Design for a Flood/Fog System

UncleReemis

UncleReemis

Well-Known Member
I mapped out a design today for a fog/flood system with a level control bucket and a fog chamber. The drawing pretty much explains it all. The two pumps would be run with separate timers unless I can find a mechanism that lets the return pump know when to shut off. I was wanting to use a float switch, but that only actuates the pump to turn on, not to turn off, therefore it would run dry and burn up. I'm sure there's something out there, I'm just not too familiar with these mechanisms. I want to be able to use the flood manifold for the fog so the fog will be blown into the leveler bucket then again blown to be fed into the manifold. Needless to say the fogging will be done at different times than flooding. It's a very rough design, so I'm definitely looking for input.
 
SnapsProvolone

SnapsProvolone

Well-Known Member
I'm a little lost but is this intended to operate like a timed ebb n grow controller with the 'full' and 'empty' float switches?
 
Metasynth

Metasynth

Well-Known Member
And if you want an electronic float switch, I use something like this in my saltwater aquariums for auto top off...It controls an electronic device by turning it off and on when desired levels are reached.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ATO-self-leveling-controller-/221395613861?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item338c34f8a5

In other words, when the water level in my aquarium drops, this kicks on a pump that pumps fresh water from a reservoir into my tank, until it trips the switch and shuts off the pump...No failures since I bought it in 2011
 
UncleReemis

UncleReemis

Well-Known Member
SnapsProvolone

SnapsProvolone

Well-Known Member
The high switch is a nc contact and when it rises it opens stopping feed pump.
The low switch is a no contact and when it lowers it opens and the return pump is cut off.

Timer with dpdt contact relay would energize relay coil to switch power to the feed pump circuit for 15 minutes on (ebb) & the timer off cycle drops relay coil and thus energizes the return pump circuit (flow).

So the timer sets mode and float switches are limits.

Avoid cheap float switches as they die and could cause a fried pump or an overflow.
 
Metasynth

Metasynth

Well-Known Member
You CAN flip the switch upside down, just unscrew the little plastic nut on the bottom, slide the float off, and flip it upside down, since these switches rely on a magnetic mechanism to run. You know redundancy ain't for dummies... ;)

Though, almost anything Snaps says will trump my advice, Where as I'm an amateur, this guy's a pro. No joke, he really knows his stuff. I've had good uck with mine in saltwater, but I don't know what a nute mix might do to it either...though the part in contact with water totally encased in plastic with no exposed metal. But I have heard of cheap float switches failing, it;s usually the relay that breaks, right?
 
UncleReemis

UncleReemis

Well-Known Member
SnapsProvolone said:
The high switch is a nc contact and when it rises it opens stopping feed pump.
The low switch is a no contact and when it lowers it opens and the return pump is cut off.

Timer with dpdt contact relay would energize relay coil to switch power to the feed pump circuit for 15 minutes on (ebb) & the timer off cycle drops relay coil and thus energizes the return pump circuit (flow).

So the timer sets mode and float switches are limits.

Avoid cheap float switches as they die and could cause a fried pump or an overflow.
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I was wondering what those different types of switches would be called, so thank you for clearing that up and also props for thoroughness. Any thoughts about the rest of the system? See any possible short comings or errors? I'm a little ehhh about using two fogging chambers, but as long as I have a thick enough fog generating, it should be alright. The reason for the way the feed and return lines are ran is so that when the fog builds up in the chamber and the fans turn on, the fog has nowhere else to escape but into the flood manifold. Sure, it's a little unorthodox but it should work. Also not sure how I want to approach oxygenating the water because I'm not sure if the disturbance in the res caused by the splash of the return will generate enough DO since it wont be on constantly.
 
SnapsProvolone

SnapsProvolone

Well-Known Member
Dunno why you need fog.

Floom your reservoir with a powerhead perhaps? Would probably need to have it cut off during flood (relay inversing logic of lower float switch / denying power when not in drain cycle & when in drain cycle but not fully drained).

The DO isn't a big issue imo since roots hang in air most of the time.
 
UncleReemis

UncleReemis

Well-Known Member
SnapsProvolone said:
Dunno why you need fog.

Floom your reservoir with a powerhead perhaps? Would probably need to have it cut off during flood (relay inversing logic of lower float switch / denying power when not in drain cycle & when in drain cycle but not fully drained).

The DO isn't a big issue imo since roots hang in air most of the time.
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Yes of course, silly me. And the point of fogging is to get droplets <5 microns size. If my memory serves me well, that is. Same reason you'd use high pressure pumps and mister heads in true aero. I want the soaking with the misting for the theory, and perhaps just to see it work in tandem and to say I did it.
 
SnapsProvolone

SnapsProvolone

Well-Known Member
UncleReemis said:
Yes of course, silly me. And the point of fogging is to get droplets <5 microns size. If my memory serves me well, that is. Same reason you'd use high pressure pumps and mister heads in true aero. I want the soaking with the misting for the theory, and perhaps just to see it work in tandem and to say I did it.
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The idea of adding moisture during the drained cycle sort of defeats the purpose (air exposure) so I would wager it may lead to pythium if your not careful.
 
UncleReemis

UncleReemis

Well-Known Member
SnapsProvolone said:
The idea of adding moisture during the drained cycle sort of defeats the purpose (air exposure) so I would wager it may lead to pythium if your not careful.
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I'm not too worried about pythium as I understand the importance of light proofing, cool temps, and bennies. And it's hard to say exactly how intense the moisture would be from the fogging, but I don't imagine it would be that bothersome. The fans on the chamber and leveler are also pushing fresh air into the root chambers of each plant so in theory, this aids in controlling the extra moisture from the fog. The fans can even stay on after the fog condenses or dissipates for a little while.
 
SnapsProvolone

SnapsProvolone

Well-Known Member
UncleReemis said:
I'm not too worried about pythium as I understand the importance of light proofing, cool temps, and bennies. And it's hard to say exactly how intense the moisture would be from the fogging, but I don't imagine it would be that bothersome. The fans on the chamber and leveler are also pushing fresh air into the root chambers of each plant so in theory, this aids in controlling the extra moisture from the fog.
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I am interested in seeing what you come up with and I sincerely hope we can see it crank out some awesome plants for you. Keep us posted please. :D
 
UncleReemis

UncleReemis

Well-Known Member
SnapsProvolone said:
I am interested in seeing what you come up with and I sincerely hope we can see it crank out some awesome plants for you. Keep us posted please. :D
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Thank you. I owe you and Meta both a huge thank you. I'm not sure when I'll get around to this, but I will continue to mess with the design and I'll surely make it live in the future. I've been wanting to construct a system like this for a while now so it's only a matter of time before it happens. :joint:
 
J

jaybray

Member
It can be done I know a guy that spent big bucks developing the system only to have sunlight try it and tell him they were having trouble with nutrients clogging the foggers. FYI
 
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