Michealkush818
Member
STRAIN: GG4
TEMP: 80 degrees
LIGHT INTENSITY 100% on GAVITA 1700 LED
HUMIDITY: 60%
SOIL: ROOTS ORGANIC
PH 6.1
DAY 18 OF FLOWER. WHAT COULD BE THE PROBLEM ?
- Thread starter Michealkush818
- Start date
STRAIN: GG4
TEMP: 80 degrees
LIGHT INTENSITY 100% on GAVITA 1700 LED
HUMIDITY: 60%
SOIL: ROOTS ORGANIC
PH 6.1
Does your CalMag have iron in it as well? What kind of CalMag are you using?
Michealkush818
Member
I’m currently using Botanicare cal mag. Yes I am using mostly a Botanicare lineup with power si, running around 1200 ppms by week 3.
Michealkush818
Member
I was suspecting the same thing, a nitrogen deficiency but thanks for the clarification as to what may have caused it. Could I do anything moving forward to fix it?
Tracker
Well-Known Member
Does the Botanicare lineup have all the micronutes? I don't use that line for base so I don't know. I use their CalMag+ and my plants seem to like it.
If you want to add more N, you can do 3/4 strength bloom with 1/4 strength veg nutes. Also, the CalMag adds N from Calcium Nitrate.
If you use CalMag+ it has Fe too, which helps green it up. And you can supplement S to add green and enhance flavor/aroma.
If you want to add more N, you can do 3/4 strength bloom with 1/4 strength veg nutes. Also, the CalMag adds N from Calcium Nitrate.
If you use CalMag+ it has Fe too, which helps green it up. And you can supplement S to add green and enhance flavor/aroma.
Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
Nitrogen defs start at the bottom, you seem to have top canopy affected. Also not really seeing the yellow, more like bleached green I think you are simply over lighting your canopy, getting that common led/mag deficiency which is hard to fix. Some i have seen have raised pH slightly for better availability, some give the plant a rest with lowering light intensity, I've seen some fix it by adding some uv/N-uva which makes transpiration work better.
YOu can add calmag also but some tips are looking a bit burnt so be careful.
YOu can add calmag also but some tips are looking a bit burnt so be careful.
Husk
Well-Known Member
Right on the money sir! I see a combination as well. One tends to accompany the other. Lower light intensity by either producing less reflection/direction, less par/watt, increase light height or decrease plant canopy height if at all possible haha. Increase C02 consumption as to allow for more photosynthesis eh =) Or simply put a filter to screen some light, change light hours, worst case a new light. You have a set amount of conditions to tamper with, get to experimenting my friend!
An easy way to identify light burn is check the shaded spots on the plant that don't receive light. If they're brimming green, your problem has been identified. Chlorophyll gets burnt out of the plant and mag. which are essential in green leafy growth. The reason why mag. is considered a secondary nutrient! Always needed!
Nitrogen is very easy to spot. The plant will deprive lower leaves of nitrogen to further enhance top growth, because that's where light is, and life haha! General yellowing of leafs that fall off when touched is common symptoms. They just drop off like leaves on an Autumn day! ( Which is essentially the same process, taking nutes for winter storage etc...)
Mag. Deficiencies show up as interveinal chlorosis ( yellow between veins). It's a semi-mobile nutrient, meaning the plant can pick and choose to an extent which leaves to take from, with transpiration, which controls the movement within cells/plant.
From what I can remember transpiration is also used to regulate calcium & Mag, but more so calcium. Transpiration moves calcium into leafs and sits there forever lol. This is why deficiencies show in new growth first.
Some simple fixes for nutrient deficiencies can be as easy as drifting the ph lower or higher, allows access to potentially locked up, or unreachable nutrient caches. Foilar sprays are very common, just make sure the PH is correct! I like to spoon feed with NPK raw lineup. They have the basics, and everything in between. Allowing you to give the plant exactly what it needs immediately as they are bio-available, and most products only contain a single nutrient.
I love to use organics to finish and use as a supplement when needed such as top dressing (organic amendments will continue to burn, the NPK value you see is what is required by law to show immediate available nutes...), teas, and organic products with low nutrient value but high degrees of effect on the plant such as sea kelp, which I top dress a month to weeks before harvest, or finger pinch in water jug! Most organics don't burn as intensely as synthetic allowing you to use nutrients up to the last week or some even the last couple days, or harvest time!
Keep in mind a healthy, thriving rhizosphere is needed to break down organics. Don't get me started on this subject haha! A simple but effective and OMRI listed product I use to break down excess salts accumulated in pots is Fish Shit! ( This is a new experiment for me, done under scrutinised/controlled circumstances. I've been building up to this moment since veg. I believe in a whole approach to growing, as in cycles, complete detailed analysis of hindsight!)
I don't have run off/waste (saucers underneath catch it all) and run a 85% to 95% organic grow and supplement with synthetic in the most natural but plant available form when needed. Although very seldom! I add more Benes after I do that as to recoup the lost ones and kickstart new growth below. Beneficial microbes are stronger than given credit for and can actually take some beatings as long as you care for them after. Everything heals, and it's your job to provide the conditions for them to do so!
So far Nute burn is minimal, and I'm hoping for a very clean flush using Benes to eat everything up in the pot, and a diligent eye on growth, and overall plant health throughout this fasting cycle/ripening. Less is always more with me, I'd rather starve a plant, than overfeed. Under feed is a simple pinch, overfeed is opening the Niles... I'm only worried about the plants cutting sugars off to the Benes at this late stage haha! Cane molasses fixes this fairly easy =)
Microbes have saved me more than once on countless problems regarding deficiencies, under-over watering, shock/stress, mold, and root rot!! I've had 3gal pots light as a feather(6' plants), and the plant looks lush as ever, still perky. Look after them, and they'll take care of you.
Plants definetly get use to habitual waterings, among other things you do commonly. Adaptation is very real in plants. I remember a video on these plants in the mountains, harvested by us humans so much that they actually changed colours to blend in with rocks to survive the wrath of humankind lol!
Another video of someone who wanted to see if plants have feelings and hooked it up to a polygraph. He went and did an array of activities to get a reaction, nothing. He then sat across the room, and contemplated taking a knife and cutting the plant down. Oh did that needle move then!!! Just the thought alone, it felt something haha!
Sorry, I love to rant, and help others, best of luck mate!
TLDR. Supplement with magnesium sulfate, not cal mag, as it only adds more cal which is not needed here. Add fulvic acid to increase uptake and add microbes to break down soil
An easy way to identify light burn is check the shaded spots on the plant that don't receive light. If they're brimming green, your problem has been identified. Chlorophyll gets burnt out of the plant and mag. which are essential in green leafy growth. The reason why mag. is considered a secondary nutrient! Always needed!
Nitrogen is very easy to spot. The plant will deprive lower leaves of nitrogen to further enhance top growth, because that's where light is, and life haha! General yellowing of leafs that fall off when touched is common symptoms. They just drop off like leaves on an Autumn day! ( Which is essentially the same process, taking nutes for winter storage etc...)
Mag. Deficiencies show up as interveinal chlorosis ( yellow between veins). It's a semi-mobile nutrient, meaning the plant can pick and choose to an extent which leaves to take from, with transpiration, which controls the movement within cells/plant.
From what I can remember transpiration is also used to regulate calcium & Mag, but more so calcium. Transpiration moves calcium into leafs and sits there forever lol. This is why deficiencies show in new growth first.
Some simple fixes for nutrient deficiencies can be as easy as drifting the ph lower or higher, allows access to potentially locked up, or unreachable nutrient caches. Foilar sprays are very common, just make sure the PH is correct! I like to spoon feed with NPK raw lineup. They have the basics, and everything in between. Allowing you to give the plant exactly what it needs immediately as they are bio-available, and most products only contain a single nutrient.
I love to use organics to finish and use as a supplement when needed such as top dressing (organic amendments will continue to burn, the NPK value you see is what is required by law to show immediate available nutes...), teas, and organic products with low nutrient value but high degrees of effect on the plant such as sea kelp, which I top dress a month to weeks before harvest, or finger pinch in water jug! Most organics don't burn as intensely as synthetic allowing you to use nutrients up to the last week or some even the last couple days, or harvest time!
Keep in mind a healthy, thriving rhizosphere is needed to break down organics. Don't get me started on this subject haha! A simple but effective and OMRI listed product I use to break down excess salts accumulated in pots is Fish Shit! ( This is a new experiment for me, done under scrutinised/controlled circumstances. I've been building up to this moment since veg. I believe in a whole approach to growing, as in cycles, complete detailed analysis of hindsight!)
I don't have run off/waste (saucers underneath catch it all) and run a 85% to 95% organic grow and supplement with synthetic in the most natural but plant available form when needed. Although very seldom! I add more Benes after I do that as to recoup the lost ones and kickstart new growth below. Beneficial microbes are stronger than given credit for and can actually take some beatings as long as you care for them after. Everything heals, and it's your job to provide the conditions for them to do so!
So far Nute burn is minimal, and I'm hoping for a very clean flush using Benes to eat everything up in the pot, and a diligent eye on growth, and overall plant health throughout this fasting cycle/ripening. Less is always more with me, I'd rather starve a plant, than overfeed. Under feed is a simple pinch, overfeed is opening the Niles... I'm only worried about the plants cutting sugars off to the Benes at this late stage haha! Cane molasses fixes this fairly easy =)
Microbes have saved me more than once on countless problems regarding deficiencies, under-over watering, shock/stress, mold, and root rot!! I've had 3gal pots light as a feather(6' plants), and the plant looks lush as ever, still perky. Look after them, and they'll take care of you.
Plants definetly get use to habitual waterings, among other things you do commonly. Adaptation is very real in plants. I remember a video on these plants in the mountains, harvested by us humans so much that they actually changed colours to blend in with rocks to survive the wrath of humankind lol!
Another video of someone who wanted to see if plants have feelings and hooked it up to a polygraph. He went and did an array of activities to get a reaction, nothing. He then sat across the room, and contemplated taking a knife and cutting the plant down. Oh did that needle move then!!! Just the thought alone, it felt something haha!
Sorry, I love to rant, and help others, best of luck mate!
TLDR. Supplement with magnesium sulfate, not cal mag, as it only adds more cal which is not needed here. Add fulvic acid to increase uptake and add microbes to break down soil
Last edited:
Michealkush818
Member
Really appreciate the feedback y’all! Can’t stress enough how great this community is. Will start off by lowering the light intensity and later will be adding necessary supplements to treat any deficiencies if problem is not fixed.
Humboldtcalikidd
Well-Known Member
I would say that 1200 ppm is a little high for the third week of flower!