Thats only because the pictures are blurry.lol I did take Al's advice on some of the details. The S-strip on the 1" bend gives it good rigidity along the outside edge. In the center I used that same bender I showed (Around $9.00 @ Menards) to bend that edge 3/8" and used a rubber mallet to flatten it down. This gave me (2) layers of the Aluminum right in the center, by the time you add the double 1-1/8" straps and fasten that together the only thing left is the sides. The s-strips are 14" and the sheet is 24" wide so the bend on the end of them gave me a nice 90 for attaching the Aluminum angle (I keep wanting to say iron) Al B Fuct Posted the design and measured his for me (its one he bought and has used for a long time). His reasoning was the cooltube comes with the cord and socket, by buying the Batwing Reflector you would be spending that money for the socket twice, easier to make the reflector than it is to make the cool tube. I agree with him 1000 percent. JUst the aluminum collars on this cool tube would be hard to duplicate for the $100.00 it cost, has a reflective top, goes about 1/2 way around the tube. I figure I got the glass for free, came with hanging hardware for vertical mounting as well as the horizontal that iI used. It's almost like someone thought this thru. Its a 6" cool tube, the reflector makes it take up exactly 6" of space in the middle of the reflector, and it makes the angle of your panels give the right curve or real close to it. Al said his was 2". I used eyehooks at the corner junctions. He mentioned some type of an adjustment arrangment using small steel cables. If I do try something like that I can use the eyehooks for it and in the meantime I will use the to 'balance' the light fixture. VV
