DIY Cool Tube How-To
- Thread starter 7th1der
- Start date
SmokinJoe113
Active Member
Good stuff right there! Thanks for sharing! 
ManishWayz
Active Member
Great thread, it's helping me with the design of my next grow setup which will be a vertical grow.
7th1der
Well-Known Member
So... 6.5 years later I am thinking about converting over to the SolarStorm 440 by California Lightworks with some supplemental t5's maybe. I obviously have no clue about LED's and from the research I've done thru these threads some people say they are just as bad as the chinese made LED's. I am worried about temps thats why I need LED's in the first place. Closet Space with hinged door is 51" x 34' x 101". I would love to utilize that almost 8.5 ' of vertical space to increase my yield eventually. I currently have a 400W HPS I thought about using and maybe doing a vertical grow but I am very worried about temps. I plan to cool the room outside the closet with a potable A/C in the summer.
I thought about having a tent inside the closet with all the "equipment" inside the tent but I would lose square footage. Then I got he bright idea to make the length of the closet seem shorter by building a wall in front of the grow with some sort of hidden door to get to the tent but I would rather spend that drywall money on lights. I'll probably just put a lock on the door, but I would have to drill holes for intake and out take right? Is this light a good choice for this space? I wanted perpetual but I may just have to veg a mother and cut clones off it and flower them all. What are your thoughts? I would like to do aero or hydro setup to minimize pests as much as possible as long as its a simple removal and adding of water. HELP PLEASE! lol
I thought about having a tent inside the closet with all the "equipment" inside the tent but I would lose square footage. Then I got he bright idea to make the length of the closet seem shorter by building a wall in front of the grow with some sort of hidden door to get to the tent but I would rather spend that drywall money on lights. I'll probably just put a lock on the door, but I would have to drill holes for intake and out take right? Is this light a good choice for this space? I wanted perpetual but I may just have to veg a mother and cut clones off it and flower them all. What are your thoughts? I would like to do aero or hydro setup to minimize pests as much as possible as long as its a simple removal and adding of water. HELP PLEASE! lol
farmerfischer
Well-Known Member
I like.. Perfect for a 400 hps....Tools Needed:
Phillips head screwdriver
Adjustable wrench
Needle Nose pliers
Supplies:
(1) Pyrex Bake-A-Round
(1) Lamp Socket w/ original screws
(2) 4" to 3" Increaser Reducer [Home Depot]
(1) SIMPSON Strong-Tie 18" aluminum strap {Model# LSTA18} [Home Depot]
(1) 4 Pack #10-24 Machine Screw Nut [Home Depot]
(1) #8-32 Wing Nut [Home Depot]
and
(1) 1/2" long screw to fit the #10-24 Machine Screw Nuts
Preparation:
Make a hole all the way through the middle of the 3" half of one of the Increaser Reducers. There should be a hole on each side.
Starting from the top of the SIMPSON Strong-Tie, make (2) 90 degree bends every 2 1/2".
Putting it Together:
Feed the black and white wires through the bigger hole of the SIMPSON Strong-Tie and and attach the lamp socket to the smallest hole closer to the shortest side on the SIMPSON Strong-Tie using one original lamp socket screw and the #8-32 Wing Nut. You will have to use a screwdriver to keep the screw down to tighten the Wing Nut by hand. Swivel the lamp socket to make sure it is centered.
*Please note that you may have to use the needle nose pliers to make the holes a little bigger to fit the screw(s) through the SIMPSON Strong-Tie*
Attach the Lamp Socket and SIMPSON Strong-Tie through the Increaser Reducer with the holes in it and adjust to the desired length. Use the 1/2" long screw and a #10-24 Machine Screw Nut to mount to the Increaser Reducer.
Repeat on the other side of the Increaser Reducer
*If you find that the socket is pointing too far upward/downward, bend the Strong Tie or simply line up correctly and make a new hole on the Increaser Reducer*
*The SIMPSON Strong-Tie is soft enough to bend in any direction to make sure that the socket is lined up and centered correctly*
Once it has been centered, cut or saw off the excess Strong-Tie and your completed Cool Tube is ready to put together.
Now you are ready to add your desired adhesive to make sure that the Increaser Reducers stay attached to your Bake-A-Round. If you need to change the bulb for any reason, you are able to remove the screws and machine nuts and remove the socket and it's housing from the tube.
Remember.... being high=high risk of breaking your Bake-A-Round
farmerfischer
Well-Known Member
Clamp on a three in 375cfm fan and you're stylin..