yes and those fans are rated at something like 50,000 hours and are meant to cool $300 CPUS
And a fanless heatsink is rated at infinity...
I also agree with you that active is the way to go in most cases but that is because of cost not redundancy.
yes and those fans are rated at something like 50,000 hours and are meant to cool $300 CPUS
I am not very fearful of failure of the lights or fans, but then again my grows are small, I still wouldnt want to lose one to light failure, but I have had the same thoughts about each cob being seperate, so if one fails, the rest remain on, going forward as I ad more cobs, i just didnt know if i wanted 6 drivers in the top of my box, or 6 drivers hanging on my light fixture?,, I like the latest lights from realstyles that use the large heat sink and one big fan and one driver for 4 cobs, simplies things greatly,, but then one fan failure or one driver failure and the majority of my cobs go darkAs I said it's personal choice. I've dealt with passive cooling failures in PC's for years, I wouldn't want to run the risk of my light failing and waiting on parts in flower or something. I've seen some pretty elaborate passive cooling options in PC's and regardless of the amount of aluminum or copper they throw on top of the chips they usually fail faster compared to something that has a .03 fan on it.
I'd rather limit risk of failure by at least putting fans on the bars.
I took the philosophy when building mine to make each cob independent of the others. They all have separate drivers and heat sinks and fans. I personally feel safer knowing that if anything fails it's an easy cheap replacement. It may have cost more initially especially the drivers, but I am pretty safe from failures I won't lose my whole light if something goes very wrong.
I didn't mean for this to tear down the guys build at allI think it looks great. I was just offering my .02 CAD
Since we round down here and don't have pennies anymore my .02cents ain't worth shit anyways
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They have a whole bunch of different ones cheap like that. The links I provided was just the first I came across.pretty sure this is a better deal (if you're ok with 2700K):
http://www.newark.com/cree/cxa2530-0000-000n00t227f/led-hb-white-3609lm-screw/dp/44W6083
cxa2530 T2 @ $5.23
Any holders and lenses that fit the CXA/CXB3070 will work with the 3050 same package. Lenses/Reflectors would depend on personal preference and space to be illuminatedWhich holders and lenses... or dependent on space to be lit up? I can drill and tap #4
The 3000 K cxa3070 from vertical are thirty bucks y not y badMaybe we need a "fatwallet" COB thread.
I really wanted a 5000K luminaire and I already have three CXA3590 so I ordered a half dozen CXA3070-0000-000N0HAB50F from here: https://www.verical.com/pd/cree-led-cxa3070-0000-000n0hab50f-879109
$21.47 each, any quantity, free UPS or Fedex ground shipping until August 31.
View attachment 3485962
Compared using Cree PTC ToolWhen comparing flux of the different series, notice the test current is 1400mA for CXA3050, 1900mA for CXA3070, and 2400mA for CXA3590. If my rough calculations are correct, the CD CXA3590 will only be one bin level brighter than the AB CXA3070 when both are driven by the same current.
No problem I have read some threads where some of the PTC numbers could be slightly off from real world tested numbers but I don't remember the details if I come across it again I will link it here also.Thanks, CanadianONE. I just recently started studying COBs and I've seen the Cree PCT referenced before but hadn't tried it. http://www.cree.com/LED-Components-and-Modules/Tools-and-Support/Tools