Dark leaves on Cheese... please help!

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oash999

Member
I've got 2 arjan haze#1, great white shark and cheese
grown for 2 months in hydro but only NPK of 4-3-6 on 250W CFL , temp and humidity recently down due to electric problem

cheese has been having some dark leaves
any ideas?
and do you think its ready for flowering?
 

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Southerner

Southerner

Well-Known Member
The first pic looks like maybe some sort of Cal/Mag deficiency or lockout, depending on what you are keeping the pH at. I see way more leaves that are too yellow than any that are too dark. Anyway, if you are going to flower with CFL as well then I would go ahead and switch over to 12/12, as CFL doesn't have the best light penetration.
 
Alpha & Omega

Alpha & Omega

Well-Known Member
yo, yeah I agree with Southerner, Cal Mag Deficiency, common when using some LED's or CFLS, second one looks a touch of over watering (claw like leaves), other one a bit of over feeding or maybe its hungry if its had only a little bit
 
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oash999

Member
well look i've been planing on using this nutrients for the vegitative

(Grow) :N-P-K-Mg: 24+6+12+(1.2)
  • 24% N Total Nitrogen
  • 13% NS Nitrogen Nitrate
  • 11% NA Nitrogen Ammoniacal
  • 6% PO Nitrogen Phosphorus
  • 12% KO Soluble Potassium
  • 1.2% Mg Soluble Magnesium (=1.2% Mg)
  • 0.02% B Soluble Boron
  • 0.04% Cu Soluble Copper (as Chelate form EDTA)
  • 0.1% Fe Soluble Iron (as Chelate form EDTA)
  • 0.05% Mn Soluble Manganese (as Chelate from EDTA)
  • 0.01% Mo Soluble Molybdenum
  • 0.01% Zn Soluble Zinc (as Chelate from EDTA)

but due to the torture of the customs regulation here, they got held up at the customs up till today
the plan is to feed them with is type of fertilizer, which is missing of calcuim btw.

then when they are ready to go to flowering I;m gonna use every types own fertilizer
for Haze: N-P-K-Mg: 18+12+18+(1.2) (long flowering)

  • 18% N Total Nitrogen
  • 10% NS Nitrogen Nitrate
  • 8% NA Nitrogen Ammoniacal
  • 12% PO Nitrogen Phosphorus
  • 18% KO Soluble Potassium
  • 1.2% Mg Soluble Magnesium (=1.2% Mg)
  • 0.02% B Soluble Boron
  • 0.04% Cu Soluble Copper (as Chelate form EDTA)
  • 0.1% Fe Soluble Iron (as Chelate form EDTA)
  • 0.05% Mn Soluble Manganese (as Chelate from EDTA)
  • 0.01% Mo Soluble Molybdenum
  • 0.01% Zn Soluble Zinc (as Chelate from EDTA)

for the Cheese: N-P-K-Mg: 15+7+22+(3.6) (hybrids)


  • 15% NTotal Nitrogen
  • 10% NSNitrogen Nitrate
  • 5% NANitrogen Ammoniacal
  • 7% PONitrogen Phosphorus
  • 22% KOSoluble Potassium
  • 3.6% MgSoluble Magnesium(=3.6% Mg)
  • 0.03% BSoluble Boron
  • 0.002% CuSoluble Copper (as Chelate form EDTA)
  • 0.12% FeSoluble Iron (as Chelate form EDTA)
  • 0.05% MnSoluble Manganese (as Chelate from EDTA)
  • 0.005% MoSoluble Molybdenum
  • 0.01% ZnSoluble Zinc (as Chelate from EDTA)

and for white shark: N-P-K-Mg: 16+6+26+(2) (short flowering)

  • 16% N Total Nitrogen
  • 11% NS Nitrogen Nitrate
  • 5% NA Nitrogen Ammoniacal
  • 6% PO Nitrogen Phosphorus
  • 26% KO Soluble Potassium
  • 2% Mg Soluble Magnesium (=2% Mg)
  • 0.02% B Souluble Boron
  • 0.04% Cu Souluble Copper (as Chelate form EDTA)
  • 0.1% Fe Soluble Iron (as Chelate form EDTA)
  • 0.05% Mn Soluble Manganese (as Chelate from EDTA)
  • 0.01% Mo Soluble Molybdenum
  • 0.01% Zn Soluble Zinc (as Chelate from EDTA)

it says the fertilizer is designed for the whole crop from seedling to harvest

and I already have a 600W hps ready for the flowering.
I'm thinking since i waited all this long for the fertilizer, its time to actually start the real vegging
so i'm thinking of raising the cfls to 400 and feed them for a month on the first fertilizer i mentioned (grow)
then get that 600w running with each plants own fertilizer
















 
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oash999

Member
oh and ph is about 5.5 - 6.0, never above 6 i guess
i change the tank and fed them today with an EC of 2.1
 
DCobeen

DCobeen

Well-Known Member
i would add peroxide to the water at 3ml per gallon to help the roots get more oxygen and kill any bad fungus that has started to grow. also add air stones in the water of each plant and the res. i would also add some cal/mag asap. when i grow in or outside i like to use a bloom 10-52-10 for feeding then I use cocowater and molasses also. if i get some yellow ill add more n to the ones that need it. but its rare i ever add more N. unless my ph gets way off then it looks like N def.
love and peace
 
Nizza

Nizza

Well-Known Member
first lets hear about the water temperatures, and the room temperatures, max/min!
 
ilyaas123

ilyaas123

Well-Known Member
For those plants just 250w isn't enough unless you are on about 250w each.... And you should be using mylar; possibly diamond mylar and if not that flat white paint or reflective white paint not foil! You have a pretty cheap setup and I thought mine was and sorry to be so picky but you are going to need it
 
sativa indica pits

sativa indica pits

Active Member
how are you testing the ph? if its a digi meter, it may need to be calibrated every couple weeks. the vial and drop kits at pet co are very accurate, and only cost 7-8 buks. not into hydro myself but it looks similar to ph swings in soil. good luck!!
 
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oash999

Member
well thats a bit hellpfull i'm gonna get into some of that adding
water temp is around 18-20, ph meter is digital and i have the buffering for it to be calibrated.
room temp is around 25-20
and humidty is at lowest at the moment due to techinical bullshit around 45%

any ideas how to raise the humidty?
 
Nizza

Nizza

Well-Known Member
how's the water quality?? Something else that's good to check, before going too far with a solution

if that's DWC, (bubbler) I'd cover the res somehow to avoid pathogens growing
 
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