Anyway, the moisture in the paper towels will leach into the buds and de-crispize them. We call tis re-hydration. Good luck, BigSteve.

P.S. If you have any more problems be sure to send me the product for a fast test ;>) .

hey @bigsteve have you ever had a reduction in smell from re-hydration? just curious

"hey @bigsteve have you ever had a reduction in smell from re-hydration? just curious"

I had some bud a while ago that smelled like beaver farts when cured. I laid it out to get crispy, took 48 hours. Then I re-hydrated using an orange slice instead of water. 24 hours in the jar and I had re-hydrated product with a citrus smell.

BigSteve.

A better way would b to add some POTATOE Skins to the area being used(big tin is ideal)this Will soften up any bud that has gone to dry......my old man used to use this method for his tobacco in his tin and it works a treat and doesn't leave a smell or tast.....try it....

"A better way would b to add some POTATOE Skins to the area being used(big tin is ideal)this Will soften up any bud that has gone to dry......my old man used to use this method for his tobacco in his tin and it works a treat and doesn't leave a smell or tast.....try it...."

Good idea! Come to think of it I got my idea for using citrus to re-hydrate after watching my uncle slice orange peels into his pipe tobacco.

BigSteve.

It definitely works......we have alot to learn off the old timers lol.....

I just utilized fan leaves in a few jars that were around 58 after their first 24 hours. I removed each leaf after another 24 hours and all jars were above 62 and have remained there.

Yea.....sounds like a plan Dave .......removing fan leaves you have placed in the jar allows you to control r/h.............Perfect.......

Greenhouse;save said:

Yea.....sounds like a plan Dave .......removing fan leaves you have placed in the jar allows you to control r/h.............Perfect.......

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Not sure you understood. I added the fan leaf like you would a potato after I saw a few jars were below 60 at first jarring. Had read about it recently here also. Like these posts here it sounded old school and it is valid...And my weed doesn't smell like a potato. . Not sure how far you could bring them back from but if all you want is 4-6 % points, that now is the way I would go.

So forgive me for asking but I interpreted you as putting the fans in first to act like a conditioner......checking the r/h......if it was to dry then in with more fan leaves.......to humid take it out....is that not wot your post says.........forgive me if I'm wrong......

Greenhouse;save said:

So forgive me for asking but I interpreted you as putting the fans in first to act like a conditioner......checking the r/h......if it was to dry then in with more fan leaves.......to dry take it out....is that not wot your post says.........forgive me if I'm wrong......

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Sorry, I am not always clear. You may have a similar problem ^^^^.
For clarity:
1. Wet trimmed, string-hung about a week.
2 Jarred for 24 hours.
3. Checked Jar Rhs. Most at around 64. 4 at around 58.
4. Put a fan leaf in the 4 dryer jars.
5. Jarred for 24 hours.
6. Took leaf out of the 4.
7. Rh at 62 or better now a couple days later in those 4 jars.

So yeah, at least for small Rh gains, a fan leaf has to be the simplest way to go.

Thx for clarifying Dave......Yea like you said if they hold as much moisture as a potato....then obviously I would use the fans first