DIY Carbon Filter

speedhabit said:

I know that this isnt as simple, but it will work better.

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Arrid said:

This was added to this :

https://www.rollitup.org/indoor-growing/90893-ultimate-odour-control-thread.html

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speedhabit said:

The difference between an inline "stuff" filter and a commercial style carbon filter is
the way air moves through the carbon. In an inline filter like you have, the air is forced through by an inline fan as pressure builds up in the tube behind the carbon, this is a large volume of air moving through a restrictive space and will follow the path of least resistance, this will lead to the creation of air channels in the carbon. The thinnest areas of carbon will be exposed to the most air at greater speeds while a large amount of carbon sits mostly unused in more restrictive areas of the carbon layer.

This also means the filter only works vertically as well. This is a big deal for me as I move filters around and expect them to perform in different configurations.

The commercial style filter found here is meant to be at the end of an exhaust system. It filters air by forcing it into a chamber where the additional pressure from the fan at the back causes the air to passively diffuse though the carbon. Again this is a larger amount of carbon, the air moves through more slowly thus filtering better, lasting longer. Speaking generally your filter moves a lot of air through a little surface of carbon, while this one moves a little air through a huge surface of carbon.

And its way more scalable.

Im not saying your filter dosnt work, but from someone with 4 big plants to someone with 50, this filter has you covered for barely 5 times the price of the carbon coffee can, and it looks trick.

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speedhabit said:

The difference between an inline "stuff" filter and a commercial style carbon filter is
the way air moves through the carbon. In an inline filter like you have, the air is forced through by an inline fan as pressure builds up in the tube behind the carbon, this is a large volume of air moving through a restrictive space and will follow the path of least resistance, this will lead to the creation of air channels in the carbon. The thinnest areas of carbon will be exposed to the most air at greater speeds while a large amount of carbon sits mostly unused in more restrictive areas of the carbon layer.

This also means the filter only works vertically as well. This is a big deal for me as I move filters around and expect them to perform in different configurations.

The commercial style filter found here is meant to be at the end of an exhaust system. It filters air by forcing it into a chamber where the additional pressure from the fan at the back causes the air to passively diffuse though the carbon. Again this is a larger amount of carbon, the air moves through more slowly thus filtering better, lasting longer. Speaking generally your filter moves a lot of air through a little surface of carbon, while this one moves a little air through a huge surface of carbon.

And its way more scalable.

Im not saying your filter dosnt work, but from someone with 4 big plants to someone with 50, this filter has you covered for barely 5 times the price of the carbon coffee can, and it looks trick.

Click to expand...

speedhabit said:

Cannabis and Marijuana seeds :: HomeGrown420 - Best Homade Scrubber By (Sun is Shining) Pt. 1

I know that this isnt as simple, but it will work better.

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regionaldragon said:

Has anybody tried a muffin fan with this setup?

Thanks in Advance...

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Chris602 said:

I Found This On the Inter Net Somewhere And thought ill Share It Here WIth yall



[SIZE=+2]TO HELP YOU FIGURE WHAT SIZE FILTER AND FAN YOU NEED, HERE IS A SIMPLE WAY TO FIGURE IT OUT.[/SIZE][SIZE=+2]

[SIZE=+2]WIDTH X LENGTH X HEIGHT = CUBIC FEET[/SIZE]

[SIZE=+2][SIZE=+0][SIZE=+0](TO BE EFFECTIVE-THE AIR IN THE ROOM SHOULD BE EXCHANGED AT LEAST ONCE EVERY 5 MINUTE) [/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][SIZE=+2][SIZE=+0]
[/SIZE]
CUBIC FEET / 5 MINUTES = CFM NEEDED

EXAMPLE:
8 X 8 X 8 = 512 CU FT


512 / 5 = 102 CFM NEEDED

[/SIZE][/SIZE][SIZE=+2]ACTIVATED CARBON [SIZE=+2]Research Studies and Facts [/SIZE][/SIZE][SIZE=+2][SIZE=+2]

Activated carbon is non-toxic. Basically, bituminous coal is totally carbonized by being subjected to high temperature and then is exposed to high-pressure steam, which causes the carbon to fracture, with almost infinite microscopic fissures that retain passing molecules. There are so many of these pores that one pound has a surface area of 60 to 150 acres. This carbon is unwashed so that you can be assured it is virgin carbon and not recycled (regenerated) activated carbon.
Some carbons are activated or washed with phosphoric acid, zinc chloride, or potassium hydroxide. These chemically treated activated carbons could leach phosphate (an algae promoter), heavy metals, or alter pH.
This activated carbon is NOT acid-washed.

SOME CARBONS ARE POWDERIZED, HAVE ADDITIONAL TREATMENT AGENTS ADDED, AND ARE THEN EXTRUDED IN PELLETIZED FORM. THIS CARBON IS IN GRANULAR (i.e. crushed char which is then sieved by particle size) FORM AND HAS ABSOLUTELY NOTHING ADDED TO IT. THIS CARBON IS USED FOR VAPOR AND LIQUID PHASE. ACTIVATED CARBON AIR FILTERS
[SIZE=+2]Activated carbon air filters are the most effective type of filter against chemicals, gases, cigarette smoke and other odors. [SIZE=+2]

[SIZE=+2]Activated carbon air filters trap odors and chemicals in highly adsorbent granules (or pores), which look like a hard scrub brush.[/SIZE]

Activated Carbon is effective at removing the following types of chemicals:​

Acetaldehyde Cyclohexanol Hydrogen fluoride Paint & redecorating odors Acetic Acid Cyclohexanol Hydrogen iodide Palmitic Acid Acetic anhydride Cyclohexene Hydrogen selenide Paradichlorbenzine Acetone Decane Hydrogen sulfide Pantane
Dibromoethane Incensen Pentanone Acrolem Dichlorobenzene Indole Pentylene Acrylic Acid Dichlorodifluoromethane Iodine Pentyne Acrylonitrile Dichloroethane Iodoform Perchloroethylene Alcoholic Beverages Dichloroethylene Irritants Perfumes, cosmetics Amines Dichloroethyl Isophorone Phenol Ammonia Dichloromonofluormethane Isoprene Phosgene Ameyl acetate Dichloronitroethane Isopropyl acetate Pitch Amyl alcohol Dichloroprpane Isopropyl alcohol Poison gases Amyl ether Dichlorotetrafluoroethane Isopropyl ether Pollen Aniline Diesel fumes Kerosene Poultry odors Asphalt fumes Diethylamine Kitchen odors Propane Automobile Exhaust Diethyl ketone Lactic acid Propionaldehyde Benzene Dimethylaniline Dimethylsulfate Propionic acid Body odors Dimethylsulfate Menthol Propyl acetate Borane Dioxane Mercaptans Propyl alcohol Bromine Diproyl ketone Methil acetate Propyl chloride Burned Flesh Ether Menthyl acrylate Propyl ether Burned Food Ethyl acetate Methyl alcohol< /TD > Propyl mercaptan Butadiene Ethyl acrylate Methyl bromide Methyl bromide Butane Ethyl alcohol Methyl butyl ketone Propylene Butanone Ethyl amine Methyl cellosolve Propyne Butyl acetate Ethyl benzene Methyl cellosolve acetate Putrefying substances Butyl alcohol Ethyl bromide Methyl chloride Putrescine Butyl cellosolve Ethyl chloride Methyl chloroform Pyridine Butyl chloride Ethyl ether Methyl ether Resins Butyl ether Ethyl formate Methyl ethyl ketone Rubber Butylene Ethyl mercaptan Methyl formate Sauerkraut Butyne Ethyl silicate Methyl isobutyl ketone Sewer odors Butyraldehyde Ethylene chlorhydrin Methyl mercaptan Skalote Butyric acid Ethylene dichloride Methylcyclohexane Slaughtering odors Camphor Ethylene oxide Methylcyclohexanol Smog Caprylic acid Essential oils Methylcyclohexaone Sour milks Carbolic acid Eucalyptole Methylene chloride Stoddard solvent Carbon disulfide Fertilizer Monochlorobenzene Styrene monomer Carbon dioxide Film processing odors Monofluorotri cloromethane Sulfur dioxide Carbon tetrachloride Fish odors Naphtha Sulfur trioxide Cellosolve Floral scents Naphthziene Sulfuric acid Cellosolve acetate Fluorotrichloromethane Nitric acid Tetrachloroethane Cheese Formaldehyde Nitro benzenes Tetrachloroethylene Chlorine Formic acid Nitroethane Tobacco smoke odor Chlorobenzene Gangrene Nitrogen dioxide Toilet odors Chlorobutadiene Garlic Nitroglycerine Toluene Chloroform Gasoline Nitromethane Toluidine Chloronitropropane Heptane Nitropropane Trichlorethylene Chloropicrin Heptylene Nitrotoluene Trichloroethane Citrus and other fruits Hexane Nonane Turpentine Cleaning compounds Hexylene Octalene Urea Coal smoke Hexyne Octane Uric acid Creosote Organic Chemicals Onions Valeric acid Cresol Hydrogen bromide Varnish fumes Valericaldehyde Crotonaldehyde Hydrogen chloride Ozone Xylene Cychlohexane Hydrogen cyanide Packing house odors

[/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE]
[SIZE=+2]EDIT: I Found It Off This ebay seller http://cgi.ebay.com/6-X-14-ACTIVATED-CARBON-FILTER-ODOR-SCRUBBER-130-CFM_W0QQitemZ120319988422QQcmdZViewItemQQptZHydroponics_Seed_Starting?hash=item120319988422&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50[/SIZE][SIZE=+2]
[/SIZE]

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chusett said:

hey randy.. does this method.. where you put Panhead's bag in the can work well? and if so does it stay working for at least a decent time frame?

Also, my way of exhaust since i have a little closet and no ducts or so is to just station the coffee can on the floor, pointing upwards, hooked up to a fan also blowing upwards. But will this work if the can is on the ground? Meaning i'll flip it upside down, put the bag in it, then flip it and put it on the ground and there will be no oxygen , unlike your design hanging off the ceiling with a wide open hole for air.

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chusett said:

Is it OK if i just cut off the can bottom, and then use the bottom of the can for the aluminum screen, and then just keep the lid intact? That way when i turn it upside down and put the carbon bag inside, i can keep the lid on and then put it upright back on the floor standing and facing upwards.

u think it'll work the same?

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