CXB3590 1500W

ttystikk said:

I think it's legit. It spreads to be a remnant from a larger order.

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Wait are these an older model thats less efficient or inferior?

I found the problem with these....They are 5000K lol

bassman999 said:

Wait are these an older model thats less efficient or inferior?

I found the problem with these....They are 5000K lol

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That's a good color temperature for veg, and there's some debate about how they'd do as bloom lighting. They are very efficient.

ttystikk said:

That's a good color temperature for veg, and there's some debate about how they'd do as bloom lighting. They are very efficient.

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I was under the impression that 4k was the go-to for veg and that 3k was best for bloom, that is if you were to focus around a certain range...?

I would think blooming under 5k would control the first 2 week stretch well though.

Most will tell you :

Flowering 3000K-4000K (some like 2700K, but it's a little extreme imo 3500K is the goto temp these days)
Veg : 5000K is probably the most optimal. (Followeb by 6500K, then 4000K will work OK too)

EfficientWatt said:

Most will tell you :

Flowering 3000K-4000K (some like 2700K, but it's a little extreme imo 3500K is the goto temp these days)
Veg : 5000K is probably the most optimal. (Followeb by 6500K, then 4000K will work OK too)

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Is there any advantage to maybe using a mix of 3000K and 5000K?

bassman999 said:

Is there any advantage to maybe using a mix of 3000K and 5000K?

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Simple answer : nope.

EfficientWatt said:

Simple answer : nope.

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I am just trying to justify buying the 5000K 3590s. The price is hard to pass up.
Its a great deal, but I am not perpetual, and will most likely only make one light.

Well looks like those are 72V, so you could run them at 50W@700mA, and add these 660nm :

http://www.ledrise.com/product_info.php?info=p2605_Osram-Oslon-SSL--High-Power-Hyper-Red-LED--400mW--645nm--Square-PCB-1x1cm.html&language=en&action=add_product

On a HLG 240-C700; 4 COB and 16-20 of the 660s instead of a 5th cob ...

Feeling like an explorer ?

EfficientWatt said:

Well looks like those are 72V, so you could run them at 50W@700mA, and add these 660nm :

http://www.ledrise.com/product_info.php?info=p2605_Osram-Oslon-SSL--High-Power-Hyper-Red-LED--400mW--645nm--Square-PCB-1x1cm.html&language=en&action=add_product

On a HLG 240-C700; 4 COB and 16-20 of the 660s instead of a 5th cob ...

Feeling like an explorer ?

Click to expand...

Nifty idea!

EfficientWatt said:

Well looks like those are 72V, so you could run them at 50W@700mA, and add these 660nm :

http://www.ledrise.com/product_info.php?info=p2605_Osram-Oslon-SSL--High-Power-Hyper-Red-LED--400mW--645nm--Square-PCB-1x1cm.html&language=en&action=add_product

On a HLG 240-C700; 4 COB and 16-20 of the 660s instead of a 5th cob ...

Feeling like an explorer ?

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How do you think that would compare to just running 3500K alone?
I should probably just buy a few of the 5000K to make a small light for early veg

Could that driver (HLG 240-C700) actually push 5 72V leds?
It looks like it it short on max voltage?

CXB3590 72V @ 700ma (from PCT) : run just under 70V => 70*5 = 350V

Constant current region for HLG-240-c700 : 178 ~ 357V

So yes, at ~98% load and ~94% driver efficiency, that's what you call pretty optimal

(Table : https://www.rollitup.org/t/matching-drivers-and-cobs.883866/page-6#post-12039570)

EfficientWatt said:

CXB3590 72V @ 700ma (from PCT) : run just under 70V => 70*5 = 350V

Constant current region for HLG-240-c700 : 178 ~ 357V

So yes, at ~98% load and ~94% driver efficiency, that's what you call pretty optimal

(Table : https://www.rollitup.org/t/matching-drivers-and-cobs.883866/page-6#post-12039570)

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Ok then I have one more question.
If they pull 50 watt at 700mA,, and the driver is rated at 200W will it just give them 40 watts each with 5 in series?


Ive done some more reading on other threads and I think I understand driver and Led pairing now.
Oh and I also noticed that that is a 250 watt driver, and not 200 watts.

bassman999 said:

Ok then I have one more question.
If they pull 50 watt at 700mA,, and the driver is rated at 200W will it just give them 40 watts each with 5 in series?

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No it will be 700ma so 50 watts each basically. Really 48.84 watts each.

Stephenj37826 said:

No it will be 700ma so 50 watts each basically. Really 48.84 watts each.

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Actually, it usually goes a little over the nominal current if not at full load, so it will probably run closer than we think to 50W/cob
(if no pot on dim+ and dim- ..)

I was actually thinking now that I could do (4) 36V cobs on a 709-HLG240H-C1750
I will could dim as needed, and eventually build a 2nd one.
I was struggling with spacing with 5 cobs in my head, and 4 just made more sense to me

hello, now that I have clear the cob and drivers, 6xcxb3590cd 3500k. I have a mess with sinks.

I would like passive cooling with a 80cm bar (31,5inchs), I don`t have acces to heatskinkusa so would be worth any of these(3cxb3590 @1400mA_50w ea per bar)??

https://www.poweralia.com/images/pdf/rg14070_i.pdf
https://www.poweralia.com/images/pdf/rg14015_i.pdf

thanks

I was in a similar place. I built a 6 COB light with (2) 4000's and (4) 3000's -- and then I built another light that can fit inside the first one with a (2) 5000's. If I want to use the 5000's separately in a veg space I can, otherwise I run the 4's and 5's during veg, and the 4's and 3's during flower off of one fixture. If you plan your drivers and your wiring, you can make it modular.

Hard to get a good pic since its hanging over plants right now... This shows 6 of the 8, there are two more in the foreground that were cut off. The two far ones (and near ones you can't see) are 3000's, the 4000's are parallel to those, and the bright 5000's are in the center running length-wise, and can be disconnected and removed to run independently. Sorry, bad pic and bad explanation, hope it makes sense.

Edit: I fired up all 8 in attempting to take the pic, it does not show how I actually run the light with either four or six at a time.



Not sure if attaching more low quality pictures helps... but just in case, here's the light with the four veg lights on, without the 5000's, with the 5000's running separately in a veg space (not in that order...)

My design was... uh... "ambitious" for a first attempt. My light can be adjusted for spacing. Not sure I'd recommend this... lol... and my craftsmanship leaves a lot to be desired. But hey, (so far) it works!

Humanrob said:

I was in a similar place. I built a 6 COB light with (2) 4000's and (4) 3000's -- and then I built another light that can fit inside the first one with a (2) 5000's. If I want to use the 5000's separately in a veg space I can, otherwise I run the 4's and 5's during veg, and the 4's and 3's during flower off of one fixture. If you plan your drivers and your wiring, you can make it modular.

Hard to get a good pic since its hanging over plants right now... This shows 6 of the 8, there are two more in the foreground that were cut off. The two far ones (and near ones you can't see) are 3000's, the 4000's are parallel to those, and the bright 5000's are in the center running length-wise, and can be disconnected and removed to run independently. Sorry, bad pic and bad explanation, hope it makes sense.

Edit: I fired up all 8 in attempting to take the pic, it does not show how I actually run the light with either four or six at a time.

View attachment 3536226

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that is what I want, but whit pasive cooling

What about staying with the 4000K and add some Vero Decor 18s in the 3000k 97 cri. If you look at the spectrum, it peaks at 660nm giving red up to about 800nm.