Day time temp bounce

ttystikk said:

Bullshit. Placing the exhaust over heat source gets the heat out. Placing it at the bottom of the tent is useless.

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Cool tubes were useless as you see most of the heat is radiation hitting surfaces and my exhaust creates air pressure to remove it not placement of exhaust - its really quite simple im not sure what im missing. Maybe you run too low cfm and need to rely on heat rising to a point but my cfm sucks all no matter where you place its opening and heat dosent rise it swirls pretty evenly everywhere before being evacuated

Kingrow1 said:

Cool tubes were useless as you see most of the heat is radiation hitting surfaces and my exhaust creates air pressure to remove it not placement of exhaust - its really quite simple im not sure what im missing. Maybe you run too low cfm and need to rely on heat rising to a point but my cfm sucks all no matter where you place its opening and heat dosent rise it swirls pretty evenly everywhere before being evacuated

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You and I are not on the same page. Nevermind.

ttystikk said:

You and I are not on the same page. Nevermind.

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Well thats certainly not a page that deals with thermodynamics - technically your posts read that placing your exhaust at the base dosent work and im saying that if it sucks air at neg pressure tent levels its very much working to remove air and heat.

So what am i missing?

Kingrow1 said:

Well thats certainly not a page that deals with thermodynamics - technically your posts read that placing your exhaust at the base dosent work and im saying that if it sucks air at neg pressure tent levels its very much working to remove air and heat.

So what am i missing?

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The fact that heat rises.

ttystikk said:

The fact that heat rises.

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It does indeed but with enough cfm its pulled wherever peeps please and it rising dosent happen much so much as follow displacement.

I get what your saying but most exhausts suck all the volume of air and create such a strong current that it defeats heat rising. So much i state that even needing tent fans is pointless in a lot of situations as the exhaust swirls the air enough to satisy transpiration and heat

The room temps are around 63 to 68.

Kingrow1 said:

It does indeed but with enough cfm its pulled wherever peeps please and it rising dosent happen much so much as follow displacement.

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...Like how a fan-forced oven is evenly heated and doesn't burn the stuff on the top shelf, while leaving the bottom shelf stuff undercooked?

Dosido41616 said:

The room temps are around 63 to 68.

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That should be plenty cool enough to keep the tent temperatures under control. Make sure the thermometer in the tent isn't in direct light or it won't read correctly.

Dosido41616 said:

The room temps are around 63 to 68.

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This would suggest your thermometer is still picking up some light radiation as lights on should be a bit cooler if room temps are as you say.

Something else i say and that is that measuring an accurate air temp in a small box with big lights is hard - many of us dont really use thermometers in tents we just know our room is at the right temps so the tent never heats up enough.

You have quite cool room temps that your tent intaking this should never overheat.

Food for thought longer term and i hope all the info on heat and thermometers has made sense

Ozmap said:

...Like how a fan-forced oven is evenly heated and doesn't burn the stuff on the top shelf, while leaving the bottom shelf stuff undercooked?

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Yes great example of the simple physics at play in our tents

ttystikk said:

Bullshit. Placing the exhaust over heat source gets the heat out. Placing it at the bottom of the tent is useless.

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Lol this is to funny to watch. First of all NO. Air is not a liquid it is a gas that can be compressed into a liquid. Gas law? Wtf..lol when I got certified as a universal AC tech they also referred to it as a" non-condensable" meaning that it was hindrance to the flow of the system. Of coarse we all know that in most cases the refrigerant is far more compressible than air.
Heat rises we all know this. But if your air flow is correct it should be the same temp everywhere in your room. That's what we strive for as techs.
You should concentrate on cooling the hottest thing in the room. Of coarse the light. I push air onto those. I run led. No hoods here. But my fins stay cool in the fan flow, and hot without it. I push heat around the room from the LED's.....but they stay cooler ,In turn dropping my room temps just even slightly. And every degree counts.
Fans are only as good as the air they push....
Remember a hot day....I mean a hot day driving in the car. Windows down,hand outside in the wind.....getting baked..lol Now it's a winter day and it freezes. Same wind makes a huge difference when temps change...not including the humidity.
So plants get the air flow from the cooling of the lights. Not the other way around.
Also think or your tent as a glass of water. Is it easier use a straw to fill the glass with bubbles to get rid of the water or suck it out with the straw. In a perfect sealed environment with one in and one out.... there's no difference. But a vacuum is preferable when we grow to keep the smell in and not out.....cuz our rooms are never perfect.

My temps and rh were bouncing too. Can hardly get rh it above 40-50, winter like.6-20. Temps swing but within a ten degree difference....which is fine.
So I kept thinking everything was wrong with the rh from what I've heard and read. Especially for young seedling and vegging plants. Was in for hell. Got nutes dialed in...and bam. Everything I blamed on rh was me switching out nutes. I made sure my temp cycle was ok and I chucked the RH meter and Thermometer. An AC guy without that in his room? I know but after your room is dialed in, you don't need one more input to blame your problems on. I can tell what temp my room is when I open it.its cooler than the outside air. Rh? I never looked back and I hydro clone in 10% humidity all day long.
Hope something in this crap reply helps...lol

Gas law is the behaviour of gasses in physics or chemistry idk which made them.

Theres a simple process whereby you simply keep the room the tent is in to within a min and max temperature and rh and then ditch the tent thermometer and rh meter for good which you said and i also use a lot.

Trying to find the correct temp and humidity in a small highly reflective box with big light is very hard and id suggest when you do find it its not far off the outside room temps and rh.

We dont much create microclimates in our tents so much as constantly and quickly draw and exhaust the rooms air so therefore it wont be far off what the room is. Radiation (as well as conduction and convection) needs understandjng - it dosent heat air directly but passes straight through it unhindered, this is what strikes the leaf and also your thermometer if you place it in the light or in directly in the light but a leaf uses transpiration to pass heat energy into the lower temperature air which we simply exhaust at a high rate.

So My tent is riding around 78-80 degrees. I can’t cool my room down any more than it is already. The sensor is a foot down from the top corner of the tent inside. No light radiation or anything. Will having too many air ports actually make it worse? The tent isn’t sucking in anymore. I opened three 4” vent holes on the bottom.