Curled up leaves and burned tip.. What am I doing wrong?

N

Noobgorilla

Member
I have recently fed the plant with 1:1:1npk for the first time and a few days after I see this on my leaves and showing light green on the lower leaves. It has been 5 weeks since I popped it in soil.

I'm using 30% paralite and vermiculite the rest is soil.
1000w leds.
Temps been lower than usual but I try to keep it between 70 to 80.
Humidity 40-60%.

Can someone tell me what's wrong with my plant? And how to fix this?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20200128_223251.jpg
    IMG_20200128_223251.jpg
    7.1 MB · Views: 87
  • IMG_20200128_223257.jpg
    IMG_20200128_223257.jpg
    4.4 MB · Views: 85
  • IMG_20200122_231103.jpg
    IMG_20200122_231103.jpg
    6 MB · Views: 83
  • IMG_20200128_223245.jpg
    IMG_20200128_223245.jpg
    5.3 MB · Views: 79
  • IMG_20200128_223257.jpg
    IMG_20200128_223257.jpg
    4.4 MB · Views: 70
  • IMG_20200122_231012.jpg
    IMG_20200122_231012.jpg
    4.2 MB · Views: 69
  • IMG_20200122_231044.jpg
    IMG_20200122_231044.jpg
    5 MB · Views: 58
Kinda hard to say what is wrong without knowing what or how much soluble nutrient was given. 1-1-1 shouldn't burn easily but it is possible you either gave a little too much or maybe even not enough. To eliminate guessing it may be easier to start again with a clean slate so to speak. This is what I would do with a plant that looks as sad as this one:
Mix up some fresh soil with worm castings and transplant to a slightly larger container. Use a decent organic garden soil; something that contains humus. Sprinkle granular mycorrhizae in the hole and place the root ball directly on top of it; get some myco if you don't have any on hand. See if that helps; ewc and myco can prop up a plant like you wouldn't believe.
Many times we think the plant is starving when in fact the soil has just become inactive. Adding some compost and fungal innoculant will improve overall soil health, increase microbial activity, and improve absorbtion. Try to get away from using soluble liquid npk and instead add a natural fertilizer directly to the mix. In organic grows it's better to sort of give them what they need before they need it; then just water your plants. Save the nutes in case things go south in mid flowering.
 
A few moons ago I had a simalar thing happen. I know you running LEDs and not a great amount of heat is radiated off them but does you’re occilating fan blow past you’re lights on to plant
 
Kiwi88Kush said:
A few moons ago I had a simalar thing happen. I know you running LEDs and not a great amount of heat is radiated off them but does you’re occilating fan blow past you’re lights on to plant
Click to expand...
Yes its mainly directed upwards towards the light and circulate air basically.
My leds have the veg and bloom switch but right now it's on veg only and I'm thinking to turn on both switches for a while to see how it goes.. Do o think it's a good idea or no need?
 
Last edited:
Richard Drysift said:
Kinda hard to say what is wrong without knowing what or how much soluble nutrient was given. 1-1-1 shouldn't burn easily but it is possible you either gave a little too much or maybe even not enough. To eliminate guessing it may be easier to start again with a clean slate so to speak. This is what I would do with a plant that looks as sad as this one:
Mix up some fresh soil with worm castings and transplant to a slightly larger container. Use a decent organic garden soil; something that contains humus. Sprinkle granular mycorrhizae in the hole and place the root ball directly on top of it; get some myco if you don't have any on hand. See if that helps; ewc and myco can prop up a plant like you wouldn't believe.
Many times we think the plant is starving when in fact the soil has just become inactive. Adding some compost and fungal innoculant will improve overall soil health, increase microbial activity, and improve absorbtion. Try to get away from using soluble liquid npk and instead add a natural fertilizer directly to the mix. In organic grows it's better to sort of give them what they need before they need it; then just water your plants. Save the nutes in case things go south in mid flowering.
Click to expand...
Thank you so much for the advice.. I think I'll follow ur advice
 
The first set of leaves on young seed plants contain nutrients that were in the seed. When your plants are small, before they develop strong roots and start taking nutrients from the soil, they take nutrients from the first, lowest leaves. So a few weeks in your plant can be 100% cool, but the smallest, oldest leaves are sucked out, showing deficiency while the newer, bigger top leaves look good. Often these "damaged" leaves don't recover, so it's normal for the damaged leaves to yellow, shrivel and eventually fall off.

The same thing can happen with clones. The clone sucks nutrients from the fan leaves before it has roots, these leaves yellow. When they clone roots and normal growth starts these lower, yellowed leaves shrivel and fall off.

To me, it looks like you overreacted a little to the yellowing of the lowest leaves (cotyledon) and fed some fertilizer prematurely and burned your leaves a little. A would water until you get a little run off to remove any liquid nutrients from the soil and chill out for a minute to let your plant get back to normal.

From there, when you have nice strong roots you can repot in a bigger container.
 
youraveragehorticulturist said:
The first set of leaves on young seed plants contain nutrients that were in the seed. When your plants are small, before they develop strong roots and start taking nutrients from the soil, they take nutrients from the first, lowest leaves. So a few weeks in your plant can be 100% cool, but the smallest, oldest leaves are sucked out, showing deficiency while the newer, bigger top leaves look good. Often these "damaged" leaves don't recover, so it's normal for the damaged leaves to yellow, shrivel and eventually fall off.

The same thing can happen with clones. The clone sucks nutrients from the fan leaves before it has roots, these leaves yellow. When they clone roots and normal growth starts these lower, yellowed leaves shrivel and fall off.

To me, it looks like you overreacted a little to the yellowing of the lowest leaves (cotyledon) and fed some fertilizer prematurely and burned your leaves a little. A would water until you get a little run off to remove any liquid nutrients from the soil and chill out for a minute to let your plant get back to normal.

From there, when you have nice strong roots you can repot in a bigger container.
Click to expand...

Okay I already tried to water it and remove the excess nutrients from the soil, but still the leaves r yellowing and curling up.
Even the new growth looked fine to be honest but now it started to curl up again
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20200201_204747.jpg
    IMG_20200201_204747.jpg
    5.4 MB · Views: 22
  • IMG_20200201_205250.jpg
    IMG_20200201_205250.jpg
    5 MB · Views: 30
  • IMG_20200201_204751.jpg
    IMG_20200201_204751.jpg
    4.8 MB · Views: 35
  • IMG_20200201_204824.jpg
    IMG_20200201_204824.jpg
    4.7 MB · Views: 32
Noobgorilla said:
Yes its mainly directed upwards towards the light and circulate air basically.
My leds have the veg and bloom switch but right now it's on veg only and I'm thinking to turn on both switches for a while to see how it goes.. Do o think it's a good idea or no need?
Click to expand...
Keep them vege. My simalar issue was the fans blowing hot air from 1000w hps. How they looking now.
 
I believe you are having a Pand K problem. it is being locked out or something. your main stem is purple and you have yellowing on the edges of your leaves. the leaves are curling upward. these are signs of p and k problems. If you can, since the plants are small. replant the plants. removing most of the dirt. make sure you add some kelp, potash, rock phosphate, bone meal to the dirt. 15ml per gallon. you do not have to add all of them i just named somethings. make a tea using ewc, kelp, bone meal and alaskan humus (ancient forest) you should get a lot of bacteria from that tea. plus the things you are lacking. also the p and k is good for root growth. let the pot dry out some after the watering and do the tea again with 1:2 ratio 1 part tea 2 parts water. we are trying to build up the p and k in the plant while letting the bacteria work on the dirt. . let pot dry and water with a molasses water (introducing mag and sugar). the sugar is for the bacteria and mag will help the plant. then a water again when it is time with some calmag and your base nutrient formula. do not cut or prune anything. your plants are young. they need to eat the right stuff. they need root growth to support the leaves and stem growth.
i build roots first then the plant. roots p and k right amounts plus bacteria. N is in everything just about, Calmag helps
happy roots happy plant. the top will grow fast if the bottom is happy
 
Last edited:
That's was very helpful thank u so much... I'll try to get this stuff asap.. But right now I'm facing a new problem with my plant.. I have compared it with some pictures from the cannabis health care book and I think it's the start of zinc deficiency if I'm not mistaken.. But I checked my soils pH and it's at 7 which isn't so bad.. How do I fix this problem
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20200221_200903.jpg
    IMG_20200221_200903.jpg
    4.1 MB · Views: 20
  • IMG_20200221_200918.jpg
    IMG_20200221_200918.jpg
    4.1 MB · Views: 19
Do one thing at a time. It is rare that plants suffer from micro nutrients. But it is possible. However, I would do one thing at a time. Start with adding the p an k let that take hold. Get the reaction from the plant then move on to something else. Just asking what type of soil. also move your lights away from the plant, maybe 20 inches or so.
 
dwood8165 said:
Do one thing at a time. It is rare that plants suffer from micro nutrients. But it is possible. However, I would do one thing at a time. Start with adding the p an k let that take hold. Get the reaction from the plant then move on to something else. Just asking what type of soil. also move your lights away from the plant, maybe 20 inches or so.
Click to expand...
I use Dr earth potting soil.. Also I've read online that I can use tomatoes fertilizer for cannabis they like the same stuff.. I want a solution that won't really require a lot of maintenance and easy to find
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20200223_135117.jpg
    IMG_20200223_135117.jpg
    5.1 MB · Views: 7
Noobgorilla said:
Yes its mainly directed upwards towards the light and circulate air basically.
My leds have the veg and bloom switch but right now it's on veg only and I'm thinking to turn on both switches for a while to see how it goes.. Do o think it's a good idea or no need?
Click to expand...
I always run both switches on for mine the veg only doesn't seem to work well for me.
 
This is a major issue. I would bet your light is too close. 1000 w led is no joke. Have you been watering it until it is completely saturated and then letting it dry? Is your water clean? How much nutrient did you give it?
Knowledgeable people have commented, but I would honestly just start over at this point. Make sure you are not overlooking the basics.
 
My 2¢ ...

1. Tomato tone has “ slow “ ( timed ) release nitrogen... sometimes that alone overwhelms a young plant. Causing burns and other uptake issues.

2. Dr. Soil is good ( homegrown label ) so much so it
can feed your plant on ph ( 6.5 /6.7 ) water. Without adding much else. Feeding can be a simple
top dress of same soil and water in kind of simple.

Another method-
Tomato Tone can be also be “ scratched “ into top soil at 1/2 teaspoon per 3 gallon container size to start. Although top dressing with same soil is much easier since you dont have to guess on amount of nute to add , plant soil merely gets a recharge.

3. ALL SWITCHES ON ... no matter the brand.
Running single VEG / BLOOM switches cut down
on an already “ less than advertised “ power
claim ... you want to squeeze all you can out of
those blurple panels.

4. PH water / Feed : If you dont check the ph of
“ whats going IN “ then shit happens. Look at those purple stems ... classic mag issue. Ph at 6.5 - 6.7 and you are good. Add calmag at every other watering to start. LED Grows are notorious for making plants into calmag whores. Phosphorus issue ( yellow leaf edge and brown tip ) mimic nute burn but is really a lockout.

5. Its a learning thing ... ALWAYS start simple so that way you catch where you goofed.

GL
 
I'm just going to throw some simple things out there you may want to double check before continuing. :eyesmoke:
Is your light too close?
Do you have ventilation in your grow space?
Where is your thermometer relative to your canopy?
How did the roots look when you transplanted?
What is the source and PPM of your water?
Did you add calmag source?
I have several of those same hygrometers and the readings vary over 10% between the two.
Is your light too close?
What doses of nutrients have you used?
I'm not trying to be a pain, I'm an engineer.
I really hope you get straightened around.
Happy growing. :peace:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top